Elmas Xantia V6 and Musical Stuff

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 02 Dec 2014, 15:41

Elma, I now your plain with that union nut... I've been there a few times and had to resort to using a pair of long gripping pliers on it... A pair of these bad boys which I thoroughly recommend.

They will grip what's left of the hexagon and undo the hose. I find it best to flip the clip out of the way so the hose will come forward and be free to rotate. Then I use the pliers to hold the hexagon union nut still and another pair of locking pliers to undo the hose from it...

The pipes themselves travel to the ABS block and I believe they are conventional flares both ends...

If you are careful however the hexagons, although rounded, will be good to go again... Just do them up again with the same locking pliers...

Unread post by **elma** » 02 Dec 2014, 19:12

Thanks Jim, I think I can see that working. Bending the clip is critical here I think, looking at it without that in mind I could not see a way. I put my first full tank in the Xantia today so will be keeping a rolling MPG tally, could be scary.

I've ordered a set of those grips. My Dad has some similar ones and you're right, they are ideal. The second set you referred to, did you mean mole grips? Mine are a bit useless, I'll upgrade them if you did. Been meaning to for a while but not really needed to.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 02 Dec 2014, 20:26

You can spin the clip almost enough and then bend it just enough to free the flexi from its mounting plate so that it can be undone... It is easy to straighten out again.

Yes, a good old pair of Mole grips are fine for the flexi side but do use the Bahco grips on the rigid pipe union.

My Bahco grips have got me out of a lot of tight spots over the years. One of the most valuable tool in my kit. ..

Unread post by **elma** » 03 Dec 2014, 15:37

Gearbox oil changed at 105,175miles. Went ok, not difficult really. The drain plug was 21mm and the fill/level plug 19mm. I used a 16mm Cu washer but a 15mm may have been a better fit. I will be doing the job again in a month, the old oil was dirty for 100k.
21mm Drain plug on left

19mm Filler/Level plug next to N/S driveshaft

Also my timing belt kit has just arrived. I'm nipping out to get coolant, 11mm half moon spanner, M8 bolts and 6mm threaded bar. I'll be off to play afterwards, I'd like the whole day to mess with the cambelt. ETA on strut tops is the 8th.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Dec 2014, 16:03

Excellent

Unread post by **elma** » 03 Dec 2014, 17:46

Wow that was hard work. Took me 2hours to get 4 x M8 Bolts, a set of half moon spanners, a new plug for the kitchen sink, dog biscuits and plip batteries.

Car locks and unlocks on the button now, very pleased. Screwfix on the other hand I'm slightly unimpressed with. I checked stock online and they reckoned they had my 11mm spanner and some M8 bolts in stock. When I got to the store they didn't, apparently the parts are special order only which is fine. Tim, the guy on the counter, then went on to say that he didn't know where I was checking but an idiot could do it and then showed me the website where it clearly said they were in stock. I pointed out what it said and he went all angry, I left and won't be back. We could've easily ordered them for tomorrow and not been quite so rude.

So off to B&Q who no longer sell threaded bar or any M8 bolt longer than 25mm if you live in North Wales, not even worth looking for the spanner. Then local cheap hardware store, got a set of silver line half moon spanners for £8 and 4 M8x50 Bolts for £1.80 then, impulsively, plip batteries for 99p. This made me very happy as the local engineering factor was the last place on the list, now they are decent but the bolts would've been £2 each and a single spanner £10(it would've been a nice one though). Only things missing from my stuff are the coolant and the threaded bar. I reckon I can find something appropriate to lock the flywheel and I just don't care about coolant now, that trip should've been half an hour.

Unread post by **elma** » 03 Dec 2014, 18:28

Quite soon after the last post. I'm just having a little study of the cambelt job. I've done it before on an XUD9A, which is basically the same, but it was RWD so access was a lot easier. Anyway this is what I'm thinking at the moment.

