Simon's new Xantia V6 and Leaf blog

[xantia_v6]

Any hardware shop should have something like:



I have on different occasions used one of these (fully extended) or a paring knife.

Other than removing the centre console, there is not much in common between carpet removal and dashboard removal jobs, but I would do them both at the same time.

[DHallworth]

You can definitely remove the carpets on the Xantia with the dash in place. I’ve done it on mine several times when my scuttle has let go of the windscreen.

You need to remove the front seats and centre console and the front left and front right carpets can be remove separately.

I need to find a way to reseal my scuttle to the windscreen as the last 2 times I’ve done it, it’s come away again.
David.

[myglaren]

If you haven't used it the Sikaflex adhesive is usually recommended to fix the scuttle.

[Mandrake]

You can definitely remove the carpets on the Xantia with the dash in place. I’ve done it on mine several times when my scuttle has let go of the windscreen.

You need to remove the front seats and centre console and the front left and front right carpets can be remove separately.

I need to find a way to reseal my scuttle to the windscreen as the last 2 times I’ve done it, it’s come away again.
David.

I've had the carpets out of Dad's Xantia before due to a water leak but we're talking about 15 years ago so I don't remember remember the details!

When you say the scuttle do you mean the piece that is bonded down onto the TOP side of the glass at the bottom of the windscreen ?

Are you saying you had a rain water leak due to your scuttle debonding ?

What I can't figure out, as I've never removed one, is where the seal between the glass and the body is to make it rain water proof... is the underneath edge of the glass bonded to the metal window frame and the scuttle is mostly just decorative, or is the scuttle an essential part to the seal against rain water with the seal being on the top side ?

I know the scuttle can crack on the passenger side allowing rain water from the glass to run down through the crack and drip into the air vent, but can it cause leaks on the other side ?

As you may have read earlier as well as my now leaking heater matrix on the left hand side I seem to have a rain water leak on the drivers side, which drips down onto the brake pedal when the car is parked in heavy rain. I know it's rain water not coolant due to no bitter taste, and also the fact that it appeared during a two day spell of heavy rain when the car hadn't even been driven for weeks.

The car has had interior condensation problems for years unless driven regularly, so I suspect there has been a small rain water leak gradually filling the carpet underfelt with water.

My scuttle has developed fine vertical cracks all the way across from the passenger side to drivers side so I can only assume that's how the water is getting in ?

Problem is as soon as I try to cut it free I think it's going to break into at least 10 parts as it's split in so many places, in which case I don't know how I'll ever get it rain water tight again ? Would I need to fill all the cracks with sealant as well and hope no more develop ?

It really could do with a replacement but it would seem very unlikely that I could find a good one and shipping something of that size and shape would be problematic...

If you haven't used it the Sikaflex adhesive is usually recommended to fix the scuttle.

Do you have a link for the specific product you're referring to ? A quick google reveals sealant for concrete and masonry ?

[xantia_v6]

Try to find an outdoor silicone that does not set to concrete after a few years, in case you need to remove it again.

Other than the length above the air intake, I don't think that the scuttle trim contributes much to water tightness. I went for a year or so with only the left had end sealed and did not have any ingress. I would suspect that your leak on the divers side may be due to a blocked drain.

If it is the first time the carpets have been out, you probably need to cut a slit in the carpet under the handbrake cable (hidden by the centre console) to avoid further dismantling.

[mickthemaverick]

Try looking for Silkaflex 522 for caravans. That is what I used to sucessfully seal my MX3's rear window.

[Zelandeth]

https://www.toolstation.com/puraflex-40 ... ive/p85566

That should do the trick - it's a polyurethane based sealant which sets strong enough that you could probably hang the world off it, but can still be easily slit through with a sharp knife or hot wire.

It's the type of adhesive that most bonded car windows/windscreens are sealed in with, Sikaflex being probably the best known by brand. Sika make a huge range of adhesives and sealants, Sikaflex being the brand name used for the flexible types.

I've used both the name brand and the one linked above on several projects and couldn't tell any difference between them to be honest.

