GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

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Stonehopper
Posts: 342
Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 16:10
Location: Shropshire
My Cars: 1975 GS Pallas
1967 2cv AZAM
Previously;
1982 Acadiane
1990 BX TZD turbo
1982 2cv Charleston
1971 AK 250
1978 AK 400
1982 Ami 8 break
1971 Ami 8 break
1979 CX Familiale
1960 2cv AZL (Belgian built)
x 115

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by Stonehopper »

Mac wrote: "Ah no Derek. The original is being replaced. Select your cutting implement of choice and just lop it off. :twisted:"
Lopped it will be!
But for now stuffing the leaky joints will have to do as the Deuche needs a good sorting out for it's annual visit to the dentist (M.O.T.).
Derek
sandybx
Posts: 65
Joined: 22 Apr 2013, 18:40
Location: Tonbridge KENT
My Cars: Ctroen,s SAAB, s Vauxhall,s.
x 2

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by sandybx »

Dear Guys,
When replacing the exhaust front pipes :wink: it is best to remove the sump guard :)
I hope this helps :)
Vince, :wink:
1992 Citroen BX TX i 1.6 auto with air con in White with 47,000 miles.
1988 SAAB classic 900 i with 3 spoke Ronals in rose quartz with 69,000 miles.
User avatar
Stonehopper
Posts: 342
Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 16:10
Location: Shropshire
My Cars: 1975 GS Pallas
1967 2cv AZAM
Previously;
1982 Acadiane
1990 BX TZD turbo
1982 2cv Charleston
1971 AK 250
1978 AK 400
1982 Ami 8 break
1971 Ami 8 break
1979 CX Familiale
1960 2cv AZL (Belgian built)
x 115

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by Stonehopper »

Hi Vince, - Sump guard? Do you mean the front valance? Headlights, front panel then valance?

I can get at the front pipe clamps onto the manifold without removing the valance, it's the thought of how the pipes are going to be withdrawn toward the rear, and new inserted that looks like it might need a Paul Daniels trick.

Or - do the pipes somehow are wriggled forward and down past the manifold. That would need the valance removed.
Derek
sandybx
Posts: 65
Joined: 22 Apr 2013, 18:40
Location: Tonbridge KENT
My Cars: Ctroen,s SAAB, s Vauxhall,s.
x 2

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by sandybx »

Dear Derek,
That is exactly what I mean Derek :) Both headlamps both sidelights/ indicators, front grille,( both sides 1/4 bumpers for chrome bumpered GS,s ) and the landing panel where the bonnet catch is :wink:
Then you can remove the sump guard ( a really long 3/8 th drive extention and uj and an 11 mm socket will help to get the really awkward two bolts that hold the sump guard to the front subframe :) )
Undo the clamp for the right hand side front pipe at its joint and twist it from side to side to loosen off the exhaust paste/ rust first prior to undoing any of the four front pipe clamps :) :wink: .
Undoing the four clamps are relatively easy :)
Both front pipes come out from the y pipe forwards :wink:
Using a screwdriver to rotate the wire spring clips out of the way so that you can take off both of the black tin trays that slide off just behind the exhaust manifolds :) ( Originally Citroen decided in there infinate wisdom decided to fit some stupid very very thin metal retaining tabs, that helped to hold both front pipes in for ease of engine fitment :roll: These were removed with a pair of mole grips and filed under B for bin :lol: You may come across the slots in the tin ware where these were fitted :wink:
Undo all four clamps and jiggle both front pipes out frontwards to the front of the car :)
I have known some people who have resorted to removing one of the engine bolts on the right hand of the engine, to make getting the right hand side front pipe ( the one with the heater pipe attatched to it :) ) a bit easier to get it out., by using a pry bar :wink:
Use exhaust paste on all four joints fill the 1/2 collars too and reassemble :wink: it is far more esstically pleasing to see all four clamps with the bolts at 3 o clock and 9 o clock =D> after you have finished the job. :) :wink:
Timed out tonigt :oops: I hope this helps ask away :) back on tomorrow night :wink:
Vince, :wink:
Last edited by sandybx on 12 Aug 2015, 21:52, edited 4 times in total.
1992 Citroen BX TX i 1.6 auto with air con in White with 47,000 miles.
1988 SAAB classic 900 i with 3 spoke Ronals in rose quartz with 69,000 miles.
User avatar
Stonehopper
Posts: 342
Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 16:10
Location: Shropshire
My Cars: 1975 GS Pallas
1967 2cv AZAM
Previously;
1982 Acadiane
1990 BX TZD turbo
1982 2cv Charleston
1971 AK 250
1978 AK 400
1982 Ami 8 break
1971 Ami 8 break
1979 CX Familiale
1960 2cv AZL (Belgian built)
x 115

