Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Tell us your ongoing tales and experiences with your French car here. Post pictures of your car here as well.
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Managed to grab half an hour this afternoon to get the air hose reel installed. It was moderately awkward to do simply because it's heavy. Clearly designed more for a commercial setting than a hobbyist garage - even the bracket just for the hose guide reel is like 1/4" thick. This made lifting it into place hard work and meant I needed to make sure to use some pretty heavy duty fasteners.

Think the location I've chosen should work well as it's entirely within what would otherwise be totally dead space.

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Nice and easily accessible though - especially once the quick connect has been fitted to weigh the end of the hose down.

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Also positioned such that if it *does* decide to pull the ceiling down, it'll more likely land on the door frame rather than the car. Not actually hooked up yet as I need a reducer for the outlet as it's 3/8" and everything I have here is 1/4" - and nowhere locally I could think of had a 3/8" quick connect fitting, so waiting on one arriving in the post.

There is a package on the way from Germany for the Merc with a pair of reproduction tail lights...if it ever makes it here. They appear to be having serious problems with shipping... it's ended up back at the dispatch depot twice now. Have also just ordered a new set of rear springs and tailgate gas struts. Be nice in particular to get the springs changed to get rid of the horrible gronking noises. Not been a cheap week!
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

I briefly had the Merc out after dark yesterday and it was very obvious that something was far amiss with the headlight aim.

Didn't take long to find out why today.

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As with many things on the Mercedes W123/S123 the headlamp beam height adjustment control is operated by vacuum...and that hose you see there should be attached to the nearside headlight height adjuster. I'm guessing I knocked it off when I pulled the cover off a couple of weeks ago. With it reattached the beam adjusters did their thing and the beam height looks more or less right now.

I did make another discovery of something on this car today which again made me go "hey, that's a really smart idea..." which seems to be something of a running theme.

Normally the bonnet opens this far. Which is better than on a lot of cars. Plus sprung hinges mean there's no faffing about with bonnet props.

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I also appreciate that the latch is buried up behind the grill as well so it's near impossible to catch your head on it. The bonnet sits high enough that even the grill hanging down doesn't get in the way.

However if you press this one little catch down on the offside hinge...

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The bonnet then swings all the way back to vertical (and equally importantly, latches there).

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This takes it completely out of the way and I'm pretty sure would even give you ample room to get in with an engine hoist if you needed to.

It's a feature that on 98% of the cars probably never got used even once after they left the showroom, yet the design and engineering team saw it as helpful enough for maintenance that they included it. On behalf of mechanics and hobbiests the world over, if you were one of the folks on that team, we thank you.

While doing a lighting check I did notice for the first time something that this car *doesn't* have which surprised me though.

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Indicator side repeaters. If memory serves it was 1986 that they became mandatory on new cars, so being a 1986 car this must be one of the last not to have them fitted - though it's worth mentioning there that this was the last year this model was made (with the saloon having been discontinued a year earlier in 1985) so they likely never got them.

I had TPA out for a run down Dunstable way today, mainly because I remembered there being a set of roadworks down there which tends to cause quite a queue and the Merc gets warmer than I really like in traffic...so was an obvious choice.

Ever since I changed the dynastart belts they have been quite noisy. Originally I'd just put this down to them needing to bed in...but after a few hundred miles they're still making a din.

Looking closer I think I can see why. The inboard one isn't sitting properly.

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Same story on the lower pulley.

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My theory is that it's a bit too tight so is getting pulled down too far into the valley on the pulley. Now I've spotted that should be quick enough to resolve. Hopefully once I've shuffled shims around a bit the belts will quiet down a bit.


In other news the 3/8" to 1/4" adaptors turned up so I could finish the air line installation work.

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Doesn't really look much different to the last picture, but this is actually now all hooked up and working properly.

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We did initially have one small leak at this join. This is why I use leak detector spray as I'd never have found it otherwise.

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I had just been a bit too stingy with the PTFE tape it seemed as on take two it sealed perfectly without any issues. I've left the system charged and will see if we've lost all the air by morning. I need to do a test to see how far I can reach with this and my existing extension (the yellow hose you've seen previously). I'm hoping that I will be able to get to the whole driveway and can just ditch the annoying plastic coily one which seems to exist for the sole purpose of getting itself tangled around everything and smacking me in the face when it comes free.

Only task left on the air system until I call it good will be wiring in the power switch.

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The socket this is connected to is basically inaccessible (it's behind the tank) so is a pain to get to, but I obviously wanted a way to shut it off. I went for an industrial style switch as it was cheaper than an equivalent IP rated double pole rocker switch, which I wanted because I've had issues with dust and grime getting into none IP rated switches before. Plus I can just wipe this down if I get it covered in oily gunk, which will no doubt happen at some point.

