Zel's Fleet Blog - BX, Jag XJ-S, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D & 230TE, AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Nothing much on the cars to report today as I've been slightly sidetracked dealing with a somewhat poorly pet rat.
If you ever wondered what a slightly stoned one-eyed rat looks like, here you go.
He's just sleeping off the tail end of anaesthetic having had his teeth trimmed. There are some deeper issues there, but his teeth not wearing normally was the thing needing the most urgent attention as it was preventing him from being able to eat properly.
While I was out at the vet this arrived back at home.
It is reassuringly heavy, and with a rated torque figure of 350NM it should hopefully be sufficient to get the pulley bolts out of the Invacar. I think if that doesn't do the job, next step will be to pull the engine and gearbox then just take the gearbox to my usual garage to be sorted.
As it was a nice day it seemed a good opportunity to get the Lada out for a decent run.
Would have been rude not to get it out for a good run really.
If you ever wondered what a slightly stoned one-eyed rat looks like, here you go.
He's just sleeping off the tail end of anaesthetic having had his teeth trimmed. There are some deeper issues there, but his teeth not wearing normally was the thing needing the most urgent attention as it was preventing him from being able to eat properly.
While I was out at the vet this arrived back at home.
It is reassuringly heavy, and with a rated torque figure of 350NM it should hopefully be sufficient to get the pulley bolts out of the Invacar. I think if that doesn't do the job, next step will be to pull the engine and gearbox then just take the gearbox to my usual garage to be sorted.
As it was a nice day it seemed a good opportunity to get the Lada out for a decent run.
Would have been rude not to get it out for a good run really.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Give your rat some old oak to chew on that will fix his teeth.
We had rats in the loft when I bought my old business premises a 300+ year old Forest stone building, we could hear them sharpening their teeth on the old oak beams while we were in bed.
We had rats in the loft when I bought my old business premises a 300+ year old Forest stone building, we could hear them sharpening their teeth on the old oak beams while we were in bed.

Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. (Albert Einstein)
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
I like the look of that Impact Wrench, hadn't realised there was such a thing as a Mains Powered version. Think I've found it on Amazon, the "Silverstorm 593128", £46.99. Will be 'watching this space' with interest to see its effectiveness. I like Mains, and with the exception of one Light Duty Battery Screwdriver, everything of mine is 230v.
Must've felt good to take the Lada out, and good luck to Ratty. Talking of health, is your OH now recovered from his issues last year?
Also, PS to Gibbo. Am reasonably confident I'm gonna make it to the Coleford Carnival this year, hope to catch you there, perhaps swap mobile numbers by PM a day or two prior; by which time I'll be able to confirm 100% or not.
Must've felt good to take the Lada out, and good luck to Ratty. Talking of health, is your OH now recovered from his issues last year?
Also, PS to Gibbo. Am reasonably confident I'm gonna make it to the Coleford Carnival this year, hope to catch you there, perhaps swap mobile numbers by PM a day or two prior; by which time I'll be able to confirm 100% or not.
Puxa
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
I've got a lot of air tools and as I have no interest in climbing under cars any more I'll be trying to dispose of them soon together with 60+ years of other tools/stuff.
Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. (Albert Einstein)
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur wrote: 18 Apr 2019, 09:39 I like the look of that Impact Wrench, hadn't realised there was such a thing as a Mains Powered version. Think I've found it on Amazon, the "Silverstorm 593128", £46.99. Will be 'watching this space' with interest to see its effectiveness. I like Mains, and with the exception of one Light Duty Battery Screwdriver, everything of mine is 230v.
Must've felt good to take the Lada out, and good luck to Ratty. Talking of health, is your OH now recovered from his issues last year?
1. That's the one. There seems to be a huge price gap between the corded and cordless models. Haven't used this one in anger yet but have noted two things. Firstly it is reassuringly heavy. Secondly it actually feels pretty well put together. I can't remember having any trouble with Silverline stuff before.
Will give the wheel nuts on the van a test with them tomorrow.
2. Yes, has felt really good to get a few miles on the Lada. I really am going to miss that car, it's one of a fairly small group which just feels natural to me to drive. The driving position is a bit odd granted...but it works fine for my oddly shaped and slightly broken spine.
I always forget how not slow it is. She isn't massively quick off the mark, and is very like the van in that being gentle or thrashing it madly doesn't actually seem to have much effect on acceleration...just makes more noise. Despite that though she is perfectly happy to cruise at and above the motorway speed limit, and doesn't have any issues maintaining that without needing to drop out of fifth gear. Not bad given the age of the underlying design I think.
Darren has come through things pretty well all things considered. Given that one of the biggest factors in recovery from a stroke is how quickly the necessary treatment is administered, he's really lucky to be alive. It hit at around 2AM - it wasn't until 10AM that he was tracked down and an ambulance called. Looking at the CT and MRI printouts, he's essentially "lost" a good 20% of his brain mass to this event. Realistically given the way it unfolded he was hugely lucky to survive.
The single biggest headache we're currently facing is that (unsurprisingly) he has developed epilepsy. No massive writhing around on the floor or anything like that - the vast majority (usually several times a day) is just some tingling in his right hand lasting a few seconds and some slight slurring of his speech for fifteen minutes or so. Once every week on average, he will have a stronger one where it progresses to losing feeling in his right hand, loss of speech, loss of balance and strong facial spasms.
We're in the process of working with a specialist epilepsy team to fiddle around with medications to see if we can get that under control. Things have already improved a lot from where we started where he was having the more serious seizures a few times a day.
We are quite aware that given the amount of damage his brain has suffered that it may well be something we never get full control over.
These symptoms cause me some issues. Mainly in that the symptoms in these seizures are very similar to those my father suffered when he had a brain haemorrhage back in 1994. Likewise the fatigue Darren sometimes suffers now is very similar. I had really hoped to have left that chapter of my life behind me at long last when my father passed away in 2016. Apparently fate had other plans.
I found that I simply wasn't coping with this at all well and have been in touch with my GP. Following several interviews..."minor" case of what's essentially modern speak for PTSD, a separate anxiety disorder and am apparently depressed. Oh what fun.
They have offered me a place in a group therapy session (because that has worked so well on the last two occasions) - at the end of August. Will have to see how things go.
Given I now have a compressor and once I find a receiver and handful of fittings I should have air on tap, I may have some interest in some of that.Gibbo2286 wrote: 18 Apr 2019, 10:54 I've got a lot of air tools and as I have no interest in climbing under cars any more I'll be trying to dispose of them soon together with 60+ years of other tools/stuff.
Ran into a small snag with my impact wrench plan...the pulleys are mounted low enough down that the bodywork is in the way. My current plan for dealing with this is to undo the gearbox mounts and Jack that end of the drivetrain up a couple of inches which should give us just enough room. Failing that I'll need to see if I can find a universal joint which is up to the job here...
...Or pull the engine and gearbox out of the car.
Given I've just today discovered I am two weeks closer to our camping holiday than I though it will be all hands on deck this week to try to get the van ready. Not being helped by an eBay seller messing me around for a full week before admitting they didn't have the exhaust I wanted in stock.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
I’ve always found Silverline stuff pretty good too, for the limited amount of use it gets in my hands. The likes of Snap-On probably makes sense to a Garage Business, but to you & I; probably most often not.
Have you made any progress with the sale of the Lada? I’m a bit surprised to realise that its not slow, though I’d never actively given the subject any thought. Not bad at all, makes you wonder how far we’ve come with car design (sometimes feels like we’re going backwards).
…talking of which, if you missed the Goodwood Members Meeting on TV a week or two ago (BBC2 IIRC), you missed a treat. One partic race was pre-1925 machinery including a monstrous Fire Spitting Fiat S76; 300BHP from its 24litres (!) at 1,000rpm apparently! …and 6ft tall. Aka “The Beast of Turin”.
Glad to hear that its mostly good news for Darren, and I guess the episode has more than likely also helped you to appreciate one another all the better. Does this mean that you’re the only Driver? Mate of mine has just returned to the road after being barred on medical grounds and Daughter’s OH has at last insured himself on her car to share the on a 200-ish mile each way upcoming jaunt. Surprisingly, although I’ve not seen the paperwork personally, neither of them had the ‘Others Cars with Permission’ phrase on their policies.
I’ve had a bit of experience, as both a recipient of and being the OH of a recipient of Talking Therapies and the likes relating to very similar issues.
A few bullet points about medical stuff.
The Talking Therapies really depends on the Therapist, many are mediocre, some are awful; but a few can really tailor their training to the recipient and really WANT you to recover in a very genuine way. Such a situation is a powerful auger of change. If its within your finances to find someone privately, do so; you’ll quickly know whether he/she is right for you.
Anxiety: remove deadlines wherever possible, keep a Journal and use lists and Voice Notes (phone app) to remember and prioritise. I live my life this way.
Is it possible to also loosen a sub-frame to access the pulleys on the Inva-car engine, or is it so easy to remove that it’s a no brainer anyway?
Good luck with the van & the camping. Me-thinks you’d likely do well to temporarily abandon the other vehicles while you’re under the cosh with that. My favourite Site and indeed the only site we use (we normally 'Wild Camp') is Camping Zeeburg, Amsterdam. Its an easy run via Harwich and Amsterdam is so...ooo beautiful
Have you made any progress with the sale of the Lada? I’m a bit surprised to realise that its not slow, though I’d never actively given the subject any thought. Not bad at all, makes you wonder how far we’ve come with car design (sometimes feels like we’re going backwards).
…talking of which, if you missed the Goodwood Members Meeting on TV a week or two ago (BBC2 IIRC), you missed a treat. One partic race was pre-1925 machinery including a monstrous Fire Spitting Fiat S76; 300BHP from its 24litres (!) at 1,000rpm apparently! …and 6ft tall. Aka “The Beast of Turin”.
