Simon's new Xantia V6 and Leaf blog

[Mandrake]

More reassembly progress - enough to take the car for a test drive to get the steering wheel centring adjusted.

However in the process of driving in the heat I remembered the air conditioning doesn't seem to be working. I put the Lexia on the car and confirmed that there is zero drop in reported evaporator temperature when the compressor is running.

This is really frustrating and upsetting to be honest. It had a new compressor in March 2020 after the old one snapped a shaft and was re-gassed - all up around £500 and the aircon has worked brilliantly since then and as far as I know was still working fine before the car went off the road in December with the leaky heater matrix.

The confusing thing is that the compressor does still switch on, meaning the pressure switch is detecting sufficient pressure in the system, and the evaporator in the heater box assembly makes the usual "whoosh" noise when you first turn it on. You can also see plenty of activity in the site glass:



And yet zero cooling. Also the supply and return pipes to the compressor don't get hot or cold - they just stay at ambient.

What the heck could have happened ? Could sitting for 6 months without use have caused a problem ?

Could I have caused a leak when I pulled the aircon box forward a few inches in the cabin to free the heater box, which would have put some strain on the pipes where they enter through the firewall ? If so why is there still enough pressure to operate the pressure switch ?

Could I have damaged the evaporator ? I don't see how though ?

Is there any ducting that might have caused the airflow not to go through the evaporator or does it always pass through it ?

I'm mystified.

The problems and repair costs are racking up rapidly here to the point where I'm back to seriously wondering whether to throw the towel in. My other half keeps telling me I need to get rid of the car and it's becoming harder and harder to defend it to be honest. In the space of a couple of years it seems to have gone from a going concern to a "project car", one that hardly gets driven, has a lot of faults that need repairing, and will soon be legislated off the road in Glasgow. (Low emissions zones)

Between an excess payment for the windscreen replacement, possible re-gassing of the aircon, the new accumulator and anti-sink sphere, possibly some work on the rear brakes I'm probably looking at as much money as I bought the car for years ago.

I also have a right lower suspension arm to replace before the MOT as one of the bushes is stuffed, (although I do already have the arm) and I'm rapidly running out of time to do all these things before the MOT is due due to family commitments and weather.

For the first time with this car I feel like I'm paddling to try and stay afloat but there is just too much wrong with it and too much work that needs doing to get it back into a good working state. That's not even counting minor things like the fact that the radio doesn't work anymore.

[NewcastleFalcon]

You may not have spotted it Simon but today is Lanarkshire's day in the spotlight. If you have anything to contribute from local knowledge please do. In the meantime I have quoted your great efforts with the Leaf gearbox/transfer drive
in the thread with a few pictures. Let me know if you have any objections and I will edit it out.

Today's County in the Spotlight Lanarkshire
viewtopic.php?p=721239#p721239

Regards Neil

[Mandrake]

Does anyone know what kind of connector/fittings are on the back of the evaporator where they come through the firewall and how they are sealed ?

Should I be taking the LHM tank out again so I can inspect these fittings for signs of damage or leaks ?

[xantia_v6]

I can't remember what they look like, but the TXV sits at the input to the evaporator.

The symptoms that you have are indicating a blockage in the A/C circuit, maybe at the TXV . I had that once (on a different car) caused by the drier internally disintegrating and blocking the input screen on the TXV with desiccant.

[Mandrake]

I can't remember what they look like, but the TXV sits at the input to the evaporator.

The symptoms that you have are indicating a blockage in the A/C circuit, maybe at the TXV . I had that once (on a different car) caused by the drier internally disintegrating and blocking the input screen on the TXV with desiccant.

Hmm.

Now you mention it, when the compressor was replaced 2 years ago I noted that the manufacturers of the compressors state that the drier should be replaced with the compressor but it was NOT replaced, it's still on the original one.

Is it possible then that this has disintegrated with lack of use over 6 months ?

If that's the case, could a new drier be fitted and the TXV be flushed out somehow (reverse feeding some pressure ?) or would it have to be replaced ? If the TXV would have to be replaced I assume that's a major job, presumably dashboard out again and a job that nobody would be willing to do on the clock as chargeable work on a car this old.

So you don't think there's any chance the joints at the input of the evaporator have been twisted causing a temporary leak that let some pressure out ?

I really don't know what to do now - whether to pull the LHM tank out again to do an inspection before I do any further reassembly, or whether to forge ahead with the reassembly so I can get the window repaired. Problem is the car isn't that useful in summer without A/C especially on the longer trips it would get used for, so all this repair work I'm doing could be for nothing if the A/C can't be economically fixed.

And if the dashboard needs to come out again to repair the A/C that risks breaking the window a second time!

[xantia_v6]

The TXV can be replaced from the engine bay, I think. You really need the system diagnosed with pressure gauges to determine if there is a blockage or a failed compressor.

