I have done 1 Xantia matrix, and it took about 10 hours spread over 2 days. Most of the pitfalls have been described, but you need to be careful not to damage anything, and I misrouted the heater cables. Fortunately I checked the operation of the heater controls before bolting the dash back in, so it only wasted about half an hourVertVega wrote: Just curious about: "Remove windscreen scuttle* and move wiper assembly to side.. " does it prevent reaching some pipes?
Do you think a first timer can co this job over the weekend? Lots of connectors to remember to fix back in correct order
cost of matrix replacement
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Excellent Colin
No, not really, the only perhaps special tool needed is a 10mm deep socket for the nuts under the windscreen. BluTak is useful here to ensure the nut stays in the socket as you withdraw it.
Apart from that you need a small puller to get the windscreen wiper arms off and a good set of Torx drivers for the multitude of Torx screws in the dash. I think the steering wheel nut on a MK1 needs a 21mm socket and they're not commonly found in normal socket sets (on a MK2 it's a T40 Torx)
You'll also need a T30 Torx to undo the airbag screws on the steering wheel. There is also very small Torx behind the centre dash vents that need to be removed.
Xac, can you think of anything else?
Colin, very good luck and one good thing (I assume you're doing this on the VSX) is that you have excellent access to the matrix connector by virtue of how the 16V engine lies in the bay
The new matrix does not come with new O rings for the elbow connector. Dealer only, part no. 6464 V1. The old ones, if soft, can be re-used at a push but much better to get new ones.
No, not really, the only perhaps special tool needed is a 10mm deep socket for the nuts under the windscreen. BluTak is useful here to ensure the nut stays in the socket as you withdraw it.
Apart from that you need a small puller to get the windscreen wiper arms off and a good set of Torx drivers for the multitude of Torx screws in the dash. I think the steering wheel nut on a MK1 needs a 21mm socket and they're not commonly found in normal socket sets (on a MK2 it's a T40 Torx)
You'll also need a T30 Torx to undo the airbag screws on the steering wheel. There is also very small Torx behind the centre dash vents that need to be removed.
Xac, can you think of anything else?
Colin, very good luck and one good thing (I assume you're doing this on the VSX) is that you have excellent access to the matrix connector by virtue of how the 16V engine lies in the bay
The new matrix does not come with new O rings for the elbow connector. Dealer only, part no. 6464 V1. The old ones, if soft, can be re-used at a push but much better to get new ones.
Jim
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I was just trying to remember the torx size we needed
The puller like yours Jim is £8 in Halfrauds (spotted one today).
Oh tip to disconnect the tweeters, gently tilt the end of the connector up with your finger tip, as it lifts it should pop off it's retaining clip.
The puller like yours Jim is £8 in Halfrauds (spotted one today).
Oh tip to disconnect the tweeters, gently tilt the end of the connector up with your finger tip, as it lifts it should pop off it's retaining clip.
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It realy does sound like a nightmare and i would expect a bad back for several days afterwards...i just dont have enough time without the kids so i think i will go for 12v heater/hairdryer option.Besides i have never been one to have heat blasting in any car,im the same at home it only makes the outside feel colder. Il just have to use something to chip the frozen snot off the kids faces
Alan
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Alan, it really isn't that bad a job, it just takes time and helps to have an assistant.
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CitroJim and xantia_v6. I'm sure these replies will also encourage xantiadriver who started this thread
(Edit: We were typing almost at the same time with xantiadriver. I've read your reply now.)
I hope i will not have this weekend project in the near future, at least not for a looong time.
(Edit: We were typing almost at the same time with xantiadriver. I've read your reply now.)
I hope i will not have this weekend project in the near future, at least not for a looong time.
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Thanks for the tips gentlemen
I have had the steering wheel off and do have a great selection of torx bits and as SWMBO is going to be away i have access to a hair dryer
The screen has recently been replaced so fingers crossed will let the scuttle come away a little easier.
How good is the BOL guide to doing this job is it really necesary to remove the rotary connector on the steering coloumn or is that likelly to be self explanitory once i get started
One tip i remember was something about haveing the coolant warm so as to aid in the removal of the matrix connector in the engine bay.Does the connector have o rings aswell or just a push fit.
