alternator removal Xantia 1.9 TD

Post by **KennyW** » 14 Mar 2010, 17:03

Rob,

Good to hear you are making progress, I agree with everyone the Xantia's are a great motor once you get used to the little quirks.

In your signature its worth putting details of the car which helps the rest of the gang answer the questions posed.

Have you reach the tensioner needle bearing yet

The rest of your problems are only minor but I would suggest changing the time belt to guarantee provenance.

Otherwise it sounds as though you have a great car.

Kenny

roby77 · Post by **roby77** » 14 Mar 2010, 17:23

Hi Kenny..Yes i have took out the old tensioner and old spring and put a new spring in place ..I will put the new tensioner in tomorrow and attach it to the spring..I see the new tensioner i bought has a plastic wheel, is that normal ?..I also am waiting for the new alternator to arrive..Kenny did you mean to say replace the auxilery belt or timing belt ? ..surely the timing belt would be another big job..I woul prefere to take it on trust that the timing belt was renewed a couple of years ago.. (i know it could be Chancey)...I did ask the question if there is any way of checking the belt but it seems only a couple of inches can be seen...Ta ...Oh sorry one more thing can i just put the metal pipes back onto the hydraulic pump or do i have to replace the unions as described in the Haynes manual..

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 14 Mar 2010, 19:06

In theroy you do not need to change any seals, they are all re useuable, but as they are cheap, people reccomend changing them as a matter of course..

The Pump Does NOT have any seals, they use the conventional Brake Line type unions, so just re-fit the pipes back on the pump..

Id STRONGLY recomend fitting the spring and tensioner to the bracket OFF the car, then fit the bracket back to the car afterwards!

Thers only 4 bolts holding the bracket to the block..

Paul

Post by **KennyW** » 16 Mar 2010, 19:53

Rob,

I change the timing belt everytime i buy a new diesel so I know the history of the belt. Hence when i said about changing the timing belt.

There were so many changes made to the pipes anf flarings from 1996 onwards and I know mine is different to yours, even although the pump is the same.

If you have the bracket still off, on my Xantia you can remove the front top cover which is over the fuel pump and view the belt that way.

On mine the top cover is split in 2 front and rear.

Kenny

roby77 · Post by **roby77** » 29 Mar 2010, 10:53

Hi all , yes i'm afraid i'm back again. Have had no chance to continue with the tensioner,alternator renewal for a week or so.. but now i have time and i need just a little more advice..Inserted the new tensioner but when i do up the main bolt that holds the tensioner in place i cannot get the tensioner to move ..If i undo the bolt slightly it moves freely..I have put the washer in place (that is on the bolt and between where the tensioner meet the block/bracket) although the washer it is quite a thin , and i have greased it well..it just seem if i do up the bolt not more than hand tight it will not move freely..Just out of interest i have bought a new belt (num 6PK1736),after taking my engine number and confirming i have a delphi/harrison compressor AEP assure me this is the correct belt.I will see when i fit it..I have been reading that there are some issues as to the correct Aux belt sizes..thanks

Post by **KennyW** » 29 Mar 2010, 20:23

Hi Rob,

Yes, you have the correct belt for Delphi/Harrison compressor

Is it your spring tensioner bolt that is causing the problem

Kenny

roby77 · Post by **roby77** » 29 Mar 2010, 20:56

Hi... If you mean the allen key bolt that attaches the spring to the tensioner, then no..Even without the spring attached, it does not move if i do up the main bolt.. If i slacken the bolt just slightly so it it slack enough to move with my fingers, it moves freely..I wonder if this is the same reason i could not move the old tensioner . when itook off the old tensioner it seem perfectly ok

Gaskin · Post by **Gaskin** » 29 Mar 2010, 22:12

I'm about to change my aux belt tensioner next week so I'm glad for the info in this thread. I also noticed that my new tensioner looks as though when the big bolt is tightened up it will not be able to move. The washer on the bolt bears on the tensioner not the inner bush.

This was a GSF sourced tensioner. Has anyone got one from anywhere else that functioned OK?

Cheers

Duncan

Post by **CitroJim** » 30 Mar 2010, 10:48

Hi Duncan,

If you're going about changing tensioners, this guide may help...

It's not such a bad job really.

Only ever used GSF tensioners. They seem OK despite having a plastic jockey wheel.

Post by **KennyW** » 30 Mar 2010, 10:56

Hi all,

Jim, when I did my faulty needle bearing the kit I got from a local motor factor was made by Dayco and the tensioner was plastic.

I've kept the metal one, just in case

Kenny

Post by **CitroJim** » 30 Mar 2010, 10:59

KennyW wrote: I've kept the metal one, just in case

I'm not sure the metal one will fit Kenny.

I recall citroenxm fell foul of this. He had a pattern tensioner without a wheel and a metal one I had would not fit.

Dayco are OK. They are one of the OEM manufacturers, most known for cambelts.

roby77 · Post by **roby77** » 31 Mar 2010, 10:59

Hi all ...with reguard to the tensioner problem (GASKIN seems to have the same trouble)..yes i think my tensioner is the GSF type and yes the washer does sit between the body of tensioner and the block/bracket..I still cannot see how the tensioner will move once the bolt is tighted and indeed as said before it does bind when you tighten up the bolt to any degree at all...I am thinking to put on the aux belt with the bolt slack so that it can tension and then tighten the bolt afterwards..Then of course slacken off after some miles (belt may stretch) and then re-tighten again..Not sure if i will be able to get to the bolt easily when everything is back in place...thanks

Post by **CitroJim** » 31 Mar 2010, 11:11

There is something wrong then as the tensioner should be able to move with the pivot bolt tight. It runs on needle rollers for this very reason.

Note that new tensioners are very tight on the pivot so be sure this is not giving you a red herring. The spring exerts a heck of a force and should be able to overcome the stiction in a new tensioner.

You're right about the washer positioning but one thing to be careful of, given the poorish access, is that when you fit the tensioner it is going in nice and square and sitting properly against the cradle casting. I have found it is possible to get it sitting at an angle and under these conditions it will bind.

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