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by Stonehopper »

Brilliant - thanks Vince. I've had all that off before and so it shouldn't be an issue with seized bolts etc. - all well waxed and greased. Just need to set a time slot for it.

An aside: Citroen Car Club are celebrating 10yrs of the C6 with a display as Cosford Airfield this weekend. I might get there on the Sunday. All Citroens welcomed apparently.

ETA: http://www.rafmuseum.org.uk/cosford/wha ... ford-2015/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Derek
User avatar
Stonehopper
Posts: 342
Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 16:10
Location: Shropshire
My Cars: 1975 GS Pallas
1967 2cv AZAM
Previously;
1982 Acadiane
1990 BX TZD turbo
1982 2cv Charleston
1971 AK 250
1978 AK 400
1982 Ami 8 break
1971 Ami 8 break
1979 CX Familiale
1960 2cv AZL (Belgian built)
x 115

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by Stonehopper »

Was it that long ago?

Finally got around to replacing the front pipes and 'Y' piece, spurred on by the exhaust manifold gasket beginning to blow from one pot. This gasket was replaced with new from Chevronics last year. The remains, are more like compressed biscuit that crumbles to the touch. Exhaust gas pressure has spat a piece out, this in turn seems to have upset carburation in the lower range, though it could be something else. I've now another set of new gaskets from Chevronics which are much more like what exhaust manifold gaskets should look like.

The original front pipe on the left came out easy peasy. The right had to have the extension pipe up to the manifold heater cut off. Nothing I had would get in there, so ordered a Dremel mandrel and 38mm cutting discs. A c*ck-up from Parcel Force failing to fulfill their 24hrs delivery delayed me a day (chasing for a refund - :rofl2: !), but was able to use a flexible drive off the drill and get half way through the base of the extension pipe, all done from underneath, the rest was a bit of Yuri Geller twisting and off it came. Sod to feed out through the shrouding, but the new pipes short stub for the separate extension was NOT going to go back the same way. The solution is to slacken both front engine bolts and removing one. Then levering the engine/gearbox unit up and inch and a half, that allows the right hand pipe passage to where it needs to go. Lower the engine, replace bolts.

Now some fun. As both manifolds are off, the pipes are flapping about a bit, and getting the 'Y' piece installed and new clamps on would challenge Houdini. The new clamps (Franzose) have the bolts fixed into one half of the clamp. In theory this ought to make things easier . . in theory. In practice - I'm not so sure.

Had enough upside down and struggling, so manifolds (all nicely painted in VHT black) will go on another day - tomorrow, weather permitting.

Not only, but also:
Recent issues with problem starting (choke linkage adrift) I had checked the timing several times as a process of elimination, and got to a point where although the static and advance marks were being met at the appropriate revs., I had run out of space in the annular slots for distributor adjustment. Bearing in mind the cassette points are good, and the dwell within spec, something did not ring true, and I thought back to when I rebuilt the engine and re-fitted the timing belts. The left hand belt was fitted with the correct number of teeth between the top of the crankshaft pinion and the camshaft pinion/gearwheel. But the exact position of the engraved marker slot in the gearwheel periphery was not quite bang on centre, making a decision to go half a notch one way or half a notch the other. Remember - the number of teeth of the belt from centre point at top of crankshaft pinion to the top of the camshaft gearwheel is supposed to be 33 teeth (all G12 engines). But due to the engraved slot in the camshaft lining up with the valley between belt teeth, makes a choice between 32 and a half teeth - or 33 and a half teeth - and the engraved slot in either case is near as dammit at the top. I have moved the belt a tooth along. This returns the adjustment for the dizzy to have a more equal amount of adjustment from retard to advance. Not something I'd really noticed at last years rebuild, but the recent faffing about with starting made me think harder. This slight change in valve timing for the left hand side shouldn't make any difference to the engine, though I'll be listening out.

