Calling xantia experts, a few technical faults - MOT'd :-)

[Duke137]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and I have to say there is some great info on here!

My car is a 2000 Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi with 154k on the clock. I have a few issues I would like to tackle to make the car good as although it is useable currently and still drives well it has some age/mileage related faults. I aquired the car from my Father who has moved out permanantly to France, he bought the car in February this year for a few hundred pounds as a work horse as he travelled approximately 100 miles per day (he has owned 4 Xantia variants over the years and swore by them). The problems listed below have always been on the car since his ownership (apart from no.3) and I just wanted to sort these out. My Dad used this as his second car and wasn't bothered about the minor problems as it does 50+ to the gallon. I just like things to work right so here goes:



Problem 1. Suspension clicking.
I did a search on here and I found that it is more than likely the height adjuster link rods/levelling system. Although I don't mind having a go at tackling this myself I am a novice with this kind of thing and I do need the car every day. Is it easy enough for a novice to do on a Saturday say?

Problem 2. Airbag Light flashing
Is there a way I can test how to stop/fix this as I guess it is an MOT fail?

Problem 3. The dreaded blowers on full blast
Think I have all the info on this from previous sticky threads, I bought an ebay transistor unit the other day and I just wondered if that was an easy-ish fix?

Problem 4. One of the rear doors doesn't lock/unlock with the remote central locking
Is there a common cause for this/easy fix or is it a case of stripping things down and work it out?

Since owning the car I have started to really appreciate what a gem these HDi cars can be for dailly use. My other cars have mainly been big thirsty old petrol BMW's but you cannot argue with the fuel consumption and the wafting around in the comfiest armchair ever


Also, is there any local experts (East Midlands) who fancy giving me a cost to sort the levelling issue? I lead a busy life and have a young family and I am sure most of you will understand that time is quite often not on my side, depsite the fact I love getting stuck in myself

Many thanks in advance

[jgra1]

hi Duke..

a quick response..
1/ clicking.. can you describe this, and why you think it's a problem? The suspension is supposed to tick, every so on (20-60 seconds is good, less than that means the system is loosing pressure somewhere I believe)

2/ the normal trick is to disconnect battery, short terminals together I think, leave for 10 mins, then take apart(one of) the connectors under drivers and passenger seat.. clean the connectors and put back together.. also, have a good look at the disabling switch in the center console.. I think these can give problems after years of spilt coffee etc

3/ no idea - but it is quite easy to get the main ?power baord out of fan unit from memory.. if it's anything like the C5, its a 5 min job

4/ most likely, your key needs recoding to car using a lexia.(check / replace the fob battery to) . maybe someone near you that can help

others will be along with more descriptive advice and other ideas

John

[Duke137]

1/ clicking.. can you describe this, and why you think it's a problem? The suspension is supposed to tick, every so on (20-60 seconds is good, less than that means the system is loosing pressure somewhere I believe)

RE: Clicking, It's definately not right. Clicks every second or so very loudly. The back end drops on initial engine starts and takes 10-20 seconds to rise regardless of revving the engine. When parked (engine off) the front sits about an inch higher than I would estimate it should and the back is correct. The noise sounds like it is coming from the sphere (or attached gubbins) mounted to the front of the engine/gearbox area.

I would just buy the parts and replace the whole lot but it appears the unit that sphere attaches to is pretty expensive....

Thanks for the info you posted, I will look into that airbag fix

[Xaccers]

1/ clicking.. can you describe this, and why you think it's a problem? The suspension is supposed to tick, every so on (20-60 seconds is good, less than that means the system is loosing pressure somewhere I believe)

RE: Clicking, It's definately not right. Clicks every second or so very loudly. The back end drops on initial engine starts and takes 10-20 seconds to rise regardless of revving the engine. When parked (engine off) the front sits about an inch higher than I would estimate it should and the back is correct. The noise sounds like it is coming from the sphere (or attached gubbins) mounted to the front of the engine/gearbox area.

I would just buy the parts and replace the whole lot but it appears the unit that sphere attaches to is pretty expensive....

