Hi all just a quick update
Got the car back late yesterday and i really thought i had the problem solved.
The car now starts and runs very quietly with no "pinking" that had been there previously.The static timing was indeed out and this has now been rectified FOC
However after a good long run with no problems a really bad potted road produced the same old rattle,again at the same rev band
Once again it returns to being quiet as a mouse with no smoke etc (even when making the rattle.)
Unfortunately due to the late ness of collecting the car i have been unable to contact Mike so it looks like a diagnostic session is going to be put on hold for a while.
I have noticed that the negative battery terminal connection is loose even when tightened fully,so much so that i can virtually lift it off without undoing it.I have had the car running and lifted the neg lead to the top of the terminal and not noticed any change in engine noise so this is being replaced later today.I am also going to remove the pump plug again and check for dirty connections etc.
Thanks for all your help so far
Colin
Fuelling Problem Xantia 2.1 TD 1998 Lucas Epic Pump
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Colin,
Pleased to hear the static timing adjustment seems to have made some difference
You know, it has to be electrical if it happens when going over a bump.
Check the needle lift sensor connector. Looking at my old 2.1TD at the weekend it reminded me they can suffer damage and intermittent connections. Going over bumps may just dislodge it for a moment and if it momentarily loses the signal a knock could well result...
Doesn't explain the fuel gauge though
Did sorting out the battery negative clamp help?
Pleased to hear the static timing adjustment seems to have made some difference
You know, it has to be electrical if it happens when going over a bump.
Check the needle lift sensor connector. Looking at my old 2.1TD at the weekend it reminded me they can suffer damage and intermittent connections. Going over bumps may just dislodge it for a moment and if it momentarily loses the signal a knock could well result...
Doesn't explain the fuel gauge though
Did sorting out the battery negative clamp help?
Jim
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Right im keeping my fingers crossed in saying this but ......................
Have now driven the car for 60 miles with no rattles of any sort since i did the following
1. Replaced the loose negative battery clamp
2. Unplugged and replugged the pump connections and refitted a missing bolt (2 bolts are needed to hold the pump connections to the ECU box)
3.Not sure if this has/could have made any difference but have found a plug that appears to need to be held onto something as it has the slot in it hanging loose.This has been cable tied as in the first picture ans the second shows where it runs
Plug circled and its wire
Plug and wire circled again showing it diving towards the injectors
Apologies for the paint splashes,must try harder next time
Sorry Jim,was out taking pics when you posted but im hoping that maybe the battery connection and or plug i cabled tied could be causes of the rattle,only time will tell
Colin
Have now driven the car for 60 miles with no rattles of any sort since i did the following
1. Replaced the loose negative battery clamp
2. Unplugged and replugged the pump connections and refitted a missing bolt (2 bolts are needed to hold the pump connections to the ECU box)
3.Not sure if this has/could have made any difference but have found a plug that appears to need to be held onto something as it has the slot in it hanging loose.This has been cable tied as in the first picture ans the second shows where it runs
Plug circled and its wire
Plug and wire circled again showing it diving towards the injectors
Apologies for the paint splashes,must try harder next time
Sorry Jim,was out taking pics when you posted but im hoping that maybe the battery connection and or plug i cabled tied could be causes of the rattle,only time will tell
Colin
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The connector you have circled is indeed the needle lift sensor Colin and yes, it must be well supported.
Ditto the ECU connector. If only one bolt is in it then it will tend to drift sideways and the connections could get intermittent.
Good stuff, lot's of fingers crossed here
Ditto the ECU connector. If only one bolt is in it then it will tend to drift sideways and the connections could get intermittent.
Good stuff, lot's of fingers crossed here
Jim
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You will find a Lexia session on an EPIC interesting and entertaining, especially when doing the actuator testsadmiral51 wrote:Mike regardless of any returning rattle or otherwise i would still like to have the car Lexiad if still possable
Colin
The governor test that revs it to 3,000 rpm and holds it there until you press the brake pedal is an interesting one, as is the timing test. Now that WILL make it knock
There is a heck of a lot of live data to watch...
Jim
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Really stupid question time................CitroJim wrote:
There is a heck of a lot of live data to watch...
What data do you compare the live data to,is it in the software in the Lexia ,ie it has a graph to compare against the live data etc
See told you it was a stupid question
Now things seem to be ok not sure if i want to try that oneCitroJim wrote:
as is the timing test. Now that WILL make it knock
It had indeed drifted sideways and it was a bit tricky to get in,guess thats why it was missingCitroJim wrote:
Ditto the ECU connector. If only one bolt is in it then it will tend to drift sideways and the connections could get intermittent.
I had to unbolt the ECU box and lift it up to get proper access to put the inner bolt in then rebolt the box back down.Just as well i have 2 old coffee jars full of bolts removed from various Xantias.They happen to be the same size as the bolts that hold the front wings on
Colin
CitroJim wrote:You will find a Lexia session on an EPIC interesting and entertaining, especially when doing the actuator testsadmiral51 wrote:Mike regardless of any returning rattle or otherwise i would still like to have the car Lexiad if still possable
Colin
The governor test that revs it to 3,000 rpm and holds it there until you press the brake pedal is an interesting one, as is the timing test. Now that WILL make it knock
There is a heck of a lot of live data to watch...
I know what you meen jim, I got a little nervous when DickyG done my 406 2.1 (before it was swapped to Bosch), I'm sure his neighbors loved it at 8am on a Sunday.
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C4 2010 2.0 HDi Exclusive VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] - x 378
Righty ho final update i hope
Car has now been driven just shy of 200 miles and not one,not even a hint of any rattle and i have been a little enthusiastic in my attempts to get it to reapear
Yes the static timing was out and needed to done,a big thankyou to Sir Jim for the destructions
I think the dodgy connections were responsible and should have been double and triple checked by myself
As for the fuel guage playing up at the same time who knows,probably just the usual Citroen trait of sending you down the wrong path
Thanks to all for the input and advice,i live and learn
Colin
Car has now been driven just shy of 200 miles and not one,not even a hint of any rattle and i have been a little enthusiastic in my attempts to get it to reapear
Yes the static timing was out and needed to done,a big thankyou to Sir Jim for the destructions
I think the dodgy connections were responsible and should have been double and triple checked by myself
As for the fuel guage playing up at the same time who knows,probably just the usual Citroen trait of sending you down the wrong path
Thanks to all for the input and advice,i live and learn
Colin