R/O/S brake pipe
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Estate has bigger rear brakes, and the arm is different to accomodate the larger trailing arm bearing.....
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Thanks Richard,
Typical Citroen.
Kenny
Typical Citroen.
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Think we definatly need a flaring tool location map, like the lexia one!
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Good idea Dave DickieG suggests a Sphere tester map too so do both at the same time perhaps..davetherave wrote:Think we definatly need a flaring tool location map, like the lexia one!
Doubtless repipes on Xantas and XMs will be a more recurring issue as they age so having some members about with the kit will be good...
I'm toying with the idea of taking a risk on the flaring tool mentioned earlier in this thread...
Jim
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
That certainly does look like a good piece of kit Jim very good for flares that dont have to be done in situ.
Good idea with the pressure tester locations as well, Could be a useful resource.
Good idea with the pressure tester locations as well, Could be a useful resource.
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Anyone with sphere testers and/or flaring tools that would use them on behalf of other FCF members please stick your details in this thread please
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Lets start the hydraulic list going.
Sphere tester - genuine Citroen.
Flaring tool - Automec with 3.5mm & 4.5mm dies.
I am currently negotiating for the 6.35mm & 10mm dies to complete the Citroen set.
Better put me on the Lexia list as well.
Hi Jim
I rejected that tool while deciding what to buy when Pliaedes could not supply me with a 4.5mm flaring tool.
I borrowed one from my local Indy and was not happy with the results particularly on car.
For on car I found that screw operated is virtually essential.
I intend to make up a small frame to be able to use the Automec easily on car.
If you want to co-operate on that then we make two and you only need to buy Automec dies.
John
Sphere tester - genuine Citroen.
Flaring tool - Automec with 3.5mm & 4.5mm dies.
I am currently negotiating for the 6.35mm & 10mm dies to complete the Citroen set.
Better put me on the Lexia list as well.
Hi Jim
I rejected that tool while deciding what to buy when Pliaedes could not supply me with a 4.5mm flaring tool.
I borrowed one from my local Indy and was not happy with the results particularly on car.
For on car I found that screw operated is virtually essential.
I intend to make up a small frame to be able to use the Automec easily on car.
If you want to co-operate on that then we make two and you only need to buy Automec dies.
John
Xmexclusive
Re: R/O/S brake pipe
i have a hand held 3.5 screw type, but i find it not to be 100% successful on repairs to steel pipes on or off the car, even if i clean the powder coating from tend of the pipe,
i also have a pile of mostly 3.5 OE new old stock pipes which are mostly BX, but obviously will fit most other hydraulic citroens depending on pipe length required
regards malcolm
i also have a pile of mostly 3.5 OE new old stock pipes which are mostly BX, but obviously will fit most other hydraulic citroens depending on pipe length required
regards malcolm
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Another option could be this Guy on Ebay link
I going to need to re-pipe a far bit on my CX Safari, I haven't contacted but seems good idea for time saving.
Also Flaring tools are not cheap Link
David
I going to need to re-pipe a far bit on my CX Safari, I haven't contacted but seems good idea for time saving.
Also Flaring tools are not cheap Link
David
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citroencx.co.uk
1987 Citroen CX Prestige. De Corps Brun Maya - cuir blond tabac, très chic
08 Jaguar X-Type 3.0V6 Sovereign Estate - Green (HGZ) - Leather Ivory seats.
citroencx.co.uk
Re: R/O/S brake pipe
SNAP
regards malcolmKennyW wrote:Found this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-DS-BX ... I%26otn%3D" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Possible problem saver. Maybe worth a mention on forum site or if any members have used this person report back.
Kenny
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Excellent John, thank you... I will take very much your advice and experience on the flaring tool in question and the best route to follow.xmexclusive wrote: Hi Jim
I rejected that tool while deciding what to buy when Pliaedes could not supply me with a 4.5mm flaring tool.
