Newbie Xantia Suspension Arms and Antiroll bars replacement

[Hell Razor5543]

This is probably a better price;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Comma-LHM-Plu ... 33783d0a70" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sparksie, what is the mileage on the Xantia? Citroen recommend replacing the LHM every 36,000 miles. It is also advised to do a Hydraflush cycle every third change (Hydraflush is a cleaning fluid that helps shift the crud back to the reservoir while also serving as hydraulic fluid for up to 3,000 miles). I have done this on Gracie, but I cannot honestly say if there was an improvement, as it would have been gradual.

[danny13]

I know, Halfords was an option, but I try to avoid shopping there as it's day light robbery. GSF for £6ish, Halfords £12.
Topped up today with LHM....no change, bouncing like crazy...will try to find the 'plastic clip' tomorrow am

[danny13]

ok...I think I have located the 'plastic clip' should it be fastened to the screw/bolt labelled 'X' in my photo? There doesn't seem to be much in the way of threads on the clip...

[Hell Razor5543]

No, it should be connected to a linkage on the anti roll bar or the height corrector mechanism. It depends on where it came off.

EDIT; Looking at the lower photo I would suggest it came off the height corrector. It definitely didn't come off that bolt, as you can see dirt throughout the whole thread lengths.

[danny13]

Damn! Should the arm that holds the clip be above the antiroll bar? I can see a clamp unit in my second photo maybe there's something above the clamp?
I have the car fully jacked and there's barely enough room to get under there, I think this is going to be a tricky DIY...a pit would be so nice!

[danny13]

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=27122 seems to show some photos although looks different to my 'dogbone'

[Hell Razor5543]

You will need to jack the car up a very long way, and I would then use axle stands as you will need to get underneath for a while. As the dogbone has popped off the H/C the suspension is not at its' correct level. The photos in the link are for the front, which is why some things will be different.

EDIT; At a guess (but this is a guess, as I cannot see it in your photos) the height converter is to the left in the lower photo.

[danny13]

I think I need a better jack! I can now see where the dogbone connects but with the car so low access is almost impossible, the knuckles the dogbone connects onto are pretty tight so really struggling to access. I wonder if this is one of the jobs that needs the H/C and antiroll bar clamp removed to piece back together as trying to clip the dogbone back on in-situ is very difficult....cuppa tea then attempt 2!

[danny13]

I need some of these!

[Hell Razor5543]

DON'T remove or loosen anything! Despite the fact the dog-bone popped off the H/C and the clamp are in the correct places. If you loosen anything you will almost certainly knock the settings off, and you will then need a set of ramps or a pit to get them correct again.

Get the back jacked up high on both sides, and safely supported on axle stands. You want both wheels clear of the ground. Remove the spare wheel, as this should give you better visibility and improve access to the gubbins. If you have somebody who could help it would be useful. Get into place to fit the dog-bone back into place, and get it lined up ready. If it will clip back on then do so, and it should be job done. If it does not, get your assistant to lift a wheel on one side, as this should move the anti roll bar (and the clamp and dog-bone with it), and fit the dog-bone back on.

There is something you must do first. Make sure that the car is properly supported before going underneath. If it is not, and the car drops, IT WILL KILL YOU! As you are working on a car with a problem with the rear suspension (OK, the dog-bone has just popped off, but it is still a problem) this is doubly true.

[electronmirror]

Those pictures show the front height corrector where access is very fiddly but possible.

[danny13]

Yup, its the front corrector.

Okay....so managed to steal the scissor jack from the mrs crv....managed to get an extra 10cm lift out of that! As an aside for safety I positioned the axle stand under the sill, although I'm not sure this is the wisest place, where should I be placing this as I really couldn't see anywhere suitable apart from the sill? (maybe the clue is in its name but didn't seem anywhere to seat the axle stand)



So managed to get the dogbone back on (needed to loosen the antiroll bar clamp) but back on it went.


Test drive down the road....still bouncy....doh. I wonder if maybe the plastic clip wasn't fully on or maybe the levelling needs resetting.
This is Fred in 'normal' ride height position.

[Hell Razor5543]

OK, so your problem is at the front.

I am not certain of the exact heights, but the rule of thumb on a Xantia hatchback is that, on level ground, with the engine running and the height set to normal, is that you can get 3 fingers between the tyre and the front wheel arch, and 1 finger between the tyre and rear wheel arch. I would imagine that, for the front, this would be the same on any Xantia (hatch or estate). If this is off you MUST make the adjustments with the car supporting its weight on its wheels (which means a pit, ramps, or a ramped lift, not a jack lift). There MUST be enough space for you to be safe under the car even if it bottoms out. When I had to adjust Gracies' front height I over-adjusted, and when she stopped moving she had bottomed out and the sump was touching my chest!

[electronmirror]

Danny,

Did you check very carefully to put the anti roll bar clamp back to the EXACT position it was in before you loosened it to refit the dogbone?

It is crucial to getting the ride height correct because a fractional rotation of the ARB clamp will cause a significant change in ride height. Your picture shows the front at what seems to be maximum height

Can the height be changed using the manual height control by the handbrake?

The other possibility that springs to mind is the control rod that runs from the manual height control forward to the front height corrector has been damaged when the suspension arms were replaced.

Axle stands under the sill jacking point should be ok but I'd suggest putting a decent piece of hardwood or sheet steel under the feet of the stands because you are working on a gravel surface.

Good luck and be careful

[danny13]

Cheers electron. Yes working on bloody gravel is a bit perilous, but managed to brush down to some firm dirt.
The manual height control works, it goes down low and goes high, it seems to struggle with the mid setting in that the front stays high. Pretty sure the clamp went back in exactly the same position. I'm going to check the rear dogbone then maybe head over to a garage to try to reset the ride height.