Sudden failure of CV joint

Post by **Peter.N.** » 25 Dec 2014, 14:45

I concur - does make it a little difficult what advice to give.

Peter

Post by **RichardW** » 03 Jan 2015, 16:34

Set off to replace it this afternoon... Citronut was right, the boot has been off, as it is secured with a jubilee and cable tie, and when opened just a load of very greasy water ran out

Got the joint knocked off OK, then decided to change the clip, since i had a new one....mistake, I think! The new clip is slightly too big to go in the groove in the shaft, so when i tried to drive the new joint on, it just mangled the clip. Tried to refit the old clip, but that too is now a bit bent, and just pulls along the shaft when you try to drive the joint back on. So, got to get a new clip (I thought about putting it together without, but then realised that was probably not a good idea, as there may well be enough slack in the shaft to pull the splines out and lose drive) - but any tips on how to get it on the shaft without bending it, and then getting the joint to go over it? I tried a jubilee clip around it (seen in a you tube vid....!) but the spider just pushes it off before the splines get anywhere near the clip, so rendering it of no use.

sparksie · Post by **sparksie** » 03 Jan 2015, 19:06

You have my sympathy.
Usually they don't do that, but every now and then you get one that won't play by the rules.
Put the joint in the vice, with good light shining into it, so you can see the clip as you push the shaft in.
You may need an assistant, or you might manage alone if you're ambidextrous.
You need to maintain gentle pressure on the shaft, while teasing the clip into its' groove, using something like a small screwdriver.
If working with an assistant, whoever is wielding the screwdriver needs to be careful. The shaft will suddenly drop into place when the clip is touched in the right place and it could surprise them.
It may be possible to re-shape the old clip, as long as you haven't partially cut it. As long as the clip is only bent out of shape, not scarred/scored, it will probably be safe to carefully re-shape and re-use. Not ideal, obviously, but if you can't get a replacement...
If it IS marked, then don't risk re-using it. It may stress fracture and cause premature failure of the new joint, possibly even causing an accident when the joint suddenly seizes up.
Good luck with it.

old-un77 · Post by **old-un77** » 03 Jan 2015, 19:48

sorry just re read the post.......so a jubilee clip is out.....no chance of a two piece tubular sleeve? held with a jubilee? enough to hold the clip in situ......

I'll get me 'at!

bye Bob

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 03 Jan 2015, 22:03

i use two pairs of side cutters to grip and re/shape/profile distorted snap rings,
hold the snap ring about half way around with one pair of side cutters, whilst using the other pair to grip and re/shape ( bend the tip of the snap ring inwards ) each end of the snap ring,

the end result is to get the two ends of the snap ring bent inwards so they stay in the groove,

if it still tries to lift out just hold the CV joint against it whilst pressing the snap ring into the groove with a small screw driver, in doing this the idea is to put enough pressure on the CV joint to stop the snap ring raising back out of the grove whilst you press it into the groove a bit at a time all the way round the snap ring

Post by **RichardW** » 04 Jan 2015, 22:23

Got it back on... it would appear that brute force and ignorance is not the best way of getting it on....

Straightened the clip out, got a cable tie round it, pushed the joint on, a slight push on one end of the clip that was sticking up, and it slid home easily with light hand pressure

Noise now gone

Frustratingly there isn't enough downwards movement available in the lower arm to get the ball joint taper in and out. Got it out by jacking the the hub up, but couldn't make this work to get it back in as it wasn't in the right place when jacked up, so I had to split the hub carrier off the strut and put the taper in first, then re-engage the strut bolts. All adds to the job time! Although the clip was broken on the joint on the other side, the boot was still well attached to the joint, and it only had grease in it (rather than water!), so with more grease and new clip hopeful that the joint will be OK, and a repeat performance will not be required in a few months.... Needs a new TRE for MOT though, as the boot is knackered

Post by **myglaren** » 04 Jan 2015, 22:33

Congratulations Richard. They can be a bit of a bugger can't they?
My GS used to eat driveshafts like they were going out of fashion. Usually half an hours job to change but dome of them...

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 05 Jan 2015, 08:36

good to hear you beat it into submission Richard,

the reason you had fun and games disconnecting and reconnecting the swivel pin i think is the opposite wheel was on the gronud,

if you didnt you need both wheels off the ground

Post by **RichardW** » 05 Jan 2015, 09:00

Nope, both wheels off the ground - there just doesn't appear to be enough downwards movement in the arm before it fouls the subframe to disengage the pin - even with a long lever under the subframe

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 05 Jan 2015, 12:56

musterd bin some hydraulic pressure in the front struts still then

,
i usually just lift the strut/hub up out and back in with by bare hands

sparksie · Post by **sparksie** » 06 Jan 2015, 21:32

citronut wrote:musterd bin some hydraulic pressure in the front struts still then ,
i usually just lift the strut/hub up out and back in with by bare hands

Indeed!
When I did the bushes, there was plenty of room to separate that. I even commented at the time, what a surprisingly well thought out design it was, having discovered it was designed to accommodate a 10 ton hydraulic puller in lieu of a splitter.
Did you forget to put the suspension on low?

Post by **RichardW** » 06 Jan 2015, 21:35

I'm still struggling to find the suspension height control on this car....(307)

sparksie · Post by **sparksie** » 06 Jan 2015, 22:34

RichardW wrote:I'm still struggling to find the suspension height control on this car....(307)

Ooopsie...
I did read that a couple of days ago, but given that I read every post, when I have internet access, I'm going to forgive myself for forgetting!
Yes, you need to jack up the hub and it helps if you disconnect the ARB. Though in salty Britain, of course, that may not be an easy option, I suppose.
Glad you got it sorted.
307 is a nice little car and I for one have no problem with it in the Citroen room!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 07 Jan 2015, 08:31

RichardW wrote:I'm still struggling to find the suspension height control on this car....(307)

aaaah so there was still pressure in the suspenders then

Post by **RichardW** » 07 Jan 2015, 12:17

Amusingly

leaving it standing for 2 weeks over Christmas has caused the other front wheel bearing to throw in the towel

Still at least that will give me a chance to change the NS driveshaft oil seal that is weeping

Oh, and I still haven't figured out what's knocking in the rear suspension - maybe it's Malc's suspenders

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Sudden failure of CV joint

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