ABS Reluctor ring

scoles · Post by **scoles** » 18 Jan 2010, 18:38

thorter wrote:According to notes I made when I had the same problem, the ABS ring inner diameter is 90mm, outside diameter 99mm. I doubt the ring can be welded - it will be soft iron, and probably sintered (hot pressed from powder).

Gluing it is an option, but make sure you remove all rust so that the teeth are evenly spaced over the break.

Fred

Hi mate thanks for that just what i was looking for, can i ask how you fixed yours?

Cheers
Stuart

thorter · Post by **thorter** » 18 Jan 2010, 19:33

Hi Stuart,

I got a drive shaft from a scrapy. It was from an auto, and I think the outer joint was different, but the ring diameter was the same, and I changed the ring over. I have a feeling the same ring may be used on other makes (Peugeot?). It has 48 teeth, and I think this has to be the same as the other side, or the ABS senses the difference.

You need to clean off rust etc, be very careful to tap it off evenly, then fit it with loctite if necessary. I managed to fit it without removing the shaft from the car, just the outer out of the hub.

Fred

scoles · Post by **scoles** » 19 Jan 2010, 12:30

thorter wrote:Hi Stuart,

I got a drive shaft from a scrapy. It was from an auto, and I think the outer joint was different, but the ring diameter was the same, and I changed the ring over. I have a feeling the same ring may be used on other makes (Peugeot?). It has 48 teeth, and I think this has to be the same as the other side, or the ABS senses the difference.

You need to clean off rust etc, be very careful to tap it off evenly, then fit it with loctite if necessary. I managed to fit it without removing the shaft from the car, just the outer out of the hub.

Fred

Thats great mate, unfortunately i dont think there are any local to me in the scrappy. and at £18 each for new ones i think i will just go for them.

Can i ask was there anything hard or difficult about removing the outer hub to gain access?

How easy was the lower ball joint to split etc?

Cheers
Stuart

thorter · Post by **thorter** » 19 Jan 2010, 14:08

You need a very heavy socket, box, or ring spanner, and a 3 foot tommy bar or similar length of pipe, to loosen the drive shaft nut. It needs to be very tight. I don't think a half inch socket drive will be strong enough, would need to be three quarters. But I have always found the handbrake good enough to stop the shaft turning, provided it is working correctly.

As regards the ball pin, the nut is easy enough to loosen, but again I think a heavy fork type splitter is fairly essential. The taper can be very tight, and if you try to hammer the end to release it, you will probably ruin the thread.

With these tools it is a half hour job. You should not need to separate the track rod, just angle the strut and thread the drive shaft out. However, take care that the shaft inner does not come out of the gearbox. It may be a good precaution to secure the shaft inwards with something like a length of rope.

Fred

scoles · Post by **scoles** » 19 Jan 2010, 14:12

ah thats ok then i have access to as big a socket drive as i could lift manually and i am sure i have a fork type ball joint splitter.

One thing can you remember roughyl what size the driveshaft nut is?

How easy was it to get the new ABS ring on? some say that they need heated?

others say very carefull tapping with a brass drift gets them on.

Cheers again
Stuart

thorter · Post by **thorter** » 19 Jan 2010, 14:42

The drive shaft nut is 36mm AF.

Make sure all rust is removed since it increases the diameter. Once you have cleaned up the joint, the ring should not be very tight. I think I used a length of sheet metal wrapped round, a bit of chipboard with a hole, and then used the drive shaft nut to push it on reasonably square. Anything like that should do. Tapping it on should be OK provided you keep it square - the ring is not at all strong.

I have always found heating up similar metals to assemble is a waste of time. As soon as the ring touches it will loose its heat, and you still have half an inch to go. Better take steps to keep it accurately square.

Fred

scoles · Post by **scoles** » 19 Jan 2010, 14:51

Thanks for that, just making sure i have the correct driveshaft socket at home.

I was goinbg to use a eddy current bearing heater i have at work, but i will just drift it on.

I am unsure what the new rings are made of i think it may be steel or stainless as there coming from a transmission company that make them.

So i may keep a blow torch at hand to heat if need be.

Cheers

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 19 Jan 2010, 15:14

Go easy with the ball joint splitter - any type.. If you dont lift the Joint rubber up a bit with a screw driver, the fork can split and damage the joint rubber - remember, the splitters are designed with the fact you MAY useually be fitting a new ball joint, however in your case you be reuseing the ball joint..

So, as your inserting the fork, I lift the rubber boot on the ball joint up with a screw driver so it doesn't catch.

Paul

scoles · Post by **scoles** » 19 Jan 2010, 19:38

citroenxm wrote:Go easy with the ball joint splitter - any type.. If you dont lift the Joint rubber up a bit with a screw driver, the fork can split and damage the joint rubber - remember, the splitters are designed with the fact you MAY useually be fitting a new ball joint, however in your case you be reuseing the ball joint..

So, as your inserting the fork, I lift the rubber boot on the ball joint up with a screw driver so it doesn't catch.

Paul

Thanks for that Paul, can i ask whats involved with fitting a nwe ball joint, ie is the joint bolted onto the lower arm or riveted?

Cheers
Stuart

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 19 Jan 2010, 19:40

Bottom ball joints are screwed in - BUT are BLYDI DAMM TIGHT!!

I have not successfully removed a joint yet without removeing the whole hub and putting it in a vice then heating it up read hot and knocking it out with a punch..

I DO have the special socket for removing them, but not been succesfull in useing it..

Citroen Loctite the thread, and also knock in the edge into a locking cut out.

Paul

scoles · Post by **scoles** » 19 Jan 2010, 21:03

am i right in thinking that the balljoint on these are theopposite way around to convenional ball joints.

In that the taper is in the lower arm and not the bottom of the hub?

i will just be carefull when splitting the joint so as not to damage the rubber.

Cheers

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 19 Jan 2010, 21:08

No,
The lower arm has a hole to take the taper that IS the ball joint, its an ordinary Right Hand Thread too...

Paul

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 19 Jan 2010, 21:12

i have welded a ring back in place which had split, cant remember what make of car it was, but the ring was definetly steel,

regards malcolm

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 19 Jan 2010, 21:14

They HAVE to be steel, becuase the RUST! If they weren't steel, they wouldn't rust would they???

Well, I wouldn't have thought they'd rust, if anything but steel

(Or something like that... gawd, its gettin late, and Im tired)

Paul

meexi · Post by **meexi** » 19 Jan 2010, 21:40

try this guy on E-bay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ABS-Rings-for-Cit ... 2eaa8a52a3

worked for my Picasso