
Here are pictures of cleaning up the brake and suspension, to refit a driveshaft. The guard was well-coroded, you see it after application of rust inhibitor. The outer cv joint was coroded too. In the picure some rust remains around the abs cog. I removed that too , and re inspected with light taps from a metal hammer. All parts were de-greased, wire brushed and chipped with a welders' chipping hammer, then brushed with inhibitor before wiping down again and then coating with red oxide. After a quick test drive, I did the driver side afterwards, but that was less greasy and I didn't remove the drive shafts or replace the balljoints.
The nearside lower strut balljoint had to be drilled out slowly at the local engineers. Tiplers' is an old family firm, but now retired, it still goes on run by its staff of 25 plus years, though still owned by the family. It cost me £40.00, adding to the expense. It's three times in life I've gone to a garage for drilling out. I appreciate the patient steady a hand and eye, and the workshop tools. It may have taken him up to an hour. I don't know. No way was it going to budge with a chisel, the metal rounded. Two lugs left and Tiplers tried the same , with the same results. I was never defeated by a balljoint myself before, including some tough ones.
Also took the time to degrease the engine under tray and corner bits, clean up the radiator lugs, degrease the engine where necessary, degrease the front wheels. The degreasing and de-rust work took the most time, and was unpleasant with paraffin and a mask even, but was worth it for the future.
The track rod ball joint I got as a replacement was too long! No room for adjustment. Had to return it and replace with a QH version, which was the right length as it turned out. I'm still waiting for some parts. The exhaust downpipe arrived yesterday.
My radiator isn't a common one I found out. Also expecting a wire ratchet crimping tool to arrive, as well as as a butane gas soldering iron.