Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Tell us your ongoing tales and experiences with your French car here. Post pictures of your car here as well.
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Yesterday afternoon I had intended to give the Trabant at least a first pass exterior clean as she'll be attending a show tomorrow. Not going into full valet mode, I just wanted to get rid of all the moss and some of the ingrained grime that's clearly been there for years.

However I then ended up wasting far nearer two hours than I should have trying to get this thing started.

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Which actually turned out to be completely innocent. The fuel in the can I bought around the end of September had simply ceased to be in any way flammable. With fresh fuel (not from the run down Total garage that's just round the corner from us this time) added, it fired up first pull. I know that modern fuel tends to go off relatively quickly, and I know that the shed this can had been stored in does get quite toasty when it's sunny, but it was a surprise for this to have gone off to the point that it wouldn't even try to run an engine so quickly. Lesson learned I guess.

Before I went after the car with the pressure washer today I decided to (in the middle of a downpour or course) change the door seals first. Figured as I had these on hand I may as well at least do something to minimise the amount of water to end up in the cabin.

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New seals in place on the car - not that you'd really spot any difference looking at them from a distance.

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The only thing to really watch out for if you've not done this before is that there's a single rivet holding the original onto the frame.

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That obviously needs to be removed before the old seal can be pulled off. Ideally the aluminium kick plates also want to be removed too - however the screws holding the driver's side one in are sufficiently rusted that the only tool that will be removing those is the grinder. The passenger side one has actually corroded away to next to nothing due to the carpets being so damp for so long. So I'll probably look to get a new pair ordered at some point and replace the originals using stainless steel fasteners. I want to get the floor etc thoroughly rust proofed at some point so they'll definitely need to come off for that.

The old seals were a lip type design rather than the tube type which went on today, and had all but turned to solid plastic by this point. There was virtually no give to them whatsoever and you could see daylight around both of them in several places, like here where there used to be about a 1/8" gap.

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I do have all new window channels for in the door as well, those will be replaced in due course.

The seal is now snugly up against the door and is far more likely to be doing something useful. You can really feel the difference when you close the door now as they close with more of a thump rather than rattly click. Not expecting them to be exactly hermetically sealed or anything, but this will definitely have improved their performance over the very aged stock seals.

Took a total of about 30 minutes to do both sides, about as simple a job as it gets.

So back to it with the (now working) pressure washer. Target being the well and truly ingrained dirt and moss that was in basically every single nook and cranny on the car.

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I hadn't realised quite how much was just adhering to the surfaces in general until I hit the first one with the spray from the lance.

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As can be seen on about the lower 1/4 of the above photo, the car immediately became several shades lighter.

We did lose some paint in a few areas but I was fully expecting that and have already got doing some touch ups on the to do list - the paint on the car as a whole to be honest is really rough so it really wasn't a concern.

Here's the top of the passenger door now with a lot less moss present.

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Being a little scruffy I don't mind so much. However looking neglected I'm not willing to put up with...and having it's own ecosystem forming tends to suggest the latter more than the former!

I literally just blasted the worst off of it, no detergent was used, and I didn't go as far as doing a wash as the heavens had opened again by this point.

Not clean by any stretch of the imagination, but a lot better.

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You can't tell from the photos, but there was probably a couple of kilos or so of mud blasted out from each of the wheel arches as well.

I did encounter a problem when I went to set out to go on a little drive to dry the engine bay off - I was suddenly missing wipers and indicators. Turned out to be a blown fuse.

The cause once again turned out to be because of chopped live wires that had just been abandoned in place - from the fuel consumption monitor in this case. This is becoming something of a recurring theme on this car. Despite there being female, insulated connectors on the wires about an inch from where they'd been chopped, the wires had just been cut and left floating around on the inner wing. The tails were removed from the connectors and have now been tucked safely out of harm's way.

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As far as the car actually caring that I'd gone over things in the engine bay with a pressure washer was concerned, it didn't care in the slightest. Which was exactly what I expected. If the ignition components are in good condition, there's no reason a car should care about this being done. Worst you're likely to need to do is to dry off the inside of the distributor cap (where applicable) if it's a design which can allow water ingress.

