@ Jodyone........will do...I will avoid the cutting disk then
@ RW.............Ok on the grease, will do, cannot really see how it would be compressed in there but I will be a little less generous.
Did it on the car, caliper off, disk off (needed the puller as no copper slip behind it !..(gj again Hartwells) Lower thru bolt out, popped the steering arm ball joint (hammer) and (gently) pulled it forward.
The two large bearing bolts were rounded off so welded an old socket to them and used a long bar. Bearing dropped off (surprise surprise) and I dremmeled a slot and tapped the race off the spigot.
Then it rained and I had a cider....hic
Clean up the spigot in the morning and refit.....with new bolts, I am glad I said to the parts man....ahhh yeh OK then, its good practice so throw in a set of bolts ...thats carma man !
Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
Alasdair
Activa, the Moose Rider
3x C5x7 Steering racks and counting
Activa, the Moose Rider
3x C5x7 Steering racks and counting
Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
Maybe for grease a high temp waterproof type, like for trailer wheel bearings. Then a smear of Red rubber or silicon type grease over that rubber seal?
Just a few thoughts.
It's crying out for an old fashioned grease nipple. Job wil be a good un Sticky.......very satisfying to replace to a much better standard than previous.
Just a few thoughts.
It's crying out for an old fashioned grease nipple. Job wil be a good un Sticky.......very satisfying to replace to a much better standard than previous.
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- Stickyfinger
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
ummmmm nipples....umm grease
OK, all done and good.....
What happens behind a disk without protection....another basic missed by Hartwells "Technicians"...(don't MacDonalds' call their hamburger cookers Technicians ?)
Angle grinder with a brush got rid.....etch zinc primer and copper slip on hub surfaces and the disk should make it easy when I have to change the disks
I had to use a disk puller in the end, the caliper mount trick with two bolts did not work....borrowed my next door's Land Rover one ...BIG it was
Cleaning up, all was bright and clean in the end, used a small cup brush on the Air Drill.
Again.....thanks all for the help
OK, all done and good.....
What happens behind a disk without protection....another basic missed by Hartwells "Technicians"...(don't MacDonalds' call their hamburger cookers Technicians ?)
Angle grinder with a brush got rid.....etch zinc primer and copper slip on hub surfaces and the disk should make it easy when I have to change the disks
I had to use a disk puller in the end, the caliper mount trick with two bolts did not work....borrowed my next door's Land Rover one ...BIG it was
Cleaning up, all was bright and clean in the end, used a small cup brush on the Air Drill.
Again.....thanks all for the help
Alasdair
Activa, the Moose Rider
3x C5x7 Steering racks and counting
Activa, the Moose Rider
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
Nice one, looks like a job well done!
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
I even have dark silver calipers, dust guards and hub. Quick wipe with thinners to clean the inner wheel....all very pretty.
Other side should be a doddle now when it fails....which it will soon.
Other side should be a doddle now when it fails....which it will soon.
Alasdair
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
I doubt many garages use copa slip on discs.... to get front ones off is easy! Remove the screws, then start the engine, engage 2nd, clutch up, and lean on the brakes. It will let go with a satisfying bang Best to have both sides jacked up so it doesn't try and run away. If you need to get the other side off as well, then after the first side has let go stick a couple of wheel bolts in it to hold the disk, and then the other side will go.
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
1st method.....not a hope in Hades RW ...both sides method, please make me Jewish with a spoon before thatRichardW wrote:I doubt many garages use copa slip on discs.... to get front ones off is easy! Remove the screws, then start the engine, engage 2nd, clutch up, and lean on the brakes. It will let go with a satisfying bang Best to have both sides jacked up so it doesn't try and run away. If you need to get the other side off as well, then after the first side has let go stick a couple of wheel bolts in it to hold the disk, and then the other side will go.
Tried the bolts thru the caliper mounts as well,,,,na it felt like it was getting to tight...just felt wrong in my fingers (remember I am bolting cast iron together all day so I have a good feel for a nut )
so a short 2.min jog up the road to borrow a puller (LandRover mud plugger type, V8 ShrtWheel thing/rear cooling...near vertical FUN !) came off easy with that thing.
It was well and good on there and I was very surprised by it. Rreally, I have had less of a problem with 40 year old disks/hubs I got at a local Auto fair.
Alasdair
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Re: Can you talk me thru a lower front joint replacement
To update this thread, a related discussion can be found here:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 44#p467844
Main point to note is that the 407, C5 and C6 have always been factory fitted with the special SKF self-aligning 'CARB' bearing, with only cheap (and unsuitable) after-market parts using a standard ball or roller bearing. Here is SKF's technical sheet on these bearings:
http://www.skf.com/binary/68-125948/6102_I_EN.pdf
The main modification that has been done with these joints is the addition of a separate stainless-steel insert to the hub, so giving the lips of the seal of the bearing a smooth surface to run against. As far as I have been able to ascertain only the first 407 and C6 models (up to around 2007) used a hub without the insert, with the 'X7' C5 benefiting from this modification from the off.
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 44#p467844
Main point to note is that the 407, C5 and C6 have always been factory fitted with the special SKF self-aligning 'CARB' bearing, with only cheap (and unsuitable) after-market parts using a standard ball or roller bearing. Here is SKF's technical sheet on these bearings:
http://www.skf.com/binary/68-125948/6102_I_EN.pdf
The main modification that has been done with these joints is the addition of a separate stainless-steel insert to the hub, so giving the lips of the seal of the bearing a smooth surface to run against. As far as I have been able to ascertain only the first 407 and C6 models (up to around 2007) used a hub without the insert, with the 'X7' C5 benefiting from this modification from the off.