part numbers

Post by **myglaren** » 26 Apr 2010, 18:06

What about smearing the mating surfaces with grease to preclude any further corrosion? Avoiding the seal. naturally. A dab of LHM should keep that free(ish).

xantia sx auto · Post by **xantia sx auto** » 26 Apr 2010, 20:56

addo wrote:You are turning it the right way, and did manage to find the depressurisation screw?

i de pressurised the system using the bleed screw, it didn't hiss though but i had already put the car right down and left running to return as much fluid as i could, i turned the bleed screw half then a bit more but still no hiss!

I'm trying to turn the sphere the same way i would undo an oil filter, is that correct?

I've been through 2 more tools today and now trying to make my own

is it dangerous to hit with a chisel as they are full of gas???

this is proving to be a real bugger

still not done it and the sphere looks well battered now!!!

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 26 Apr 2010, 21:22

If the sphere is too flat/ruptured, you'll not likely get a hiss as there's no stored pressure.

Do as jim posted with the cold chisel.
I would imagine you're right and the acc sphere has never been changed so will be absolutely solid.

xantia sx auto · Post by **xantia sx auto** » 26 Apr 2010, 21:24

CitroJim wrote:Sometimes, even a sphere tool will fail. I had this on eight out of the ten spheres on my Activa Project.

Then it's time to get serious and arm yourself with a club hammer, a cold chisel and a big punch.

Raise a ridge on the welded seam of the sphere using the cold chisel and club hammer and then, as soon as enough ridge has been raised, use the club hammer and punch to deliver some dead blows to the sphere. This will remove the tightest of the tight...

It seem brutal and dangerous but is perfectly safe to do.

The cause of all this tightness is not the threads but corrosion and muck on the rubber sealing ring. The rubber ring sort of glues itself on over time.

You may find the old sphere is ruptured and full to the brim with LHM.

Replace a sphere only hand-tight and fit the new seal to its groove in the sphere block first before screwing the sphere home. Make sure you don't disturb the seal as you start the new sphere in the threads and then end up nipping the seal.

what kind of punch as i'm doing it from above as there is no room underneath! but obviously i need a long punch to get in as don't want to swing the club hammer in there by the rad.
is the thread normal or left handed as it don't seem to want to move anti clockwise!!!

any idea what i can use as a punch? do you mean the seam on the fattest part of the darn sphere? is it not filled with gas!!!??? sounds a little dodgy!

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 26 Apr 2010, 21:55

I got a pack of 3 different length pry bars, the longest of which is about 50cm, wish I could remember where I got them from, I think it was a market.
They'd be ideal.

You won't split the sphere, just work your way around the seam.

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Apr 2010, 21:58

xantia sx auto wrote: any idea what i can use as a punch? do you mean the seam on the fattest part of the darn sphere? is it not filled with gas!!!??? sounds a little dodgy!

Perhaps punch was the wrong word. A drift might be better term to use. I use a drift with a roughly 3/8" flat tip and about a foot long. Fundamentally, any old piece of steel rod will do. I have an old Morris 8 half-shaft for serious drifting work.

All spheres have normal right-hand threads. If you have any doubt as to which way they should undo, hold a nut and bolt next to the sphere and undo the nut from the bolt. That'll show the direction but basically, normal RH thread that unscrews anti-clockwise.

Honestly, you can really pound a sphere with a drift and you won't puncture it. they are made of thick steel.

Here's a picture of a particularly recalcitrant sphere I removed from my Activa project. It took three attempts and you can see on the seam where I raised three ridges and flattened them again in my removal attempts. That one honestly took serious welly to remove.

So no worries but do mind the rad. I put a piece of ply in front of it so if the worst does happen....

xantia sx auto · Post by **xantia sx auto** » 26 Apr 2010, 22:36

righto many thanks will see what i can find tomorrow and update you, hopefully it'll be 3rd day lucky!!!!

rich

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 26 Apr 2010, 23:26

in all the years i have worked on and around citroens i have never had to resort to this method,

what i have found with a regulator sphere though, is the chain can snag/foul on the triangular ledge/web on the crank case, just in the cornner behind the kneck of the sphere, this gives the impression the sphere is stuck solid,

re/arange the chain at an angle so it is diagnoly around the sphere, so the section of chain behind the sphere is just slightly towards the tip,

regards malcolm

Post by **CitroJim** » 27 Apr 2010, 05:23

citronut wrote:in all the years i have worked on and around citroens i have never had to resort to this method

Yes, absolutely Malcolm, cold chisel and club hammer are definitely methods of last resort after every other way has been tried first..

I'm amazed you've never used this method Malcolm! Mind you, I hadn't until my Activa Project!!!!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 27 Apr 2010, 07:53

Jim wrote
"I'm amazed you've never used this method Malcolm!"

i just use loads of PERCY WHAT SIT Jim,

i find my clamp type removal tool the sames as the PLEIADES version coupled with a smal club hammer works were other fail,

mind you years ago i had used a length of motor bike chain,with both ends threaded through a large ring spanner, then the loop around the sphere

regards malcolm

xantia sx auto · Post by **xantia sx auto** » 28 Apr 2010, 19:44

hi all
A few taps with a bolster today saw the bugger off, new sphere on, even though it's 6 years old it works a treat and boot test worked, plus it ticks once a fornight now instead of every 4 seconds!!
well chuffed, only took 4 days to do but i wish i'd just wacked it on day 1 now instead of killing all my tools!!!

now all i need to do is stop the darn airbag light and make the speedo stop dying!
also does anyone have a good drivers seat available, maybe even a pair of seats as mine are shot but must be cheap,

what would happen if i changed my seats for ones without airbags would the light go off???? or is it a bulb out job!!!
many thanks

xantia sx auto · Post by **xantia sx auto** » 28 Apr 2010, 19:49

p.s wanna do an oil change, what's the easiest tool to get filter off as it looks tricky as it has things either side and my filter tool wont fit. and is the sump plug the big nut with a hole in at the front of the sump under the regulator? seems strange as being on the front side it seems that it's not going to get all the old oil out!
most cars are on the bottom of the sump to get every drip out, but that is the only thing i can see that looks like it could be the oil drain plug on this car,
please let me know so i can have a go at the oil,

cheers all

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 28 Apr 2010, 20:10

Congrats on replacing the acc sphere

I have a boa for removing oil filters:

Sump plug should be on the drivers side of the back face of the sump

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 28 Apr 2010, 20:15

xantia sx auto wrote:now all i need to do is stop the darn airbag light

You might want to browse the handy hints and tips section

Or is it in the Stickys?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 28 Apr 2010, 21:42

xantia sx auto wrote
"and my filter tool wont fit"

thats because they are not the same shape they started out before killing them all trying to remove sphere's TEA HE

regards malcolm