Eolys?

[Sorcerer]

The report back is that they've sorted the recall issue , but their diagnostic unit is not ' seeing ' the FAP unit which to them indicates a wiring issue , they reckon it would be extremely expensive for them to go rooting around and not something they'd encourage as it would be impossible to estimate a cost beforehand . Has anyone else had issues with the wiring to the FAP /EOLYS Tank? I see some earlier models had wiring issues in the loom behind the battery ?

[Sorcerer]

I've spoken to the mechanic when I picked up the car , he said that in most cases that he's come across it was moisture ingress into the loom which has caused the issue and it's particularly common in UK imports . He said it's usually within a foot or two of the fap tank . He said remove the cover open the loom up and trace towards the front of the car . He said you'll usually notice some green staining on the pertinent cable . I've just given my own mechanic a call to try book an hour on his ramp to see if there's anything obvious

[Sorcerer]

Ok I put the car up on the ramp stripped back the loom and the cables were perfect , I checked the connectors on the engine ECU and no issue there either . I've run a global test and the ESP /ABS ECU is indicating ECU not recognised, nor is the control panel ecu or Parking Aid recognised. The error codes listed are
B1003 55 and
B2EB0 001.
I've tried to access the FAP tank to replace the tank and set the levels but the ECU gives a communications error .

[wheeler]

The first thing you need to do is check there is an ignition live feed at pin 1 of the additive tank & a good earth at pin 3. Id also connect a fillament bulb (not an LED) across pins 1 & 3 & see if its nice & bright with the ignition on.
If thats all good you need to check the continuity of the LIN wire between pin 2 of the pump/tank & pin 35 of the 60 way black connector on the BSI.

[Sorcerer]

The first thing you need to do is check there is an ignition live feed at pin 1 of the additive tank & a good earth at pin 3. Id also connect a fillament bulb (not an LED) across pins 1 & 3 & see if its nice & bright with the ignition on.
If thats all good you need to check the continuity of the LIN wire between pin 2 of the pump/tank & pin 35 of the 60 way black connector on the BSI.

Thank you Wheeler for the response , I'm struggling to find where the items in the car are located , there's what I presumed was the engine ECU to the left hand side of the battery with 3 multi connection plugs , there's also another fuse unit in front of the battery , I'd opened this and found a slightly corroded connection , but having cleaned it up it hasn't resolved anything . Where exactly is the BSI ? I can find lots of info on the older models but very little on the B78

[GiveMeABreak]

The BSI is always inside the vehicle and is located in the passenger side glove box. It may have several banks of fuses either top, bottom and to the sides surrounding the BSI. Be careful of this - it is the main computer in the car and is very sensitive.

[wheeler]

Do the easiest checks first, don't worry to much about the BSI yet.
If the power & earth are there my guess would be the tank is dead, If you want to check it fully then you would also need to confirm the LIN wire is good but this would be a bit more involved & I don't know your abilities. I would agree with the garage though & would say there is a 90% chance if there were corroded or broken wires they would likely be within close vicinity of the tank, I would definitely pull apart & clean the connector ICK5C, The installation diagram is not shown here but if its the one im thinking of its underneath close to the tank.
Also depending on the location of splice E953 if this is external it may also be worth a look.

[Sorcerer]

Unfortunately my mechanic has gone on holidays this morning and so his ramp is not now available to me . The plug connection into the FAP tank is poorly designed in that the release tab is on the top of the connector and very difficult to remove , so not something I could do on the side of the road. The fact that the global test is thrownig up a couple of ECU not recognised alerts would suggest to me that it's more likely to be associated with either a dodgy supply wire which drives a number of items or a corroded earth point as you've pointed out Wheeler. I was surprised when I removed the tank protective cover and exhaust shield that the cable loom was in perfect condition with no visible damage to the cables inside whatsoever.i traced the cable loom from the tank and it seems to pass inside into the interior after it routes over the exhaust pipe , it's clipped alongside a larger loom coming from the back of the car and both seem to enter the car at the same point

[Sorcerer]

Ok the latest update is that I brought the car to a recommended auto electrician , he found that someone's drilled a hole through the honeycomb of the DPF and rewritten some code which was causing the communication issue . He's removed the code and the FAP pump is now operating correctly , but the dpf is throwing errors , very blocked, and needs to be replaced . So basically I've inherited a dodgy 'work around 'from the car's past

[GiveMeABreak]

Somebody has basically tried to gut the DPF of your vehicle as they couldn't be bothered to repair it. Of course this is illegal to remove the emissions system and you have been left with the repair - my sympathies. To prevent some errors they have also probably had the engine ECU programmed to map out the DPF to avoid detection at MOT - and frankly I'm surprised it has passed as it will be letting out all the particulate matter.

Basically, you need the DPF replacing, the engine ECU re-programmed with it's factory settings and hopefully it will then be operational - but please be advised, in its current condition it will not legally be allowed on the road and that has implications for your insurance - as it no longer conforms to the emissions standards or legislation in force at the time is was it was registered. I'm not trying to be a jobsworth either - but forewarned is forearmed The fine can be a £1000 if caught on a public road (unless on a way to the garage for pre-arranged repairs / remedial work).

People that do this are the pits of the earth and leave honest owners with the consequences.

[C15htn]

Hi all

New here because im researching - with all of this eolsys 'stuff' going on..... do I really want to buy my good lady wife a C5 2.0 hdi as a shopping trolley?
Are they as fractious and complex as they sound?
Im currently rather nervous as ive got one temperamental prima donna that I use for work and nurse through regens - am I looking at another? Should I just buy a Kia?

Sorry but I do like to be forewarned

Thanks in advance.
Jim

[GiveMeABreak]

Basically a diesel with a DPF is not going to be suited to trips to the supermarket. They need a good run to allow the engine to get to temperature and short stop and start journeys are no good for the DPF. Even though they have assisted regeneration, this will only lower the temperature by 100°C from 550°C to 450°C needed for assisted regeneration and won't help if the system fails to complete a regeneration cycle all the time because of the engine being switched off or stopped for short trips.

Best to get a petrol in this case - but you'll be hard pressed to get a petrol C5 as the petrol versions were limited in engines and not popular, the diesels being a good cruising car.

[sadssandiford]

Hi, just filled up and got the dreaded

"P Filter Additive Low - Refill" fault.

I've got a 2010 C3 Picasso 1.6hdi, with DV6DTED engine.

Its a spare holiday car so does mostly motorway driving and I believe this will cause regeneration with no Eolys Fluid.

How can I find which fluid to use as I believe they are not interchangeable.
Vin is
VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

Just a side note, if I got the low level fault reset, can you just add the Eolys Fluid manually to the tank when you refill, like you do with redex but how do you find the dosing rate. This would save cost of refilling/replacing the pouch..!

[wheeler]

You have a flexible pouch on this car that is powerflex.
Adding eoloys fluid directly to the fuel tank is a definite no no. It is precisely metered depending on how much fuel you add & other factors.

[GiveMeABreak]

Just a side note, if I got the low level fault reset, can you just add the Eolys Fluid manually to the tank when you refill, like you do with redex but how do you find the dosing rate. This would save cost of refilling/replacing the pouch..!

... and this would have no effect on the warning - it is not designed to be manually added to the tank. Just get the pouch replaced and get the additive counter reset by your dealer - if you don't have access to a proper diagnostic kit yourself with this capability. Replacing the pouch alone will not be sufficient - it must be reset.