Toby's Activa and 406 Coupe

Post by **CitroJim** » 17 May 2010, 18:51

Toby_HDi wrote: Anyway, the Coupe is going for an early MOT tomorrow. If it fails, I will transfer cover to the Activa. I have a horrible feeling it is going to fail spectacularly.

Why? What do you suspect?

Toby_HDi wrote: I can then start sorting it while driving the Activa.

So, see you next weekend then....

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 18 May 2010, 21:35

Not had the car back yet but it has failed. I discovered this on the MOTinfo site....

Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.3)

Nearside Rear Registration plate lamp not working (1.1.5c)

Front Horn does not function (1.7.1b)

Interesting the horn doesn't work! The lower arm bush I assume is the wishbone? I was suspecting the rear as it feels twitchy, not the front. Could this be the cause of the twitchy roadholding? Even so, how easy are these to do? I know there are two on each wishbone and I might as well do both sets. Ideally, I'd like to get it done soon so I can go to Beaulieu, if not then nevermind.

Also advisories....

Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.D.1)

Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1f)

I knew about the tyre, thankfully it is just an advisory and rear brake pads is not an issue. Simple job methinks.

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 18 May 2010, 21:58

toby thats all ok

lower arm is similar to all psa cars.. two bushes and a ball joint are it's three points of contact.. a new arm may not be that much, otherwise you can pull the failed one off, grab someone with a press

and get the failed bush replaced..

option one is easy but £50 or so.. option two more like £8 but the press is the key...

J

Post by **CitroJim** » 19 May 2010, 05:52

That's not too bad them Toby.. Could have been a lot worse...

Press in my garage...

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 19 May 2010, 06:14

CitroJim wrote:That's not too bad them Toby.. Could have been a lot worse...

Press in my garage...

And on the way pick up your new jack

Post by **CitroJim** » 19 May 2010, 06:47

DickieG wrote: And on the way pick up your new jack

You'll love your new jack Toby...

They're brilliant and just the job on a low-slung car like the Coupe..

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 19 May 2010, 18:34

Right well I've collected the car.

The horn does work, so not sure why that failed.

I think I may just change the wishbones. They are £50ish each from GSF and it whilst I appreciate Jim's offer of a press, it is probably just as economical to replace the arms.

I'm toying with the idea of rear bushes too, though nothing was mentioned on MOT so I may leave them be for now. Hopefully, two front wishbones and a 4-wheel alignment and it'll be good again.

I take it the wishbones just unbolt? Do I need a splitter?

One other thing I'm confused about is whether I can drive the car. The current MOT expires on June 3rd, but now that it has failed this one, does that invalidate it? I'm being told I can drive it til June but I have a suspicion that I can't.

Sl4yer · Post by **Sl4yer** » 19 May 2010, 20:45

Toby_HDi wrote:One other thing I'm confused about is whether I can drive the car. The current MOT expires on June 3rd, but now that it has failed this one, does that invalidate it? I'm being told I can drive it til June but I have a suspicion that I can't.

I'm certain you can Toby. The law only requires that you have a valid MOT, which you have. Unless they said it's dangerous you'll be fine.

James

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 19 May 2010, 22:26

+1

you can drive it Toby

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 19 May 2010, 22:42

x2, you current MOT has not been overturned.

My Ashtray failed and it was classed as dangerous. However, I drove it home like I stole it.

Gingerposer · Post by **Gingerposer** » 19 May 2010, 22:59

http://www.mottest.net/mot/mot-failure-question/

I had a look into this a while back and it appears that failing the test does not invalidate the current mot IF and only if the defects on the fail report are rectified before driving the car on the road.

Ainslie

Sl4yer · Post by **Sl4yer** » 20 May 2010, 14:49

That's a bit misleading in a way. The MOT is
only proof of roadworthiness for the moment it's issued. Having a current MOT is not proof of roadworthiness, but is a legal requirement. Toby currently meets this requirement. I don't think there is any intention in the law that a car that fails it's test cannot be driven. Many things, such as retests, provision for getting to a test with no certificate and the Danger notice support this.

The example given in the article (worn tyres) is an extreme case, and something that most concientious car owners would never risk failing on, or even driving with, regardless of MOT.

James

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 20 May 2010, 16:22

jgra1 wrote:option one is easy but £50 or so..

I've agreed to assist but I've only experience of doing one on a Ford Escrot and that was in a garage, using power tools and car lift.

I hope Toby's got the BoL but in the meantime, does anyone have a brief of the job so we can be as efficient as possible? I recall power tools, brute force, serious leverage and plenty of space under the car was required but that might just have been me and my time-conscious boss's methodology.

Sl4yer wrote:That's a bit misleading in a way.

Agreed. It's cleverly worded to imply the MOT is invalid until the tyres have been replaced but that's not the case. The MOT remains valid. What is true is that the driver could be charged with other traffic offenses, but it won't be for not having a valid MOT.

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 20 May 2010, 16:43

hi Mike.. similar to a Xantia really..

jack-up, wheel off, maybe wheelarch liner,
split outer lower ball joint,
split track rod end.. (should allow strut to move out of way (may be worth removing strut brace and rebolting strut top loosely))
and undo the inner bush bolts..

I think that's it although there may be a drop link to remove too..

then the arm should just come out

I think on reffiting you may want to get some car weight back on the wheel before you tighten the inner bush bolts, so they are not prestressed..

anyway, and 406 BOL will guide you through, but arm changing should be pretty straightforward really..

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 20 May 2010, 17:41

Thanks John!