Well i've opened it up and it is quite obvious there is one electrovavle driver burned and got dry joint cos of heat. There is something on the otherside that looks similar that i will also replace.
I will post the pictures soon too, I also made a note of the numbers on the replaceable components for future reference.
I understand what your saying richard, but it's broken anyway and it will still be broken whether i make it worse or not, the suspension will still work in hard mode right (mechanically able but not electronically). I will risk replacing the parts and i will send it over to you (or jim if u are unable to at the time), where are u richard?
I find it quite cool that the french decided to build this whole ecu just to make the car able to be soft and hard on the ride, one ecu to control two electrovalves.
I will post my pictures soon. Oh and Richard, it is a H4 ecu too, which means the hydractive 2 as you quite rightly said. I still need to find that technical document too, I couldn't get into the club-xm forum to get the diode types for the electrovalves, has anyone got any diode type/code for me so i can order it with the valve drivers?
what about any components for doing the LED mod? I suppose I will need a few components to do that too. I'm sure mandrake did it, I will go hunt him down and pick his brains.
Thanks for all your help so far richard. (and everyone else)
Maplin tonight.
suspension Q's
Moderator: RichardW
- DickieG
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Between Slough and Uxbridge, just west of the M25deian wrote:where are u richard?
XM and Xantia Hydractive ECU's are exactly the same, its the programming on the car that's different.deian wrote:I will post my pictures soon. Oh and Richard, it is a H4 ecu too, which means the hydractive 2 as you quite rightly said.
For VN05N's you could try Ebay as the last time I inquired at Maplins they no longer stocked them, IIRC I got mine from a company in Scotland via Ebay. For the diodes I used 1N4007 (Maplins part number QL79L).deian wrote:I still need to find that technical document too, I couldn't get into the club-xm forum to get the diode types for the electrovalves, has anyone got any diode type/code for me so I can order it with the valve drivers?
For the LED mod there's some info heredeian wrote:what about any components for doing the LED mod? I suppose I will need a few components to do that too. I'm sure mandrake did it, I will go hunt him down and pick his brains.
Here's the link to Simons pictures.
Loads of useful/piccies info from Activa Club France here
Not a problem, I know how you feel with this, been theredeian wrote:Thanks for all your help so far richard. (and everyone else)
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Here are pics of my ECU:
(right top back)
see top e.valve driver with dry joints (don't even seem soldered anymore)
(main board) see where the 'wings' are, middle left (bottom) on left tab seems burned/corroded (see pic below), as is the top right e.valve driver (see above pic)
(front of top left wing as per above photo, taken 90o ccw), see corrosion on the 'malaysia' chip, what does this one do?
Here are the details of the chips for any future reference:
(lines are denoted by a dash, the ecu is from a xantia 1.9td vsx 1995 manual black, manual bosch diesel pump, no keypad)
HYDRACTIVE II - H4 ECU
NUMBERS:
VALE0 - MADE IN FRANCE - 73810802 - 9610493180 - 12V 27.94 - H4 S2G2G - 0
Sockets Facing: Up as per middle photo:
LEFT side tab
TOP: L4705CV - 8AC418 - ST SING (SEEMS OK)
MIDDLE: STA418 - MALAYSIA - BUZ11 (CORRODED)
BOTTOM: BLANK
RIGHT side tab
TOP: VN05N - 8AB418 - ST SING (BURNED, DRY ON THE BACK SIDE)
MIDDLE: BLANK
BOTTOM: SAME AS TOP (SEEMS OK)
PROCESSOR: TEXAS INSTRUMENTS - 4????JW - TMS????O056 - R356???NA - 75076016 2.G
OTHERBIG CHIP: TEXAS INSTRUMENTS - 4091E3W - R31004FNA - 75076026 2.G
Feels free to fill in the blanks for the TI processor, it may help some geek somewhere to reverse engineer something, not that it matters because it would be silly to think of replacing that!
So, how does my H4 Ecu look? (different from the one posted by Richard earlier on in the thread, was that one from an XM by any chance?).