[Mandrake]

The TXV can be replaced from the engine bay, I think. You really need the system diagnosed with pressure gauges to determine if there is a blockage or a failed compressor.

Yeah,

I'm not trying to diagnose it any further myself, just trying to get an idea of what I'm in for if/when I get someone to look at it based on possible fault scenarios.

I would have thought the compressor itself would be unlikely though - it was brand new 2 years ago, and up until the car went off the road in December with the leaking heater matrix the air conditioning worked really well - too well in fact. It's not making any noises - it's still quiet but makes the normal gentle whirring noise it did when it was working properly unlike the old one which was making a hell of a racket when it failed.

If the valve can be replaced from the engine bay (albeit after removing both coolant header tank and LHM tank...grr) I guess I should just go ahead and complete the reassembly so I can get it booked in for the windscreen replacement.

After that I have a front lower right suspension arm to replace, the accumulator sphere and anti-sink sphere I've ordered to fit, and yet another go at the rear brakes to find out why they aren't working well. (After sitting for months they don't seem to be working at all, but they don't look rusty...)

After that, an MOT!

The same garage who does my MOT replaced the compressor and re-gassed it last time, I might ask them to hook it up to their machine to do a diagnosis after the MOT, but only if it otherwise passes the MOT, and getting the MOT is the priority.

[xantia_v6]

Do you know what brand of pads are currently fitted to the rear brakes?

[Zelandeth]

You need to get gauges on it to confirm A: what's in the system, and B: if the compressor is pumping before you can really make a judgement on what's up. It's not uncommon for older systems like this to have a tiny leak too small to show up on the short period decay test done during charging and as a result need a regas every few years. There can be enough gas left in there to still just about close the LP switch, but not enough to really let the system work properly.

Assuming it's the same as a fixed system you don't want to be seeing huge amounts of froth in the sight glass, that would tend to suggest the system is short on charge.

A blocked TXV (or "restricted metering device" to go by what the diagnostic manuals used to call it) will be pretty obvious by the high side pressure shooting up pretty much the moment the compressor kicks in, but with a lower than normal reading on the low side.

The fact you're still hearing a "whoosh" when the system engages tends to make me think you might well just be short on gas though.

I've got a set of gauges here you'd be welcome to borrow, but sadly am kind of a long way away! If anyone was heading down your way I'd be happy to have them relayed there. Imagine postage would sting a bit at the prices these days.

[Mandrake]

Well I finally got it all back together!

And I only have 6 screws and two bolts left over... Seriously, I do....

Two 10mm bolts with washers, and 6 black plastic self tapper screws, all of which presumably belong behind the dashboard somewhere, but not a clue where they go, I couldn't find any empty screw holes, everything is bolted down, no rattles when driving... oh well.

I sealed the scuttle to the windscreen using black silicone sealant rather than specialist window stuff with the intention of making it "easy" for the glass people to cut it off again without further damaging the scuttle, but I'm kind of sad the windscreen is cracked and the scuttle has to come off again because the sealant has actually done a really good job!

Out for a rather long test drive tonight nearly an hour on country roads and motorways to really get it hot and push the cooling system along - its first real drive since it went off the road 6 months ago. No leaks anywhere I could find, coolant temperature within normal range, coolant system holding pressure properly. The car feels great to drive - I've really missed driving it.

So it's now ready to contact autoglass to book in a window replacement. I've never had a windscreen changed before so I have no idea if they come to you or whether you go to them. I guess I'll find out.

There are quite a lot of small and medium repairs still needed to get everything ship shape though.

Before the MOT next month:

1) Windscreen replacement.

2) Rear brakes don't really seem to be working - the rear flies to the top bump stops when you brake hard as if there is air in the rear brake lines - again. I have the new accumulator sphere and anti-sink sphere coming this week so will fit them and bleed the system again before doing anything further with the rear brakes.

3) I still have a front right lower suspension arm that I bought a year ago to fit - the bushes on the arm are clonking quite badly when accelerating on right turns etc.

Hopefully that will be it for the MOT.

Other stuff after the MOT as time allows:

1) Radio still not turning on.

2) A couple of instrument panel lights behind the speedo have stopped working since refitting the instrument panel - drat. Does anyone know which bulbs it takes ? I presume on a Series 1 to get the panel in front of the instrument panel out the steering wheel has to come off to get the steering wheel cowling off ? I'm kicking myself that I didn't switch on the headlights and check the bulbs as I was reinserting the instrument panel. I doubt the bulbs are faulty. More likely the spring contacts need some tension adding.

3) Right rear tyre still has a relatively fast leak (about 10 psi per month) and all tyres need rebalancing - I've had a hell of a time getting them balanced in the past, I need to find somewhere new to try.

