Xantia Blower - FINALLY FIXED!!!

[KennyW]

Hi David,

Have you checked the feed from the ignition switch to the fuses under the steering wheel.

There is direct feed from the fuse in the engine bay to brown plug 1 on the igniton switch. This has a joint which feeds fuse 5 which then goes to the relay at No 1.
Brown plug on igniton switch 2 feeds fuse 21 which feeds no 3 on relay .

Your problem could be the joint between feed from engine fuse and brown plug at ignition switch.

I know there is very good posting about fitting the relay for MK 1's on the forum which has pictuires and diagrams.

Kenny

[myglaren]

Thanks Jim.

I've been prodding around with the multimeter again, there's no voltage at the brown plug, no voltage at the fuse under the steering wheel, and I've no idea where to go from here!

David.

Does the engine have to be running before any power is available to the fan?

[DHallworth]

Thanks Jim.

I've been prodding around with the multimeter again, there's no voltage at the brown plug, no voltage at the fuse under the steering wheel, and I've no idea where to go from here!

David.

Does the engine have to be running before any power is available to the fan?

On the series 2 it does, engine has been running for all of these tests.

I've got continuity between brown plug 2 and the fuse, just about to check between fuse and relay.

Where is brown plug 1 fed from in the engine bay?

David.

[CitroJim]

Kenny, you're well on the way to becoming a good autosparks making posts like that

David, as it's your HDi in question, you may well find the blower is fed via a relay. Some MK2s had the relay fitted (as per the MK1 relay mod Kenny refers to) and some didn't. It was mainly fitted to the higer-spec models.

You can tell by looking at the relays in the driver's footwell and looking for a green one low down, somewhat on its own and mounted on black stilts.

The diagram I posted in the post explaining how to check the climate ECU outputs (the upside down one) is the diagram applicable to the MK2 without the relay.

These diagrams are applicable where the relay is fited:

Circuit Diagram

Harness (Loom) Diagram

Component Locations Diagram

Hope that is helpful in nailing down the problem David.

Xac, these diagrams apply to Juliet too

[Xaccers]

cheers jim

[DHallworth]

Thanks guys.

Mine does have the relay Jim.

That was one of the first things I tried swapping with the Activa hoping that it might be a nice simple fix but evidently not!

I hate electrical faults more then anything!

Thanks again guys.

David.

[DHallworth]

Right....

From brown pin 1 to earth there is a solid 14v supply with the engine running.

There's continuity between the 2 pins on the ignition switch with the engine running.

There's continuity from pin 2 on the brown plug to fuse 21 and continuity from fuse 21 to pin 3 on the relay.

I can't get any continuity from fuse 5 to pin 1 on the relay with the engine on or off.

David.

[DHallworth]

OK....

Have now realised that there isn't any power getting to fuse 5 so there's nothing opening the relay.

Jim, thanks for those diagrams, it's proved a huge help!

David.

[CitroJim]

Right....

I can't get any continuity from fuse 5 to pin 1 on the relay with the engine on or off.

A break in the wire KV05D in harness 50P/B.

Odd as there are no splices or connectors involved. It goes straight from the fusebox to the relay base and the actual physical distance between the fuse board and the relay base is mere inches. Have a look at the relay base underneath. It may be a badly crimped wire or the base or loom may have been damaged from being kicked...

Can you see 12V on the fuse with the ignition on David?

[DHallworth]

Hi Jim,

I'm not getting any voltage at fuse 5 with the engine running or stopped.

David.

[CitroJim]

Hi Jim,

I'm not getting any voltage at fuse 5 with the engine running or stopped.

David.

If you're not seeing 12V on either side of the fuse with ignition on David, the fault is between there, the ignition switch and battery.

Remove the fuse completely and see if you can see any voltage actually on the fuse blade sockets. You should see it on the ignition switch side.

If you see nothing, then check for 12V on the brown ignition switch connector. It just might be the ignition switch

If nothing on either side of the brown ignition switch connector then you're looking at a break in the supply to the ignition switch and that involves the infamous 10PR loom that runs across the front of the engine bay under the rad and the big interconnect high up in the RH scuttle. The 10PR loom is the cause of many electrical woes.

If we need to go there, I need to dig out the circuits that show the supply detail. The ones I've so far posted don't show that part of the wiring..

[DHallworth]

Right, final findings for this evening....

The relay is working, I can hear it and feel it clicking.

There is power getting to all the fuses and the relay, the steering switches test fine.

There is continuity between pin 5 on the relay and pin 4 on the motor.

However when testing pin 4 on the motor for voltage there is nothing there. This is baffling as the relay is clicking when it should and is closing. This lead me to believe the relay was faulty. I tried the relay from our Activa, this didn't make any difference.

When trying the relay from the HDi in the Activa it works without fault.

If the relay is clicking closed and there is continuity between the relay socket and pin 4 on the motor then surely there should be voltage at pin 4 between pin 4 an earth?

This is driving me nuts now!

David.

[Peter.N.]

Imagine repairing TVs for a living and having this sort of problem every day, Jim knows about that to

I had a similar problem on the white XM, no voltage on the 30a fuse under the bonnet, after a lot of head scratching and wasted time I discovered that someone had actually disconnected the fuse and fitted an external one, it was laying across the top of the battery, on the XM the fuseholder frequently self destructs.

Peter

[DHallworth]

Hi Peter,

I've got all this to come on the XM.

Problem is the XM I've got coming from Malaysia in 5 weeks time is a W reg V6 which has got multiplex wiring and everything on it!

Got a feeling the elite might come in very helpful with that!

David.

[CitroJim]

Imagine repairing TVs for a living and having this sort of problem every day, Jim knows about that to

Indeed And still today that is the case. Chasing software bugs follows the same principles. Like you Peter, it's been a lifelong activity for me..

David,

Good, progress

Pop the relay out and leave it out for now. You've confirmed continuity between pin 5 of the relay and pin 4 on the motor plug. Good. Continuity here is not to say the connection is good as a continuity test is carried out using a tiny current and this can mask high resistance joints. It's a lot different when 20A is flowing.

Check next for continuity between pin 3 of the relay base and F21. F21 is the supply fuse.

Next, turn on the ignition and check to see if there is 12V at pin 3. If not, check for 12V on F21. If not, check for 12V on fuse B (one of the giants) in the engine bay fusebox.

If 12V everywhere doing this test, a high resistance is indicated. Now insert the relay again and switch on.
Check for voltage at F21. If there is no voltage here, If nothing here, check for voltage on both pins of the grey ignition switch plug. If nothing here, check for voltage at Fuse B.

If present at Fuse B but not at F21, you have a high resistance on the BMF2 wire. Checking where it disappears between Fuse B, the Grey ignition switch plug and F21 will narrow it down.

Trace this through the loom. A good suspect may be the Splice (joint) ECC1 between the ignition switch grey plug and the fusebox before F21.

The location diagram shows this splice roughly in the steering column shrouds..

Nearly there!