2 Problems with my Xantia

[CitroJim]

HI

A couple of questions before I start the job.

1. Haynes Manual says I should replace the lower suspension ball joint nut and the circlip in the driveshaft joint. Is this really essential? Or can I keep the old ones on?

2. When I take of the bottom engine mount as Paul suggested.. is there any risk of the engine falling on top of me?

3. Was thinking about changing the gearbox driveshaft seal at the same time... is this a good idea?

Cheers
Larry

1. It's good practice but few do in practice!

2. No.

3. A very good idea and it's easy. Just lever out the old seal after the driveshaft is out and gently drift the new one home using a block of wood slightly larger than the seal as a mandrel. Oil the seal and driveshaft before reinserting. Seals are 'handed' and are not the same on both sides...

[lazza]

HI All

Had a successful day removing the right hand drive shaft today. Thanks for all the help to get this far.

I have a few questions:

1. I cant see anything to examine at the driveshaft seal... it just looks like a deep hole to me ?

driveshaft seal?

2. As the gear oil has been drained (I didnt drain it beforehand, just let it run out of the driveshaft hole, about 3/4 litre came out), I dont suppose that once i fix the leaky water junction house I could test the system for leaks by running the engine before putting the driveshaft back on?

3. How to I use the cone to put the new gaiter on?.. scratching my head a bit on this one

Cheers
Larry

[CitroJim]

Hi Larry,

1. See in the picture the round white castellated section and below it the black lip. That's the oil seal. If you don't end up replacing it look at the black lip for marks, cracks and bits missing. If it was totally oil-tight before and you are very careful how you re-inset the shaft all should be OK.

2. No, it'll make a horrible mess! You can test for leaks without the shaft in but the gearbox must be fully drained and the engine must only idle as the gearbox will be spinning inside and will only have boundary lubrication by dint of the thin oil films remaining.

3. The cone is used as follows: Oil it and the new gaiter very thoroughly and slide the new gaiter on the cone, small end first. Put the open end of the cone over the tri-ax joint and push the new gaiter up the cone to expand it enough to pop over the end of the cone. As it pops off the end of the cone the gaiter will then end up on the driveshaft behind the tri-ax joint and shrink back to it's normal size. It takes a tad of effort to push the gaiter all the way up the cone and plenty of lubrication is critical. Repack the driveshaft joint with plenty of CV grease upon reassembly...

[lazza]

Thanks.

Job almost finished. The seal looked ok, so i didnt touch it.

I've a couple of questions on the torque settings:

1. The lower ball joint nut i tightened to 45Nm as suggested in Haynes manual, but this seems very low... maybe my torque wrench has a problem? or shouldnt it be too tight?

2. My torque wrench only goes up to 210 Nm.... how do I get the driveshaft nut up to 320Nm ?? Or is it a bit of guesswork?

I need tomorrow to put the nut back on, fill the gearbox with oil and refill the cooling system... and hopefully...

Cheers
Larry

ps getting the gaiter down the cone was a real struggle ... next time i'll have to get some more tips on making it easier!

[CitroJim]

Excellent Larry

The bottom balljoint. Torque it up using a foot long T bar and socket until you can't tighten it any further using moderate force on the bar... 45Nm is fairly tight. Yes indeed, this nut needs to be proper tight. Remember 45Nm will be for a NEW Nyloc nut. It doesn't hurt to give used ones an extra few Nms...

The hub nut I normally use a 3 foot (metre) breaker bar on and do it up so it's FT. FT basically means f'ing tight! That's tighter than the moderate tightness you should do the balljoint nut up Basically my definition of FT is pulling up on the breaker bar until my eyes are about to pop out of their sockets...

So in short, guesswork...

[lazza]

Thanks Jim

Well, job done and car seems to be working nicely. Not quite sure how tight I got the hub nut-- couldnt get the bar to turn it any more, but didnt seem as tight as when I had to get it off. Is there any risk if it's not quite up to the 320Nm?

anyway it's got its ITV (MOT) next week- lets see how it fairs.. will let you know

[addo]

One little trick is graphite grease or copper grease on the hub nut threads and inner face. Makes it easy to stack on another 20+ foot-pounds.

Anyhow - it's probably adequate, provided you peened the nut or fitted its split pin - depending on the type.

[CitroJim]

Well done Larry, that's very good work Excellent

Anyhow - it's probably adequate, provided you peened the nut or fitted its split pin - depending on the type.

Indeed, if it's as tight as you can get it on a big bar then it's tight enough. Most have the 'R' clip and the crinkly nut cap to ensure they don't come loose. Never seen a peened one on the front Adam but the rears are peened...

I once did some up as tight as I could and then broke two breaker bars trying to undo them again four years later

[lazza]

Hi All

Would just like to say a big thanks to all on the forum who have helped me do my last job on the Xantia. It just passed its MOT (ITV in Spain) with flying colours !! Just need England to win Euro2012 and it will make my month .

It's really a fantastic forum and I hope to be in touch again once I've settled into my new house in a few months.. where I should to have somewhere to work on the car, to keep it running and hopefully improve it's performance.

Cheers
Larry

[CitroJim]

Larry that's wonderful news Made my evening that has

As always, a pleasure to help

[RichardW]

Good work...

Hub nut torque - it's about 250lb ft. I weigh about 200lb, so I just fit the breaker bar horizontal on the nut, and then stand on it approx 15" from the hub nut. Voila, 250 lb ft torque. If the nut turns and he bar sinks, then refit horizontal so it doesn't go down anymore when you stand on it. Adjust where you stand depending on your weight - Jim probably needs all 3ft of the breaker bar, being on the slight side

[CitroJim]

Adjust where you stand depending on your weight - Jim probably needs all 3ft of the breaker bar, being on the slight side

Yep, that'll be right Richard I'm the sort who has to run around in a shower to get wet...