4) Rear suspension spheres are getting pretty stiff now, causing a bit of "pitching" of the car over undulations at speed. Westeron have them in stock for a pretty decent price so I think I'll get some after the MOT is out of the way. Fingers crossed I won't be needing a dowty seal repair on the rear cylinders afterwards...

5) Aircon needs fixing - hopefully re-gassing will get it by for another year or two. Now that I think about it while it was working in November it wouldn't switch on in the first 2 minutes after the engine was turned on suggesting pressure could be marginal. If I have to re-gas it every two years because it has a slight leak, so be it.

6) Engine sump pan needs resealing - seems to have a slight leak, more like a weep around the seam. I've tweaked the small bolts slightly previously and it didn't help. Is it a gasket or some kind of RTV sealant ? If I do the sump pan I may as well do an oil and filter change at the same time...

7) Aircon switch bulb faulty. Does anyone know what those crazy little bulbs inside the switches are with the long legs that are wrapped around posts ? Has anyone ever replaced one ? The colour filter is busted now, (it disintegrated into dust) so the colour will be wrong but as long as it's bright and easy to read I'll be happy. I suppose I could try to fit a small LED and a resistor - anyone tried that ?? What was the original colour for the aircon button light - green ?

8) Carpets will need to come out and be dried as I'm sure there will be water and/or coolant soaked into them after all the leaks. I am still noticing some fogging on the inside of the windscreen even though the matrix is not leaking anymore. I think there's probably still just a lot of moisture under the carpets.

[Mandrake]

Do you know what brand of pads are currently fitted to the rear brakes?

I've had a bit of a look through my emails but can't seem to find a receipt for the discs/pads and I'm not sure exactly when I changed them - a couple of years ago now.

I seem to recall they were a "good" brand though. I'd like to say they're Bosch but I can't remember for sure.

[Mandrake]

Do you know what brand of pads are currently fitted to the rear brakes?

I've had a bit of a look through my emails but can't seem to find a receipt for the discs/pads and I'm not sure exactly when I changed them - a couple of years ago now.

I seem to recall they were a "good" brand though. I'd like to say they're Bosch but I can't remember for sure.

Found it. Bosch discs and pads from AEP Direct in June 2019.

I also notice in searching back in this thread that I initially had some problems with runout due to rust on the hubs which I later fixed by wire brushing the hubs and reinstalling the discs.

[xantia_v6]

A few quick comments:

Have you tried pushing the rear calliper pistons back to check that they are not stuck? I have had MOT problems with the rear brakes on more than one Xantia, The final fix always seems to be a new set of soft pads.

I am fairly sure that you can get the instrument cluster out without removing the shroud and steering wheel.

The sump is sealed with a silicone sealant, no gasket.

For the A/C switch illumination, take the bulb and filter out of the volumetric sensor defeat switch, they will be in perfect condition.

[Mandrake]

A few quick comments:

Have you tried pushing the rear calliper pistons back to check that they are not stuck?

Yes - I always push the pistons back a few times as part of a rear brake service.

I have had MOT problems with the rear brakes on more than one Xantia, The final fix always seems to be a new set of soft pads.

I'd like to fit some soft pads for the rear brakes - my NZ Xantia had them fitted.

However I'm not sure how to order some ? I haven't seen any different grades available to buy so how would I know which ones are "soft" ?

If anyone knows the part number for a good set of soft pads I'm happy to buy some and fit them - the discs are still in good order so shouldn't need replacing as well.

I am fairly sure that you can get the instrument cluster out without removing the shroud and steering wheel.

I hope so. However there are two screws just above the shroud area that hold the shelf in front of the instrument cluster in. I don't think those screws are accessible with the shroud in place.

The sump is sealed with a silicone sealant, no gasket.

Good to know.

For the A/C switch illumination, take the bulb and filter out of the volumetric sensor defeat switch, they will be in perfect condition.

Unfortunately the volumetric sensor button light is dead as well - the only one of that group of three that still works is the one for locking the rear window winders, and even that is very faint. Most of the lights on the rows of buttons on the dashboard either don't work at all or are so faint that they can't be seen in daylight.

LED's are dirt cheap and available in all colours - I'm thinking of buying a mixed colour bag of high intensity 3mm LED's - a 3mm LED and miniature resistor should fit and will provide a permanent solution that isn't going to fail again. I'll just knock the front out of the blackened colour filters and rely on the colour of the LED itself. There is still a translucent white dispersion filter in front of the original colour filter so it should still look good although the colours won't be exactly the original colours.

I'll start by trying this repair on the A/C button - if it turns out well I'll do the others as well with their appropriate colours.

[Mandrake]

Well that's Auto glass booked in to replace the windscreen next Monday under insurance!

I await with interest to see how well they deal with the cracked to pieces scuttle....