Obviously a bunch more water also found it's way into the car during this procedure so the carpets are even wetter again as there's definitely a lot of leakage around the windscreen. This really needed to be done though, and hopefully the rain might actually stop for more than 30 seconds somewhere in the next 5 months so I can get it properly dried out!

Hopefully if anyone is along to the New Year's Day Stoney Stratford classic car show tomorrow they might see this little thing on show for the first time (and I suspect far from the last time) in my ownership.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by bobins »

Zelandeth wrote: 31 Dec 2023, 21:37
However I then ended up wasting far nearer two hours than I should have trying to get this thing started.

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Which actually turned out to be completely innocent. The fuel in the can I bought around the end of September had simply ceased to be in any way flammable. With fresh fuel (not from the run down Total garage that's just round the corner from us this time) added, it fired up first pull. I know that modern fuel tends to go off relatively quickly, and I know that the shed this can had been stored in does get quite toasty when it's sunny, but it was a surprise for this to have gone off to the point that it wouldn't even try to run an engine so quickly. Lesson learned I guess.

I run a lot of varied single cylinder engines on different implements and the fuel can occasionally be 'suspect' direct from the pump. I can use a gerry can a week of either BP or Esso super unleaded (wouldn't touch ordinary unleaded for single cylinder carb things) from here in town and once every 12-18 months I'll get a bad batch where things will really struggle - day and night stuff. A fresh gerry can of super unleaded and the problem goes away. The vast majority of the public would never be aware of the issue as fuel injected engines happily cope with it, but older single cylinder carb'd kit can sometimes struggle.

You are probably wayy ahead of it here, Zel, but turn the engine off by turning the fuel off and letting the carb run dry, and also try and minimize how much fuel you keep in the implememnt's tank so you need to top it up with fresh each time and then turn the fuel tap on to run fresh(er) fuel into the carb before you go to start it up. Been there - done that :)
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by CitroJim »

Enjoy the show today Zel... Sorry that other commitments will keep me away from this one..
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Sorry for the lack of my usual updates over the last few days. Firstly there's not been a massive amount going on. The weather being so miserable (seriously, why don't we just rename English winter "the rainy season" as it would be so much more descriptive) has obviously put a damper on doing much outside.

Plus it's been an...odd...I guess you could call the last week or so, and it's messed with my ability to portion time and resources properly as I've been playing catch up a bit. That's all massively off topic for this forum though. Think I may have connected a few dots though to help try to schedule for some of the periodic times I run into brain fog and energy level issues. If my theory is right I'll likely be looking at another crash somewhere around the last week of the month. That however is just a theory.

The utterly soggy weather however has allowed me to further survey the water ingress issues with the Trabant.

The door seals have definitely made a huge difference. There used to always be water visibly running in around them and pooling in the front corner.

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There's still a bit dripping off the actual door card on the passenger door, but I think the seal itself is doing its job. The window rubbers are absolutely shot on that door so I suspect there's an excessive amount of water getting into the door as the wiper seal basically isn't doing anything useful.

The vast majority of the water though seems to be coming from here, up above the wheel arch on the passenger side.

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The run marks on the arch cover suggest this isn't a new situation.

I'm going to need to stand on my head to see if I can get a better handle on the actual source. Windscreen seal is probably still my favourite but I'm not 100% certain.

Pulling the fuel tank to make sure there's not large chunks of the bulkhead missing properly wouldn't be the worst idea though.

Looking at the weather forecast it might be a while before I actually get the car dry again though.

I did manage to get the Rover up and running for half an hour or so this afternoon (started first touch) to get everything warmed through. Proof of concept that the planned re-engineered fuel return should do what we need it to anyway, even though it was just dumped on the ground routed from one end of the car to the other as it wasn't moving today. Usually at idle with the bonnet closed it'd usually have been hearing the pump trying to pump vapour and seen a lot of bubbles through the filter by this time so it's definitely improved things. The big question will be whether I need to add a restriction to provide enough flow to the carbs to keep the bowls full under full acceleration, that will need to wait for a road test though.

At the NYD show over at Stoney Stratford I managed to again forget to take any proper photos of my own car. I have a history of doing that!

