Picasso Turbo Replacement (Not EGR)

[tomthered]

The lights not on any more Richard, its been off for two days up to now, just not got top end power, you know like when you put your foot down and it will accelerate at the top end? I assume the light being off means the engine is not in limp mode?

[citronut]

your cars birth certificate i sent you over on the CCC forum states

"PARTICLE FILTER WITHOUT PARTICLE FILTER"

it also states your car is an SX not an LX

the EGR is at the rear gear box end of the cylinder head as in the drawing you posted on the CCC forum

[tomthered]

Not sure what you mean Malcolm, I have only posted on here and the only link I have posted about this is on here. On the V5 it says its an Exclusive 92 so not sure what you mean by SX and LX, I used to have that on my older Picasso which was a 2001 model.

[citronut]

whoooops
just got a bit

wrong post sorry

[Xantidote]

just got a bit

Malcom's still enjoying Xmas methinks (and why not)

[tomthered]

Phew had me worried then, hope it was decent stuff!!

[citronut]

just got a bit

Malcom's still enjoying Xmas methinks (and why not)

no no not at all i dont follow all the other sheep ( bleet bleet bah bah ), just got a bit confused/mixed up between this thread and another

[tomthered]

Quick update, Will has kindly looked at the car, diagnostics run and discovered the Turbo is knackered, so needs a new one. he tells me there is a set procedure for doing this and from what I can remember its a drain oil and change filter. Clean out the rubber pipe from the bottom of the Turbo with petrol to ensure no crap. Remove a gauze filter from a tube on the top. Change coolant put Antifreeze in, especially this weather. Drive in for 500-1000 miles then change oil and oil filter again. Is there anything else I need to do guys?

[RichardW]

Bugger Tom.... not the best time of the year (been there done that, I did it in Jan this year!). I've written it somewhere, but here goes again... Yours will be a bit easier as no DPF, so no pipes, so it might be possible to remove the heat shield without removing the radiator, but be prepared to do it!

Remove the heat shield (one bolt behind the alternator is awkward!) - on DPF cars, there is not enough room to do this with the rad in place, so it has to be removed.
Remove the two nuts holding the the cat on, disconnect the two exhaust clamps top and bottom (undo the bolt, then stick a big screwdriver in the clamp and twist it to release it), drop the cat out the bottom. Buy a pair of the proper pliers to make this easier!!!
Remove the oil feed pipe, unbolt the turbo (you need an e-spline socket ), disconnect the vac pipe, wiggle the oil return pipe off and lift the turbo out.

Turbo can be rebuilt DIY with a new core from e-bay for about £120. Check that the VVT mech is free, and springs back easily.

Before refitting, drop the sump (easy enough, the two long studs at either can be unscrewed with an e4 socket, and this will pull the sump off (no gasket, uses RTV sealant), clean it out. Drop the oil pick up, and clean it out - following repeat occurrences of blockage, remove the screener in the bottom. Remove the vac pump (under the air pipe at the NS of the engine). check for crud in the oil inlet filter, and evidence of bits coming out into the cam hole in the head. If at all suspect, remove the cover and inspect internals, and replace pump if in doubt. Change the oil filter, refit it all. Make sure you remove the filter in the end of the oil feed bottom banjo (it's very small!) - this alone will ensure you never have a repeat of turbo troubles (you may run out of oil pressure, but that's another story....!). Put it on a diet of 5k oil changes and all should be OK....

[tomthered]

Richard - I have just spoken to Citroen when pricing the Oil Feed pipe and they said they replace the banjo bolts and washers. What are they for or is it just a precaution and is it worth doing? What pliers are you referring to and what are they for, removing the Cat? What is an E spline socket and an "e4 socket". As the Oil Feed pipe is £33 is it worth cleaning or is it best replaced?

It would be my son in law who does this, if possible. He has the snap on tools and other stuff so I will ask him but thought I would ask here first. Just wanted to make sure I have everything before it is started. I assume its a couple of hours job, or am I too optimistic? Have already purchased a turbo replacement so no need for a cartridge replacement (don't know whether I fancied that anyway). As for the small filter, When Will showed me it seemed to be on the top on the right of the Turbo, I am assuming that is not the case. Also if the sump is removed what is RTV sealant?

I am sure he said the other day he has replaced one of the on a Ford (not sure what model) and he said it was easy. I don't know whether he went through all this procedure to do it so will check. Also I will definitely be changing the oil changes to 6000 at the most from now on.

The heat shield appears to have three Allen Kay type bolts on the top, I assume there are more? Sorry for not knowing this lot, as you can see I am not an expert!

Below is the one I ordered, which comes with some Gaskets. Do I need anything else? Citroen quoted me £6 per banjo bolt so can I buy them elsewhere? Oh one last thing, Will told me to drain and replace the coolant water, whats the reason behind this? Apologies for all the questions.



Edit: fixed the picture for you Tom...RW

[Hell Razor5543]

There is a replacement design of banjo bolt, with a better oil filter (but people still remove the filter). The original filter is about the size of a finger nail, while the new one is tubular, and extends most of the length of the bolt.

[tomthered]

James where would I get that from or is it it the one Citroen supply and how many do I need? Also when pricing up it sounds like the banjo bolts are something to do with the oil supply pipe, is that correct? Do they hold it in at either end so there are two? I am learning very fast!!

EDIT:-- Citroen in Sale (M33) redirected me to Parts NorthWest in Trafford Park near Bowlers and they quoted £33 inc Vat for the oil supply pipe and £6 each for the two banjo bolts and £1 each for the washers (two on each bolt), so total £49. Another Citroen quoted me nearer £40 for the pipe and Eurocarparts quoted £39. I now know what the Banjo bolts are !!

Now I am assuming I will need to prime the new oil supply with oil before fitting?

[Hell Razor5543]

I cannot help with prices or part numbers. I recall the two bolts as another member posted photos of them up when discussing the 1.6 engine. If you look on page 3 of the following link you will find photos of the old design and new design of banjo bolt (and filters);

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... =3&t=46915" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[RichardW]

It's probably worth replacing the washers on the bottom banjo bolt as this is inaccessible when the cat is back on - and you don't want it to leak! I wouldn't replace the banjo bolts - as long as they are clean (I suspect they will be), ditto the oil feed pipe - just blow it out with an air line. The filter is in the bottom banjo bolt which is screwed into the front face of the block behind the cat - remove it, and don't re-fit one, even the revised type. E-spline is like an inverse Torx bolt - the bolt has a proud hex, and the socket a torx indent, the number refers to the size (4 is small!) (eg sockets. Pliers are for removing the spring clamps on the exhaust, without they're a right PITA: pliers. RTV is silicone sealant - there is no gasket on the sump, so all the sealant needs to be scraped off, and new applied (eg RTV. There are 7 bolts on the heat shield in total I think, 3 across the top, and 2 down each side. The one just above the alternator is awkward to get at! You need to remove the turbo outlet pipe as well. You only need to replace the coolant if you have to remove the rad - if you can get the heat shield off without, then no need to replace the coolant.

2 hours will be pushing it.... You might get the turbo on and off in 2 hours, but you won't do the sump as well in that time, and longer if you have to take the rad out and then bleed the cooling system as well. More like 4-6....

[tomthered]

Cheers Richard for that info. Have bought the oil supply pipe anyway and new banjo bolts, thought it was false economy and dont want any issues. Do I just punch the filters out with a screwdriver and do I do it to both, top and bottom? I can see one in each bolt. Will buy some sealant how much you think I will need without scrimping, want to have plenty for him to go at, its better to be safe than sorry. I will ask him about pliers, I am sure he will have something.