Xantia..Time for work.

Post by **RichardW** » 22 Oct 2009, 21:41

Turning it over is easy (ish).... you will have it jacked up anyway, so just pop the driver's wheel back on, engage 4th, let the h/brake off, then rotate the wheel forwards to turn the engine over. It take a bit of effort to get it over comp but it works OK.

Just one thing....make sure the passenger wheel cannot turn, otherwise the diff does it job, and the passenger wheel just goes backwards....confused / frightened the heck out of me the first time I did that

To find the flywheel timing hole, I have a long piece of 8mm bar, chamfered on the end, and with about 6" of one end bent up about 15°. You might need to bend it a bit more to clear various obstacles in the engine bay though! Using this, you can stand by the driver's wheel, feed it in behind the starter between the starter body and solenoid, and it should find the flute in the front of the block and be guided into the timing hole - you will know when it is in the hole it, as it will hit the flywheel with a ringing sound - now you can turn the engine over with your left hand whilst pushing on the rod with your right. If you've already got the timing covers off, then you can watch the timing hole in the cam sprocket to know when you are nearly there (timing is 4 o'clock). Should drop in first time past.....

Watch out for the bolt in the back of the top timing cover that you can't see, can only just feel, and is a different size (11mm) to all the others (10mm). A class piece of design. Not

deian · Post by **deian** » 22 Oct 2009, 22:05

RichardW wrote:Turning it over is easy (ish).... you will have it jacked up anyway, so just pop the driver's wheel back on, engage 4th, let the h/brake off, then rotate the wheel forwards to turn the engine over. It take a bit of effort to get it over comp but it works OK.

That would actually work better, good idea there, also being a diesel, there would be a lot of compression to overcome compared to a petrol engine.

RichardW wrote: Watch out for the bolt in the back of the top timing cover that you can't see, can only just feel, and is a different size (11mm) to all the others (10mm). A class piece of design. Not

Ahh, the french mind at work.

lexi · Post by **lexi** » 24 Oct 2009, 21:40

More good info there. Going over the bits before I start. I discover I have been sold this from GSF

PART NO N13180
This is what I was referring to when asking if there were other parts. Iam missing the body of the tensioner with the tube hearing that Jim shows in the guide. Is that part wrong for the 1.9td on an R plate? Or do I just need the additional body part? Bought that bit 8months ago and Ithink it was about £30.

Post by **CitroJim** » 24 Oct 2009, 21:55

Ahh, that one looks like the eccentric tensioner for the aux. belt Lexi but GSF describe it as being for the HDi but only for the Pug 406

I can do a cross check in a moment on the Laser and see of they are in fact one and the same.

The spring tensioner you need (and the one I've documented replacing) is sold by GSF under part. No N13179. GSF don't really describe it very well.

I'll do a cross-check on the eccentric one and get right back...

Post by **CitroJim** » 24 Oct 2009, 22:02

Lexi, just cross-checked and the HDi and 1.9TD share the same eccentric tensioner precisely so you're good to go with that one

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 24 Oct 2009, 23:32

Agreed Jim,

I Can confirm this with the recent addition of Air Con to my Series 1 Xantia, I used the eccentric from the HDi unit I had spare..

Paul

lexi · Post by **lexi** » 25 Oct 2009, 00:30

That`s great. So I just need the dogleg tensioner as a separate bit from GSF on Monday. I take it that bit can be sold separate from the eccentric tensioner?

Post by **CitroJim** » 25 Oct 2009, 07:06

Yes, N13179 can be ordered separately Lexi. You can alos buy the spring that goes with it but there will be no need as I cannot ever see it failing!

N13179 comes complete with a new bolt which as good as the old one can fatigue when the bearing in it fail.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 25 Oct 2009, 09:13

Jim

Springs CAN AND DO Fail, the end lug that bolts to the tensioner CAN E longate itself if the spring tension has weakened and the roller has been able to flap about - Ive seen a couple damaged at this end!! PERSONALLY Lexi, Id remove the tensioner and spring and see what condition its in if you can do without the car..

Not sure if Ive got a failed spring to show you..

Paul

Post by **CitroJim** » 25 Oct 2009, 09:16

Well there's a thing Paul

Thanks for that! It looks such a robust thing but then I did wonder why GSF do stock them...

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 25 Oct 2009, 09:21

Beleve it or not Jim! Its a VERY soft metal for the type of job it has to do!

Terrible!!

Paul

lexi · Post by **lexi** » 25 Oct 2009, 11:24

Thanks again guys. Car is imobile until this is all done so no hurry. Will get those bits on Monday.

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 25 Oct 2009, 15:04

Before I did the complete cambelt and aux drive belt job (but not water pump) shortly after buying our 95 TD estate, I read all the posts and the BoL. Confused by the data overload, I condensed the wealth of advice on the forum into first-timers guide for my own benefit. The idea being that I would then thoroughly understand the job and should avoid any pitfalls.
In practise, the job proved to be pretty painless apart from that awkward timing cover bolt and a well-stuck pulley bolt. In the light of fresh experience I did another edit.
A little later, I read on the forum an easier way of holding in the spring plunger

that might have saved a blasphemous half-hour, so I added that too for next time (2010).

A long time later when I decided to create my own Xantia web page, I included this as part of the PDF titled Things you won't find in the BoL - a PDF prints out looking better than a web page). N.B. The pictures are of a non air-con engine.

lexi · Post by **lexi** » 25 Oct 2009, 16:17

Very nice and thanks for that.