(right top back)
see top e.valve driver with dry joints (don't even seem soldered anymore)
(main board) see where the 'wings' are, middle left (bottom) on left tab seems burned/corroded (see pic below), as is the top right e.valve driver (see above pic)
(front of top left wing as per above photo, taken 90o ccw), see corrosion on the 'malaysia' chip, what does this one do?
Here are the details of the chips for any future reference:
(lines are denoted by a dash, the ecu is from a xantia 1.9td vsx 1995 manual black, manual bosch diesel pump, no keypad)
HYDRACTIVE II - H4 ECU
NUMBERS:
VALE0 - MADE IN FRANCE - 73810802 - 9610493180 - 12V 27.94 - H4 S2G2G - 0
Sockets Facing: Up as per middle photo:
LEFT side tab
TOP: L4705CV - 8AC418 - ST SING (SEEMS OK)
MIDDLE: STA418 - MALAYSIA - BUZ11 (CORRODED)
BOTTOM: BLANK
RIGHT side tab
TOP: VN05N - 8AB418 - ST SING (BURNED, DRY ON THE BACK SIDE)
MIDDLE: BLANK
BOTTOM: SAME AS TOP (SEEMS OK)
PROCESSOR: TEXAS INSTRUMENTS - 4????JW - TMS????O056 - R356???NA - 75076016 2.G
OTHERBIG CHIP: TEXAS INSTRUMENTS - 4091E3W - R31004FNA - 75076026 2.G
Feels free to fill in the blanks for the TI processor, it may help some geek somewhere to reverse engineer something, not that it matters because it would be silly to think of replacing that!
So, how does my H4 Ecu look? (different from the one posted by Richard earlier on in the thread, was that one from an XM by any chance?).
- CitroJim
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The corroded Malaysian Dei, is a BUZ11 mosfet (datasheet) A type of power transistor. It'll be used I expect as a voltage stabiliser as the device below it (LN4705) is a 5V (7805-type) voltage regulator.
If one of the VN05s has bid a fond farewell then it's possible it's taken the BUZ11 with it although these things can run terribly hot and not suffer.
It'll be worth checking there are no shorts on your electrovalve wiring or the electrovalves themselves although a VN05 will current limit to protect itself normally.
Replace them and see how it goes, you have nothing to loose...
Be interested to see the results
Don't worry about the lumps of smooth brown goo around the electrolytics. They've not leaked, it's just a protective coating. A coating we used to call "tropicalising" in the old days. It keeps any moisture out.
If one of the VN05s has bid a fond farewell then it's possible it's taken the BUZ11 with it although these things can run terribly hot and not suffer.
It'll be worth checking there are no shorts on your electrovalve wiring or the electrovalves themselves although a VN05 will current limit to protect itself normally.
Replace them and see how it goes, you have nothing to loose...
Be interested to see the results
Don't worry about the lumps of smooth brown goo around the electrolytics. They've not leaked, it's just a protective coating. A coating we used to call "tropicalising" in the old days. It keeps any moisture out.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- CitroJim
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The diodes normally go open-circuit Dei and it is unusual for it to immediately kill a VN05 but eventually over time it is very possible it will become the victim of back-emf generated by the electrovalves due to the non-functional diodes.
EDIT: Farnell might be a better bet than Maplin or RS...
EDIT: Farnell might be a better bet than Maplin or RS...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
RS have the e.valve transistors, and the buz11 one (comes back as something else, but the code must have changed), as for the L4705CV thats harder to find, i'll look at Farnell now.
I thought the back emf would eventually cause havoc in the ecu, so i will do the diode fix on the electrovalve cable before plugging in the ecu after getting the faults cleared.
Thanks for ur help guys. Much appreciated.
I thought the back emf would eventually cause havoc in the ecu, so i will do the diode fix on the electrovalve cable before plugging in the ecu after getting the faults cleared.
Thanks for ur help guys. Much appreciated.