Thanks for the info you posted, I will look into that airbag fix

The accumulator sphere at the front of the engine needs replacing, when it is low on pressure the regulator has to work over time which is the ticking/clicking.
Get a replacement sphere from AEP, or GSF.
Make yourself a sphere removal tool as per the instructions in my signature.
Once you've got the new sphere, put the car on high, stick axle stands under the front jacking points (use a jack on the front subfame if you need to lift the car a little bit to get the axle stands under), set the car on low and the back will drop while the front rises giving you plenty of safe workspace underneath.
Let the car do all the heavy lifting
With the car on low and engine idling, on the front of the regulator that the accumulator sphere screws into is a 12mm bolt, it's the bleed screw.
Turn it 1/4 or 1/2 to get a "whistle" which is the LHM losing presure, then switch the engine off, and nip the bleed screw back up. Don't remove the screw, there's a ball bearing behind it which will make a bid for freedom, and it is very stealthy!
Fit the sphere removal tool to the sphere, turn it enough to get it going, and then unscrew the sphere by hand.
The new sphere should come with a new o-ring, coat it in clean LHM and fit it to the recess in the socket, then screw the new sphere on, only hand tight.
That's the front accumulator done.

Now, there is a rear one too, known as the anti-sink sphere (as it was only fitted to cars with anti-sink valves, it provides emergency pressure for the rear brakes), up behind the spare wheel cradle.
It is a bit different to the other spheres in that the pipe screws directly into the back of the sphere and uses a pipe seal (GSF do these, AEP probably do too).
You'll need a 9mm flare spanner and a lot of patience.
Get the car back on high again, move the axle stands to the rear jacking points, set it on low, depressurise by undoing the bleed screw, turn engine off, nip up screw.
Up behind the A/S sphere is a box like structure with the pipe to the sphere going through it. Hook the flare spanner onto the pipe nut and get it going one or two turns.
Then unscrew the sphere with the spanner still in place. It will hold the nut and you'll be screwing the sphere out of it's socket and off the nut at the same time.
Fit the new pipe seal to the end of the pipe, don't push it over the bulge of the flare.
Screw the sphere into the socket just enough to hold it, then wiggle the pipe in and get the nut going, or push the pipe out through the socket enough to start it going on the sphere, then screw the sphere into the socket one or two turns, which ever you find easiest.
Then re-attach the spanner to the pipe nut, screw the sphere home, and then you'll have fewer turns of the pipe nut to nip it up (doesn't have to be done up tight).

[Duke137]

1/ clicking.. can you describe this, and why you think it's a problem? The suspension is supposed to tick, every so on (20-60 seconds is good, less than that means the system is loosing pressure somewhere I believe)

RE: Clicking, It's definately not right. Clicks every second or so very loudly. The back end drops on initial engine starts and takes 10-20 seconds to rise regardless of revving the engine. When parked (engine off) the front sits about an inch higher than I would estimate it should and the back is correct. The noise sounds like it is coming from the sphere (or attached gubbins) mounted to the front of the engine/gearbox area.

I would just buy the parts and replace the whole lot but it appears the unit that sphere attaches to is pretty expensive....

Thanks for the info you posted, I will look into that airbag fix

The accumulator sphere at the front of the engine needs replacing, when it is low on pressure the regulator has to work over time which is the ticking/clicking.
Get a replacement sphere from AEP, or GSF.
Make yourself a sphere removal tool as per the instructions in my signature.
Once you've got the new sphere, put the car on high, stick axle stands under the front jacking points (use a jack on the front subfame if you need to lift the car a little bit to get the axle stands under), set the car on low and the back will drop while the front rises giving you plenty of safe workspace underneath.
Let the car do all the heavy lifting
With the car on low and engine idling, on the front of the regulator that the accumulator sphere screws into is a 12mm bolt, it's the bleed screw.
Turn it 1/4 or 1/2 to get a "whistle" which is the LHM losing presure, then switch the engine off, and nip the bleed screw back up. Don't remove the screw, there's a ball bearing behind it which will make a bid for freedom, and it is very stealthy!
Fit the sphere removal tool to the sphere, turn it enough to get it going, and then unscrew the sphere by hand.
The new sphere should come with a new o-ring, coat it in clean LHM and fit it to the recess in the socket, then screw the new sphere on, only hand tight.
That's the front accumulator done.