And another thing . . . G Section Facebook. Is there any point? Finally got "approval" for joining (only took three weeks), but lots of pictures - and precious little technical comments. Pictures are good - but they need detailed explanations of what where and how! And all this "liking" business - like what? Why?

Old Git signing off.
Derek
User avatar
Stonehopper
Posts: 342
Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 16:10
Location: Shropshire
My Cars: 1975 GS Pallas
1967 2cv AZAM
Previously;
1982 Acadiane
1990 BX TZD turbo
1982 2cv Charleston
1971 AK 250
1978 AK 400
1982 Ami 8 break
1971 Ami 8 break
1979 CX Familiale
1960 2cv AZL (Belgian built)
x 115

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by Stonehopper »

All back together. Those Fransoze front pipes are good, but do need some gentle work to make the joints fit easily - just the right hand side with the two piece arrangement in place of the welded one piece. Just a bit of file work to get the female over the male. I 'dead reckoned' the dizzy after moving the camshaft on a tooth. It started fine and runs sweet now, but will get the xenon on it later to check timing.

Glad that's done. Hate crawling about underneath.
Derek
macplaxton
Posts: 168
Joined: 08 Jun 2011, 18:09
Location: Ireland
My Cars: 1978 GS X2

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by macplaxton »

Macplaxton "likes" the last two posts! :D :D :D

(Gave up on Facebook a good few years ago now.)

Thanks for the latest updates on fitting the pipes, a job I'll be putting off for a while yet as I've other projects that have climbed up the priority list. Hopefully I will be able to re-focus on the car sooner rather than later.
sandybx
Posts: 65
Joined: 22 Apr 2013, 18:40
Location: Tonbridge KENT
My Cars: Ctroen,s SAAB, s Vauxhall,s.
x 2

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by sandybx »

Dear Derek
Well done indeed Derek =D> =D> a time consuming job but well worth the effort and a satisfying one too :wink:
Well done too on spotting the cam timing ( counting cam teeth is a bit of a ball ache ) you lose count quite a lot :roll:
Like Mac, I don,t go on Facebook
Glad the car is all back together again now and running properly too Derek =D> =D> :) :wink:
Vince :wink:
1992 Citroen BX TX i 1.6 auto with air con in White with 47,000 miles.
1988 SAAB classic 900 i with 3 spoke Ronals in rose quartz with 69,000 miles.
User avatar
Stonehopper
Posts: 342
Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 16:10
Location: Shropshire
My Cars: 1975 GS Pallas
1967 2cv AZAM
Previously;
1982 Acadiane
1990 BX TZD turbo
1982 2cv Charleston
1971 AK 250
1978 AK 400
1982 Ami 8 break
1971 Ami 8 break
1979 CX Familiale
1960 2cv AZL (Belgian built)
x 115

Re: GS 4 speed, exhaust Y-piece

Post by Stonehopper »

Thanks both. Checked the timing with the Xenon and it was only a couple of degrees out. Certainly runs a lot sweeter especially in the low range. Such a nice car to drive - popping out to the shops just a mile away generally ends up with 15 or 20 miles on the clock.

Popped a new set of pads in the front brakes too. Had a leakage a while back and one set of pads got contaminated. They still pulled up OK, but with a tendency to pull to the right, so that's another job job'd.

Faceache - kiddies picture book! Could be so much more.
Derek
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