Was it that long ago?
Finally got around to replacing the front pipes and 'Y' piece, spurred on by the exhaust manifold gasket beginning to blow from one pot. This gasket was replaced with new from Chevronics last year. The remains, are more like compressed biscuit that crumbles to the touch. Exhaust gas pressure has spat a piece out, this in turn seems to have upset carburation in the lower range, though it could be something else. I've now another set of new gaskets from Chevronics which are much more like what exhaust manifold gaskets should look like.
The original front pipe on the left came out easy peasy. The right had to have the extension pipe up to the manifold heater cut off. Nothing I had would get in there, so ordered a Dremel mandrel and 38mm cutting discs. A c*ck-up from Parcel Force failing to fulfill their 24hrs delivery delayed me a day (chasing for a refund -
!), but was able to use a flexible drive off the drill and get half way through the base of the extension pipe, all done from underneath, the rest was a bit of Yuri Geller twisting and off it came. Sod to feed out through the shrouding, but the new pipes short stub for the separate extension was NOT going to go back the same way. The solution is to slacken both front engine bolts and removing one. Then levering the engine/gearbox unit up and inch and a half, that allows the right hand pipe passage to where it needs to go. Lower the engine, replace bolts.
Now some fun. As both manifolds are off, the pipes are flapping about a bit, and getting the 'Y' piece installed and new clamps on would challenge Houdini. The new clamps (Franzose) have the bolts fixed into one half of the clamp. In theory this ought to make things easier . . in theory. In practice - I'm not so sure.
Had enough upside down and struggling, so manifolds (all nicely painted in VHT black) will go on another day - tomorrow, weather permitting.
Not only, but also:
Recent issues with problem starting (choke linkage adrift) I had checked the timing several times as a process of elimination, and got to a point where although the static and advance marks were being met at the appropriate revs., I had run out of space in the annular slots for distributor adjustment. Bearing in mind the cassette points are good, and the dwell within spec, something did not ring true, and I thought back to when I rebuilt the engine and re-fitted the timing belts. The left hand belt was fitted with the correct number of teeth between the top of the crankshaft pinion and the camshaft pinion/gearwheel. But the exact position of the engraved marker slot in the gearwheel periphery was not quite bang on centre, making a decision to go half a notch one way or half a notch the other. Remember - the number of teeth of the belt from centre point at top of crankshaft pinion to the top of the camshaft gearwheel is supposed to be 33 teeth (all G12 engines). But due to the engraved slot in the camshaft lining up with the valley between belt teeth, makes a choice between 32 and a half teeth - or 33 and a half teeth - and the engraved slot in either case is near as dammit at the top. I have moved the belt a tooth along. This returns the adjustment for the dizzy to have a more equal amount of adjustment from retard to advance. Not something I'd really noticed at last years rebuild, but the recent faffing about with starting made me think harder. This slight change in valve timing for the left hand side shouldn't make any difference to the engine, though I'll be listening out.
And another thing . . . G Section Facebook. Is there any point? Finally got "approval" for joining (only took three weeks), but lots of pictures - and precious little technical comments. Pictures are good - but they need detailed explanations of what where and how! And all this "liking" business - like what? Why?
Old Git signing off.