Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Tell us your ongoing tales and experiences with your French car here. Post pictures of your car here as well.

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Northern_Mike

Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by Northern_Mike »

CitroJim wrote:Same old WD40 in a new can I guess...
Doesn't appear to be. Smells different and has a much different, almost foamy consistency. Obviously works too. All those manifold studs, and the exhaust clamp came off with no bother at all.

I've *almost* got it back together again. The stupid exhaust is one of those that almost always leaks at the manifold/downpipe join. Simply two bits, one fits inside the other, the clamp goes over the outside of them. Being god knows how old, it's misshapen and rough, so I gave up in the end and bandaged it up before I put the clamp on. Just got to put the bodywork back on.

It still ran rough when I started it up. Same symptoms. I took the top off the carb, took out the jets, blew through them all, drained the float chamber and pumped down the fuel hose with the footpump..

Now it all runs again. I must need better filtration on the fuel line, there's already an in-line filter on it. Perhaps something else is needed? I don't know what though!
citronut
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Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by citronut »

northern_mike wrote:
citronut wrote:
northern_mike wrote: Everything came apart remarkably easily after I soaked it in WD40 penetrating fluid
whats this Mike
i didnt know WD40 produced penetrating fluid now
They do indeed :

http://www.wd40specialist.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I didn't know either until I went into Halfords to buy some of their own brand stuff, and the WD40 stuff was next to it on the shelf. Cheaper too (smaller can) so I bought some to see if it was any good.
well i never did :o :wink:
Northern_Mike

Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by Northern_Mike »

It lives again! After I'd put all the bodywork back on it, cleaned all my tools and crap out of it - it is handy having an open top car you can just whizz tools in for the evening, I thought I'd better stretch it's legs for the first time in a couple of weeks. 35 miles or so, about an hour ran it up to 80ish on the motorway, pottered about town, had a nice evening run. No real problems. Still runs a little hotter than I'd like. Perhaps need a new thermostat, but I need a BoL for it really, I don't know where the thermostat is! I think it also needs a new dizzy cap and rotor arm judging by the state of them.

It has however stopped pinking and it is cooler under the bonnet than it was due to the exhaust not leaking at the manifold to downpipe join.

Image
addo
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Post by addo »

Everything came apart remarkably easily after ...penetrating fluid
I believe it's been known for centuries as "bubbly" (nudge nudge wink wink).
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CitroJim
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Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by CitroJim »

That's a lovely picture of it Mike :-D

There you are Mike, An R4 BoL on ebay for you :-D
Hell Razor5543
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Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

CitroJim wrote:That's a lovely picture of it Mike :-D

There you are Mike, An R4 BoL on ebay for you :-D
I agree that the picture is lovely, but I am not sure how much the BoL will help, as his engine is 1108.
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Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by CitroJim »

Hell Razor5543 wrote: I agree that the picture is lovely, but I am not sure how much the BoL will help, as his engine is 1108.
They're basically the same James. The answer to cover the 1108 engine is to get an R5 BoL. A bit like the Xantia and XM BoLs are needed to fully cover the 2.0TCT Activa and 2.1TD engine.
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Post by addo »

Did anyone else notice that it's parked, tongue-in-cheek, on a "STOP" sign?
citronut
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Re: Berlingo battles and DRKpers

Post by citronut »

Mike
i think a lot of older Rhinos whooooops i mean Renaults the thermostat was actually in the top hose
Northern_Mike

Post by Northern_Mike »

I think you're right Malcolm. It needs a coolant change and I just wanted to put a new 'stat in it at the same time. Just needs a dizzy cap, rotor arm and some leads and everything will be like new under the bonnet.

I love simple old technology. Probably cos it's like me.

Does anyone know what gear oil I should use for the 'box?

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Post by addo »

I'd put 75W80 in there, like a BE series box. Anything not an auto box here, gets a half tube of PTFE additive too.

To digress slightly, I think the loss of lead has been a real issue for many carbed cars, the additives in our contemporary substitute-ridden fuels seem to make short work of "rubber" pipes and diaphragms, and the carbs get dry-sticky without the lead, plus some fuel's alcohol components rapidly oxidise the carb metals just enough to cause problems with calibration.
Northern_Mike

Post by Northern_Mike »

I agree Adam. The carb gets bunged up on a regular basis. It's not detritus from the tank. It can only be something in the last 75cm of fuel pipe or the carb itself. I'm going to replace the fuel line from the pump-carb later, but my money is on crud inside the carb flaking off due to modern petrol and blocking a jet. It's happened 3 times this year. I don't want to spend £150 on a new carb or getting this one cleaned and rebuilt as I have a spare manifold, and I intend to get a megasquirt kit and fit fuel injection and fully electronic ignition.

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Post by addo »

I'd seriously do that myself, use some billet fuel rail and get bosses welded onto the spare manifold. Damn near everything else could be done with ordinary mechanic's tools.
Northern_Mike

Post by Northern_Mike »

Well, all will be on the backburner for a while as I'm off to a wedding this week.... In Bogota. Surprise trip.

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CitroJim
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Re:

Post by CitroJim »

northern_mike wrote:Well, all will be on the backburner for a while as I'm off to a wedding this week.... In Bogota. Surprise trip.
How does Adriana feel about you marrying someone else Mike? :lol:

Seriously, have a wonderful time and no doubt you'll be caught up in lots of World Cup fun there...