Citroen C5 2.0 Hdi High Pressure Diesel Pump

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citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 70

Post by citroenxm »

Firstly we need to know what your car is.

The MPG figures are ok for a Xantia for example, but awfull for a 206/C3 HDi....

Is the 307 a 1.4 HDi or a 2.o HDi.. As long as the pumps LOOK the same there should NOT be a problem. I know someone who fitted a 2.o 8v HDi pump to a 2.2 16v S1 Engine.. and it worked fine!

You CAN leave the cam belt in place when you remove the pump. Undo the pump bolt, drive a wedge between the pully and pump body the pully will stay in place roughly as there enough of an edge for it to sit on, then if your carefull you can get it back in place.

I locked the Cam and crank for safe being - just incase.


Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
mattblack
Posts: 4
Joined: 26 Jan 2011, 19:20
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Post by mattblack »

My car is a citroen c5 2.0 8v hdi exclusive, the 406 and 307 were both 2.0 litres. Have you ever heard of anyone having any problems doing this before?
What did you use to lock the timing? Have seen expensive tool sets on eBay, but in the past on other cars I have just used bolts.
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 70

Post by citroenxm »

Exactley the same... The crank is an 8mm rod same as the older XUD and the Cam locked with a 8mm bolt, but the Cam bolt does NOT screw in like the XUD, just push's in.

Pump swaps should not cause a single problem, as the only thing it does is pressure the fuel in the fuel rail above the injectors. No Lexia was needed IIRC

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
mattblack
Posts: 4
Joined: 26 Jan 2011, 19:20
Location:
My Cars:

Post by mattblack »

Thanks Paul
One more thing, would you recommend changing the regulator on the end of the pump, or is the pressure controlled by the ecu?
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 70

Post by citroenxm »

Leave it, but thats also a swappable thing without upsetting the ECU...

You'll know when thats dead as the engine will NOT stop on the key.....

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
SJE32
Posts: 13
Joined: 18 Dec 2010, 22:25
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Re: Same problem, need your advice

Post by SJE32 »

mattblack wrote:Hi, firstly thanks for writting such a detailed procedure, very helpful.
Can you please give me some advice on the following as I have the same problem.
Did you use any special tools to lock the timing, or did you just use a couple of bolts through the crankshaft and camshaft pullies? Am I right to assume that a diesel pump on a common rail system does not require to be set up/timed as this would be controlled by the injectors?

I have acquired a diesel pump from a 406 and a 307, these look the same as the C5 pump but have different part numbers, can anyone advise if there is significant differences? I'm guessing that the system on a newer (307) may operate at a high pressure and may damage older injectors, would swapping the injectors as well as the pump solve this or am I better servicing the pump I have?

Finally, mine seemed to start leaking really bad after an oil change, and has since not been leaking as badly, although still suspect there's a leak there. Could this problem be linked to an oil change? As this was done over winter, could the cold weather have affected it?

One more final thought, under acceleration my mpg now drops to around 17, but at 50mph it's up to around 50mpg, do these this figures sound like I have a leak? Also, over 65 mph I sometimes get a vibration that feels like unballanced wheels. As this is only an intermittent problem is there any chance this could be linked to poor fuelling?

Appreciate any help/pointers on the above.

Matt
Hello Matt

I will answer your questions as best as I can

Q. Did you use any special tools to lock the timing……..

A. No I did not I used 8 mm bolts, also when taking it all out, I did not remove the whole belt, I just locked the cams and then slide the belt off the pump wheel, after undoing the pump wheel nut, I used a locking bar to hold the pulley when undoing the nut. Not hard to do just give yourself enough time and light to do it all by.

Q. Am I right to assume that a diesel pump on a common rail system does not require to be set up

A. Correct it only pressurises the fuel above the rail, so no need for timing up. (This would have stopped me doing it if it were this way)

Q. I have acquired a diesel pump from a 406 and a 307…..

A. This depends on your model, if you have a pump from a 1.4 406 then it will not work for a 2.0 Hdi C5 the sensor fittings outside are different for a start, and they do not look the same as the photos in my thread. The pump you say you have has a different number, well according the to the folks that sent me the seals, they advise against putting a CP2 or CP3 if the pump was a CP1 as it does have different running pressures not only for intake but also for output, it was enough advice to make me decide to service the pump that was on the car and not use a different model number one.

Q. Start leaking really bad after an oil change….

A. I am not sure why that would be as the pump does not get any oil from the engine. I found my leak by blowing compressed air around the pump as this then drew the fuel from under the top sensor plate showing me where the leak was from.

Q. 50mph it's up to around 50mpg.

A. If I got 50 and 50 I would be happy, mine is around 38 to 40.

I hope the answers help. But as anything I am no expert only relating what I did with mine.
mattblack
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Post by mattblack »

Hi , thanks again for the info. Have checked my pumps and the following numbers match:
CR/CP1S3/R65/10-16s
0445010046
However, these don't:
02.10.30 C 06208 7 210317 5
Think the later numbers may just be batch numbers but have no idea.

Based on what I've read I think I will swap the pumps & see how it goes, unless someone knows that the second set of numbers need to match?

Thanks again.
SJE32
Posts: 13
Joined: 18 Dec 2010, 22:25
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Post by SJE32 »

mattblack wrote:Hi , thanks again for the info. Have checked my pumps and the following numbers match:
CR/CP1S3/R65/10-16s
0445010046
However, these don't:
02.10.30 C 06208 7 210317 5
Think the later numbers may just be batch numbers but have no idea.

Based on what I've read I think I will swap the pumps & see how it goes, unless someone knows that the second set of numbers need to match?

Thanks again.
That looks like batch numbers USA standard.

02.10.30 (UK DATE 30 Oct 2002) C 06208 7 210317 5 (most likey production run numbers)
fynnbar
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Post by fynnbar »

The CP1/R65 serial nos. are the ones that matter, so you're fine
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