Once that's wired up I'm calling it done for now. Few little bits and pieces to do to optimise things (like replacing that flexible line from the receiver to the regulator with rigid line) but it will be absolutely usable then.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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white exec
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by white exec »

Not sure about the side repeater date. Our '92 BX doesn't have them, although earlier models (eg '89) did.
Could just be that the revised FF indicator lights qualify as 'sides'...
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

white exec wrote: 27 Aug 2021, 08:05 Not sure about the side repeater date. Our '92 BX doesn't have them, although earlier models (eg '89) did.
Could just be that the revised FF indicator lights qualify as 'sides'...
I could be off, it's a very dim memory of a random bit of automotive trivia! As you say it could well be a broader requirement as well that the indicators must be visible from the side of the vehicle or words to that effect rather than specifically requiring the separate units.

Only one small job done today. Due to a missing trim clip the trim panel in front of the centre cubby hole sat a good 1/4" proud of the surrounding trim and looked obviously wrong.

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The way this whole panel is secured is that it slots into place under the ashtray then slides forward to locate. So replacing the missing clip wasn't something requiring *too* much precision. Cue careful use of a woodscrew...being careful to not break the surface. There was already a void here from where the original clip was secured so I've just used that space really rather than screwing further into quite a thin bit of wood.

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Sophisticated it isn't, but it works.

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The whole panel used to wobble around and rattle before, none of that now. If I find what type of clip was originally used there I will see about replacing it properly.one day, but it's pretty low on the priority list.

I really do like how with this interior that they seemed to have figured out exactly how much and where to use the polished wood trim to make it feel properly special, but not be too over the top and brash. Especially with a contrasting interior colour like blue or green.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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white exec
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by white exec »

So, not just wood veneer, but real wood underneath! Gosh.
Check the stocks of Rentokil!!
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Yet another headache trying to turn into a migraine yesterday meant I only had about half an hour before it became apparent that I wasn't just going to be powering through it and getting on with things.

Did get one tiny job done though. While I had managed to get the trim on the tailgate to sit flat again there was still a gap at the ends and a sharp edge there as the rubber capping had long since been ripped off. As this was moulded as part of the rubber strip itself it's not something you can just replace as a spare.

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Not being willing to part with a few hundred quid for a replacement trim strip, I instead made a replacement "end cap" from some epoxy putty. Not perfect but it'll be less conspicuous once I slap a bit of black paint on it. Had remembered this being a darker grey than this, but those are just the breaks sometimes.

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It means there's not a sharp edge there (on either side actually as they both had the same problem) so I'm not worried about me or some random member of the public snagging on it.

-- -- --

When checking it today I noted that the oil on the dipstick was looking distinctly dark again so it was time for it to be dropped and changed again.

Not black, but definitely dirty. This has been in the engine for about 700 miles.

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You can see how much grime the filter has been collecting between the pleats in the element. So this would have lost quite a chunk of flow capacity already.

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Somewhat worryingly there are a few ~1mm sized bits of metal flake in there. Optimistically they're from the camshaft as we know that's been subjected to abnormal wear due to oil starvation. It's entirely likely though they're from bearing surfaces deeper in the engine. Short of dropping the sump and pulling a couple of the bearing caps off the crankshaft for examination it's impossible to say. It's worth keeping in mind that the previous oil filter that I removed the first time I changed the oil on getting the car had failed so most of the oil was probably bypassing it.

I am going to have a look at how hard it is to drop the sump anyway as given the state of the top end I'm expecting the sump to be just as bad - and I'd really rather not have all that slime ending up blocking the oil pickup screen (as has killed innumerable 90s and early 00s Saab engines).

We've got acceptable oil pressure at idle, not great but acceptable, so I'm not immediately worried it's about to explode, but definitely something I need to keep an eye on. I'll be keeping on the "change the oil once it starts to get dark" routine for the foreseeable future. A bit of a case of closing the stable door after the horse has bolted, but there's only so much I can really do at this stage - if damage has happened it's already happened.

It's worth noting that thanks to sensible design by Mercedes that I was able to complete this oil change without spilling a single drop.

Also on investigation of the jammed passenger side heater temperature control found I need to order up a new bracket for the heater controls.

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Which I think is why this whole console is wobbly. That plastic frame is meant to be riveted to the front of the heater box, and the temperature controls are then bolted it it, and that locks everything together. With that broken (it's worse than it looks, I counted eight pieces) nothing is really secured properly. I'll aim to replace the cable for the passenger side temperature control while I'm at it...the valve moves freely but the cable is completely seized up.