1. Take car for a drive, get it warm.
2. Crack off crankshaft nut and drain coolant also remove anything in the way, e.g. airpipes.
3. Remove starter motor (I know it's optional but I want to see what I'm doing)
4. Make locking tool from 7mm tube I found lying about and lock flywheel.
5. Remove covers and possibly jack up engine at this point (undoing top mount at the same time)
6. Lock up diesel pump and cam.
7. Remove old belt, tensioners and water pump.
8. Put new bits on and put back together bearing in mind torque, tension and threadlock.
9. Unlock engine and turn by hand several times.
10.Replace covers, put engine mount back together and refill coolant.

I think I'm all ready. I have my socket set, jack, axle stands, new half moon spanners, threadlock and locking kit. Any advice before I get stuck in please?

Unread post by **Hell Razor5543** » 03 Dec 2014, 18:40

Make sure your assistant (you do have an assistant, don't you?) knows how you like your cuppa, and to make it when required!

Actually I have thought of something that might delay you. I have been told that it is a very good idea to do the auxiliary belt (and related bits) at the same time, as the auxiliary belt has to come off as well.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Dec 2014, 18:47

Elma, good work [emoji2] always a good idea to plan the job out fully.

I use a length of kunifer brake pipe for locking the flywheel. It's nicely bendy and that helps to find the hole behind the starter. The hole is hard to find initially but once you know where it is there's no need to remove the starter motor.

Unread post by **elma** » 03 Dec 2014, 19:20

Hell Razor5543 wrote:Make sure your assistant (you do have an assistant, don't you?) knows how you like your cuppa, and to make it when required!

Actually I have thought of something that might delay you. I have been told that it is a very good idea to do the auxiliary belt (and related bits) at the same time, as the auxiliary belt has to come off as well.

Unfortunately no assistant for me, maybe one day, I have a well trained coffee machine though. I hear you on the aux belt, too many things to buy this month though so it's got to wait. £10 I know, but thats my Secret Santa at work and the belts only 90% worn. The assistant thing did concern me but I managed the tensioners on the LDV myself and I have a good stick to hold the brakes on so should be ok.

CitroJim wrote:Elma, good work [emoji2] always a good idea to plan the job out fully.

I use a length of kunifer brake pipe for locking the flywheel. It's nicely bendy and that helps to find the hole behind the starter. The hole is hard to find initially but once you know where it is there's no need to remove the starter motor.

I read about your locking tool doing my research earlier. I do like the idea, only thing is though I'm not paying for that bit and I have no brake pipe. I am going for the removal option for the starter as moving the engine around 90Degrees has disorientated me awfully. I think I'd be ok with it on but it will get a better clean off anyhow

Unread post by **elma** » 04 Dec 2014, 18:17

Timing belt is going ok. The covers are all off, 11mm back bolt wasn't a problem with the pipes off at all. Crank shaft nut is loosened and the alternator belt is off. The only nuisance at the moment is that one of the starter motor bolts, hex headed one, is knackered. I'll be doing my best to extract it tomorrow for a while then trying to find the flywheel locking hole blind if I don't succeed. The old belt is actually in decent condition compared to what I thought, not cracked or dry at all.

Does anyone have a good picture with the starter motor removed to give me a better idea where to look? I had a feel but nothing came to light.

Unread post by **elma** » 04 Dec 2014, 19:07

Just found the timing hole so no need to remove the starter motor now. I went out with my torch and a drill bit to have a poke, found it really quickly. Going to call it a night I think the worst bits are over with now.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 04 Dec 2014, 19:38

elma wrote:Just found the timing hole so no need to remove the starter motor now.

no need to remove the marter stoter elma,

just use a long length of kunifer brake pipe , bend it in the right places so you can point it in the right direction from underneath and up behind the marter stoter

as you can see the hole in the crank case looking up behind the start and from underneath

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 04 Dec 2014, 19:40

whoooops ignore my last post, i miss read your last one

Unread post by **elma** » 04 Dec 2014, 19:45

Thanks though, appreciate the input. This Kunifer keeps coming up, have to check it out sometime.

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