205 1.7d 1990 Cylinder head removal.

Shakey · Post by **Shakey** » 19 Jan 2004, 18:06

I am having trouble removing the head from a 1990 1.7 diesel 205. I have been told that there is an extra dowel pin that needs to be removed before I can lift the head. Where is it? Any clues would be great.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 20 Jan 2004, 00:48

There is a dowel in the front of the head that goes into a hole in the top engine mounting, this dowel also has a thread in it and takes one of the mountings four bolts.
If the belt covers are the early clip on type, the mounting will need to be removed before the head can be lifted off, this is beacuse of the engine front plate, if the covers are the later bolt on type, the lower bolts that go into the block need only be removed and the head can be lifted with the mounting still attached, there is no front plate on these later models.
Make provisions for removing and refitting the timing belt tensioner spring and plunger before lifting the head, if you don't you will wish you had.
Dave

Shakey · Post by **Shakey** » 20 Jan 2004, 13:37

Thanks for the info. Covers are of the clip on type, so mount will need to come off. Would explain why I can't get it to budge though!
Does the tensioner spring and plunger really need to be removed or can I construct a tool to hold the plunger back in the bore? Two pins and a bit of bent plate maybe?

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 21 Jan 2004, 00:50

Yes you could make a restraining tool for the spring but it needs to be a bit good, anything remotely heath robinson will get shoved asside, and that spring likes to come out fast when it can, problem is there are no threads in the mount to take bolts for this purpose.
Dave

Shakey · Post by **Shakey** » 26 Jan 2004, 01:36

Managed to get this done over the weekend, for info. only the upper left bolt needed to be removed from the engine mount. Also I by tightening the pivot bolt on the cambelt tensioner you can lock it off.
I NOW HAVE A PROBLEM THOUGH!!
I think I have an air lock in the fuel system somewhere! Any ideas on how to clear it? The car turns over fine, the timing is correctly set, valvesand piston bores are fine, as are the glow plugs and I definately have air going in, but it won't start! So must be a lack of fuel. I've tried to prime it using the button on the top of the filter and then started it with the throttle wide open but no luck.
Any ideas would be gratefully received!
Cheers, Andy

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 02 Feb 2004, 01:50

Hmm.... don't quite see how removing just that one bolt lets the head come off, how do you slide it off the dowel with valves sticking out, unless there isn't one on a non turbo, anyway have you got it going ok now Andy.
Dave

Shakey · Post by **Shakey** » 09 Feb 2004, 13:33

Dave, the only dowel was between the mating faces of the block and head (a large spring pin). Just the bolt from the engine mount into the head, was all that was stopping it.
Still haven't got it going yet though - had a week off from it to be honest! I definately have the timing right (all the pins go in), I definately have air going in, and the glow plugs work, there's fuel at the top of the injectors (I know because I've cracked the nuts whilst turning it over) but I still can't get it to start! I've even used some easy start, all this does is make it pop and crack for a while. Is it possible to get an air lock inside the injectors?? If so how do I get rid of it.
Any advice?

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 11 Feb 2004, 02:41

Aha that explains it, turbo heads are dowelled to the engine mounting, wonder why the n/a isn't.
No the injectors can't get air locked, they are constantly self purging, thats what the leakoff pipes are there for, to return purged fuel to the tank.
Of the fuel that goes through the pump, only a small amount gets injected into the engine, the rest goes back to the tank.
If you have good fuel up to the injector unions and the glow plugs are working ok, providing the battery is whizzing it over fast enough then it should start.
Did you actually bleed it up to the injectors, or just connect the pipes up and check for fuel at the unions when it didn't start, if so there could still be some air in the pipes which will compress, the fact that there may be fuel at the unions doesn't necesarily mean alot unless its air free and getting up to pressure.
When you crack the unions (to check for fuel at pressure) don't open them wide, just enough for fuel to get out under pressure, if nothing much gets out unless they are well open then there is air in pipes or pump.
Dave

Shakey · Post by **Shakey** » 11 Feb 2004, 12:59

Dave, What you've said about the union nuts needing to be well undone before fuel will imerge is about right, I am getting a fair spurt though, maybe a couple of inches above the injector.
Is removing the air simply a matter of continuously turning it over with a union nut cracked (repeating for all cylinders)? Or is there another method that I'm missing?
Thanks for all you help so far!
Andy

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 13 Feb 2004, 03:37

Do the lot at one go Andy, pack some rag around them first to catch the fuel, unplug the glow relay aswell, that will save the battery a bit while cranking.
When you get a good froth free spurt on all four it should start easily.
Dave