Glad to hear that its mostly good news for Darren, and I guess the episode has more than likely also helped you to appreciate one another all the better. Does this mean that you’re the only Driver? Mate of mine has just returned to the road after being barred on medical grounds and Daughter’s OH has at last insured himself on her car to share the on a 200-ish mile each way upcoming jaunt. Surprisingly, although I’ve not seen the paperwork personally, neither of them had the ‘Others Cars with Permission’ phrase on their policies.
I’ve had a bit of experience, as both a recipient of and being the OH of a recipient of Talking Therapies and the likes relating to very similar issues.
A few bullet points about medical stuff.
The Talking Therapies really depends on the Therapist, many are mediocre, some are awful; but a few can really tailor their training to the recipient and really WANT you to recover in a very genuine way. Such a situation is a powerful auger of change. If its within your finances to find someone privately, do so; you’ll quickly know whether he/she is right for you.
Anxiety: remove deadlines wherever possible, keep a Journal and use lists and Voice Notes (phone app) to remember and prioritise. I live my life this way.
Is it possible to also loosen a sub-frame to access the pulleys on the Inva-car engine, or is it so easy to remove that it’s a no brainer anyway?
Good luck with the van & the camping. Me-thinks you’d likely do well to temporarily abandon the other vehicles while you’re under the cosh with that. My favourite Site and indeed the only site we use (we normally 'Wild Camp') is Camping Zeeburg, Amsterdam. Its an easy run via Harwich and Amsterdam is so...ooo beautiful
Puxa
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Thing with the Lada and performance is that the 1500 version was pretty sensibly matched to the car. 80bhp is perfectly sufficient in a car that's only just over a ton (saloon is just under), especially as it's pretty low geared. The only thing which stops it from being a totally relaxed motorway cruiser is the fact that it's not exactly quiet!
We don't actually know exactly what the power figures are with the injection kit on. Based on the differences between engines on the Nivas though we reckon that what's probably happened is that we've actually lost a few horsepower but gained a good chunk of extra torque. It also has flattened the power and torque curves out a lot which made the car a lot more pleasant to drive.
Annoyingly I have had absolutely zero genuine interest in it yet. Several tyre kickers (including one who wasted nearly an entire afternoon of my time going over the thing with a magnifying glass before offering me £300 or something like that). It's really starting to become a source of stress for me.
I think once the Invacar is recommissioned to at least the point where I can bumble around to some local shows in it I'll just need to bite the bullet and change the wings on the Lada. They really do drag the appearance of the car down, and really won't be helping sell it. Annoyingly they're held on by a million spot welds...so it's not a five minute job.
We have four people in the house, and originally we all were driver's. Chris has a company car (usually some absolutely horrible Audi these days) but has never driven anything of mine. He's not an old car person.
His wife Abby used to drive, and I used to ensure that we kept her on whichever modern car I had at any point as well as Chris' one in the interests of flexibility. That all went out the window when she had her depressive breakdown and was banned from driving back in 2016.
Darren had his licence pulled once the epilepsy started, needs to have been totally seizure free for two years before they will consider returning his right to drive. So it's quite unlikely that he will be driving again being realistic.
We're hoping that next year we will be able to get Abby back on at least on or two of the insurance policies, but not yet. That will need to wait until it's two years since her ban expired (which I still reckon we should have fought more at the time as the way the whole case was handled from start to finish was beyond unreasonable) as pricing otherwise was just ridiculous - read nearly two grand to get her on the Xantia on a social only, 1k miles a year policy with £1500 excess. On the plus side at least I don't find the van to be too tiring to drive, and as we will have the dog on board will be wanting to stop every hour or two anyway so not having an extra driver won't be a huge issue.
We don't actually know exactly what the power figures are with the injection kit on. Based on the differences between engines on the Nivas though we reckon that what's probably happened is that we've actually lost a few horsepower but gained a good chunk of extra torque. It also has flattened the power and torque curves out a lot which made the car a lot more pleasant to drive.
Annoyingly I have had absolutely zero genuine interest in it yet. Several tyre kickers (including one who wasted nearly an entire afternoon of my time going over the thing with a magnifying glass before offering me £300 or something like that). It's really starting to become a source of stress for me.
I think once the Invacar is recommissioned to at least the point where I can bumble around to some local shows in it I'll just need to bite the bullet and change the wings on the Lada. They really do drag the appearance of the car down, and really won't be helping sell it. Annoyingly they're held on by a million spot welds...so it's not a five minute job.
We have four people in the house, and originally we all were driver's. Chris has a company car (usually some absolutely horrible Audi these days) but has never driven anything of mine. He's not an old car person.
His wife Abby used to drive, and I used to ensure that we kept her on whichever modern car I had at any point as well as Chris' one in the interests of flexibility. That all went out the window when she had her depressive breakdown and was banned from driving back in 2016.
Darren had his licence pulled once the epilepsy started, needs to have been totally seizure free for two years before they will consider returning his right to drive. So it's quite unlikely that he will be driving again being realistic.
We're hoping that next year we will be able to get Abby back on at least on or two of the insurance policies, but not yet. That will need to wait until it's two years since her ban expired (which I still reckon we should have fought more at the time as the way the whole case was handled from start to finish was beyond unreasonable) as pricing otherwise was just ridiculous - read nearly two grand to get her on the Xantia on a social only, 1k miles a year policy with £1500 excess. On the plus side at least I don't find the van to be too tiring to drive, and as we will have the dog on board will be wanting to stop every hour or two anyway so not having an extra driver won't be a huge issue.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
So the task for this weekend is as far as possible to bash our way through the list of stuff the van needs for an MOT.
Let's start out with some low hanging fruit. The nearside headlight reflector is sufficiently tarnished to result in there being zip by way of a beam image. Usefully a brand new headlight was found in a box in the van, so I fitted that.
Nice five minute job.
The old one doesn't actually look too bad surprisingly, but it was utterly failing to do anything by way of actually directing light in a useful direction.
Beam height will need adjusting obviously but that can wait until it's pointing the other direction so I can use the garage door, which I think still has marks on from when I adjusted the headlights on the Saab about four years ago.
The next thing on the MOT list was to eliminate a minor fuel leak. There was a very slow drip from the return line to the tank with the engine running, emanating from somewhere up between the fuel tank and vacuum reservoir. This was quickly traced to this pipe joiner.
It was utterly disinterested in gripping the fuel pipe firmly no matter what I did. So it was removed, binned and a short length of 5/16" fuel hose was slipped over the join between the two pipes instead. While I did get diesel in my hair this was another quick job, fuel tight and tested after less than ten minutes.
There is a new exhaust on the way. Unfortunately this is a slightly different type to the one the van was previously fitted with (I was struggling to find anyone who actually had that in stock), so the downpipe and tailpipe of the old system would need to come off. My original plan had been to retain those until I got around to having a bespoke stainless system made for it.
Thanks to decent quality fasteners it only took fifteen minutes to get the tailpipe off. It's seeing stuff like this which really highlights how much longer the van is than most cars.
This whole stretch will be removed once the bespoke system is made - given the weight of this that can only be a good thing. I'm not removing the downpipe and expansion box (which is only loosely bolted on just now) until the new system arrives as that will essentially immobilise the van. I have doused the manifold to downpipe bolts in Plusgas though.
There were a number of things in the van which didn't work when I got it. Among those were the marker lights above the cab. I want to resolve that. This is where I went off on a merry old dance.
After approximately an hour the cab had ended up looking like this.
This was all going on because I was peering into the bowels of the wiring loom trying to figure out where on earth the feed to those lights was meant to come from.