It's useful stuff to have around, though do keep in mind a couple of things:

1. It can be incredibly messy to use, just like silicone sealant if you're not careful. If it's set the only reliable way I've found to completely remove it is with a razor sharp scraper...fine for getting residue off a windscreen, not so great for something made of plastic.

I did find a proprietary cleaner which said it was for removing PU sealant a few years back. It successfully removed the paint in the area in question in seconds... didn't touch the sealant though!

2. While it's curing the fumes given off do contain isocyanates, so it's really important to ensure adequate ventilation. Sealing an exterior bit of a car while working outside means this shouldn't be an issue. Nevertheless isocyanate fumes are never something to be taken lightly so I feel it's worth mentioning.

[myglaren]

There are several but either 225 or 227
Amazon have a range and I think that 258 is probably the most suitable but a bit hard to find in the UK.
Perhaps a windscreen fitter could help.

Some blurb:


I haven't used it but others on the forum have with good result. I think that Jim was one.

Sika make a huge range of adhesives for every imaginable purpose. I used it at work in a huge machine to bond uPVC doors together. Water-cured polyurethane adhesive. Still have it on a pair of glasses, a watch and many of my tools and work clothing.
It was the cause of my allergy, it contains Methyl Isocyanate

I haven't, as said, used any for that purpose but have bonded in a Volvo windscreen with a similar product and that was a success.

[DHallworth]

The windscreen is stuck to the car and the scuttle stuck to the screen. When mine started leaking it was the passengers side of the scuttle that became separated from the windscreen and allowed big puddles to form on the passengers side.

I’ve never had a leak on the drivers side though.

David.

[Stickyfinger]

Two lines of adhesive instant tape were used in the factory and one line of sealant. The tape held it instantly the sealant then cured.

UK cars have a "hole" that leads directly to the fan box....the water gets diverted away from this path by the plastic, if the seal is broken then it drips (under the plastic) off the screen and into the cabin via this pathway to the air box and fills the passenger footwell as David has found. The sealant must be a complete line all the way along the plastic running tip to tip.

LHD do not suffer the same direct pathway/design and do not suffer the same problem. LHD scuttles/inlet tubes/airbox are not the same as UK cars.

My advise is to use some very good double sided tape and a line of sealant/adhesive as per the factory method........or fiddle up a clamping method to hold the plastic in place until it cures, I do not think using masking tape will hold it correctly during cure due to the constant pressure needed.

[xantia_v6]

My recollection (it is 10 years since I did one) is that the trim mostly need pressing down at the ends while the sealant cures, and this can be done by wedging a small piece of wood between the wing and the trim.

[Stickyfinger]

My recollection (it is 10 years since I did one) is that the trim mostly need pressing down at the ends while the sealant cures, and this can be done by wedging a small piece of wood between the wing and the trim.

That is what the instant stick tape is used for....it is applied along the whole length and that holds the plastic down as the adhesive/sealant cures. Glass MUST be correctly cleaned or it WILL come off. There are special cleansers/surface prep to ensure adhesion. (Meths etc will not work....nor will brake cleaner).

EDIT: NOTE, the instant stick strips are 2mm thick (is).....this allows a thickness of sealant below the edge, sealant/screen adhesives need a layer for their strength unlike glues such as CA/Araldite that like to be thin.....as noted above the edges need to be checked.

All this you can see on the back after you take it off.

[myglaren]

Is this the kind of tape that you mean?
This is used for fixing the glazing units in PVCu doors. On the outside at least. A cheaper black sponge tape is used on the inside.

Surprisingly strong.

This kind of door:

[Stickyfinger]

It looks similar to the tape I used, but the stuff I used had a "thickness to it..........it was used in the same way for windscreens.

The guy said do not use it as masking tape/on the outside as it will pull paint off.

I would think for a few $$$ donated to there beer fund, a screen fitting workshop would do it for you cheaper than you could buy the materials if you did all the removal/clean-up for them.

[myglaren]

That tape is 1.6 mm. thick.

The suggestion of having a windscreen fitter do it sound a good option.