Dropped a socket

panason1c · Post by **panason1c** » 17 Nov 2010, 17:54

Hi, It is possible to patch weld repair the alloy casing, there are specialist alloy welders who could do this. Many years ago i had similar damage to my triumph bonny alloy chain cover repaired by a specialist welder.

spider · Post by **spider** » 17 Nov 2010, 18:22

I did consider mentioning that but the thing is if the socket has been flying around inside the transmission, who knows what damage could of been done

Having said that, if a 'patch' is cheap enough its down to the OP to weigh up the risk and decide...

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 17 Nov 2010, 18:39

i would see if you can get it welded up if you know someone local to you,

otherwise there is a company in Hastings called Hastings sheet metal works,

here is there web address

http://www.hastingsmotorsheetmetalworks.com/

they are very good and restor/rebuild classic cars

i always stand back in amazment at what projects they have on when i go in there,

i think i would try swilling the box out with some clean petrol first

regards malcolm

tobsta · Post by **tobsta** » 17 Nov 2010, 19:58

thanks guys for your advice, im going to see if my local welder can do the job. Unfortunatly i have to go back to work tomorrow so i'll pop in on my lunch break.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 18 Nov 2010, 14:07

Did you find the chunk of metal from the gearbox casing? I would worry about where that is! I would be tempted to take it to bits and just replace that bit of the casing, and check for any other damage at the same time. It's not as difficult as you might think, particuarly with Jim's excellent BE3 guide. Pity, I just chucked out a BE3 casing.

tobsta · Post by **tobsta** » 19 Nov 2010, 19:25

got it back from the welders today and its looking really good. Tomorrow i'll be giving it a good flush out before putting it all back together.

happy daze

tobsta · Post by **tobsta** » 19 Nov 2010, 21:29

Yes i did find the shattered remains of the hole. The clutch smashed it to bits. it was all round the bell housing.

tobsta · Post by **tobsta** » 19 Nov 2010, 21:38

Im a bit concerned about how to line up the clutch with the gearbox. Where is that funny shaped thing on the clutch suppose to be when i try and fit the box?

Im sure these things have names but i've had a few pints of cider...

help

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 19 Nov 2010, 22:55

It's a bit of a fiddle. You want the thingy in the middle of the clutch aligned in such a way that the 2 prongs of the fork can slide in behind as you push the gearbox forward. You should see what I mean when you look at the thingy on the clutch. The first time I did this I had 2 people holding the box from above, and I made sure the fork engaged whilst under the car. The second time I got it by myself, possibly just pot luck. I would recommend removing the speedo drive housing, I did this second time around and it was definitely easier.

Are you doing the clutch at the same time? I would also highly recommend replacing the 2 plastic bushes at the top and bottom of the fork on the gearbox. They cost peanuts and make the clutch feel a lot smoother.

panason1c · Post by **panason1c** » 20 Nov 2010, 12:19

tobsta wrote:Im a bit concerned about how to line up the clutch with the gearbox. Where is that funny shaped thing on the clutch suppose to be when i try and fit the box?

Im sure these things have names but i've had a few pints of cider...

help

It would be wise to check the condition of the clutch plate and the thrust bearing before putting it all back together, (check the thrust bearing spins smoothly and quietly when you spin it by hand)..............you dont want to be doing the job over again in a few months because of clutch failure.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 20 Nov 2010, 13:35

the trick to ehgadging/disengadging the fork out of anf back into the thrust bearing is,

remove the clutch actuatting arm before you pull the box away from the engine, in doing this the clutch fork/spindle will rotate to facilitate the fork prongs in and out of the thrust bearing,

regards malcolm

Post by **CitroJim** » 20 Nov 2010, 16:02

Great to hear all is looking good tobsta. I almost cried with you when I read it

This guide here, although written for a Xantia, is fully applicable.

It's not a difficult job as you can "sight" the forks engaging with the bearing and rotate them in.

The trick is to remove the arm as Malcolm says, and to use a screwdriver through the hole in the shaft to give you some useful leverage to rotate the forks into place.

By far the harder job is to get the splines of the first motion shaft engaged with the splines on the clutch driven plate. Sometimes they pop in a treat first go and other times, well, they cab be just a complete *******

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 20 Nov 2010, 16:43

if removed i usualy re/line the clutch drive plate back up by feeling though the side opennings in the presure plate, you can feel the edge of the clutch drive plate at three poitns evenly spaced around the presure plate, get the plate even at all three points,

regards malcolm

tobsta · Post by **tobsta** » 21 Nov 2010, 15:39

All welded up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/tobstacoope ... 4156327906
Thanks for all your advice people, I checked the thrush bearing and all is smooth.
It was very tricky lining up the clutch but i managed to do it with a long screwdriver and my bro holding the weight.
The hard part was like you said citrojim trying to get the splines to slot together. In the end i put in the n/s driveshaft, put it in gear and wressled the box whilst twisting the shaft.

Today i flushed out the box twice and took it out for a slow drive and all is good so far.

Thank peeps.

Post by **CitroJim** » 21 Nov 2010, 16:29

Excellent news