Citroen C5 MkIII (X7) Engine Died Won't Start

[RichardW]

Fuse box just plugs in, no config necessary. However, if you are not near someone with a Lexia, I would fork out the £80 or so and get one so that you can interrogate the car - changing bits at random is going to get expensive! Are you sure the cambelt is intact?

[GiveMeABreak]

Just thought I'd throw this in: had a very similar problem on my 138 Bhp Mk2 C5 Exclusive. Lost power, cut out and made a really bad sound like a rasping grating noise. It kept cutting out and I too had to bump start it several times. Limped part way home having to really Rev to keep the engine alive. Ultimately had to get it towed to my Citroen technician (who worked next to the main Citroen Dealer incidentally)!

Here's the thing, went through a lot of what has been said here with my mechanic, and was looking like DPF needed replacing and everything else, looking at over £1600 to put right! At the time, I was offered and considered having the DPF removed and the car reprogrammed for a cost of £300. (This was a few years ago and we now know this would have failed MOT etc.). Anyway, they were prepping to undertake the work when I got a call from the garage saying whilst they were dismantling, they had found a hole in the main Turbo hose! Apparently it was in a really hard to see area until they started doing the work.

They ordered up a new hose, replaced it and topped up the Eolys with a new pack and that cured the lot!
I should say that I had all the ASR/ABS warnings etc, which did nothing to help at the time. I'm not saying this will solve your problem, but thought it worth a mention. Good luck!

[Steve Buck]

Thanks guys, will take a good look at the turbo hoses if I can see them behind the engine. I changed the fuse box for a new one bought off e-bay, but car still doesn't start. When the car stopped I could only get it running by bump starting it or flooring the throttle and keeping the revs high enough to prevent the engine dying. It would run really roughly and eventually cut out again so had to repeat this process to get home again.

Bye the way the EGR valve makes a continuous high pitch (though not loud) electrical noise when the ignition is turned on. I'm not sure if this continuous noise is normal, but it only stops when the ignition is turned off for if I unplug the electrical connector from the EGR.

I'm trying to get someone to do a Lexia diagnosis for me, so I'll let you know how I get on.

If anyone needs to know how to change the fuse box I could post some simple instructions as it's relatively easy when you know how.

Bye for now

Steve

[Steve Buck]

A quick update and recap. Car died and now won't re-start - neighbours OBD diagnostic tool registered P0101 fault code which points MAF sensor, EGR or turbo hoses split or adrift. Convinced myself that fuse box was faulty as I had also had spurious ASR/ESP and low oil pressure faults before. Changed the fuse box and no difference - car still refuses to start. No obvious holes in hoses - scrabbled under the car to check main hose from turbo.

Likely suspects are now EGR or faulty MAF, although the MAF looks clean as a whistle and intact. I suspect the EGR could be stuck open as there had been some hesitation when accelerating from low speed and car cut out at similar engine speed. Also with the ignition on there is a continuous high pitched (but not very loud) noise coming from the EGR valve, which only goes off when I pull off the electrical connector or turn the ignition off. DOES ANYONE KNOW IF A CONTINUOUS ELECTRICAL NOISES FROM THE EGR IS NORMAL? Also does anyone know how difficult it is to remove the EGR from a 2.0 HDI 16V (DW10B4TED) to inspect and clean or replace it? I can see the bolts holding the valve to the water cooled heat exchanger, the bolts for the EGR pipe and two small fixing bolts through the valve body, either side of the EGR outlet, which seem to attach the valve to the rear of the engine - are there anymore underneath or perhaps out of site? I was also going to detach the EGR pipe and take a look at the inside if this and the valve but the funny clic clip and split clip which also holds the main air intake duct defeated me - any ideas as to how you remove these? I could probably remove the clic clip but the split bracket shared with the main air intake duct is a bit of a puzzle.

Thanks for any help.

[Stickyfinger]

hope it helps

[RichardW]

EGR won't stop it starting. You need proper diagnostic kit to see what it is (or isn't) seeing when the engine is being cranked to decide where to look. eg Is the cam/ crank synchronised? Does it register the engine is cranking? What does the fuel pressure do as the engine is being cranked?