I had found two fuses in the fuse box which were labelled as marker light (well, they were actually labelled in German but not hard to translate). However tracing the conductors from there proved exceedingly difficult, and I couldn't figure out how they got into the space above the cab.
After wasting not an insignificant amount of time dismantling the cab, I eventually tracked down a total of five wires heading up into the windscreen pillars. All of these were accounted for as part of the interior light circuit. Cue much more head scratching.
Eventually after several times longer than it should have, the penny dropped. It was highly unlikely that AutoTrail were going to have messed with the cab wiring...they stuck some carpet and fancy velour in there, but they didn't faff with the wiring.
The only area where the standard lighting had been messed with was at the back, where the tail lights were moved from the cross member where they would have been when it was just a bare chassis with a cab to the rear bumper...oh, and the upper level tail lights. Wait a minute... didn't I find a couple of wires I couldn't account for ages ago, but just stuffed away because they appeared inert. Yeah... here's two of them...
Surely these couldn't be anything to do with the marker lights way up front... surely? Well let's find out. One was a solid ground connection...the other wasn't...so let's stick 12V down it and see what happens.
Seriously?!? Awards for the most ridiculously unnecessarily circuitous route for wiring to feed a couple of lights?
Annoyingly the feed which I suspect to be for the nearside one is now safely terminated and buried behind the bathroom wall...the wall I just finished building and finished tidily. Argh! I am not pulling that all apart again if I can avoid it - especially on the clock like this. Currently thinking the best plan of action is to cut a couple of holes in the trim in the locker over the cab and just stick the lights in parallel... they're only 10W so should be just fine that way.
That's as far as we got today. Hopefully will get those back in a working state tomorrow and then move on to the next things on the list. Getting the new brake pads in is probably looking like a favourite for the next job.
I will definitely need to get the rust in the bulkhead seen to sooner than later.
Hopefully that won't be an MOT issue as it's well clear of any prescribed areas I believe.
Let's start out with some low hanging fruit. The nearside headlight reflector is sufficiently tarnished to result in there being zip by way of a beam image. Usefully a brand new headlight was found in a box in the van, so I fitted that.
Nice five minute job.
The old one doesn't actually look too bad surprisingly, but it was utterly failing to do anything by way of actually directing light in a useful direction.
Beam height will need adjusting obviously but that can wait until it's pointing the other direction so I can use the garage door, which I think still has marks on from when I adjusted the headlights on the Saab about four years ago.
The next thing on the MOT list was to eliminate a minor fuel leak. There was a very slow drip from the return line to the tank with the engine running, emanating from somewhere up between the fuel tank and vacuum reservoir. This was quickly traced to this pipe joiner.
It was utterly disinterested in gripping the fuel pipe firmly no matter what I did. So it was removed, binned and a short length of 5/16" fuel hose was slipped over the join between the two pipes instead. While I did get diesel in my hair this was another quick job, fuel tight and tested after less than ten minutes.
There is a new exhaust on the way. Unfortunately this is a slightly different type to the one the van was previously fitted with (I was struggling to find anyone who actually had that in stock), so the downpipe and tailpipe of the old system would need to come off. My original plan had been to retain those until I got around to having a bespoke stainless system made for it.
Thanks to decent quality fasteners it only took fifteen minutes to get the tailpipe off. It's seeing stuff like this which really highlights how much longer the van is than most cars.
This whole stretch will be removed once the bespoke system is made - given the weight of this that can only be a good thing. I'm not removing the downpipe and expansion box (which is only loosely bolted on just now) until the new system arrives as that will essentially immobilise the van. I have doused the manifold to downpipe bolts in Plusgas though.
There were a number of things in the van which didn't work when I got it. Among those were the marker lights above the cab. I want to resolve that. This is where I went off on a merry old dance.
After approximately an hour the cab had ended up looking like this.
This was all going on because I was peering into the bowels of the wiring loom trying to figure out where on earth the feed to those lights was meant to come from.
I had found two fuses in the fuse box which were labelled as marker light (well, they were actually labelled in German but not hard to translate). However tracing the conductors from there proved exceedingly difficult, and I couldn't figure out how they got into the space above the cab.
After wasting not an insignificant amount of time dismantling the cab, I eventually tracked down a total of five wires heading up into the windscreen pillars. All of these were accounted for as part of the interior light circuit. Cue much more head scratching.
Eventually after several times longer than it should have, the penny dropped. It was highly unlikely that AutoTrail were going to have messed with the cab wiring...they stuck some carpet and fancy velour in there, but they didn't faff with the wiring.
The only area where the standard lighting had been messed with was at the back, where the tail lights were moved from the cross member where they would have been when it was just a bare chassis with a cab to the rear bumper...oh, and the upper level tail lights. Wait a minute... didn't I find a couple of wires I couldn't account for ages ago, but just stuffed away because they appeared inert. Yeah... here's two of them...
Surely these couldn't be anything to do with the marker lights way up front... surely? Well let's find out. One was a solid ground connection...the other wasn't...so let's stick 12V down it and see what happens.
Seriously?!? Awards for the most ridiculously unnecessarily circuitous route for wiring to feed a couple of lights?
Annoyingly the feed which I suspect to be for the nearside one is now safely terminated and buried behind the bathroom wall...the wall I just finished building and finished tidily. Argh! I am not pulling that all apart again if I can avoid it - especially on the clock like this. Currently thinking the best plan of action is to cut a couple of holes in the trim in the locker over the cab and just stick the lights in parallel... they're only 10W so should be just fine that way.
That's as far as we got today. Hopefully will get those back in a working state tomorrow and then move on to the next things on the list. Getting the new brake pads in is probably looking like a favourite for the next job.
I will definitely need to get the rust in the bulkhead seen to sooner than later.
Hopefully that won't be an MOT issue as it's well clear of any prescribed areas I believe.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
So if I remember rightly we had just figured out where the wiring for the offside front marker light emerged into somewhere vaguely accessible. This had pretty much confirmed to me that the mystery wire that I'd stuffed into a corner above the bathroom ceiling was actually for a light at the opposite end of the van...
This left me with a bit of a quandary. Namely that getting access to that wire - which I couldn't even remember if I had trimmed back as far as I could - meant having to tear apart at least a fair chunk of the upper rear wall in the bathroom, the wall I had just spent a not inconsiderable amount of time building.
I did pull apart a tiny bit in one corner to see if I could find the wire by stuffing my hand into the void and grasping blindly. Not a chance. I decided quite quickly to abandon that idea as there was a far easier solution to my mind. Having the lights individually fed from each tail light was a little unnecessary to my mind. Just sticking them in parallel on a single feed seems fine to me. We're walking a pair of 10W festoon lamps (which I will probably replace long term with LEDs - warm white ones before you all jump down my throat) rather than any high power stuff.
This still left me with some work to do, as being a coach built van, all of the wiring and such was routed long before the interior plywood lining was put in place. Initially I wondered if it might be possible to get the upper front trim panel in the over cab locker off. After spending half an hour in there (and nearly dying of heat exhaustion) I ascertained that AutoTrail weren't messing around. The panels are both stapled to the frame *and* glued in place. It ain't going anywhere.
I then decided to take a somewhat more direct (if barbaric) approach as I was done with standing on my head in the locker.
I went round outside, pulled the cover off the lights, found where the cable fed into the van, stuck the screwdriver into that hole then gave it a smack with the palm of my hand, more than enough to punch a hole in the plywood trim inside the van which I could then use as a marker for where I needed to dig out a bit of a hole to gain access.

