Oooerrrrr um..... Not sure about that... Knowing my luck a spring will fling out and ill loose it... I dont unfortunally have a nice clean tidy workshop floor to work on... :-\ :-C
paul
My Xantia V6 Blog ....SADLY Due to End.. :-(
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Got some more done this week...
Managed to get the rusty Strut feed pipes off the car on both sides.. The Drivers one was not so bad.. had to disconnect the harness plugs on the inner wing, and unbolt the washer bottle filler neck.
The P Clips though 3 came undone 10mm nut, one didn't, so I had to cut the clip on the top of the P bit.. the rest of them no problem..
As for the passenger one, some may know that one runs along the front of the battery tray, then up the side of it, then UNDER all the main loom wires from the fuse box and up to the strut, it also has the two smaller Valve block feed pipes with it... so, off with the battery tray.. AH theres the Gearbox ECU under the battery.. and dismantle the Fuse box wiring... to loosen things up. It ended up not as bad as it looks to remove it, once wiggle jiggle the end under the wires and out she comes...
So heres a close up of them off the car...

However, after having them in the Vice, and useing an old HackSaw blade and emery cloth, the pipes actually came up amazingly well!!
They both came up roughly like this one:

So really pleased with that result as they were still thick enough and pleanty of life in them... so after a good rubbing down, I them got them painted black (As they were black coated orginially) they now both look NEW ready to go on..
The next challange was Cam belt off...
Again, another easy thing, Im really impressed with the fact the centre bolt does NOT need removing to get the pully off... I undid the 4 nuts removed the pully, of course then removed the top engine mount, and removed the covers, and totally amazed to see they ALL lockup with pins!!
YAY...


So 8mm bolts all in there to lock them up, and one in the crank too.. this is mice and easy...
Now then, how do you... um remove that tensioner..

I slackend all 4 10mm nuts, to find the piston tensioned the thing up, so I screwed a nut in, and slacked it off and slipped the belt off..
To this:

The belt was a recent one, the writing was ok on it, however, the water pump was the original, it had PR on it and 97.. and signs of leakage.. I did wonder were the water was going when I was useing her...
Right here:

I then also removed the HP Pump, it has a bad sign of leakage on it.. so Im thinking she needs a seal in the useual place.
So thats my current progress and position..
Next visit, I need to put the pipes back on.. put the fuse box back together and tidy all that section back up.
I also, but havent taken photos yet had to clean up the PAS pipe up AFTER the rubber part were it joins the chassis leg, I also swapped the PAS Return pipe, as it was cracked
Paul
Managed to get the rusty Strut feed pipes off the car on both sides.. The Drivers one was not so bad.. had to disconnect the harness plugs on the inner wing, and unbolt the washer bottle filler neck.
The P Clips though 3 came undone 10mm nut, one didn't, so I had to cut the clip on the top of the P bit.. the rest of them no problem..
As for the passenger one, some may know that one runs along the front of the battery tray, then up the side of it, then UNDER all the main loom wires from the fuse box and up to the strut, it also has the two smaller Valve block feed pipes with it... so, off with the battery tray.. AH theres the Gearbox ECU under the battery.. and dismantle the Fuse box wiring... to loosen things up. It ended up not as bad as it looks to remove it, once wiggle jiggle the end under the wires and out she comes...
So heres a close up of them off the car...

However, after having them in the Vice, and useing an old HackSaw blade and emery cloth, the pipes actually came up amazingly well!!
They both came up roughly like this one:

So really pleased with that result as they were still thick enough and pleanty of life in them... so after a good rubbing down, I them got them painted black (As they were black coated orginially) they now both look NEW ready to go on..
The next challange was Cam belt off...
Again, another easy thing, Im really impressed with the fact the centre bolt does NOT need removing to get the pully off... I undid the 4 nuts removed the pully, of course then removed the top engine mount, and removed the covers, and totally amazed to see they ALL lockup with pins!!
YAY...


So 8mm bolts all in there to lock them up, and one in the crank too.. this is mice and easy...
Now then, how do you... um remove that tensioner..