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Biggest issue really is that the show has just become so popular. It was absolutely rammed, to the point that even walking around was a challenge, never mind trying to get any half decent photos or actually talk to any owners for more than 3.8 seconds. Those photos were both taken early in the day when it was still relatively quiet.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by xantia_v6 »

I think that your Rover should have a relief valve like this:
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This one came from a carburettorred V12 Jag, but I think that it came from the BL parts bin.

I think that there is a ball and spring inside, maybe opening at 2psi, but I don't see any markings on it.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by CitroJim »

Zelandeth wrote: 04 Jan 2024, 02:05 The weather being so miserable (seriously, why don't we just rename English winter "the rainy season" as it would be so much more descriptive) has obviously put a damper on doing much outside.
What miserable weather? It's been bloody lovely for the time of year...
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

CitroJim wrote: 04 Jan 2024, 06:30 What miserable weather? It's been bloody lovely for the time of year...
I guess a lot of it is just down to what you're used to! My brain still expects winter to generally be colder, windier but generally dry unless it's spending a whole day or two just raining, before then turning cold and clear again. I know that Scotland has a lot of microclimate nonsense going on because of all the hills, but our corner generally never felt quite so endlessly soggy as things here seem to at this time of year.

-- -- --

I really need to pull the carpets back out of the Trabant to get them dried out again - though at least the sponge-like underlays are still folded up under the sofa in our spare room. There has been a little bit of an accumulation of water in the car again over the last few days. Can't say I'm all that surprised based on how wet I got walking the dogs yesterday!

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About the best thing you can do when you've got an issue like this and you can't immediately sort the leak or put the car under covered storage while actively drying the interior is to ensure that any water that does get in can get out again rather than staying trapped in the car. Which is a bit tricky on the Trabant as there are no rubber bungs or anything you can easily just pop out in the floor pan. Solution? Drill a hole at what's the lowest point when parked facing up hill.

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Ideally I'd like to stick the dehumidifier in there again, but there's little point until the weather warms up a bit as it won't do anything useful if the cabin is much below 10C. I did have a look around today but none of the units stocked by Toolstation or Screwfix seem to be desiccant based, they're all heat pump units. Need to have a shop around online.

The issue with the offside front indicator acting up has reappeared and investigation has shown the likely issue to be water ingress into the fixture. The seals are absolutely wrecked, as is the rubber boot that surrounds the whole unit at the rear and the contacts have basically rusted away to next to nothing. I do have both of the original indicator lenses from the car (someone has fitted an earlier type at some point), and one original fitting...however am missing the other. I also don't have a single boot to go on the back of them that's not perished away to nothing. A pair of new units including all of the bits is about £35, so in the interests of saving future frustration I've just ordered a set. Given the cost of shipping it doesn't make sense to put an order in to Trabantwelt less than £120 or so I reckon, so topped that up with a replacement for the cracked backing plate for the nearside tail light and the complete fuel gauge kit. I can see me using this car quite a bit so feel that's a nice quality-of-life improvement that's just worth having. I do appreciate the approach to minimalist motoring, but that to me is maybe one step TOO far towards minimalist!
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Carpets were removed again a day or two ago, and today I went after the rear cabin floor with a screwdriver and the vacuum cleaner to scrape off and get rid of at least a decent chunk of the flaky paint/rust/sealant.

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Will probably still go at it with a knot wheel on the grinder or at least manually with a wire brush before I drown it in Vactan. While I'm sure the metal has been thinned in places it still seems perfectly solid.

It's hard to see in the photos, but someone has bent the floorpan on the passenger side upwards at some point in the past, presumably by jacking the car in the wrong place.

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I'll have a shot at seeing if I can convince that to straighten out again before the carpets and such go back in. Doesn't need to be perfect, but is quite impressively bowed up at the moment.

One of the new headlights is in.

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Well, sort of. Turns out I do need to replace the H4 lamp holder as well as the factory one won't allow the rubber weather proofing boot to fit in place. It also really doesn't hold the lamp very well. Will get a pair of lamp holders in then get the other side changed too.

