Picasso 2.0L hdi 2002 won't start

[dbX]

Well done, let us know how you get on.

Peter

Hi Pete, I've finally got around to fitting my pump (which went astray in the post from Ebay, but that's another story).

Can you clarify, the actual pump, does it not matter about locking it off in position for timing? There are 2 threaded holes in the pulley, but nothing behind them to screw into.

Also, the crankshaft, IS there a locator around the flywheel / starter motor like on some peugeots? I'm having trouble finding it.

Regards, Dawson

[jgra1]

hi Dawson, 99% sure you don't need to lock the pump sprocket off. the timing doesn't matter..it is possible to remove the sprocket and leave it resting, while changing the pump.. be careful..

I have yet to change my pump, so I cannot vouch for this, but it's what I have read..
John

[taffy]

yea as long as you have control of the situation u can do it
you will have to take the starter motor off and move to the side(you dont need to disconect the wires just move the unit to one side) and you will see a little hole approx 8mm in diameter pointing towards the back of the flywheel...the best way i managed to find the timeing was to use a metal chlothes hanger to find the hole initiall and then use a bolt to make sure its bang on timed
as for the pump yes you can take it off without removing the belt.. loosen the belt very slightly checking its just untensioned to allow u to hold the sproket with ur hand in place.just undo the hp sprocket nut,remove the hp mountin bolts.unscrew hp sprocket nut to the end of the shaft end just over the top of the thread end and hit it with a hammer..it should pop off..oviously you need ur new hp pump sitting on the engine so u can take off old one and grab new one with one hand whilst holding the sprocket in place with the other..bolt it up.retension ur timming belt.check your timmings correct on crank and cam if all is correct spin the engine over 10 times and recheck timing..recheck belt tension..
i must add to have a good read up on it first..google it and spend a good time reading about it

[taffy]

also be sure of the cam timming hole there are two but the proper one should be ovious...u could do with a little mirror so you can see...i would time the crank before checking the cam as you dont want to damage anything..
also undoing the bottom pully bolt can be very tight..make sure u have proper bar and extensions and also a suitable leaverage impliment such as half a scaffolding pole or simular to put over your bar to extend the length..put the car in fith gear and make sure handbrake is on tight

[dbX]

Ok guys, thanks. The belt is coming off anyway for renewal but interesting to know that the pump can be swapped without removal of belt.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Regards, Dawson

[Peter.N.]

Sorry for delay, been away. No, the pump position is not critical as its only a high pressure pump to maintain the rail pressure, timing is all done by the electronics.

Peter

[dbX]

Ok, I've got everything locked off. I've noticed when refitting the cambelt the bottom pulley on the crank has play in it, ie the slot over the woodruff key is wider than the key, enabling possibly to get it a tooth out, is this normal?

[Stewart(oily)]

Ok, I've got everything locked off. I've noticed when refitting the cambelt the bottom pulley on the crank has play in it, ie the slot over the woodruff key is wider than the key, enabling possibly to get it a tooth out, is this normal?

I have seen this on older XUD engines, caused by running with the pulley bolt loose or the cam sprocket having a crack in it.

[RichardW]

I've noticed when refitting the cambelt the bottom pulley on the crank has play in it, ie the slot over the woodruff key is wider than the key, enabling possibly to get it a tooth out, is this normal?

That's they way they are designed - from about 2001 on. Earlier engines had a vernier cam pulley, but this was deleted in favour of a (presumably cheaper!) floating crank sprocket. As long as the crank and cam are pinned, and you refit the crank pulley (or at least the bolt with a spacer) before you move the engine, then it will stay in time. The floating sprocket allows the tension to be equal all round the cam belt.

[dbX]

Thanks Richard.

[taffy]

yea its ok cause it doesnt effect the timming

[dbX]

All sorted, job done and motor is up and running!! It was the HP pump after all. Thank you to all who contributed to this thread for guidance.

Regards, Dawson

[taffy]

well done mate!!

[Peter.N.]

Yep, good, that was what I found - eventually.

Peter

[dbX]

Mmm... Just wondering if I have the cambelt tension too tight. I set it so I could twist it 45 deg. on the longest run. I've just been reading the tension will increase when warm. Maybe I should reset it to 90 deg twist? There was a bit of a whirr sound when running when started - and that was a cold engine.
Any advice?

Could I back it off without pinning it up maybe?