Now, there is a rear one too, known as the anti-sink sphere (as it was only fitted to cars with anti-sink valves, it provides emergency pressure for the rear brakes), up behind the spare wheel cradle.
It is a bit different to the other spheres in that the pipe screws directly into the back of the sphere and uses a pipe seal (GSF do these, AEP probably do too).
You'll need a 9mm flare spanner and a lot of patience.
Get the car back on high again, move the axle stands to the rear jacking points, set it on low, depressurise by undoing the bleed screw, turn engine off, nip up screw.
Up behind the A/S sphere is a box like structure with the pipe to the sphere going through it. Hook the flare spanner onto the pipe nut and get it going one or two turns.
Then unscrew the sphere with the spanner still in place. It will hold the nut and you'll be screwing the sphere out of it's socket and off the nut at the same time.
Fit the new pipe seal to the end of the pipe, don't push it over the bulge of the flare.
Screw the sphere into the socket just enough to hold it, then wiggle the pipe in and get the nut going, or push the pipe out through the socket enough to start it going on the sphere, then screw the sphere into the socket one or two turns, which ever you find easiest.
Then re-attach the spanner to the pipe nut, screw the sphere home, and then you'll have fewer turns of the pipe nut to nip it up (doesn't have to be done up tight).

Wow great post!

How long does said job take do you think for a novice? I actually have an accumalator sphere in stock, my Dad bought one it would seem as it in the box of random parts in the boot. There is also a brand new Anti-Sink valve in there. Do you reckon that should solve the problem then? Like most I guess the majority are old tired turds now, however I much prefer to lavish my fleet with new parts when required rather than running my cars on a shoe-string.

Thanks for your input

[Xaccers]

Wow great post!

How long does said job take do you think for a novice? I actually have an accumalator sphere in stock, my Dad bought one it would seem as it in the box of random parts in the boot. There is also a brand new Anti-Sink valve in there. Do you reckon that should solve the problem then? Like most I guess the majority are old tired turds now, however I much prefer to lavish my fleet with new parts when required rather than running my cars on a shoe-string.

Thanks for your input

You don't need to change the anti-sink valve, you need to change the anti-sink sphere (which is really a rear-accumulator sphere).
There is no "on car" test for the state of the anti sink sphere, but it is a good idea to change it at the same time as the front accumulator which is tested by the tick rate being lower than 30 seconds meaning new sphere needed.

Should take an hour with the DIY sphere removal tool, or a pukka Plaedes sphere removal tool.
Find your nearest round lamp post, get the parts, make the tool, and change the front accumulator while you're waiting for the rear one and pipe seal to be delivered (4.5mm if memory serves - although you can often fish out the old one carefully from the old A/S sphere and re-use it).

One thing I love about the suspension is how easy it is to renew, just screw the old spheres off and the new ones on. No dangerous spring compressors etc.
The only thing to remember about the corner spheres is that the rears need to be started turning with the suspension on high (and something unde the car to support it should it suddenly drop while you're under there!) as all that holds the rear struts in place is the tension of them pushing against the rear arms.

[CitroJim]

Problem 3. The dreaded blowers on full blast
Think I have all the info on this from previous sticky threads, I bought an ebay transistor unit the other day and I just wondered if that was an easy-ish fix?

Problem 4. One of the rear doors doesn't lock/unlock with the remote central locking
Is there a common cause for this/easy fix or is it a case of stripping things down and work it out?

3. You will have seen this post? I used to offer a repair service but sadly I can no longer

4. This will be broken wire in the door loom where the wires pass via the rubber concertina from the B post to the door.

Here's the circuit diagrams that may help you...

Schematic

Harnesses

Locations

Hope that helps

[Duke137]

Wow great post!

How long does said job take do you think for a novice? I actually have an accumalator sphere in stock, my Dad bought one it would seem as it in the box of random parts in the boot. There is also a brand new Anti-Sink valve in there. Do you reckon that should solve the problem then? Like most I guess the majority are old tired turds now, however I much prefer to lavish my fleet with new parts when required rather than running my cars on a shoe-string.

Thanks for your input

You don't need to change the anti-sink valve, you need to change the anti-sink sphere (which is really a rear-accumulator sphere).
There is no "on car" test for the state of the anti sink sphere, but it is a good idea to change it at the same time as the front accumulator which is tested by the tick rate being lower than 30 seconds meaning new sphere needed.