Likewise on the offside - the mess in the corner there is from my earlier attempts to see if I could get the panel off in its entirety.

It was a quick matter then to disconnect the original live feed to the nearside light and terminate it, and to wire a link between the two to feed them both from the original offside light. I'll obviously make a couple of little covers to go over the holes and will clip the wire in place.

I had taken the lenses off both of them last night to give them a good clean as they were full of pond scum. The seals having disintegrated years ago.

There is quite a bit of crazing on them, but they've cleaned up pretty well.

That was half the challenge...I now had the lights ready to accept power and a wire dangling out of the rear kitchen cupboard...however there was a kitchen and a floor between it and the relevant bit of the vehicle loom for me to tie it in to.
I decided in the end not to go pulling the walls apart again. I drilled a small hole in the base of the cupboard (it has a lip along the front so it's not visible) having pulled the window blind runner and window trim off, tucked the wire into the void under the trim, drilled another small hole in the worktop (again hidden by the window trim), and routed the wire down to the space below down the cabinets. Then I had it follow the sink waste pipe through the floor.

No it ain't pretty. This is a job I can definitely see me coming back to at some point in the future (I'll need to open the walls up really when I reinstate the high level tail lights) but it will at least get the lights working for now.
Once I got it that far I just pulled the offside tail light cluster out and put a piggy back spade terminal on this side and hooked it up to the tail light lamp holder. Glad to see they seem to be fully weatherproof as there was zero signs of water ingress inside the cluster.
The moment of truth of course was to see what would happen when I turned on the headlights.

Hard to see in such bright sunlight, so here's one from a few hours later.

Much better! Seeing that pleases me far more than it probably should do.
On the subject of lighting (as it seemed as good a time to do a full check on it with the MOT coming up and all that) I found that the nearside front indicator was out. New lamp time. This should be a ten second job, if it wasn't for the stupid poorly fitted alarm wiring getting in the way yet again. This thing had been annoying me for months. The entire installation was a mess. This nonsense floating around in the fusebox for a start.

The only fusing to the whole thing being in the *ground* connection didn't instill confidence either.

Twenty minutes later the engine bay looked a good deal less cluttered.


This is the pile of rubbish that was removed.

The interior could then be put back together. Having tidied up the wiring behind the fuse box meant it was far easier to get it back in place this time. Also hopefully has put an end to getting wiring stuck in the seal when putting the engine cover back in.

Before I buttoned that up I drowned the whole rusty area under the heater intake with Kurust.

Also put some tape on this area on the engine side to keep any further water out until I have the opportunity to get a new panel welded in.
Annoyingly removal of the ultrasonic transducer assembly from the top of the dashboard left three holes.

...So I just stuck that back in place. Not that I think a circa 1990 car alarm is likely to be much of a deterrent to would be thieves, it can't hurt. Plus it's a useful thing to attach cameras etc to. It can stay there until I either find something else to take its place or find a dash moulding free of screw holes.

The LED in the dash is staying put for now similarly to avoid leaving a hole. I will be putting an indicator in there to give me a visual indication in the cab of if the power has been left on in the back of the van so I can't forget to switch stuff off before leaving the van or driving off.
The nearside indicator repeater lens is in dire need of a good clean as like the lenses of the marker lights it's been full of pond scum and rust.