I borrowed one from my local Indy and was not happy with the results particularly on car.
For on car I found that screw operated is virtually essential.
I intend to make up a small frame to be able to use the Automec easily on car.
If you want to co-operate on that then we make two and you only need to buy Automec dies.
John
Have you details of the Automec Dies?
I'd be very happy to join in with you on the frames for them. Perfect!
Jim
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Hi Jim
Will PM you to sort out the way forward with this.
Out of interest in the ebay advert photo for that flaring tool did you notice the Pliaedes flare tool in the vice.
Made me wonder which tool actually made the sample flared pipe in the photo.
John
Will PM you to sort out the way forward with this.
Out of interest in the ebay advert photo for that flaring tool did you notice the Pliaedes flare tool in the vice.
Made me wonder which tool actually made the sample flared pipe in the photo.
John
Xmexclusive
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Thanks John, that'll be wonderful
Yes, and I've noticed it in the past and could never work out why... I know the Pleiades flare tools do make some very good flares indeed.xmexclusive wrote: Out of interest in the ebay advert photo for that flaring tool did you notice the Pliaedes flare tool in the vice.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Thinking of ordering a pair of these pipes from Kennys link,cheers pal.
might as well do both sides while I'm under..mot's in 2 months anyway.
Just to be sure,(this cit suspension still baffles me sometimes )
I'll have to de pressurize the car,as in bung it on lowest setting,and then open the screw/bolt a tad in the engine bay?
Won't this make access even more..innaccessable!
Which screw/bolt am I looking at exactly pic?
Thinking of doing it on my ramps,or is axle stands more viable? ( sure I've heard the rear arm might need dropping? )
Cheers, Dave.
might as well do both sides while I'm under..mot's in 2 months anyway.
Just to be sure,(this cit suspension still baffles me sometimes )
I'll have to de pressurize the car,as in bung it on lowest setting,and then open the screw/bolt a tad in the engine bay?
Won't this make access even more..innaccessable!
Which screw/bolt am I looking at exactly pic?
Thinking of doing it on my ramps,or is axle stands more viable? ( sure I've heard the rear arm might need dropping? )
Cheers, Dave.
1999 Xantia LX 2.0 HDI 110 Rusteration project...
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Re: R/O/S brake pipe
Dave
There's no need to depressure the suspension, since you are not working on it - although I did depressure as I was expecting it take all weekend (it did, as the calipers were well rusted and I dids pads and discs at the same time) and I didn't want it settling on the stands when I wasn't expecting it! I did one on axle stands no problem - it's easy enough to feed the pipe in over the arm if you use kunifer. Remove the clamps at the spirals, drill out the rivets, and refit them to the new pipes with small bolts. Worst bit i had was that I couldn't get the stub of the pipe out of the K splitter on the car - and had to remove the splitter - with plenty of trepidation that the union on the car pipe would not survive! I got the stub out in the end, but at one time, only way I could think of was to burn the seal out.... Note that if you do depressure you will need to put the car back on at least one wheel to get some weight on it, or the suspension won't repressure, and bleeding the brakes will be a bit tricky!
There's no need to depressure the suspension, since you are not working on it - although I did depressure as I was expecting it take all weekend (it did, as the calipers were well rusted and I dids pads and discs at the same time) and I didn't want it settling on the stands when I wasn't expecting it! I did one on axle stands no problem - it's easy enough to feed the pipe in over the arm if you use kunifer. Remove the clamps at the spirals, drill out the rivets, and refit them to the new pipes with small bolts. Worst bit i had was that I couldn't get the stub of the pipe out of the K splitter on the car - and had to remove the splitter - with plenty of trepidation that the union on the car pipe would not survive! I got the stub out in the end, but at one time, only way I could think of was to burn the seal out.... Note that if you do depressure you will need to put the car back on at least one wheel to get some weight on it, or the suspension won't repressure, and bleeding the brakes will be a bit tricky!
Richard W