Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.

[mickthemaverick]

I know what you mean about chasing the ramps down the drive Zel. I implemented a simple to do, but very effective solution.
Lay the ramps where you want to work, in my case just in front of the garage so the bonnet is just inside the door when the car is on them. Mark a line across the back of the ramps, I used a length of 3x2, then drill 10mm holes at appropriate spacing into the concrete 100mm deep. 1 in the centre. 2 at the outer limits of your widest vehicle and the 2 in between those so you have 5 evenly spaced holes in the concrete. Then cut 5 lengths of 10mm. Studding rod each 200mm long and 5 lengths each 100mm long. Put a 200mm stud into each hole and then your 3x2 across against the studs. Then set the ramps against the 3x2 and drive on with no fear of them moving. Once on you can remove the 3x2 and studs giving you clear access. I use the 100mm studs as sleepers to keep the holes clear when not in use. I pull them out with a magnet and it works very well!
I also put a mirror against the garage door so I can see the ramp as I drive on to prevent overshoot!!

[Zelandeth]

If it weren't for driveway congestion I'd just put them at the garage threshold. There's about a 1" concrete step there which does fine for holding them in place.

Just would have meant moving both the van and Jag out of the way to do it which sounded like work! Especially as the van isn't currently in MOT so I can't leave it off the drive. Not that schoolday parking around here would allow the space for it anyway.

[CitroJim]

Zel, I've replied to your PM sent via the other place

[white exec]

It's the sharp rise angle that makes ramps scoot.
Lay a 1m length of something like 8x2" (sorry for the mixed units) up to the ramp top, but just one ramp step below it.
You can then drive up this more gentle incline, and on to the ramp platform.
Most of the force goes downwards, so ramp less likely to move.
After the wheels have arrived at the top, you can remove the wood.

[Gibbo2286]

A strip of old carpet wrapped around the bottom rung and out a foot or so for the wheel to land on first will generally hold the ramp in place until the weight takes over.

[Zelandeth]

Well I don't know if it is the *only* oil leak on TPA, but the oil pressure switch is definitely a source of *an* oil leak. This was cleaned up and completely dry before I set off today.



Will get a new one ordered from Prokschi later on.

Have to admit that I'm staggered at the difference changing the Dynastart belts has made. Not so much in noise, but I'd say it's reduced mechanical vibration by about 80%, the engine just feels so much smoother now. Wouldn't have expected such a small mass wobbling around a bit to make such a huge difference, but I know vibration can be strange like that once you take into account resonance effects and such.

It's definitely improved performance of the charging system too, it starts charging a good bit earlier than it used to.

The additional trim panels on the rear pillars has helped the overall feeling of refinement in the cabin I think. It vastly reduces the amount of unfinished fibreglass you can see when you open the door. The roof obviously being the major bugbear in that department now.





Trying to decide when I get to that stage whether to trim the panel behind the sun visor the same dark grey I've used elsewhere or to match it to the lighter shade I'll be using for the roof.

Thinking probably stick with the grey as that will nicely blend in with the windscreen pillars.

[Hell Razor5543]

The way I might do it is to have on the "visible when up" side the same dark shade as the material above the windscreen, but a much lighter shade on the opposite side, so as not to distract you when driving.

[Zelandeth]

The way I might do it is to have on the "visible when up" side the same dark shade as the material above the windscreen, but a much lighter shade on the opposite side, so as not to distract you when driving.

For reference, the original finish here was a sort of stripy textured white fabric.

Which was decomposing when I got the car so was stripped and painted with a black textured paint.

This long predated me deciding to go down the carpet lining route.

[Hell Razor5543]

Well, whatever you decide, TPA does you credit. She almost certainly is better than when she rolled out of the factory.

[admiral51]

Think you may need to wait until you do the roof lining and then decide

[Hell Razor5543]

Just a thought. Because TPA is Sky Blue, why not have a headlining of a beautiful blue sky with fluffy white clouds?

[Zelandeth]

Think you may need to wait until you do the roof lining and then decide

The panel will be coming out when that happens anyway so it will be a good time to make the decision. That's an easy way to solidly anchor the leading edge of it that I'm definitely going to take advantage of.

Haven't fully dismissed the idea of a crackle type finish more similar to the dash either, though soft surfaces are better for noise reduction.

It's very much a low priority, just one of those things I look at and ponder the long term plan for sometimes.

Well, whatever you decide, TPA does you credit. She almost certainly is better than when she rolled out of the factory.

My basic aim has been to improve on the fit, finish and general refinement a bit. Those were not even vaguely on the radar at the factory as the car was never designed with the private retail market in mind. Aside from adding dual circuit brakes as a commonsense safety upgrade I've not really felt the need to make changes to the mechanical side of things.

The only thing I do think which might happen one day in that department is a carb upgrade. It seems to be relatively widely agreed that that's the biggest limiting factor where performance is concerned.

[white exec]

Takes me back to the '59 Mini I had, bought in 1969 for £15 - without engine - while I was at college.
Stripped out, and painted black (!), I carpeted the roof (inside, that is), along with the door inners, rear quarter panels, etc.
It got an 1100 TC engine, and a pair of P6 front seats. These last actually fitted, surprisingly.
105WMM stayed with us for a good few years, toured the Highlands and islands more than once, and acquired itself an auto 'box for a tenner while in Tobermory, of all places.
We sold her for a decent sum in 1978, and bought our first P6.
So . . . carpeted ceilings . . .

[Zelandeth]

Takes me back to the '59 Mini I had, bought in 1969 for £15 - without engine - while I was at college.
Stripped out, and painted black (!), I carpeted the roof (inside, that is), along with the door inners, rear quarter panels, etc.
It got an 1100 TC engine, and a pair of P6 front seats. These last actually fitted, surprisingly.
105WMM stayed with us for a good few years, toured the Highlands and islands more than once, and acquired itself an auto 'box for a tenner while in Tobermory, of all places.
We sold her for a decent sum in 1978, and bought our first P6.
So . . . carpeted ceilings . . .

This is probably one of relatively few cars which make a Mini seem quiet and refined!

[mickthemaverick]

I think my 1959 Reliant sidevalve would come into that category too Zel, so noisy in there it was pointless fitting a wireless!!