On the plus side, I can now confirm that if your car is late enough to come with H4 headlights from the factory that the commonly available generic 7" units will just drop in. I do NOT think this is true for the earlier cars using the R2 lamps, as I think the tabs on their headlight bowls are positioned slightly differently so the unit would be clocked wrong.

Our electrical gremlin is still in residence and I have a sneaking feeling is going to need me to have a proper dig around behind the dash.

We have a couple of issues.

The two which I think are related to each other are that the nearside indicator flash rate is somewhat erratic, and there is a back feed from that circuit into the sidelight circuit. The right hand front indicator is quite a bit dimmer than the left. I'm certain that these are both just down to a dodgy ground. I'll re-terminate those both when I swap the remaining headlight. It looks like the headlight bowl is used as a star point for grounding a few circuits, and the ones in the nearside one were quite crusty.

Fuse number 7 (2nd from right in the fuse box) blows after 5-10 minutes, when it feels like it. I'm not sure if it's happening more often when indicating, or just that I'm *noticing* it when indicating as that's one of the circuits it takes out. Which includes basically everything ignition switched aside from the engine itself.

It would be helpful to know what fuse ratings should actually be in each slot in the fuse box, as neither variant of the handbook I've found, nor in fact the repair manual I've seen actually list them! Not entirely helpful. As if it's meant to be a 16A fuse having the 8A one that's in there blowing wouldn't be particularly surprising.

The dip/main beam changeover relay doesn't work. Though the flash function still works, so the contact in the stalk must work.

I have found quite a lot of random wires floating around already, either just flapping in the breeze or at best taped up, so I think a proper rummage around under the dash to track down any remaining spaghetti and ensuring it's removed, reinstated where it should be or safely terminated is the next step there. I can't see anything that looks out of place under the bonnet or in the boot which would explain a short so I think a decent visual inspection under the dash is a good starting point.

A wiring diagram for this era of the P601 would be useful to help identify any random wiring, and is something which has so far has eluded me. I do now have an earlier version at least which is a thousand times better than flying blind at least. The wiring colours at least generally didn't change much over the years.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by CitroJim »

Good work Zel :D I like that car, it has just the right amount of issues to keep you well involved, occupied and interested.

Soon, it'll be good. I think I'd be very tempted to fully rewire the thing. Sounds like the electrical system has been well got-at by well-intentioned but perhaps not well skilled individuals in the past...

If you do, at least you'll be able to produce an accurate wiring diagram!
Jim

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

I could do with those issues not being things which render the car undriveable, such as a lack of working indicators, but it's all a good learning opportunity.

You can buy a whole new loom off-the-shelf from Trabantwelt, but it is €379. To be honest the wiring issues I've seen so far haven't really required much brain power to figure out and have been pretty localised. The wiring itself seems to be of decent quality as well so I'm not inclined to go disturbing things I don't need to.

The odd crusty earth and the like is just standard old car stuff - especially on one which has obviously not been in particularly regular use like this for a long while.

A lot of the dangling wiring under the dash stemmed from an attempt at installing a stereo, and the removal of the fuel consumption gauge. Neither of these things are being reinstated, so I can just delete the remaining spaghetti from both of those.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by CitroJim »

Ahh, that's not so bad then :) I was fearing the loom would be more like an old Citroen one and so brittle just looking at wires will snap them!

In that case, just make good ;)
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Has to be said that electrical pruning in an older car can often be quite satisfying. This is what was evicted from under the dash of the Trabant this morning.

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Including quality workmanship such as this discarded wiring tail that was just sitting on the dash support rail above the fuse box...note that this is the UNFUSED side of the fuse box...

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Given we started with I think five complete mystery wires, I think having got it down to needing to confirm that a couple of grounds do actually still connect to anything and trace one isn't bad going for an hour or so of work.

A few matters did need a little application of brain power and standing on my head. It's actually not bad in this car to be honest, as the dash top is easily removed, and laying horizontally across the driver and passenger seats gets you reasonably comfortable access to *most* of the stuff under the dash.

One was this grey/black one which is part of the ignition switch loom.

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Which a little bit of detective work found to be the feed to fuse number 5.

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Makes sense where the wire is sitting. According to the wiring diagram I have that wire should be connected to terminal 30A on the ignition switch though, which is closed to the battery feed (terminal 30) only when the key is in the P position.