Given the number of posts on various forums I found when searching for the part I'm guessing that bracket failing is a common issue. Get a horrible feeling that replacing it is going to be a pig of a job though as I reckon the whole console will need to come out to gain access.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Can you spot the difference?

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Well the obvious one is the stainless screws now holding the door handle on (rather than the rusty flat head screws that used to be there). What you can't tell is that this is actually the handle which used to be on the other door.

Something that I hadn't (for obvious reasons!) mentioned anywhere public was that one issue I had yet to deal with on TPA was that the nearside door lock was seized. The offside one worked fine...but I very seldom use that door as it's an absolute pain to close and likes to stick on the runners. Sorting it out is on the to do list, but I've not got there yet.

I had come up with a bodge with allowed me to make it appear locked - but with a solid pull on the handle you could still open it. There was no way to actually lock it properly though.

Today I finally got around to drilling out the screws holding the handles on so I could transfer the good one to the door I use. Then I set about seeing if I could get the seized lock apart and sort it. The answer was "sort of." It's still very sticky but does actually move now. Realistically it wants replacing though. For now though I've got it into a locked state...which given I don't use the offside door having it locked is just fine. You can still open it from inside - for example if I needed to exit that way in an emergency. The nearside door now locks and unlocks properly.

Something I'd been meaning to do for ages so nice to have it ticked off. I mean security is very much relative with these cars...but it's better than nothing! Definitely slightly less worrying leaving the car parked up anywhere public.

Especially in places like busy multi storey car parks for example.

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Ease of parking is definitely a plus with driving the Invacar. I remember those spaces being far tighter last time I was in this car park.

I also wasted about half an hour...they have the stairwells in that car park set up as one way...one to go down, one to go up. I found the "down" one just fine. When I came to return to the car...could I for the life of me find the other one? Not a chance. Eventually I gave in and walked up the vehicle only route. Still haven't the foggiest where the entrance to the other one is!

Had a box arrive today I've been waiting a couple of weeks for - the replacement tail lights for the Merc. Took forever to arrive as there were issues with the shipping - with the goods having been returned to the sender twice - I assume due to issues with export paperwork.

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Before and after for the offside.

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Fit is...average at best. But given they were about 10% of the cost of most of the used genuine ones I've found I'd say it's reasonable. I doubt you'd notice unless you were looking for it.

The original here has pretty well had it.

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Sadly the replacement nearside one fared less well during transit.

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Seller immediately agreed to send a replacement, so hopefully that will be here soon. Be nice to get these sorted out. Small detail really, but a very visibly obvious one.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Not been anything going on since the start of last week as entirely predictably my second COVID vaccine dose pretty much clobbered me. I'm just about feeling like a vaguely functional human being again now. I had expected this to be honest, everyone has said the second one of Moderna is the roughest and I always have a rough time with vaccines.

It was actually quite pleasant outside over the weekend but I just wasn't well enough to do anything, I did try once and made it precisely as far as opening the garage door, picking up the socket set and then realising I was totally winded already...then today this nonsense has reappeared.

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About 23 is the upper limit I can tolerate while still being anything resembling productive.

So instead I went out for a drive and to pick up a few things. Was originally going to take the van as it's by far the most comfortable on a warm day (and doesn't give a damn itself about the heat as the cooling system has what seems like about 300% of spare capacity). However it needs fuel...and I really want to drop the fuel tank before I fill it again to try to finally sort the vent pipe so I can fill the tank in less than half an hour.

So there was an obvious choice. Especially being late enough in the day that I was half expecting to get caught in some traffic.

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Upon my arrival home one of the jobs on my "I need to get around to this one day" list decided to push itself to the front.

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The rearmost of the window latches on the offside window finally exploded (quite impressively!) in a hail shower of brittle black plastic. All four are pretty much knackered so it's just time to get a new set ordered. They're readily (if annoyingly expensively) available as they're the same ones as used on early Minis.

They've all been missing huge chunks and badly cracked since I first got hold of KPL back in January 2018 so kind of surprised they've held together this long.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Gibbo2286 »

Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. (Albert Einstein)
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

Gibbo2286 wrote: 07 Sep 2021, 09:42 these on Ebay at the moment. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194198203200 ... wxw5eTqPu
Cheers for that. That does seem to be the going rate for them. Not really bad to be honest, just thirty quid sounds like a lot to me for a few bits of plastic I know would have been "Ah give us a fiver then..." from the scrap yards I used to live by!

-- -- --

Having a little bit of a moment of concern over the long term prospects for the engine in the S123. I'm pretty certain that the hot oil pressure at idle has dropped somewhat since it was changed a week or so back. I'm sure we were seeing just under 1.5 bar at the point the cooling fan was cycling. Now looking at this.