Brake pads next. First challenge there will be seeing if I can get the wheel trims off in one piece - if not it will be all the more excuse to bin the horrible things!
This left me with a bit of a quandary. Namely that getting access to that wire - which I couldn't even remember if I had trimmed back as far as I could - meant having to tear apart at least a fair chunk of the upper rear wall in the bathroom, the wall I had just spent a not inconsiderable amount of time building.
I did pull apart a tiny bit in one corner to see if I could find the wire by stuffing my hand into the void and grasping blindly. Not a chance. I decided quite quickly to abandon that idea as there was a far easier solution to my mind. Having the lights individually fed from each tail light was a little unnecessary to my mind. Just sticking them in parallel on a single feed seems fine to me. We're walking a pair of 10W festoon lamps (which I will probably replace long term with LEDs - warm white ones before you all jump down my throat) rather than any high power stuff.
This still left me with some work to do, as being a coach built van, all of the wiring and such was routed long before the interior plywood lining was put in place. Initially I wondered if it might be possible to get the upper front trim panel in the over cab locker off. After spending half an hour in there (and nearly dying of heat exhaustion) I ascertained that AutoTrail weren't messing around. The panels are both stapled to the frame *and* glued in place. It ain't going anywhere.
I then decided to take a somewhat more direct (if barbaric) approach as I was done with standing on my head in the locker.
I went round outside, pulled the cover off the lights, found where the cable fed into the van, stuck the screwdriver into that hole then gave it a smack with the palm of my hand, more than enough to punch a hole in the plywood trim inside the van which I could then use as a marker for where I needed to dig out a bit of a hole to gain access.

Likewise on the offside - the mess in the corner there is from my earlier attempts to see if I could get the panel off in its entirety.

It was a quick matter then to disconnect the original live feed to the nearside light and terminate it, and to wire a link between the two to feed them both from the original offside light. I'll obviously make a couple of little covers to go over the holes and will clip the wire in place.

I had taken the lenses off both of them last night to give them a good clean as they were full of pond scum. The seals having disintegrated years ago.

There is quite a bit of crazing on them, but they've cleaned up pretty well.

That was half the challenge...I now had the lights ready to accept power and a wire dangling out of the rear kitchen cupboard...however there was a kitchen and a floor between it and the relevant bit of the vehicle loom for me to tie it in to.
I decided in the end not to go pulling the walls apart again. I drilled a small hole in the base of the cupboard (it has a lip along the front so it's not visible) having pulled the window blind runner and window trim off, tucked the wire into the void under the trim, drilled another small hole in the worktop (again hidden by the window trim), and routed the wire down to the space below down the cabinets. Then I had it follow the sink waste pipe through the floor.

No it ain't pretty. This is a job I can definitely see me coming back to at some point in the future (I'll need to open the walls up really when I reinstate the high level tail lights) but it will at least get the lights working for now.
Once I got it that far I just pulled the offside tail light cluster out and put a piggy back spade terminal on this side and hooked it up to the tail light lamp holder. Glad to see they seem to be fully weatherproof as there was zero signs of water ingress inside the cluster.
The moment of truth of course was to see what would happen when I turned on the headlights.

Hard to see in such bright sunlight, so here's one from a few hours later.

Much better! Seeing that pleases me far more than it probably should do.
On the subject of lighting (as it seemed as good a time to do a full check on it with the MOT coming up and all that) I found that the nearside front indicator was out. New lamp time. This should be a ten second job, if it wasn't for the stupid poorly fitted alarm wiring getting in the way yet again. This thing had been annoying me for months. The entire installation was a mess. This nonsense floating around in the fusebox for a start.

The only fusing to the whole thing being in the *ground* connection didn't instill confidence either.

Twenty minutes later the engine bay looked a good deal less cluttered.


This is the pile of rubbish that was removed.

The interior could then be put back together. Having tidied up the wiring behind the fuse box meant it was far easier to get it back in place this time. Also hopefully has put an end to getting wiring stuck in the seal when putting the engine cover back in.

Before I buttoned that up I drowned the whole rusty area under the heater intake with Kurust.

Also put some tape on this area on the engine side to keep any further water out until I have the opportunity to get a new panel welded in.
Annoyingly removal of the ultrasonic transducer assembly from the top of the dashboard left three holes.

...So I just stuck that back in place. Not that I think a circa 1990 car alarm is likely to be much of a deterrent to would be thieves, it can't hurt. Plus it's a useful thing to attach cameras etc to. It can stay there until I either find something else to take its place or find a dash moulding free of screw holes.

The LED in the dash is staying put for now similarly to avoid leaving a hole. I will be putting an indicator in there to give me a visual indication in the cab of if the power has been left on in the back of the van so I can't forget to switch stuff off before leaving the van or driving off.
The nearside indicator repeater lens is in dire need of a good clean as like the lenses of the marker lights it's been full of pond scum and rust.

