Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

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Northern_Mike

Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by Northern_Mike »

Activa Directory authentication?

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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

northern_mike wrote:Activa Directory authentication?
I've written that many times Mike :lol:

It's a new system to see if you're entitled to own and drive an Activa... :wink:
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by xantos »

CitroJim wrote:Just a little off-topic. I've been thinking so hard about your Activa problems today Xantos I notice when proof-reading a paper I'm writing at work I've used the word 'activa' in every place where I meant to write 'active'

:oops: :rofl2:
Ohh Jim you shouldn't have! :oops: Well if there is problem with your activa you shouldn't go to work at all! :lol:

Thank you (and Simon) for brainstorming this one out much appreciated... But I'm down with the flu and I can barely think.

I've thought about taking the pipes with the pressure gauge to the cabin to see what's happening when driving. Don't want to know what would happen if a pipe broke :shock: But maybe I will just put it on top of the bonnet near the windscreen... Well if something goes wrong I'm going to be arrested for hit and run a Predator 8-[

The car sinks sometimes pretty rapidly and sometimes it drops just a bit over night. I've seen when I got home and parked it slightly uphill sideways that one side was (downhill) quite up and the other side (uphill) was sank to the bottom... But i believe just the activa system doing it's business, as it was (I don't really find the words) aligned with the horizon... Farting (engine off) seems to make the front rise a bit and the back sinks rapidly.

Just to add once more. All spheres are in known good condition and filled to about +10bar. Every sphere that I used was had at least 3/4 of specified pressure left (or more).
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

I'm sorry to hear you have the 'flu Xantos. may I wish you a very speedy recovery [-o<
xantos wrote: I've thought about taking the pipes with the pressure gauge to the cabin to see what's happening when driving. Don't want to know what would happen if a pipe broke
That was actually something I was going to suggest as it might be rather interesting..

If the pipe breaks you'll end up rather green :lol:
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

Something I find helps with the 'flu is a teaspoon of honey in a mug, add some squash, and top off with hot water (if you are not driving in the near future add some rum).
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

I find eating a lot of good, healthy home-cooked food really helps recovery...
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by xantos »

Long time no see :) I haven't died or given up on the activa... I was just tangled in a thing called life :-D

Quite some things have been done since my last post. I've changed front disc pads (old ones were burnt in 20kkm! :shock: ), rear discs and pads and rear arms. Now at last the wheels are standing almost straight. I think it's normal they have a little / \ angle. Now my steering will need to be realigned. Since I've changed the rear arms the wheel is a bit of centre. I was talking to a mechanic when I was doing wheel alignment about half a year ago, that when I will change rear arms I will need to realign it again as the steering wheel is centred to rear wheels.

Right! So suspension issues continue... I will just make it short (yeah right :twisted: ):

- sometimes it goes so hard over bumps I'm afraid that the strut will fly through the bonnet, tried to "underfill" the front spheres with no effect
- it's leaning in corners like a 2CV, activa works when parked, ignition off it goes leans about 10 times when I pull/push activa "stabilizers"
- when it leans and I drive over a bump it's not damping, like the suspension was on low
- electrovalves are blinking when driving and come on for a few moments and then blinking again, when I stop the car and ignition off they work fine
- leak from the high pressure regulator
- rear sinking sometimes on driving
- sinking to bottom when parked (not always)

Good news is that the STOP light suddenly started to work! When parked overnight it goes out in about 30s, when parked for a few minutes about 10 seconds. But when parked overnight it needs about 3-4 min for the suspension to work OK. If you just drive away after 30s the ride is teeth grinding!

Just the other day the ride was fantastic for a few km. It was like the road is flat and smooth with no holes and no bumps. In fact it was like there is no road at all!

Well still some jolly nice time is waiting for me trying to resolve this problem. If I don't give up before. Rust is beginning to become a major problem!
Xantia Break 1.9TD (jammed b****!)
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT + LPG (1998) (peeing b****!) RIP
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT (1998) (burnt b****!)
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

Good to see you back Xantos :-D

That's really odd for the Activa system to work at rest but not when it is really needed. The one time I saw similar where the Activa only worked on one side was caused by a seized quadrant plate. That's the one that links the roll corrector to the rods that connect to the wishbones. Also the rods could be very badly adjusted or the roll corrector might be full of dirt and muck making it very sluggish in operation. A roll corrector is identical to a height corrector bar it has no damper elements in it so it responds instantly.

I wonder if someone in the past has swapped it for a height corrector unaware of the subtle difference? Trouble is, they look absolutely identical...
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by xantos »

Happy new year everyone! :-D

Just the other night it struck me... What if I mixed up the pipes that go to activa ram in the front? I remember that when I was fiddling around it, I marked which pipe goes where but maybe someone in the past has done it wrong... Can someone tell me which pipe goes where? X to W or Y to W (see picture bellow)?

