My Xantia needs knowledgable help!

[Hell Razor5543]

Thanks for that, Richard. Looks like a 'fun' process (time to break out the Plus Gas again). I think that I will also buy those bits from that supplier.

I have checked the Haynes BoL, but it doesn't mention whether the bearings should be greased. Any thoughts on this (as to if I should grease them, and what grease to use)?

[c.morewood]

Big Mick at Eurocarcare is very helpful and fairly knowledgeable James. Either Phone or Email.
Didn't have any dealings with Little Mick, but no reason to believe he's any less helpful.

BTW anyone had any dealings with A1 carparts direct of Gorseinon in Wales? I sent my very 6 month old, 6000 mile, noisy wheel bearing back to them a month ago for a warranty refund and have heard nothing back.

[citronut]

I have checked the Haynes BoL, but it doesn't mention whether the bearings should be greased. Any thoughts on this (as to if I should grease them, and what grease to use)?

i always fill the bearings as much as possible on assembling, and smear a thick wadge all around the outer bearing race's before offering the bearing to them,
also smear grease along the length of the bolt and pivot tube, i usually just use LM grease,

on removing the old inner race's if you have a mig welder just run a short bead of mig at opposite sides of the outer race surface,
this not only heats up the race but also gives you somthing to drift it out by,

also this way you only just catch the plastic liner with the heat, so in most case's it can be left in place/re/used

[Hell Razor5543]

I know this may sound silly, but is LM grease the same as multi purpose grease? I don't want to make an avoidable mess.

2 rear arm repair kits on order, and (at this moment) they cost me under £50, including P&P and VAT. I don't have any welding kits, and hints would definitely be appreciated.

[Northern_Mike]

Grey lithium-based grease James..

I'm just a grumpy Northern git.

[citronut]

I know this may sound silly, but is LM grease the same as multi purpose grease?

i just did a goooogly search to check what the LM stands for and found this site

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-grease.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

if you scroll down there is a chart that might be useful

I don't have any welding kits, and hints would definitely be appreciated.

the main reason for the beads of mig, are because there is very little edge of the outer bearing race's the drift on in the process of removing them, even with the plastic liner removed out of the way,

if you own a proper expanding bearing puller that attaches to a slide hammer this would make the job easier,

like the one in the link below, obviously if the max diameter you require does not exceed 32mm

http://tinyurl.com/nf7obh9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Hell Razor5543]

Don't have one of those either, and finances are not good enough to get one.

[Mandrake]

You shouldn't need any fancy tools James, just a solid, round drift longer than the width of the base of the arm to tap out the bearing race from the opposite end.

When I did the arm bearings on my first Xantia I just used a large flat blade screw driver to pierce and then crush / crumple up the plastic spacer tube so that it could be squeezed out through one of the bearings races, then use the drift from the opposite end to tap each bearing out being careful to go around the bearing to keep it straight so it doesn't bind.

Obviously you can only use this method if your bearing kit includes a new plastic spacer tube, which mine did. I didn't find it a particularly hard job, and I didn't use a bearing puller or a welder. Just remember to put the shim back in the right place, if there is one fitted.

[Hell Razor5543]

Mine do have the spacer tubes, but I also managed to get 4 off e-bay (if anybody needs any once I've finished) just in case. Thanks for the tip about the shim.

[Hell Razor5543]

Will do, but it is probably going to be 'What NOT to do!'.

[Hell Razor5543]

Well, Gracie is now MoTed for another year. Thanks (massive thanks!) to citronut she now has a new O/S wishbone and a N/S ball joint fitted. However, during our work we found the N/S 'P' bush doesn't look too clever, and the O/S ball joint is very easy to move (but not rattling loose!). I will have to get those sorted at some time (preferably in the near future). I might see if I can get them sorted out as birthday presents!

[CitroJim]

James, excellent news on the MOT and Malcolm's sterling work in this respect

Yes, you can always expect the the opposite P bushes and swivels to be bad if one lot are failing...

[Hell Razor5543]

I think that the 'P' bushes were replaced in the past by somebody who didn't know how to line them up properly. The one on the old wishbone was about 20 degrees off position (and I bet the other one is as well!).

[CitroJim]

The one on the old wishbone was about 20 degrees off position (and I bet the other one is as well!).

That' certainly does cause them to die early James... I made that mistake many years ago the first time I ever replaced them and found out the hard way!

It's one reason I always keep an old set of wishbones as a set of templates...

[isisalar]

Jim, on this very subject, P bushes, I'm sure I read a very old post of yours, where you said that there were location dots on genuine arms and bushes, is my memory playing tricks on me?