There was also a two core white and black wire floating around connected into the indicator switch which according to the diagram should go to the headlight switch - which is what would enable the parking lights when you turned the light switch on with the indicators set to signal left. However that's clearly been hacked about as it was nowhere near long enough to reach the switch. For now I've removed that as it's not functionality I need, noted it and can reinstate it later.

To the right of the dash we were left with two dangling wires (the Wago terminals were stuck on the end of most things I'd seen floating around a week or two back to ensure they were safely isolated).

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A black and red wire was traced to a terminal on the wiper motor. Which looks like it should actually be on terminal 54 on the wiper delay switch according to the wiring diagram I have. Whatever it's meant to be doing, the wipers currently work just fine (including both intermittent delay periods) - though I can reroute that to the right location in due course. That leaves a single brown (ground) wire on the right hand side of the dash - I just need to try to figure out what's on the opposite end of that to find out if that it's meant to be grounding actually exists. Wouldn't surprise me if that turned out to be our missing ground that was causing the back feed between the headlight/indicator circuits as it *looks* like the wire is heading off in that general direction.

The remaining three I was interested in today were wrapped up in duct tape on the left of the steering column.

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The grey/green wire is part of the dash lighting circuit and simply seems to be unused. The brown/white one appears to disappear into the loom running into the right hand headlight - further investigation needed there to figure out what it's story is given that all three filaments in that headlight do currently work. The thought which does spring to mind is that some H4 headlight equipped cars had an indicator light on the dash to show if the headlights were adjusted to the fully laden height adjustment (there's a lever underneath the light unit to switch between high/low beam height), which this car doesn't have the light for on the dash. As my wiring diagram is for an older model that circuit isn't shown. This leaves one remaining mystery wire which is the heavy one towards centre frame. I can't quite decide if that's a solid brown or solid grey...it's a kind of unhelpfully vague browny-grey. My gut feeling is that it's actually brown as neither of the variants of the wiring diagrams I've seen show solid grey as being used. So is most likely another ground that's been left floating. Shouldn't take long to confirm that with the meter.

I think I've found out why the dip/main beam toggle relay isn't working.

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Hmm...Yes, the entire upper half of the relay and its cover being completely missing would definitely do it. A replacement has been ordered.

That's where I left it today though as I'd reached the point where I had completely lost feeling in my fingers. Will pick it up when I next get a spare 30 minutes or so. Annoyingly, this has (unsurprisingly) not resolved our fuse popping issue. Suspect that's going to be a bit more time consuming to track down. My gut feeling is that it's somewhere on the indicator circuit though based on when the fuse blows.


The day wasn't done with me though it seemed. While I was out a little later on I had to brake very enthusiastically when an idiot in an Audi decided to cut in in front of me with about 6" to spare while we were braking down for a roundabout. As I did this there was an absolutely almighty metallic screeching noise from the offside front wheel of the Peugeot. This continued after I let of the brakes as a lighter squeaking for a short time, and was definitely affected by steering input - as I was near to the garage I usually use for tyres etc these days I diverted to there. This noise was LOUD, far more so than I'd generally expect from just a bit of grit trapped in a caliper or something like that. I wanted to be sure I didn't have a wheel bearing starting to come apart, a caliper that had managed to unbolt itself or something else unpleasant like that going on.

They were good enough as to get it straight up on the lift to take a look (this was well gone 1600 by then and they're pretty busy as always so I really appreciated them finding five mins to fit me in). We couldn't find any smoking gun for what made the noise, best guess is a bit of grit or something having chosen that moment to get dragged into things. The grub screws which should secure the disc to the hub are missing on the offside, though on a car of this age that doesn't really surprise me - it's not like it can go anywhere once the wheel bolts are in anyway. That might explain the very slight brake judder I've always had on this though.

However one problem did present itself when they went to remove the nearside front wheel.

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Head sheared straight off one of the wheel bolts pretty much as soon as they touched it. It's clear that it's only been hanging on by a tiny, tiny bit of metal for quite a while...though this is a pain as it means that the remainder of that bolt is now still in the hub. They did try to get it to move with a punch now there's no tension on it, but it's having none of it.

