ZX Rear Brake Drum Removal

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Xsarahdi
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Post by Xsarahdi »

Just managed to get one of the drums off only to find the brake cylinder was leaking brake fluid so there was fluid all in the drum. No wonder they advised on the MOT that the rear brakes weren't very good. Also that makes sense that the warning light is on for low fluid level. I am going to book it into a garage to get it done so will cost quite a bit. :cry:

Thanks for your advice.
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Post by Chlorate »

Actually, removing the cylinder from the rear drums isn't a particularly hard job. I've had to do it once and if I recall the part cost in the region of £15.
You'll probably have trouble taking the brake union nut off, so you'll want to invest in a union nut spanner or a good pair of mole grips.
Also be careful with the mounting screws, they're torx heads and often get a bit rusty and easy to round off.
It's one of those jobs that'll become needlessly expensive if you give it to someone else to do.
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Post by Featch »

If you've managed to get a drum off then replacing the slave cylinders and brake shoes isn't difficult. You're half way there already.

Save yourself expense and conquer another skill..!!

You'll get plenty off advice on here to guide you through.
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Post by citronut »

Xsarahdi were abouts are you

regards malcolm
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Xsarahdi
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Post by Xsarahdi »

I am near Norwich.
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Post by RichardW »

Last time I did rear drums on a ZX.....

SWMBO comes in saying brakes feel funny. Quick pump of the pedal reveals all not well, and a look underneath shows fluid running from the back plate. Drums off to find some numpty has made an arse of fitting of the previous set of linings, one has canted outwards, eventually allowing the cylinder to pop out. This has scored a deep offset grove in the drum. Other side cylinder is also leaking. Half the self adjuster mech is missing. the thread on one of the stub axles is mashed (HOW????). Try to remove pipes from cylinders, both shear off :cry: Cue new: drums, wheel bearings, nuts, cylinders, linings, pipes, and adjusters - and most of a weekend to fit, including chasing aroudn trying to get someone to press the bearings in. Parts cost £200 - I hate to think what the labour charge would have been! The only good bit was I managed to save the thread on the stub axle, and the nut torqued up OK.

I remembered afterwards, I hate working on drum brakes :twisted:
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Post by citronut »

i quite offten find the stainless steel locking blade/pawl missing, i think it could be very easy to loose this if you dont know its there,

then as i said earlier you cant buy this blade on its own, and the adjuster kit is around 50 to 60 quid fronm the dealers

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Post by lexi »

Allow also for the possibility of fitting a new brake pipe section back to nearest T piece. It`s not unusual to have to cut the pipe at union and fit a 6 sided socket to get it out. I seem to remember that on last of a few ZX.
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Post by Chlorate »

Yeah, that union nut is a real bugger!
On my pug I rounded it off with a spanner and we eventually got it off with mole grips, the nut was incredibly deformed at the end of it...
I probably should have just gone and bought a brake line spanner.
Buuut it still worked.

Not advisable to do that..

But that car is no more. It was stolen, and the police very kindly destroyed it for me. Because I couldn't afford to pay for it to be returned :evil:
Ahem.
Sorry.

Wheel cylinder, easy to do, but falls victim to the stuck bolt fairy. Wouldn't like to pay a garage to do it for me.

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