Brake pads next. First challenge there will be seeing if I can get the wheel trims off in one piece - if not it will be all the more excuse to bin the horrible things!
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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- Donor 2024
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Have been putting it off for long enough...time to get the brake pads changed.
Have to admit to being hugely impressed by this tiny little jack.
Two aspects. Firstly is that it lifted something the size and weight of this van effortlessly. Secondly in that it's cleverly designed so it slots securely around the suspension leaf (or axle tube at the rear). This also makes the jacking process far less unnerving as you don't need to lift the thing feet into the air - literally about an inch has the tyre clear of the ground.
Very glad that I bought the rattle gun...very much doubt I'd have got these wheel nuts out without it...to say they were tight would be a massive understatement.
It's pleasing how substantial everything on this is when you're used to working on cars. Nice to see the discs are obviously pretty decent, no lip at all.
Let's have a look then and see how the calipers come apart to get the pads out...wait a second...
...I thought we were dealing with a worn out set of pads. Not a set that's barely used.
Oh well, got a good opportunity to check things over while the wheel is off. Grease gun was brought in and the kingpin given a good shot of grease (yes I did wipe the excess off before I put the wheel back on).
Annoyingly I almost immediately spotted more MOT work though. The track rod end ball joint dust cover is knackered.
That's one substantial drop link!
Everything else over this side looks okay to me. Bit of rust on the brake hose ferrules, but they've got another year or two in them I reckon. Hoses themselves seem nice and supple still with no perishing. Can't see anything awry with the wiring to the pad wear sensors in that the wheel arch.
Have the hub a good brush down and painted the wheel surface with copper grease as per my usual practice and put things back together. Then on to the offside wheel.
I was slightly worried given the new pads in the nearside but the perpetually flickering brake light on the dash that I would find that someone had only changed the pads on one wheel (wouldn't be the first time I have found that!).
Thank goodness for that!
Gave the kingpin on this side a good dose of grease while I was there too. This is something which is often neglected on these old Mercs. The steering should be lovely and light once you're on the move (especially if it's got the correct tyres on) though it's inevitably fairly weighty when parking! Annoying to hear of people having to do major work due to wear in there for the sake of a 30 second bit of service work!
Hey look...another stuffed track rod end.
Not too bothered about those as track rod ends are hardly going to break the bank. The other split dust cover however is on the steering linkage from the steering box (I believe drag link is the correct term?) which is rather more annoying as I expect this is rather more expensive.
This one I actually knew about beforehand so not a huge surprise. There's a little bit of play in one of the joints as you can hear something very faintly going "dunk dunk dunk..." when you rock the steering. Can't see where it's coming from but given where that is it's a prime candidate. Don't *think* it's one of the track rod ends as I can't feel anything in the way of movement at the wheels.
Looks like my local Mercedes dealer will be making some money out of me tomorrow then. Yes I could probably find stuff a bit cheaper on eBay (etc) but the parts desk at our dealer has been really helpful so far. Plus Mercedes seem to have really good heritage support and I'm more than willing to pay a few quid extra to show that is owners appreciate that.
Depending on how time goes I might fit those things myself...though I'd rather get the garage to. I generally avoid steering and suspension work if I have any choice these days. I've played the "the ball joint appears to have been welded in place and I've immobilised the car trying to get it out" game enough times to learn that throwing it at someone with a four post lift, serious ball joint splitters and oxy-acytaline on hand is far less stress. Not too worried about that.
This however requires more thought and some time spent with my nose buried in a wiring diagram.
This light should come on when the fluid is low or if any front pad is worn out. Also lights when the ignition is turned on - should extinguish once the engine starts (well when the alternator starts charging actually). Mine currently flickers continually and lights solidly when the brakes are applied, so there's a short somewhere.
The pad wear sensors appear fine and the pads have a good 1/3" of friction material on them. No the fluid isn't low either and the float is floating. Hmm...time to have a think.
Some folks have given me a couple of garages who should be able to do a test on the van so will give them a shout tomorrow.
Still finding this quite nice to work on though. The fasteners are all good quality and most things are nice and chunky, *usually* easy enough to get at too. There are exceptions of course too...see offside front indicator swap which requires you to remove the headlight - which requires you to remove the radiator grill.
Have to admit to being hugely impressed by this tiny little jack.
Two aspects. Firstly is that it lifted something the size and weight of this van effortlessly. Secondly in that it's cleverly designed so it slots securely around the suspension leaf (or axle tube at the rear). This also makes the jacking process far less unnerving as you don't need to lift the thing feet into the air - literally about an inch has the tyre clear of the ground.
Very glad that I bought the rattle gun...very much doubt I'd have got these wheel nuts out without it...to say they were tight would be a massive understatement.
It's pleasing how substantial everything on this is when you're used to working on cars. Nice to see the discs are obviously pretty decent, no lip at all.
Let's have a look then and see how the calipers come apart to get the pads out...wait a second...
...I thought we were dealing with a worn out set of pads. Not a set that's barely used.
Oh well, got a good opportunity to check things over while the wheel is off. Grease gun was brought in and the kingpin given a good shot of grease (yes I did wipe the excess off before I put the wheel back on).
Annoyingly I almost immediately spotted more MOT work though. The track rod end ball joint dust cover is knackered.
That's one substantial drop link!
Everything else over this side looks okay to me. Bit of rust on the brake hose ferrules, but they've got another year or two in them I reckon. Hoses themselves seem nice and supple still with no perishing. Can't see anything awry with the wiring to the pad wear sensors in that the wheel arch.
Have the hub a good brush down and painted the wheel surface with copper grease as per my usual practice and put things back together. Then on to the offside wheel.
I was slightly worried given the new pads in the nearside but the perpetually flickering brake light on the dash that I would find that someone had only changed the pads on one wheel (wouldn't be the first time I have found that!).
Thank goodness for that!
Gave the kingpin on this side a good dose of grease while I was there too. This is something which is often neglected on these old Mercs. The steering should be lovely and light once you're on the move (especially if it's got the correct tyres on) though it's inevitably fairly weighty when parking! Annoying to hear of people having to do major work due to wear in there for the sake of a 30 second bit of service work!
Hey look...another stuffed track rod end.
