Simon's new Xantia V6 and Leaf blog

Tell us your ongoing tales and experiences with your French car here. Post pictures of your car here as well.
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Mandrake
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by Mandrake »

Thanks everyone for all the well wishes, on the baby front everything is going fine. :) He'll be a month old on Sunday, how time flies...to those wondering yes he's a good sleeper, we're now getting 3-4 hours at a stretch out of him at night, so can't complain really! =D> Back to work on Monday, not looking forward to that after 4 weeks off! :twisted:

On the car front I've managed to get the first real jobs this year done on the car...

I noticed recently that the rear wiper wasn't wiping the rear window very well, when I had a look at it I discovered the wiping part of the rubber had all but ripped away from from it's base. :-D A trip to halfords was a bit disappointing - their in store parts lookup didn't list any rear wiper blade type for a Xantia, and they didn't seem to have the rubbers on their own to cut to length either...so I found one of their single blades that was the right length and looked a fairly close match.

When I tried to fit it to the car I ran into a snag - with it clipped in place the far end of the blade wouldn't rest on the glass because the near side frame was snagging on the water spray nozzle that is mounted on the wiper arm. #-o Looking at the original blade holder it's of an asymmetrical design where the side nearest the spray nozzle is set back by about an extra 5mm. Whoops. Luckily I managed to transfer the blade to the old holder and even though it was a bit of a snug fit it seems to do the trick.

The gearbox has also had an oil change yesterday - since I've had the car it's had a "hot flush" about a year ago but I wasn't sure about the oil they used, (no proper type was given on the invoice just a very generic name) and its changes have been a little bit rougher/ more abrupt than I would have liked in the last 6 months or so, making me wonder if the correct grade of oil had been used or not. Unlike the old V6 whose gearbox was overheating this one is not, (checked it again on the Lexia yesterday) so burnt oil doesn't seem to be the cause.

I've done 5000 miles since the hot flush so thought it was time for a manual change. The oil that came out was quite dirty but not burnt and didn't seem to have any particles. So far I think the gear changes are a little bit smoother, of course a single oil change like this only dilutes the previous oil by 50%, so a single change by itself won't do a lot. I may do another change in a few months time depending on the results and how the gear changes feel over the next few months.

While I was doing the oil change I discovered something I didn't want to find... #-o

Image

Yes, a pinhole in the front exhaust downpipe. :evil: The strange thing is that there is no chuffing through the hole and I can't feel anything coming out of it with my finger - poking a small probe through the hole doesn't go right through either - it appears that the pipe may be double skinned (?) and the hole is only in the outer skin, perhaps due to condensation rust between the layers ?

Any advice on how to get this fixed ? How feasible is it to get a patch welded over it, and who these days would consider doing it when everyone wants to be a parts changer that only fits new pipes ? I imagine this pipe is now in the unobtanium NFP category, and was probably crazy expensive even when it wasn't ? (And probably a complete ballache to fit when all the fittings are old and rusty)

The MOT is due at the end of July so not much time to sort it out when I also have tyres and balljoints to do before then... :? Although it wouldn't fail now due to not actually leaking my experience of exhaust holes is that once they appear they grow very rapidly, so it will probably burn through by MOT time if left unattended... :(
Simon

2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
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Stickyfinger
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by Stickyfinger »

You are correct, the pipe is NFP from Citroen
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Alasdair
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by elma »

Which of those pipes is the one with the hole?
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Stickyfinger
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by Stickyfinger »

12

I would take it to an exhaust specialists and get a section let into it or replaced with SS

Looks like its taken a battering
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by elma »

100 Euros for a new one
It does look a bit battered.
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CitroJim
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by CitroJim »

Great to hear all is well on the baby front Simon :D

The front pipe is double-skinned at the point where it's looking crusty. They can respond well to a small weld repair...

As for the rare S1 wiper, I always rebuild mine rather than replace wholesale.. Just get another similar length blade and nick the rubber out of it and do a little transplant...
Jim

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Stickyfinger
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by Stickyfinger »

Did not know it was doubled skinned, something new every day :), now I see in the drawing. Why would that be ?
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CitroJim
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

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Stickyfinger wrote:Did not know it was doubled skinned, something new every day :), now I see in the drawing. Why would that be ?
No idea at all....
Jim

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RichardW
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

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Mandrake wrote:Any advice on how to get this fixed ? How feasible is it to get a patch welded over it, and who these days would consider doing it when everyone wants to be a parts changer that only fits new pipes ?

And

The MOT is due at the end of July so not much time to sort it out when I also have tyres and balljoints to do before then... :?
Sounds like a long day round at mine :-D I can patch that exhaust - it might be possible just to fill it with MIG wire, but it would be better with a patch on it. Might have to be 'lobster backed' to go over the curve, but I do have a piece of ex-HDi exhaust that might yield a suitable curve - although I think have thrown away now the pipe off your old V6 :rofl2: That clamp is FUBAR though and will need to be cut off - and I imagine the one on the other end is in the same state. And access to that one might be, er, interesting..... :roll: Actually exhausts are nice and thick - ideal fodder for welding learners - I'll just give you the torch and you can get on with it while I drink tea!!
Richard W
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xantia_v6
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by xantia_v6 »

The original exhaust clamp bolts are stainless, and despite looking impossible, I have found them always possible to undo.