I am emphatically NOT getting dragged into fighting with trying to remove that myself with my equipment. Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt, and wrecked a hub trying to do it. No thanks, not doing that again.

So it's been booked back in there to be sorted out. Unfortunately that can't be accommodated until a week on Thursday...and the car's needed for a business trip to Telford THIS Thursday. Guess I'm renting a car for Abby then, as I certainly don't trust the Rover a tenth of that far yet, the Trabant currently has no indicators and only one headlight (plus I think I'd get murdered for suggesting she use it - likewise the Invacar), and the Renault hasn't been touched since a good couple of months ago and is nowhere near currently roadworthy. Suffice to say, I'm not even suggesting she makes the trip in the knowledge that there's a wheel bolt missing - and the whole set is getting replaced anyway now as a precaution in case that failure is due to them having been over-torqued in the past.

Ah, this is going to be one of THOSE weeks is it...
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

So...where were we? Oh yes, I was making a horrendous mess.

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It feels like it's been a reasonably productive afternoon at least.

While digging around today I did discover some "quality bodywork repair" on the bulkhead. It's hidden from outside behind the battery but was visible from inside once I'd removed the fuse box from its bracket.

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I'll need to pull the battery in due course and get a better look at that from the other side. I don't *think * it's within a prescribed area (N/S steering rack mount would be the biggest worry I'd think), but obviously wants properly fixing either way. I'm assuming there's a hole that's been splodged over with sealant or filler on the other side of that mesh anyway.

Probably the largest single time sink today was spent going over basically every millimetre of the offside indicator wiring that I could access with a microscope (okay, not literally but you get the idea). Shortly after starting to trace that I had to get up close and personal with the wiper motor, especially as the wiring had all come adrift of the clips which should keep it clear of the linkage (so it was a prime suspect area for my short - no dice there sadly as that would have been too easy). This meant that it became really obvious to me why I had miles and miles of play in the wiper linkage and was missing about 1/4 a screen worth of wiper sweep. Take a look at the photo below of where the linkage attaches to the motor and see if you can spot anything amiss.

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The 1/4" or so void which clearly should contain a bush of some description seems like a likely candidate...not to mention all of the mounting bolts holding the whole thing to the bulkhead being less than finger tight.

Helpfully the box of random Trabant bits did contain a little bag of assorted bits of wiper mechanism, which very quickly allowed me to find exactly what I appeared to be missing.

Motor arm off the car is on the right, one out of the spares box is on the left.

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With that arm fitted, a spring washer to keep things together and the original locking washer (which was precisely as fiddly to refit through that gap in the heater ducting as I expected it to be) there is now a vastly, vastly reduced amount of play in the linkage and it's nearly silent rather than clanking loudly every time the wipers change direction. I'll fine tune the wiper position on the screen somewhere down the road. Apparently I failed to take a photo of the reassembled contraption so you'll just need to take my word for it that it did go back together.

The two mystery wires I was left with yesterday were identified with a bit of meter probing. The one which I thought was a solid brown wire to the left of the steering column on closer inspection actually turned out to be a brown and white wire.

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Which as far as I can tell is a wiring colour that was only used for the headlight beam height adjustment warning light. I do now have a wiring diagram for a later car, and that's the only circuit on which brown/white appears.

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Which is indeed where we have continuity to. Why it's a far heavier gauge wire than the other one I've no idea. Anyway, it's now just been safely terminated and zip tied well out of the way. The other one was confirmed to actually be a simple ground (I do confess to not being 100% certain to WHAT it is supposed to be a ground as I can't see where the wire goes once it vanishes into the loom), but at least the wiring colours are consistent so it's just been tied to ground using a bolt into the dash support. I suspect it may have been something to do with the economy meter wiring. I may spend a bit of time trying to more thoroughly research that one at a later date as I would like to know where the other end is, but that's a job for when it's not 1C outside.