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It was hotter than Hell out there today and I think the idle may be fractionally lower than when I last checked (I think the IAC valve would probably benefit from a clean), but it definitely seems to be lower.

This isn't entirely unexpected to be honest... let's not forget that this is what several lobes of the camshaft look like.

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I was pretty much braced for there most likely to be deeper issues... especially as the oil filter element was so clogged when I went to change it the first time that it had collapsed.

The most likely candidates I can think of off the top.of my head are:

[] Clogged oil pickup strainer.

[] Gunk in the oil pump pressure relief valve so it doesn't seat properly.

[] Big end bearings and/or journals in the same state as the camshaft.

[] Oil pump rotors or casing ground away to nothing...like the camshaft.

[] Or it's just a bit of a worn out old engine and wants some thicker oil thrown in.

Which is definitely the first thing we'll be doing after I've had a peek at the oil filter element to make sure it hasn't been clogged up by some gunk having come loose from somewhere.

If it turns out we do have decaying oil pressure which isn't just needing a new filter and a grade change we obviously need to do something about it. The big question is rebuild or replace?

I would definitely be leaning towards wholesale replacement with another engine. I'd be expecting the crankshaft to be scrap based on what I've seen so far...and I'd probably basically end up replacing everything aside from the block itself...even then I'd never be completely sure that I'd got all the gunk out!

If I could find a complete unit with a gearbox that would be even better as I know this one isn't 100% healthy - third gear is engaged with a sledgehammer when cold and first gear only appears for about half a second when pulling away with your foot on the floor...oh, and the fluid smells like burnt toast which is never a good sign.

Given that it's usually rust which kills these cars I'm hoping that tracking down a good power unit wouldn't be too massive a headache. On that note, if you know anyone with an M102.980 engine sitting under a tarp in the corner of a garage, let me know.

At least it looks like doing an engine swap on this car doesn't look like it should be too difficult. Definitely worth doing if it comes to it though I think.

Hopefully we won't need it...but I'd rather be prepared for it if we do. This is why I keep an eye on my instruments, so things like this don't sneak up on you. The actual numbers on the gauges aren't so important... it's keeping an eye out for them doing something different to what they normally do that's important and is a pointer towards something needing attention.

Sorry, that turned into a bit of a ramble.

Kind of surprising really in that having owned probably fifty odd cars over the years - with 80% of those being sub £500 examples - I've never actually had a major mechanical failure. Most in-depth surgery I've ever had to do was a head gasket swap on my last Skoda. Even if I do wind up needing to do major work this time that's still not a bad batting average really. A good advert for preventative maintenance too!
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by myglaren »

I wonder if STP is still around. I used to be a fan of that in the sixties and seventies. Haven't had any for decades.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by white exec »

I'd be checking the actual oil pressure with a good pressure gauge, and throwing in a fill of 20W50.
No fan of STP.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by xantia_v6 »

I would think that the evidence points towards all the bearings in that engine being rather worn.

I would be putting in some thicker oil, but you might find that the engine will go another 100,000 miles without a rebuild. There only needs to be enough oil pressure to prevent metal to metal contact in the bearings.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by Zelandeth »

xantia_v6 wrote: 08 Sep 2021, 11:06 ...but you might find that the engine will go another 100,000 miles without a rebuild...
If we were just down on pressure a bit that might be the case...sadly I don't think that's going to be the case...

-- -- --

Well I've got news and it ain't good.

Figured dropping the oil and putting some heavier weight in there wasn't the worst idea.

The drain pan tells us what we need to know I think. It was cleaned before use. The oil has been in there for about a week and a hundred or so miles.

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All those specs in there? They're all shiny. Which means they're all bits of metal which *should* be attached to the innards of my engine...most likely either the cam or crankshaft.

With 20W50 in there rather than 10W30, we've gained maybe 5-7psi of oil pressure when hot. A bit but nothing dramatic.

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She's obviously hurting pretty bad.

The biggest question at this point really is where has that metal come from?

We know the camshaft is knackered...well the lobes are, no way to see what state the bearings are in without pulling things to bits. Need to have a closer look at my spare head to see how much work it might be to pop the caps off to take a look.

Does anyone know off the top of their head if you can drop the sump off this engine in situ easily enough, or is it a pain of a process because something is in the way? Because if we could pull a bearing cap or two off the bottom end that could tell us a lot.

Obviously the engine has issues, but if it's "just" the camshaft that's chewing itself up, changing the whole thing might be slight overkill. Hmm...further investigation needed.

I have started asking around to see if anyone knows of a spare engine about anywhere though.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

Unread post by mickthemaverick »

Just to clarify Zel, which exact engine is it? I will have a root around my contacts once I know exactly what you are looking for. Onward and upward!
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