The other end of that pipe is accessed via the right hand wheel arch. I have changed one, but it is not easy. I would advise patching in place if feasible.
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CitroJim
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

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xantia_v6 wrote:The original exhaust clamp bolts are stainless, and despite looking impossible, I have found them always possible to undo.
Ditto.. Plus Gas is your friend, along with a wire brush...

The other clamp being accessible from the wheelarch is only true if the clamp is orientated in the right way...
Jim

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Mandrake
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

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RichardW wrote: Sounds like a long day round at mine :-D I can patch that exhaust - it might be possible just to fill it with MIG wire, but it would be better with a patch on it. Might have to be 'lobster backed' to go over the curve, but I do have a piece of ex-HDi exhaust that might yield a suitable curve - although I think have thrown away now the pipe off your old V6 :rofl2: That clamp is FUBAR though and will need to be cut off - and I imagine the one on the other end is in the same state. And access to that one might be, er, interesting..... :roll: Actually exhausts are nice and thick - ideal fodder for welding learners - I'll just give you the torch and you can get on with it while I drink tea!!
Hi Richard,

Are you suggesting that the entire pipe needs to be removed to do the welding, or just that the front clamp needs to be removed and later replaced to drop it down and give it slightly more access ? Looks like the clamp at both ends is the same 66mm clamp used in front of the rear back box - and is still available. It might be prudent for me to pick up a couple of new clamps from Citroen before embarking on the job.

Does anyone know if a visible hole is an MOT fail, or does it actually have to be leaking to be a fail ? It's still not leaking even after a couple of hundred mile road trip a few days ago... I'm wondering whether I should concentrate on the dreaded right lower balljoint first (and track rod end and droplinks) and only do the exhaust repair after a successful MOT or an MOT fail on the exhaust ?

The clatter from the front right suspension is getting worse and is evident quite a lot of the time during driving now, (pretty much any low speed right hand bend with potholes will trigger it) I also think the front right brake calliper may be intermittently sticking. #-o

I've suspected an intermittently sticking brake calliper for a while now for a few reasons -

1) A couple of times over a year ago I've smelt a little bit of burning brake smell from the front after a leisurely journey on the motorway where no hard braking was done that would have warranted any brake smell. I haven't noticed it in the last year though.

2) Sometimes when I start the car up in the morning and go to reverse after releasing the hand brake the front right brake seems to stick slightly then "let go" with a slight creak as I start to reverse. The hand brake cables are both new, replaced by me about a year ago so it won't be seizing hand brake cables, and to my knowledge they are adjusted with the correct 1.5mm of slack, so any brake binding isn't going to be due to a seizing or maladjusted handbrake cable.

3) The car occasionally has its "off days" where the acceleration and performance doesn't seem to be quite what it should be. I have sometimes noticed during these "off days" that the brakes also feel a bit "dead" and lacking in the sharp response they usually have. EG I have to give them a good push rather than them being super sensitive. My suspicion is that the calliper(s) at the front (maybe both, maybe just the right hand one) sometimes stick just enough to cause the pads to get glazed from the constant light rubbing, and in the process also cause enough drag to mute the throttle response of the engine as well. Sometimes after pumping the brakes hard a few times the problem goes away.

4) Just in the last few weeks I've done a couple of deliberate, hard high speed emergency stops (in a safe area naturally) and while the brakes pulled the car up very well both times I noticed that after doing this I was hearing an odd "rubbing" noise from the front right hub area that faded away after a couple of minutes driving. So I also suspect that the calliper is sticking on slightly after this emergency stop and the pads are not completely releasing while the disc is hot.

In short, I think the front brake callipers (or at least the front right one) need lubricating and attention - a job that I've never actually needed to do on a Xantia before so I'm not familiar with.

If you're still game to "have a go" at the lower balljoint a second time (this time with the driveshaft taken out and the hub in a vice! :twisted: ) perhaps we do this, and while the hub is out see if we can lubricate and check the calliper slides. It also makes sense to replace the droplink and track rod end at the same time - both of which I plan to replace on both sides regardless of the lower balljoint anyway.

The exhaust can perhaps wait until after that or even after the MOT unless it fails on the MOT. Thoughts ?
Simon

2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
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CitroJim
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by CitroJim »

It would definitely be a good idea to have some new clamps on hand Simon...
Jim

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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by Hell Razor5543 »

On my last Xantia the return spring on the calliper handbrake lever was weak, and so, on a few occasions, this would cause the handbrake to bind (normally only slightly, but on a couple of occasions it was severe). I got a replacement calliper, problem solved (and fuel economy increased). I may still have calliper repair kits (not sure if they are suitable for your car), minus the little cone shaped slide seals that go on that slide to allow the callipers to move (bad description; I will have to work on it).
James
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Re: Simon's new Xantia V6 blog

Unread post by RichardW »

I was thinking of dropping the pipe off to patch it - it looks to me like it might need a patch on the top as well. However, if the other end is functionally inaccessible (and this pic below from Sticky of his spare V6 on the hook suggests it is!!!) then it will have to be done in place. Should be easy enough (no worse than patching the inner sill / floor on your last one!).

Image

MOT fail only on major leak and not 'adequately supported' - neither of which that is, so it should just warrant an advisory.

If the handbrake lever is sticking, then just drop the cable off and work the lever back and forwards whilst introducing it to some release spray followed by some spray grease - ultimately you may need to take the boot off the back and replace the mech inside; there used to be a repair kit for it, but no idea if you can get one now.
Richard W