Changing LH brake cable

[c.morewood]

I've just read the Haynes manual's version on how to change a front brake cable. Do I really have to remove the exhaust and heatshields to do this?
I was hoping I might be able to access the primary/secondary cable connection from inside.
Any advice woudl be appreciated.
Thanks,

[andmcit]

Not only do Haynes need you to remove the exhaust and heatshield,
but the rear wheels, bumper and wiper motor too...

They do like to overreact a bit and it's perfectly possible to unclip and remount
the end of the cable onto the handbrake mechanism - careful routing is the
only real PITA of the job. Yes, the heatshield will want to be in the way but a
bit of a tug and being dexterous will keep the job straightforward and not the
lengthy process it could be doing everything as per the full drawn out pukka
the-business-user-can-pay workshop procedure.

Andrew

[RichardW]

Exhaust only needs to come off to do the primary cable from the lever to the equaliser on the passenger side of he central tunnel - the individual cables are easy to change with minimal dismantling. The HDi 110 is even easier, as there is less heatshield to get in the way - I think I did it without removing it all!

[Jeff]

FROM A PREVIOUS THREAD..

On my C5 (2001) I started off with the n/s H/Brake caliper sticking around December 2009. It released itself after braking a few times but not before I could smell the aroma of burning pads. I later took off the wheel and eased the caliper H/B mechanism (or so I thought at the time). Exactly a year later same thing except the H/Brake cable was jammed tight once pulled. I then had to put the car suspension on highest setting, park with the front n/s wheel chocked against the kerb and manually pull the caliper h/brake levers back to release both brakes. Again it was freezing conditions. What’s happening is the old h/b cables have allowed water into the tubes (water spray off the wheels) which cause corrosion which then freezes in the sub zero conditions jamming the cables.

I wont go into my tale of woe fully, but from what I have learned…the best way of sorting this out properly is to order new guide tubes from Citroën (£18.75 each including VAT), new handbrake cables from a motor factor (£10 each including VAT, Citroën wanted £42.50 each + VAT!). With the car up on a ramp the guide tubes are fiddly to replace but if your reasonably competent at DIY should be okay. There is one bracket on each tube just inside each wheel arch but you need to remove the fasteners to the exhaust heat shield and move side to side for accessing where each tube enters the underside of the car / appearing inside in the centre console. You also need to drop down a bracket that supports the exhaust (couple of 10mm nuts). The heat shield can be reshaped when refitting the fasteners if you bend it a bit, its just like thick foil. I suppose it would be possible to do this on axle stands but it was fiddly enough up on a mate’s garage ramp that I borrowed.

The new handbrake cables come greased internally ready for fitting but worth greasing the outside sheathing so they slide into the guide tubes easier and also fill the tubes (wheel side) with lots of grease to prevent water getting in. The handbrake inside the car can be accessed by pulling out the console rear ashtray/storage thing and undoing a couple of 10mm nuts then lifting the console up enough to get at where the handbrake nipples link onto the handbrake mechanism. You can slacken / tighten the handbrake cables with a nut on the back of the H/Brake.

Replacing the guides and cables will probably solve your problems but its also possible that a caliper is faulty. If you remove the caliper and squirt oil down the shaft of the lever (or remove the lever itself) and let the oil soak in there with the caliper upright. Refit the caliper and then work the lever back and fore to free stiffness. If the caliper handbrake mechanism is still faulty then a reconditioned caliper can be obtained for just under £80 from a motor factor. A brand new one will be hundreds from main dealer.

When fitting a new or reconditioned caliper with the handbrake lever on the side it is VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE LEVER IS NOT MOVED BEFORE FITTING AS THIS CAN UPSET THE MECHANISM NEEDING SPECIALIST REPAIR.
To fit you should:
1 Check new caliper will fit over existing pads, there is a pin on the back of the pads that fits into the centre of the piston, so you should leave enough space to go over pin. (Nearside caliper piston winds in Clockwise and offside caliper winds in anti-clockwise).
2 Wind the caliper on to the hydraulic brake hose and fit over pads (when removing the old caliper you may want to clingfilm the fluid reservoir to minimise fluid loss)
3 Bleed the system and pump brakes up half a dozen times
4 Connect handbrake cable
5 Work handbrake 20 times
6 Set handbrake to 5 notches
7 Adjust handbrake cable via adjuster nut until the front wheels lock.

On my C5 having just replaced the guide tubes and handbrake cables, inside the car with the console up when the handbrake is released I can see both cables smoothly moving down into the guide tubes (and down to the calipers). End of cable releasing problem.

[andmcit]

Brilliant thorough explanation.
Are we talking about a Xantia though not a C5?




Andrew

[Jeff]

I am referring to a C5 only.

[c.morewood]

Thanks for the replies.. managed it today without too much hassle.. had to remove the heatshield (fairly easy) to get to the equaliser and the rest was pretty straight forward.. sounds like the C5 operation is fairly similar to the Xantia.
I was planning on changing the gearbox oil at the same time but couldn't find a square section to fit the drain plug so it'll have to wait for another time.
Does anyone know the size of the square section key?