Xantia blowers

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 01 Oct 2010, 12:33

The 2000 Xantia should have the blower relay.

To save you wire-pulling troubles, next to try is to plumb the red and black wires of the plug straight into the motor.
If it doesn’t spin, it can only be the fuse, the feed and earth wires, the relay or the switch.
When you turn the key to ignition without starting, you should hear the relay click somewhere above the pedals.
If it clicks, the switch is good, and at least half of the relay too.

There is no safe and fused feed inside or under the dash that can handle the blower current, except for the existing blower feed and fuse, but don’t know the fuse number for the Mk II.

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 01 Oct 2010, 13:06

I've been told some early mk2s didn't get the relay

trooper30 · Post by **trooper30** » 01 Oct 2010, 14:45

Clogzz wrote:The 2000 Xantia should have the blower relay.

To save you wire-pulling troubles, next to try is to plumb the red and black wires of the plug straight into the motor.
If it doesn’t spin, it can only be the fuse, the feed and earth wires, the relay or the switch.

Right folowed your advice tried that and no power, fan didnt kick in. I know the motor if fine as had it spinning with my now melted lighter plug. Also the relay isnt clicking at all at any time. And have checked every fues in the fusebox and there all good.

Oh and I found a relay in the box next to the airbox in the engine compartment. looked and fitted exactly the same as the one in the drivers footwell, so I tried it in there and no difference and no clicking

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 01 Oct 2010, 15:52

some early mk2s didn't get the relay

Also read of that, and even of factory relays dangled inside the steering shrouds, but expected the 2000 vintage to be sorted.

no clicking

That points to the switch.
To check you would need a test lamp, or multimeter, or wire on tongue meter.

Despite writing higher up the thread that you’re lost with red and black wires, it looks like you’ve progressed very fast since, and are very keen to graduate to at least a test lamp to master the invisible and fascinating science of the electrons.

To go further, we would need to find out if there’s voltage on pin 85 or 86 of the relay socket with the key set to ignition.
Back tomorrow.

trooper30 · Post by **trooper30** » 02 Oct 2010, 12:37

Right tested that using my tongue meter.

There is no power on Pin 85 but there is power on pin 86 if that gives any clues?

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 02 Oct 2010, 14:34

Yes, that gives a very good clue, and I’m impressed with your tongue meter.

It means that the feed gets to the relay coil, so next we’re suspecting the switch.
Before going to the switch, we check that the feed from the battery gets to the relay socket, and that the socket passes the feed on to the motor.

Pin 30 should have the battery feed, and using a thick wire you short it to pin 87, which goes to the motor.
If it spins, we still suspect the switch, and if it doesn’t, we check for power at the blower fuse in the under-dash fuse box.

If you can push the relay into the socket just enough to still reach pins 86 & 85 with the wire of the tongue meter, you can then check what the switch does.
With the key set to ‘off’, you should have power on both pins 86 & 85.
If there’s no power on 85, the relay coil is open, not likely since you swapped relays.

With the key set to ignition, there must be power on 86 but nothing on 85.
If there’s power on 85, the switch does nothing, and is faulty.

That part of the switch also operates the rear window demister timer, which is a sort of relay.
If it doesn’t heat with the engine running and the blower relay taken out, it will again be the switch.
If it does heat, we’re looking at the wrong relay.

Enjoy a good fiddle.

trooper30 · Post by **trooper30** » 03 Oct 2010, 11:51

Been fiddling all morning, folowed your advice

When i shorted pin 30 and 87 was amazed to see that the fanr bust into life, all fan speen controlls workin just as then should
What i have done is shorted them with a piece of 27amp wire which is gettign a little warm but by no means is gettign hot.

So at this stage there no relay in not in it, pin 30 and 87 bridged, only thing wrong is the rear demister click off times aint there with the relay being out.
But at leat its all working like if should after 7 week of not working

Am debating weather to carry on finding the problem or to just make save the 87/30 pin bridge and be happy its all working..

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 03 Oct 2010, 14:44

A short length of 27A wire is more than good enough, and better than my long 20A wire that never got too hot.

The rear demister not working isn’t caused by the lack of relay because that relay does the blower motor only.
The ignition switch has a contact that does blower and rear demister, and it’s in the habit of failing.

The wire from the faulty contact goes to the fuse box, where it can be transferred to another switched wire, but we would need a Mk II fuse list for that.

Enjoy the breeze !

trooper30 · Post by **trooper30** » 03 Oct 2010, 14:57

The wife is so pleased it all working again, thanks for your advice help and your patience getting this done, so pleased it sorted.

Thanks again.