XUD tensioner washer

[spider]

This 'is' a silly question but...

The XUD tensioner's upper fixing, there's a wave washer and a large plain washer.

See this picture to identify:

Please IGNORE red / green markings, nothing to do with me, only blue one is mine.



Please note this pic is not mine, I found it and changed it slightly as it shows what I mean incase of any confusion, the area I have highlighted in blue

My question, should there be a wash underneath the tensioner between the tensioner and the plate ? (as in to act as a 'spacer') ?

The order should be > wave washer / large washer / tensioner

Or > wave washer > large washer / tensioner / large washer

I think not, but there's something playing on my mind about this, as I'm 75% sure the large washer was under the tensioner when I took it apart however it was going dark , but logic would suggest not. As I'm replacing the tensioner I'm going to put it infront of it (as every pic I can see has it like this)

Mainly wondering if there should be a 'spacer' one underneath it too.

[citronut]

no no no spider,

if/when there are two washers the thicker flat one should be against the outter face of the tensioner back plate then the wavey easher,

no spacers or anything between the back plate and the block at all,

the other thought is there a washer behind the nut/bolt at tjhe back plate pivot rear of the tensioner pulley, as that might be were the wavvy washer comes from,

regards malcolm

[spider]

Thanks.

I thought there should be nothing behind it (as it would be out of line)

Just had an hour outside putting it back (plunger holding tool does not fit 205 properly due to bolts too long to clear inner wing) so a bit of entertainment putting it on

All done anyway.

[the_weaver]

Andy

Did you use the plunger holding tool in the end, or were you able to push the plunger in with you hand or a lever?

Paul

[spider]

I had to do it by hand.

And it was quite unpleasant

The tool will (should) fit yours as there is space to do it properly.

Method I used:

Disclaimer: Fingers / engines / springs do not mix, caution

Having mounting off, insert spring and plunger. Bear in mind my plunger was seized again so I 'had' to take it off.

Set tensioner roller about midway (only so its 'level')

Holding plunger in with a finger, attempt to put in place (get the plunger to touch the arm so it cannot fall off) , ignore alignment at this stage just gently sit plunger onto tensioner 'arm' where it should live.

At this stage, very carefully hold the mounting and attempt to fit the tiny top bolt (the one going from the engine side outwards) , just fit it about 3 turns.

Insert piece of wood between inner wing and mounting lower. This is because if the mounting moves 'out' (towards the wing) the plunger will fall out)

While its like that, forcefully twist mounting to align another bolt hole and insert bolt finger tight.

Once it has two diagnostically opposite bolts fitted it cannot move or fall off.

It's not as bad as it sounds, but expect some cursing and allow about half a dozen attempts.

That's the method I used anyway due to lack of space, you could in theory push it from underneath but I find that difficult.

If you can get the tool use it.

Note: The tool replaces the lower two bolt holes, on some cars (Visa (are there any left?) springs to mind if I remember correctly) you cannot use this tool as the lower bolts will NOT come all the way out (they undo and come out with the mount itself)

[citronut]

the trouble i can see with your method is it is possible the strip the threads in the block, whilst trying to alighn the mountting and start the bolts off, with it all under load,

i just bolt the main side lump of the mountting back onto the block fully, then place the tensioner just onto the very beginning of its pivot stud,

front underneath put the plundger into its orafise and push it home as fare as you can with a 18" lever or bar, whilst leavering the tensioner into place with a longer leaver by its spigot the pivot bolt goes through,

regards malcolm

[the_weaver]

I'll have a go at making the plunger holding tool. Hopefully it will work ok on the ZX. If not, I'll try one of the other methods.

Paul

[spider]

I'll have a go at making the plunger holding tool. Hopefully it will work ok on the ZX. If not, I'll try one of the other methods.

Paul

It will work

You can 'test' in advance by verifying that you can remove the bottom two bolts from the mounting (as in you can actually get them out) , there should be enough space on a ZX, I know its a bit tight anyway on that side but should be enough.

Piece of angle iron and a couple of bolts to act as 'pins' are enough (you saw the pics in the other topic anyway)

[the_weaver]

I've had an idea for a slightly different method of holding the tensioner plunger in. What about a two part tool? Tool part 1 is just a piece of angle iron or bent steel plate with no holes in it. Tool part 2 is a piece of flat steel bar about an inch wide with two holes (or open slots) in it which fit the two lower mounting bolts. The idea is to have tool part 1 sliding under tool part 2, with tool part 2 acting as a clamp, secured by the existing two lower mounting bolts. Part 1 is clamped between part 2 and the mount/plunger housing.

The fitting method would be to set the adjuster pinch bolt in the slot to the lowest tension setting. Grease tool part 1 and insert it in between the plunger and the tensioner. Remove the two lower mounting bolts and fit tool part 2 over the top of tool part 1 and then refit the two bolts loosely. Alternatively if tool part 2 has slots instead of holes then just undo the mounting bolts a bit to fit it, leaving the bolts loose. Move the tensioner to a position half way along the slot and retighten the pinch bolt. Tool part 1 should be able to slide under tool part 2 at this point, as the two lower mounting bolts are loose. Tighten the two lower mounting bolts to clamp tool part 2 down onto tool part 1. The plunger should now be held back by the tool and it should be possible to release the tensioner pinch bolt and pivot bolt and remove the tensioner.

Paul

[spider]

I can't quite visualise what you mean, although I think it would work.

Remember all you are trying to do is stop the plunger falling out (as the spring will attempt to push it out) when the tensioner is off.

It is a bit of a fiddle to 'insert' the tool between the flat part of the tensioner and the plunger (a wedge 'end' on the tool may help) but its not difficult.

A thin piece of angle iron or something will do I would guess.

Remember the tool is only to 'help' it is not 100% essential but worth using if you can.

As above, its not the end of the world if it does fall out, but if you can avoid it falling out its well worth an extra 15 minutes of struggling to stop it falling out (or you will be cursing for a while)

Although a bit extreme, a visit to the scrapyard if possible may alleviate your concerns if you can attempt to 'practise' this, although there's a first time for everything. Do not worry you will be able to do it regardless.

[the_weaver]

Andy

I had a look at the plunger/mount today and I can see that the top part between the bolts is not flat. So the clamp idea might not be so good as all the force will be in one place - above the plunger.

What diameter bolts did you use in your tool? The original bolts fitted to the mount are M8. The Haynes manual says to make the tool with M10 bolts, in place of the dowels on the Citroen tool. Well, I tried an M10 bolt in the hole and it doesn't go in. It doesn't slide into the non-threaded clearance hole in the mount. I think I'm going to have to use M8 bolts for the tool. Now I'm wondering whether the tool in the Haynes manual is meant to just slide in or whether it's meant to actually be bolted in using the threads.

Paul

[spider]

It's meant to just slide as far as I know.

The 'dealer' tool is not bolted, I think its just like dowels / rods.

Mine does not bolt in anyway.

[the_weaver]

Right, I'll make a sliding version.

Paul