306 1.4 Service Schedule

[Northern_Mike]

Hi All,

Can some kind soul please tell me what needs doing at a minor service on a 306 1.4 petrol? It's a 1997 car..

12k ago I did the following:

Oil, oil and air filter, new plugs, new plug leads, new fuel filter. Checked brakes and tyres.

6k ago I did the oil, oil filter, air filter, cleaned and gapped the plugs and checked brakes and tyres.

Service light is on again and I've been asked to sort it out. The owners book is long gone from the car.

I'm guessing just an oil and filter, with perhaps an air filter and a quick check will be ok? It shouldn't need plugs or a fuel filter should it?

Cheers

Mike
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[spider]

I don't have the schedule to hand.

97 is the 9K intervals for most petrol engines.

Minor service is just oil / filter, levels, tyre pressures / condition, front brake pad check and lights etc. Fluid top up where needed.



Regarding other stuff while I'm here:

Typically the plugs would be every 36K (or 18K in some cases)

Air and fuel filter (often neglected ) 18 or 36 again. Probably 36 for the fuel filter

Coolant would be wise to change if its not good.

[Oldpug]

As above,but add brake fluid change,this always gets forgotten.Peugeot say every 36K or three years.The same with, remove the rear hubs,clean and check brakes,(wheel cylinders often leak).Replace cambelt at 80K or eight years.

[spider]

I knew there was somthing, although I was in a rush typing that.

Same interval as rear brake check as fluid change.

Earlier models were 72K for petrol belts later ones 80K as indicated although that's quite a way for little TU unit anyway given how easy it is I'd want to do it more often.

[addo]

It's a 1.4, so every 80K replace head gasket...

[Northern_Mike]

I don't have the schedule to hand.

97 is the 9K intervals for most petrol engines.
Coolant would be wise to change if its not good.

Thanks for the info.

It's 6000, or at least that's what the service indicator counts down from once it's reset. I think it's an early 97 (uk R reg) car.

Changed oil, it wasn't that dirty, despite mainly town use. Bit of mayo on the oil filler cap, again, I put that down to town use.

Took wheels off, pads ok, Greased sliders. All levels checked, all ok. Didn't take rear hubs off as it started to rain and get cold. I'm sure they'll wait for a few weeks.

Now - coolant. Consistency and colour of cat poo in the top of the header tank, utterly disgusting. No contamination of oil, but it looks like it's never, ever been changed for the life of the car. I'm going to do this sooner rather than later.

So, how do I drain it? I can see a drain-plug like hole on the passsenger side of the rad at the bottom. Feels like it has small nut in there or something that needs undoing? Any hints or tips?

Can't see any bleed screws for refilling.. usual fill up slowly?

Brake fluid and PAS fluid needs changing too, or will at the next service. My concern here is that the nipples are going to be seized and will snap off.

It also needs a new drop link and a new tyre, so it'll get a pair of links and I swapped the new spare onto the duff wheel.

[addo]

If it's the hex nut type drain cock, you can usually slip a length of tube on the nipple before cracking it open with multigrips. Often the O-ring makes their seal a bit "sticky" until a flow of coolant lubricates it...

With calipers, if the bleeder is dodgy there's every chance the piston's starting bore is corroded and "tight" so a swap for refurbed calipers can be the easy way out. A lot of rebuilders will decline a core unit if you've tried to drill/tap a busted bleeder, but they're OK if you present with a snapped bleeder.

[Hell Razor5543]

Plus-Gas will probably help with the bleed nipples. I have used it on Gracies brake nipples, and they turned easily enough, after a week of application. I did replace the nipples, and greased the threads with copper slip. ECP on Cardiff Road have some Plus-Gas.

[spider]

Some models have the recess but no drain plug in the rad. Remove bottom hose if in doubt, should be easy on a petrol unit.

Regarding bleeding, yes they do need careful bleeding. Fill slowly anyway though.

Bleed screw location possibilities:

Top of radiator (not all have this) a plastic plug you twist 90 or 180 degrees.

Heater hose, plastic screw. Nearly all of them have this one. Be careful the oring stays in the pipe or comes out with the screw. Gently probe to check its not blocked.

Thermostat housing: Brass screw normally. Remove it (when coolant empty!) and check the screw is clear as well as the hole. Only very very gently nip this up as they will break off, although a standard bolt could be used if desperate.

I don't think the petrol units have one in the bypass hose on the thermostat housing.

As above should find at least two (heater hose on bulkhead and thermostat housing) if not three (top of rad)