Image

Where does the car lean if you for example push the activa rods on one side? Does that side go up, or does it go down? The activa system is working when on a stand still, but not when driving. I don't remember which side goes up and I am not going outside to test it as it's freezing outside! :shock:

I didn't clean roll corrector and didn't even touched it. I was using hydrarincage about 20kkm back so it should be clean. The quadrant plate is free to move. What is the difference between roll corrector and height corrector apart from the different operation? What is the simplest way to find out? Just thinking now, would activa system even work if these two were mixed...

Show must go on! 8-)
Xantia Break 1.9TD (jammed b****!)
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT + LPG (1998) (peeing b****!) RIP
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT (1998) (burnt b****!)
Xantia Activa 3.0 V6 (1998) (not a b****! yet :-D )
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

Happy New Year Xantos :-D

My website page here gives some guidance on which pipe goes where but it's more to kane sure they lay correctly and don't chafe on the ram gaiter.

When you pull the roll corrector linkage toward you (or toward the wheel) the body should tilt toward you (or down on that side) and likewise if you push the linkage away the car should tilt up and away from you...

If something was reversed it's likely the two rams would fight each other and the nett result might be no or little tilt...
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by xantos »

superloopy wrote:
xantos wrote:Sorry. Repaired. Better?
gone :evil:
:?:

If you are referring to pictures in the first post I can still see them...
Xantia Break 1.9TD (jammed b****!)
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT + LPG (1998) (peeing b****!) RIP
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT (1998) (burnt b****!)
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by xantos »

Yesterday I was fiddling again round the car.

I've changed ABS sensor (with a used one, that is 99% to be OK) front left side, as it was showing no readings when checked with Lexia. But still light on the instrument panel is showing a fault. Did drive the car for 5km. Maybe there is a fault in the wiring somewhere. Does someone know from how much resistance should the sensor have? Would like to check that out, before starting to search the fault in the wiring...

I've also changed front sphere with IFHS ones. Off course I've put the Valprex valves on and filled it with designated pressure (just above 45bar).

Managed to find out what's my problem with dull electrovalves. It turns out to be the connector in the engine compartment fuse box - fuse F8. Simple solution - I've bend a little the legs on the fuse to make a better connection and BANG! electrovalves alive. Well all was not well as front electrovalve started leaking LHM. #-o Changed the o-ring and no leaks now. Everything bone dry as much LHM is concerned. For the first time in 2 years, that's as long as I have this car! :roll:

And the drive has improved significantly! :-D Much more soft in the front, but still suspension bottoms sometimes. I think I will raise it in the front for a centimetre or so. In the past I've lowered it a bit and it's spot on but... When I lowered it in the front that's when problems started. I thought it was something with the spheres as I've done the job simultaneously.

Now just to figure out what's causing it to sink so fast. Sometimes it drops the second I turn out the engine, but sometimes it stays up all night... Nevertheless when starting the car it comes down first and then up again... But as long as it stays soft when driving and doesn't bottom out [-o< I won't be too much frustrated with sinking...
Xantia Break 1.9TD (jammed b****!)
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT + LPG (1998) (peeing b****!) RIP
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT (1998) (burnt b****!)
Xantia Activa 3.0 V6 (1998) (not a b****! yet :-D )
C4 Exclusive 2.0 HDi (gear shifting b****!)
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

Xantos, that’s excellent news :-D

Does the car sinks rapidly from high or does it only sink from normal height?

Also, when it sinks almost immediately can you hear a noise a bit like a toilet flushing?
Jim

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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by xantos »

It sinks only from normal height. I can hear a farting noise when it's sinking, but not always. Sometimes it sinks without any noise. I can't pinpoint where it's coming from...

I was just outside cleaning the car of snow. High pressure regulator clicks every 30sec. So internal leak somewhere as all spheres are renewed and filled with designated pressure.

It's really bouncy at the back, hard when electrovalves off and then again soft when electrovalves on (opening door). The front is not so bouncy but much better as it was. Just feels like it doesn't bounce back so much. When I do the bounce test it feels like the suspension goes down but then it doesn't bounce/spring back the way it should. It stays a bit low until it settles back to right height.
Xantia Break 1.9TD (jammed b****!)
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT + LPG (1998) (peeing b****!) RIP
Xantia Activa 2.0 TCT (1998) (burnt b****!)
Xantia Activa 3.0 V6 (1998) (not a b****! yet :-D )
C4 Exclusive 2.0 HDi (gear shifting b****!)
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Re: Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

Post by CitroJim »

If it only sinks at the front then it may be slight wear in the struts. If it's both ends then it'll be something making the anti-sink valves a bit sluggish to operate and I've known cases of very rapidly falling main hydraulic pressure to be the cause..

So, the fact you have an internal leak may be connected to the sinking issue..

So often the internal leakage is caused by one or the other of the electrovalves..

Is the regulator tick rate the same in had and soft modes? If the same then it's not the electrovalves and the next likely suspect is the brake dosuer. That too can cause sinking at the rear especially...

The rear being bouncy is likely wrongly specified corner spheres or very badly worn damper elements in the corner spheres. I've had the same problem on mine. It caused me lots of head-scratching as the spheres were newly regassed ones. but a swap to a new and genuine set cured it completely.

I had those two duff spheres turned into accumulators by removing the dampers...
Jim

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