Sorry to semi hijack your topic Alan but i hope to do this job and take lots of pictures sort of a painful blow by blow account
As for an assistant does a 6 yr old Border Collie count they are supposed to be intelligent afterall
Colin
I have had the steering wheel off and do have a great selection of torx bits and as SWMBO is going to be away i have access to a hair dryer
The screen has recently been replaced so fingers crossed will let the scuttle come away a little easier.
How good is the BOL guide to doing this job is it really necesary to remove the rotary connector on the steering coloumn or is that likelly to be self explanitory once i get started
One tip i remember was something about haveing the coolant warm so as to aid in the removal of the matrix connector in the engine bay.Does the connector have o rings aswell or just a push fit.
Sorry to semi hijack your topic Alan but i hope to do this job and take lots of pictures sort of a painful blow by blow account
As for an assistant does a 6 yr old Border Collie count they are supposed to be intelligent afterall
Colin
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No apology needed.... but thankyou anyway... i must say this is a great forum...im almost looking forward to needing advice in the future 8)admiral51 wrote:Thanks for the tips gentlemen
Sorry to semi hijack your topic Alan but i hope to do this job and take lots of pictures sort of a painful blow by blow account
Colin
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No, a Springer is better Colin but Xac would be the very best Rito, here is the basic gist of the XacJim method with grateful thanks to Paul (Citroenxm)...admiral51 wrote: As for an assistant does a 6 yr old Border Collie count they are supposed to be intelligent afterall
Inside car, push seats back as far as possible, recline as far as possible (seats, not you!). Remove centre console.
Disconnect battery, remove steering wheel, cowls and airbag after 10 mins. Remove the trim below the steering column complete. Remove switch panels, remove clocks, remove radio,and it's surround, remove ashtray, prise out centre facia vents, remove the vents and the associated framework that extends down to the ashtray aperture.
Remove the screws holding the heater control panel and push it backwards and out of the way. No need to remove it completely.
Disconnect all wires to the steering column controls and the rotary (no need to remove rotary) disconnect ignition switch. Undo the four nuts holding the steering column and drop it to the floor. Don't disconnect the UJ at the base of the steering column.
Remove scuttle panel, move wiper assembly to one side. prise off the rubber caps visible under the screen. Remove the three 10mm nuts you see but NOT the 13mm bolt under one of the caps.
Disconnect and remove the tweeters, note Xac's advice! Remove the relay below the Diagnostic Socket, Undo every bolt you see holding the dash to the sides of the body on each side. Remove a 10mm bolt up under and to the left of the steering column low down. Remove the 10 and 13mm bolts on base of the hoop (grabrails) on the transmission tunnel. Remove the 10mm bolt at the back behind where the radio sat. Remove the long 10mm bolt the can be seen going left into the grab rail hoop from the radio aperture.
Gently draw the dash forward, top first and reach behind and disconnect the passenger airbag (if fitted) and the wires to the glovebox light and switch. the wire to the light is best disconnected by removing the light from within the glovebox. Lift dash panel out, being careful of the bottom grab rail mounting fouling the centre console loom. If it does not come forward and up easily, not everything is removed and/or disconnected. Recheck. Have an assistant ease the bottom of the dash panel over the diagnostic socket and fusebox.
Remove the drivers grabrail hoop complete. It is held by two 13mm units under where the clocks were.
Temporarily replace the steering column and reconnect the ignition switch. battery reconnected, restart the engine and run until up to temperature. Disconnect the matrix connector with the engine hot. Press the metal lever toward the nearside of the car whilst pulling firmly. Use hands only and tease it and worry it sideways and up and down until it comes apart. Keep pressure on the clip lever at all times. Beware of a splash of hot water when it gives up the fight and lets go. Wear gloves.
Disconnect battery again. Drop the steering column again.
Undo the two Torx (T25) screws holding the oval metal plate on the matrix pipes now visible in the engine bay. Remove the plate and the rubber gasket underneath it.
Undo the nut (with a fibre washer behind it) that can be seen in the middle of the bulkhead below and to the right of the matrix connector. This is one nut that holds the heater box in place.
