Xsara Picasso Towbar Fitting
Moderator: RichardW
Xsara Picasso Towbar Fitting
Hi, any advice, tips etc on the electrics cable entries etc. I fitted the bar in the summer as needed to use it for the trailer but never got around to the electrics, so thought it was about time I wired it in! Happy New Year Alec.
Current Car
C5 Estate VTR 1.6HDi 2005 S2
Previous French Cars
Pug 205 Gti 1.6 1985.
Xantia Estate LX 2000 90bhp HDi
Xsara Picasso VTX 1.6 HDi (92) 2007
C5 Estate VTR 1.6HDi 2005 S2
Previous French Cars
Pug 205 Gti 1.6 1985.
Xantia Estate LX 2000 90bhp HDi
Xsara Picasso VTX 1.6 HDi (92) 2007
- quintet
- Donor 2023
- Posts: 311
- Joined: 14 Apr 2010, 21:51
- Location: northwest
- My Cars: 2.0 hdi Peugeot 307
- x 41
Will you be using a genuine Citroen wiring kit? it'll make life easier as it's basically a plug in & play set up, i 'think' there might be the odd wire that'll need splicing in but it's been a while since i done one (i might have some instructions at work, not too sure). As for the wire routing i used to neatly wrap all the wiring in insulation tape & secure it to the vehicle/tow bar & run it to the n/s of the car (over & away from the exhaust) & then if you have a look under the (n/s) rear corner of the car you'll see what appears to be basically a black plastic vented panel, i used to feed the wiring up & above this as it leads the wiring towards the lamp cluster thus no hole drilling will be required for the wiring . It's a tad fiddly feeding the wiring harness up the inside of the n/s/r corner of the car to lamp cluster but it's nothing that a wire coat-hanger can't resolve. You'll need to do the same thing for the wiring plug going to the o/s/r lamp unit.
One other thing to bear in mind, tow bars (security) are now inspected during the MOT & whilst the wiring it's self isn't directly part of the MOT it's routing may well be inspected as will the operation of the rear lights, another good reason to use the genuine kit = no chance of poor/dodgy splices affecting the operation of your rear lights.
One other thing to bear in mind, tow bars (security) are now inspected during the MOT & whilst the wiring it's self isn't directly part of the MOT it's routing may well be inspected as will the operation of the rear lights, another good reason to use the genuine kit = no chance of poor/dodgy splices affecting the operation of your rear lights.
Music keeps me going.
Cheers quintet, didn't know you could get a plug n play kit. I have just bought a length of cable and some scotch locks but I will look at getting a genuine loom if the price isn't too ridiculous. I bought the bar of ebay "ready to wire in" only to find the cable must have been cut just as it enters the car going by your cable entry description. Thanks for the advice I will take it all on board and use it wisely.
Current Car
C5 Estate VTR 1.6HDi 2005 S2
Previous French Cars
Pug 205 Gti 1.6 1985.
Xantia Estate LX 2000 90bhp HDi
Xsara Picasso VTX 1.6 HDi (92) 2007
C5 Estate VTR 1.6HDi 2005 S2
Previous French Cars
Pug 205 Gti 1.6 1985.
Xantia Estate LX 2000 90bhp HDi
Xsara Picasso VTX 1.6 HDi (92) 2007
Is this what I need?
http://www.pfjones.co.uk/xsara-picasso- ... 9-348.html
http://www.pfjones.co.uk/xsara-picasso- ... 9-348.html
Current Car
C5 Estate VTR 1.6HDi 2005 S2
Previous French Cars
Pug 205 Gti 1.6 1985.
Xantia Estate LX 2000 90bhp HDi
Xsara Picasso VTX 1.6 HDi (92) 2007
C5 Estate VTR 1.6HDi 2005 S2
Previous French Cars
Pug 205 Gti 1.6 1985.
Xantia Estate LX 2000 90bhp HDi
Xsara Picasso VTX 1.6 HDi (92) 2007
- quintet
- Donor 2023
- Posts: 311
- Joined: 14 Apr 2010, 21:51
- Location: northwest
- My Cars: 2.0 hdi Peugeot 307
- x 41
To be honest the only wiring kits I've used are the genuine ones so i cant say how good the PF Jones kit is, however if it comes with a relay to operate the 2nd socket (2nd socket is used for caravans electric units inside it, fridge/freezer additional battery etc) then that might actually be better as the citroen 'spilt charge' relay kits i had to (begrudgingly!) fit weren't too clever as they were designed for the likes of ax's/bx's/xantia's etc + the genuine kits do not come with dash mounted warning lights and/or an audible bleeper -
(quote taken PF Jones link you posted)
• Dedicated wiring kits operate three types of warning device (model dependant), audible bleeper, visual dash warning light when indicating and the original indicator warning light will flash at twice the usual rate when a trailer indicator has failed.
- although the indicators still utilise their regular 'clicking sound'. If it were my car & i was simply going to only tow a small trailer (or similar) then I'd certainly opt for the genuine citroen kit, if your gonna require a split charger for using on a caravan then the PF Jones one might well be more suitable, just make sure its suitable for using on a car with 'multiplex' electrics which is what your car has. What ever you opt for do not cut into the wiring on your car, multiplex wiring often doesn't take kindly to this sort of treatment, using the dreaded 'scotch-locks' are big big no no in my opinion, if you must cut into the wiring solder the joints, strictly speaking though you should use 'raychem' joint connectors but you'll need a heatgun with an adaptor on the end to heat/melt the 'raychem' connector.
(quote taken PF Jones link you posted)
• Dedicated wiring kits operate three types of warning device (model dependant), audible bleeper, visual dash warning light when indicating and the original indicator warning light will flash at twice the usual rate when a trailer indicator has failed.
- although the indicators still utilise their regular 'clicking sound'. If it were my car & i was simply going to only tow a small trailer (or similar) then I'd certainly opt for the genuine citroen kit, if your gonna require a split charger for using on a caravan then the PF Jones one might well be more suitable, just make sure its suitable for using on a car with 'multiplex' electrics which is what your car has. What ever you opt for do not cut into the wiring on your car, multiplex wiring often doesn't take kindly to this sort of treatment, using the dreaded 'scotch-locks' are big big no no in my opinion, if you must cut into the wiring solder the joints, strictly speaking though you should use 'raychem' joint connectors but you'll need a heatgun with an adaptor on the end to heat/melt the 'raychem' connector.
Music keeps me going.