Front Brake Flexi-Hoses....

davetherave · Post by **davetherave** » 14 May 2011, 18:21

I had to do this job recently, the only way i could get that nut off was with a little grippy type universal wrench.
Difficult to describe but once they have purchase they cut into the metal, but do damage the nut quite a bit.

dnsey · Post by **dnsey** » 14 May 2011, 18:40

No good for this job, but...

I have a very old (probably pre-WW2) sort-of-adjustable-ring-spanner, which, given enough clearance, will remove almost any nut of automotive size. If the 15 inch or so leverage doesn't strip the thread, it will undo the tightest fastener

The business end is a ring with a 'half hex' internal form. An adjusting nut on the handle end winds a die having the other half of the hex into the ring. The fastener is thus gripped by four faces.

I'm sure a current manufacturer would do well with a copy of this tool (perhaps they are, and I've just never come across one).

Post by **CitroJim** » 14 May 2011, 18:54

myglaren wrote:The Bahco tools have always been excellent

They certainly are. I'd forgotten they were Swedish. They certainly do the best pliers. Lesser ones of a similar pattern to the 8224 either bend or let go when put under severe strain. The Bahco just grips harder.

They seem unbreakable and goodness knows, I've tried hard enough to break them

dnsey wrote:I have a very old (probably pre-WW2) sort-of-adjustable-ring-spanner

I know the one you mean

I have a big version of one somewhere in my toolkit. Sadly much too big for brake flares..

Some of these old tools are still good and it's a shame they're no longer made. I've a set of "footprints", another kind of water pump plier that will grip anything and get it moving but unlike the Bahco it can inflict a bit of damage in doing so.

I also have a set of King Dick adjustables...

Johnny Cogs · Post by **Johnny Cogs** » 15 May 2011, 11:34

WOOOHOOOO!!!!!!

Cracked it..... was a fight and I was applying the "sh*t or bust" type of preassure and click!!!!! Lovely!!!! Don't have a set of Bahco's but have got something very similar so used them and lots of PlusGas (good stuff indeed...) So having a cuppa now, then out to bleed the brakes (do I need to bleed the rears too?) then wheels on, cor down, citrobics, celebratory JD + coke then off to test centre tomorrow for re-test!!!! happy daisies!!!!

Post by **CitroJim** » 15 May 2011, 12:05

Excellent news

Well done!

No need to bleed the rears although if the rear spheres have been off in the past and they have not been bled then it's a good idea to do so.

Gently 'crack' open the bleed nipples first before the bleed proper and let a bit of Plus Gas seep around them. The front nipples are not that accessible compared to the rears.

If you do need to do the rears, go on high, stay on high, jack up a little one side so the wheel clears, remove the wheel and let the jack down a little so that there is load on the rear suspension.

Again, Plus Gas and go easy initially cracking the nipple. It's steel into ally so there is a chance of dissimilar metal corrosion making things a bit tight. Use a good 8mm ring gently and you'll be OK.

Repeat for the other side.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 15 May 2011, 14:26

i use VISE GRIPS farr better than MOLES and they dont bite you on releasing them,

i must admit i have never tried my parrot nosed/plumbers grips for this job as yet,

also if useing heat mind you wear eye/face prtection, as i have seen a rubber flexi EXPLODE in a big way from its ferral whilst heat was being applied,

regards malcolm

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 15 May 2011, 15:25

The usual trick normally works with these tube nuts, slightly tighten first.
Then use a quick and firm action on the spanner when loosening, being too timid risks rounding off the corners.

Johnny Cogs · Post by **Johnny Cogs** » 17 May 2011, 10:54

Hey all... Thakns to everyone for the advice and help. Yesterday I was issued by that most precious of green and white test centre certificates

Bleeding those brakes was a larf... 7mm one side, 8mm the other and couldn't get the bleedin thing to start... oh the words I used!!!!

Still.... in for the retest she went... no probs... all good....

I'm not too happy with the brakes as the pedal seems to sit a bit low and is quite floppy, but when applied hard the nose will hit the deck and a flicker of abs cuts in (in the dry!) so they must be hunky dorey!!!!

Considering this is my first citroen and I bought the ol' barge last august with the intention of just running it till it's mot ran out I am actually really impressed it bumbled it's way through to another year of motoring.... Plus with the (almost) full service I gave er it's almost a different car! (can hear the noisy ass gearbox OVER the engine rattle now!!!!

Got a few niggles I would like to sort but am in a bit of a "well where do you stop" dilema now... ha.... perhaps I should write up a blog rather than fill this post up with questions....

Anyways... enough waffle... and on with another years frugality!!! Cheers again for the help gettin it through the test folks!!!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 17 May 2011, 13:24

as you say your new to citroens and i presum it a XANT???

what bleeding method did you employ,

if you used the up down method for non hydraulic citroens,

this is wrong as with hydraulic citroens the presure is there all the time after the system is pumped up,

so all you do is open the kniple with length of clear tube into a container, press and hold the pedle till you get a stronge flow of citro blood coming out, now shut the kniple, continue to the next and so on,

the first pedle presure is normal braking the second is locking every thing up,

regards malcolm

Johnny Cogs · Post by **Johnny Cogs** » 17 May 2011, 13:31

Hey malcolm... I had a broom wedged on the pedal with the engine running, as advised by citrojim..... the crack of air wqas almighty... lol... probably drained a bit more out than i should have, just to get rid of some of the black, manky lhm and get it running clear!!! (and yes, still the xant buddy..)