Inside, remove the Torx screws that secure the loom across the top of the steering column. Pull the loom well out of the way to expose the top of the matrix.
Identify two gold coloured 10mm bolts that hold the two halves of the heater box together. They will be at the top and bottom and the heads face toward the passenger side. Remove these. Identify the posidriv screw that holds the drivers side air vent duct to the heater box. Remove this screw and pull the vent duct out of the way. The heater box will now split by pushing the bit that contains the matrix toward the drivers side. Push and pull it until the matrix pipes pop through the bulkhead. Unclip the old matrix, tease it out, clean out the heater box and pop the new matrix in.
Reassembly is a reversal etc. etc.
Clean the ends of the matrix connector, fit new O rings and grease well with Vaseline.
That's it in a very brief and quick nutshell. Don't force anything. If the dash won't come easily, there will be something stopping it. Ditto the heater box splitting. The dash is quite heavy and awkward to carry.
This brief summary can be fleshed out over the coming days. I'm sure it'll raise more questions but fire away. This thread will become the definitive guide!
One tip is to take lots of photos to remind of how it goes, especially how the dash looms run. Pop the drivers side vent grille out of the dash before putting the dash back in.
This applies mainly to a MK1 but a MK2 is very similar although a tad more difficult due to a much bigger loom running across the heater box and a few additional ECUs that get in the way.
Phew. Easy if you read it quickly...
Jim
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Not planning to Colin but I'd better be on standby I reckon. You're quite near Timbo101 are you not? Two birds with one stone as it were. I'll see how I'm fixed...admiral51 wrote: Any chance youre down this way next weekend
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Anoter one Jim,CitroJim wrote:admiral51 wrote: As for an assistant does a 6 yr old Border Collie count they are supposed to be intelligent afterall
Remove scuttle panel, move wiper assembly to one side. prise off the rubber caps visible under the screen. Remove the three 10mm nuts you see but NOT the 13mm bolt under one of the caps.
Phew. Easy if you read it quickly...
Dont know if you have noticed, but THERES NO NEED TO MOVE THE WIPER mechanisem!! A ten MM socket will fit PAST The wiper assey with it STILL IN PLACE... so more time saved there!!!
All 4 Ive done now, ve NEVER moved the wiper assey..
Series 2 cars almost identical, apart fron dash dismantle, as the radio/heater section frame is a different setup, and comes out after radio and vent removal, as one piece..
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I didn't have the benefit of FCF's expertise when I did my heater matrix 5 years ago. I worked methodically through the procedure as set out in Haynes - give them their due, it got the job done. Afterwards, I decided 1 or 2 things may not need to have been removed - mine's an LX without aircon.
Worth taking pictures to show routes of the wiring and connectors, in vicinity of panel and steering column.
Worthwhile checking/replacing panel bulbs on re-assembly.
I struggled a bit to disconnect the hoses from matrix at bulkhead (engine cold). Didn't know one should run engine to warm everything up (is it really worth it?).
Yes, the fascia is heavy, and very useful having helper to manoevre it out and back again.
I unexpectedly found 3 No. 1" dia rubber washers after fascia removal, which I decided fitted on the 3 bolts fixing the fascia and the bulkhead (bolt heads in engine bay - yes, deep 10mm socket very useful)
Martin
Worth taking pictures to show routes of the wiring and connectors, in vicinity of panel and steering column.
Worthwhile checking/replacing panel bulbs on re-assembly.
I struggled a bit to disconnect the hoses from matrix at bulkhead (engine cold). Didn't know one should run engine to warm everything up (is it really worth it?).
Yes, the fascia is heavy, and very useful having helper to manoevre it out and back again.
I unexpectedly found 3 No. 1" dia rubber washers after fascia removal, which I decided fitted on the 3 bolts fixing the fascia and the bulkhead (bolt heads in engine bay - yes, deep 10mm socket very useful)
Martin
Martin
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S1 dashboards are easier to remove as they have the grab bar
The other reason for having the temperature up is the pressure in the system can help seperate the pipes, but I'd wear gloves so you don't get scalded.
The other reason for having the temperature up is the pressure in the system can help seperate the pipes, but I'd wear gloves so you don't get scalded.
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