I slackend all 4 10mm nuts, to find the piston tensioned the thing up, so I screwed a nut in, and slacked it off and slipped the belt off..
To this:

The belt was a recent one, the writing was ok on it, however, the water pump was the original, it had PR on it and 97.. and signs of leakage.. I did wonder were the water was going when I was useing her...
Right here:

I then also removed the HP Pump, it has a bad sign of leakage on it.. so Im thinking she needs a seal in the useual place.
So thats my current progress and position..
Next visit, I need to put the pipes back on.. put the fuse box back together and tidy all that section back up.
I also, but havent taken photos yet had to clean up the PAS pipe up AFTER the rubber part were it joins the chassis leg, I also swapped the PAS Return pipe, as it was cracked
Paul
Last edited by citroenxm on 24 Sep 2013, 19:12, edited 1 time in total.
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Excellent stuff Paul
Pleased the pipes cleaned up well. Yes, they are thicker than they look...
Replace the waterpump and tensioner with the later C5 items (from the ES9J4S) Then you'll not need a SEEM gauge to set the belt tension as the C5 tensioner is an automatic one. The old Dynamic tensioner is a bit of a devil to set up and you can't use the old finger and thumb trick on it...
Looks like you've made some spiders homeless


Replace the waterpump and tensioner with the later C5 items (from the ES9J4S) Then you'll not need a SEEM gauge to set the belt tension as the C5 tensioner is an automatic one. The old Dynamic tensioner is a bit of a devil to set up and you can't use the old finger and thumb trick on it...
Looks like you've made some spiders homeless


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Paul (and Xac),
Meant to say, in connection with the steering return, colourful silicone hose as used by those who like to detail their engine bays is LHM-proof and suitable for both return hoses and as a suction feed pipe to the pump.
I've been soaking a smaple in LHM for over a week now with no ill effects. Usually incompatible material shows signs of distress quite rapidly.
Silicone hose, being softish, should be good for when both ends have differing spigot sizes...
I believe the hose is available in green
Meant to say, in connection with the steering return, colourful silicone hose as used by those who like to detail their engine bays is LHM-proof and suitable for both return hoses and as a suction feed pipe to the pump.
I've been soaking a smaple in LHM for over a week now with no ill effects. Usually incompatible material shows signs of distress quite rapidly.
Silicone hose, being softish, should be good for when both ends have differing spigot sizes...
I believe the hose is available in green

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I got mine from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Venair-Perform ... ub=3636660
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Thanks lexi.... Looked at cam belt tensioner kits on the bay for later v6s and almost fell off my chair at 200 quid.... Redicilious price!!
My girl doesnt hesitate but has a continious miss fire.. Like a weak petrol mix. Ive fitted another temp sensor so will have to wait and see now what shes like when i get her back together....
My girl doesnt hesitate but has a continious miss fire.. Like a weak petrol mix. Ive fitted another temp sensor so will have to wait and see now what shes like when i get her back together....
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A bit more progress done...
Heres the pipes now they are both repainted, and Ive fitted them back on, and put the fuse box all back together too...


Should last me a few more years now...
As for removing the Drivers drive shaft... I manages to get the "Hockey Stick" screws moved out the way, but was that shaft bearing comming out!! ... NO!
Split the bottom arm easyilly enough, and got the shaft out the hub.. ABS Ring looks completely buggered too, covered in rust.. Ill have a go at cleaning that up when the shaft is out.. When it comes out!
Paul
Heres the pipes now they are both repainted, and Ive fitted them back on, and put the fuse box all back together too...


Should last me a few more years now...
As for removing the Drivers drive shaft... I manages to get the "Hockey Stick" screws moved out the way, but was that shaft bearing comming out!! ... NO!
Split the bottom arm easyilly enough, and got the shaft out the hub.. ABS Ring looks completely buggered too, covered in rust.. Ill have a go at cleaning that up when the shaft is out.. When it comes out!
Paul
Last edited by citroenxm on 24 Sep 2013, 19:14, edited 1 time in total.
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When I did my timing belt 18 months ago, by much internet searching, I got all the parts including belt, rollers, water pump and later tensioner for just under £200. I will see if I can track down the company with the cheap tensioner kits.
I don't think the A/C pipes (except perhaps the pipes to the compressor) are unique to the V6.
I don't think the A/C pipes (except perhaps the pipes to the compressor) are unique to the V6.
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V6_xantia, That would be really good...

Yes, the condenser pipe to dryer which is joind by unioins is different to TD ones.
As the dryer in TD engines is right by the radiator, wHere as the V6 is over behind the ECU box by the screen wash filler... like S2 models.
Ive got some TD flexi short hoses, but they do not match up.. The HDi setup I had I put on my Black TD SX car...
May have to try and match and fit..
Paul


Yes, the condenser pipe to dryer which is joind by unioins is different to TD ones.
As the dryer in TD engines is right by the radiator, wHere as the V6 is over behind the ECU box by the screen wash filler... like S2 models.
Ive got some TD flexi short hoses, but they do not match up.. The HDi setup I had I put on my Black TD SX car...
May have to try and match and fit..

Paul