Picking back up the job of tracking down likely sources for the intermittent short I was seeing on the offside indicator circuit was next up (having initially been sidetracked by the wiper linkage). I spent quite a long time on this. The wiring all looked to be in good condition. I couldn't find any traces of chafing or anything anywhere which would likely result in a short. Inspecting the tail lights was quite a surprise...and I think shows another big difference to Lada etc where the tail light innards are about the cheapest things imaginable and are generally an endless source of frustration by this source of age. The reflectors here could do with a clean and the brake light bulb could probably do with changing as it's a bit blackened, but otherwise this looks absolutely fine. No reason to expect it to cause problems otherwise given how solidly built it is. Aside from the spacers to separate the positive/ground conductors, everything in here is metal.

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I basically spent about an hour and a half poking and prodding things with the meter, wiggling wires, connecting and disconnecting things to see if I could pin down where the short was. I never really did find a smoking gun, but after I disconnected the front indicator light assembly the short disappeared and I wasn't able to provoke it into returning. That's the light which I was already suspicious of as it was badly corroded internally. My decision to swap it out was then accelerated by the positive connection breaking off when I attempted to reconnect it. I guess if the tab had bent inwards prior to it actually snapping off that could have been causing a short...hard to say for certain. However with the one spare I have fitted I've not been able to make that problem reappear, nor during a half hour test drive.

Car does look a bit silly with mis-matched indicators...but at least they're working again!

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That spare is a bit crusty inside as well so they'll both be swapped out when the new ones arrive.

I did note that while the short had gone that we still had a somewhat erratic flash rate, and definite interaction between the indicator and the headlight circuit. That to me just screamed "dodgy ground" based on prior experience. Sure enough, when I checked the ground point in the middle of this photo, it was floating at nearly 2V when the indicator was lit.

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Cleaning up everything and putting it back together did away with that stray voltage, - but am still not a fan of the arrangement. That bolt is also holding down the coil bracket so you can't crank it down massively tightly as you'll crush the coils. I had a hunch this probably was the location of the grounding problem given that that fault according to the previous owner only appeared after the electronic ignition was fitted. As that grounding point is shared between the headlights, indicator and ignition circuits, it had to be prime suspect.

I'm going to drill an additional hole in that plate to mount the grounding lugs to, then run a jumper to the inner wing. Those brown wires aren't long enough to just re-route to somewhere more sensible. I also want to replace that horrible looking taped together mess in the coil feeds, so I'll be revisiting that probably tomorrow.

Now the indicators are exactly as bright as each other, flash at the same rate and don't interact with the headlights any more at least.

The body to battery ground strap is also getting changed tomorrow as I noted when connecting it back up today that there's evidence of it having got quite warm in a couple of places. While I appreciate there's not a huge amount of electrical equipment on this car, it still looks a bit on the thin side to me anyway.

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Cheap and easy thing to upgrade anyway and I've already got a suitable one in stock.

The pile of removed wiring as of today amounts to this much.

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Which given how basic the electrical system in this car is I find quite an achievement.

I'm not saying for certain that we've fixed the short given the intermittent nature of it making it hard to say for definite without having found an obvious smoking gun, however so far it's looking at least hopeful.

Definitely have deleted a bit of spaghetti in the cabin over the last couple of days.

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Not having to push random wiring out of the way when reaching for the choke or fuel shut off will be a nice change.

Tomorrow's tasks:

[] Fit remaining new headlight, replace H4 lamp holders, & adjust them to something vaguely sensible in terms of beam pattern.

[] Replace body to battery earth lead.

[] Improve grounding arrangement to ignition coil bracket.

[] Adjust windscreen wipers.

If I get time anyway! Was quite lucky to get a few hours this afternoon I was able to just claim for car things.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Rp0thejester
Donor 2024
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Rp0thejester »

Zel, with the fleet that you currently have, have you thought about renting them out for an hour or so if the person had proper insurance? You have an interesting selection of cars that people would like to drive, Inc myself
Ryan

'99 Xsara 1.6 X (Red) with Sunkissed bonnet. T59 SBX
'54 Astra Estate 1.7DTI (Artic White)
'06 C8 2.2Hdi Exclusive (Aster Grey)

Champion of Where's CitroJim :-({|=
Yes I ask the stupid questions, because normally it is that simple.
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CitroJim
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by CitroJim »

Awesome work and progress Zel :D I do enjoy reading all about the little Trabby coming good :D
Jim

Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...