Not too bothered about those as track rod ends are hardly going to break the bank. The other split dust cover however is on the steering linkage from the steering box (I believe drag link is the correct term?) which is rather more annoying as I expect this is rather more expensive.
This one I actually knew about beforehand so not a huge surprise. There's a little bit of play in one of the joints as you can hear something very faintly going "dunk dunk dunk..." when you rock the steering. Can't see where it's coming from but given where that is it's a prime candidate. Don't *think* it's one of the track rod ends as I can't feel anything in the way of movement at the wheels.
Looks like my local Mercedes dealer will be making some money out of me tomorrow then. Yes I could probably find stuff a bit cheaper on eBay (etc) but the parts desk at our dealer has been really helpful so far. Plus Mercedes seem to have really good heritage support and I'm more than willing to pay a few quid extra to show that is owners appreciate that.
Depending on how time goes I might fit those things myself...though I'd rather get the garage to. I generally avoid steering and suspension work if I have any choice these days. I've played the "the ball joint appears to have been welded in place and I've immobilised the car trying to get it out" game enough times to learn that throwing it at someone with a four post lift, serious ball joint splitters and oxy-acytaline on hand is far less stress. Not too worried about that.
This however requires more thought and some time spent with my nose buried in a wiring diagram.
This light should come on when the fluid is low or if any front pad is worn out. Also lights when the ignition is turned on - should extinguish once the engine starts (well when the alternator starts charging actually). Mine currently flickers continually and lights solidly when the brakes are applied, so there's a short somewhere.
The pad wear sensors appear fine and the pads have a good 1/3" of friction material on them. No the fluid isn't low either and the float is floating. Hmm...time to have a think.
Some folks have given me a couple of garages who should be able to do a test on the van so will give them a shout tomorrow.
Still finding this quite nice to work on though. The fasteners are all good quality and most things are nice and chunky, *usually* easy enough to get at too. There are exceptions of course too...see offside front indicator swap which requires you to remove the headlight - which requires you to remove the radiator grill.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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- (Donor 2020)
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
You don't need to replace the track rod ends etc. for those rubbers Zel, provided the ends are good just replace the boots. Here's an example.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/262484783326
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/262484783326
Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. (Albert Einstein)
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- Donor 2024
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
I am aware of that, the issue I've found though is that more often than not by the time I've got a ball joint that's been in place for this long apart so the rubber can be changed I've wrecked the joint anyway. That's the bit of the job which is 90% of the work anyway, so if going that far anyhow it just seems to make sense to me to change the joint. Especially where they're not massively expensive.
There is definitely a little play in at least one of them too, even though I'm not totally sure which one yet.
There is definitely a little play in at least one of them too, even though I'm not totally sure which one yet.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Have you got a scissor type splitter, Zel? They're much better than the hammer in ones - never had a fail yet (have mashed my hand though - always make sure you haven't got your fingers between the spanner and body work so that when it lets go you don't whack yourself!). Looking at the state of those nuts, I'd not be surprised if some angle grinder action is required - although at least they are not nylocks! You could save a bit of garage time by freeing off the split pin, and getting the nut going...
Richard W
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
Had a closer look and those three ball joints do all need changing. The one on the drag link and the nearside TRE have a little play in and the offside TRE feels notchy when it moves (that will be the creak from the steering then).
I may have cheated somewhat.
The track rod ends are £48 apiece. Or you can get the entire steering tie rod with both of the ends for £137 - given how well the TREs look to have "become one" with the tie rod just changing it as one assembly is probably going to save me time.
Same story with the drag link - the whole assembly was less than an hour's labour more than the worn out bits...no brainer to me. Still left me with a £316 bill for parts mind you...but they should hopefully last another 29 years, there's nothing to suggest these parts have ever been changed before.
I do have a scissor type ball joint splitter, and the more I'm looking at this the more I think I might give it a bash. Access is so much better than I'm used to on a car for one - and the fact that I'm just replacing stuff rather than trying to be careful not to wreck threads in stuff makes things easier. I'll give the nuts the opportunity to come undone, but I'm not wasting time. They don't move on the first try, it's grinder time.
Hopefully get it in for an MOT tomorrow/Thursday to see if there's anything else I need to do, before I go and immobilise it by taking half the steering system to bits. Just praying that there's no more welding needed or any hope of getting this done in time for next Thursday probably go totally out the window.
I may have cheated somewhat.
The track rod ends are £48 apiece. Or you can get the entire steering tie rod with both of the ends for £137 - given how well the TREs look to have "become one" with the tie rod just changing it as one assembly is probably going to save me time.
Same story with the drag link - the whole assembly was less than an hour's labour more than the worn out bits...no brainer to me. Still left me with a £316 bill for parts mind you...but they should hopefully last another 29 years, there's nothing to suggest these parts have ever been changed before.
I do have a scissor type ball joint splitter, and the more I'm looking at this the more I think I might give it a bash. Access is so much better than I'm used to on a car for one - and the fact that I'm just replacing stuff rather than trying to be careful not to wreck threads in stuff makes things easier. I'll give the nuts the opportunity to come undone, but I'm not wasting time. They don't move on the first try, it's grinder time.
Hopefully get it in for an MOT tomorrow/Thursday to see if there's anything else I need to do, before I go and immobilise it by taking half the steering system to bits. Just praying that there's no more welding needed or any hope of getting this done in time for next Thursday probably go totally out the window.
Current fleet:
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
07 Volvo V70 SE D5, 88 Renault 25 Monaco, 85 Sinclair C5, 84 Trabant 601S, 75 Rover 3500, 73 AC Model 70.
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog - Xantia Activa, Lada Riva, Sinclair C5, Mercedes 208D, AC Model 70.
It'll be worth working on the nuts to at least back them off a couple of threads, as otherwise there will nothing for the splitter to lean on... My guess is they will come off if you can get the split pins out (or drill them out), give them a good wire brushing, hit them with some heat, and then apply the rattle gun!
Richard W