Should take an hour with the DIY sphere removal tool, or a pukka Plaedes sphere removal tool.
Find your nearest round lamp post, get the parts, make the tool, and change the front accumulator while you're waiting for the rear one and pipe seal to be delivered (4.5mm if memory serves - although you can often fish out the old one carefully from the old A/S sphere and re-use it).

One thing I love about the suspension is how easy it is to renew, just screw the old spheres off and the new ones on. No dangerous spring compressors etc.
The only thing to remember about the corner spheres is that the rears need to be started turning with the suspension on high (and something unde the car to support it should it suddenly drop while you're under there!) as all that holds the rear struts in place is the tension of them pushing against the rear arms.

Should have said, I know I don't need to change the Anti-sink valve and the sphere I do.

That's great, the car has done 10K with this issue so a few more miles won't hurt. Plenty of lamposts around here though my Dad just confirmed that somebody has already attempted the sphere and it is RIDICULOUSLY tight Oh joy.

[Xaccers]

If the DIY tool fails, then it will be time to get hold of a proper Plaedes tool.
Also check the metal pipes as they come out of the hydraulic pump, the seal on the big hex which the suspension/brakes feed comes from often fails with age and needs replacing. There's a same size hex a bit further around the pump body but with no hole for the pipe that uses the same size seal.
If it looks wet then it is worth replacing the seals, they're less than a quid from the dealers.
There's a spring under them so be careful it doesn't slide out, it's not under tension so won't shoot out. Could be a job for another day if they're not weeping at all.

[CitroJim]

And if the Pleiades tool fails then you need a big hammer, a cold chisel and a big punch.

Sounds brutal but it works....

I have also seen success with a Pleiades tool with a length of scaffold pole on the end...

[Duke137]

Perfect info than you gentleman

[Old-Guy]

Removal of the Anti-sink (and rear 'corner' spheres) is much easier if the joints are given a really good soak in PlusGas or similar (not WD40) - at least overnight, a couple of days is even better. Be very careful of the bracket that the A/S sphere screws into - the metal is quite thin to start with and its susceptible to rusting. When you fit the new A/S sphere, use the old seal from the accumulator sphere; this will make the job much easier next time.

Full Instructions

[Duke137]

Thanks, if anyone fancies doing the spheres for me for a few pound notes then please get in touch, I am in Derby (East Mids). Only because I struggle for time with work / family commitments.

[Hell Razor5543]

re 4, I had similar problems with Gracie but worse. The OSR door was not on the central locking, but would lock from the button, but the NSF door was deadlocked and non-responsive. I found failed wires in the sleeving between the door and the pillar. There is enough room to work on them, so I added new lengths (insulated with heat sleeving), and (barring a problem with the alarm thinking a door is open) all of the doors are now on the central locking.

Ignoring the earth wire (coloured green) there are 4 wires involved on the rear door locks. These are all coloured white, but they also numbered, so it is not all bad. I added 0.5m on each wire to allow enough length for movement of the door.

The sleeving is tight where it goes into the pillar, as it goes in quite a way. I would make up a full set of repair wires first (eight in total), and then get on with it. If you can get somebody to help (by holding the wires together as you solder them) it will make the job easier. Otherwise steady hands are needed.

[Duke137]

Hi folks

Just in addition to this, I have a couple more questions...

I tackled the resistors last night hadn't had chance to look at it until now but it really is a piece of cake to access etc if any novice is thinking about DIY'g it! However, I bought a replacement part on ebay for about £16 and typically it doesn't work... My fault, buy cheap buy twice and all that! So, I just wondered if there was anywhere I caould get a reputable part from without getting my trousers pulled down?

Also, the front sphere.... Wow, this thing is STUCK SOLID We even resorted to an Air chisel and that didn't shock it free! So, I am going to replace the whole unit it is attached to, again any ideas on supplier, is it dealer only? Doeas anyone have a spare they want to sell (Known working). Before anyone offers any suggestions for removal I can assure you the car was on a ramp, Snap-On tools were used by my Mechanic mate some have been bent and even a scaffold pole extension didn't help. My mate has said he has never encountered anything so stupid in his life as these are supposed to be a touch over hand-tight....

Not a good result to last nights effort

Cheers