ZX gearbox removal

DaveG · Post by **DaveG** » 26 Nov 2003, 14:10

I have to fit new clutch on ZX 1.4 petrol. Have got to stage of removing gearbox but it wont split at rear and I can't find any bolts still to be loosened. I can't get RHS drive-shaft out but thought the gearbox should still be able to be removed. Any suggestions.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 26 Nov 2003, 21:22

Well - you better crawl under there and remove that RHS driveaxle - revealing the last bolt holding the box to the engine.
The worst thing you can do in car DIY is taking shortcuts - it ALLWAYS tends to knock you down from behind.
You MUST be a calm minded person to DIY on a car - as the best DIY tool is patience [:o)]

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 27 Nov 2003, 00:27

Not familiar with the petrol, but on a diesel the box would be pulled just off the dowels and then rotated so the diff clears the subframe before it would go further, with a shaft still in wouldn't rotate and the diff will foul on the subframe, on a diesel at any rate.
Have you removed the bell housing bottom plate that covers the exposed part of the flywheel.
Dave

DaveG · Post by **DaveG** » 27 Nov 2003, 03:16

Still having bother removing RHS driveshaft; does it just require brute force or is there a technique? No bellhousing bottom plate that I can see. Stripped my first engine (Lambretta Li 150) in 1965 (brother not too happy as it was his Lambretta) at age 15 so aware of need to avoid shortcuts.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 27 Nov 2003, 03:50

Hmmm...can you see the bottom edge of the flywheel as it faces the sump, if you can then no plate, if you can't then either plate is still there or this is some strange type of engine box arrangement.
Drive shaft intermediate bearing can get corroded in its housing, blast it with WD40, (you have loosened the nuts and turned the bearing retaining bolts through at least 90 degrees) the bearing retaining collar on the shaft protrudes through the housing, so get a nogin of wood against it and give it a clout with a hammer to get it moving.
Dave

DaveG · Post by **DaveG** » 01 Dec 2003, 21:21

Found the plate and removed it. Gearbox now split but driveshaft not budging so can't get gearbox out. Car on axle stands and can't get enough room to give it a good belt. Have soaked the intermediate bearing housing with WD40 and will have another go tonight in the pissing rain. Thanks to all who responded.

mbunting · Post by **mbunting** » 01 Dec 2003, 22:46

Ah, working in the ahem.. "torrential" rain, been there, done that, changed three sets of clothes and frozen various appendages !
Best of luck.

David W · Post by **David W** » 02 Dec 2003, 01:34

Dave,
Are you absolutely sure you have the intermediate bearing bolt "lugs" turned out of the way. If you are working with tight access it is easy for them to slip back unnoticed and prevent the bearing from moving...then you can hammer and curse all you like but it will stay put.
David

DaveG · Post by **DaveG** » 02 Dec 2003, 13:58

I was unsure of the position of the bolt heads so I ended up removing the nuts completely and pushing the bolts through so I don't think they are causing my problem. I had another go last night but still no movement; I think I'll just remove the rear engine mounting and get the driveshaft and bearing housing out together. Any views on this strategy?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 02 Dec 2003, 16:59

Dave -
From own sad/bitter experience - I know that there is very limited workspace down there trying to force out the RHS driveaxle from behind.
There are 2 options : either you try (with a chisel) to hammer on the edge of the bearing's lock ring - or you may hammer on the back of the inner tri-joint cup while you turn it a bit for each new blow.
The problem is that the bearing has surface rust - which makes it stuck in the engine mount alloy housing. It may take what seems forever to get it out - I found that a standard (& cheap) pneumatic hammer with a hobby compressor is the most effective tool. This tool does not impose large impact forces - but rather frees any stuck bits by the copious vibration - which you can never do by hand.
In despair I've tried the route unbolting the lower engine mount housing/bracket - no good - as the bearing definately is damaged from the work - and you can not get it out from the dangling housing round the axle - nor can you remove the axle for any further work.
It's the kind of work where your patience is tested to limits [}:)]
If my memory serves me correct the bearing should be an industry standard type 6006.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 04 Dec 2003, 00:02

That bracket is dowelled to the engine for precise positioning IIRC, there may or may not be enough play in the shaft to allow the bracket to come clear of the dowels.
Dave