Diagnostics: Xantia tailgate + reverse lights out?

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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Hi John, good to make your aquaintance too :D I've had a lot of help from this Forum so it's my pleasure to give some back. I can confirm the interior light lens pull off downwards though you might need a thin blade levering the top if you don't have finger nails to get in there.

As for crimps vs soldering, crimps are superior as long as you use a proper ratchet tool (as above) with the right dies for the crimps. Air Marine Products (AMP) make them for use in, you guessed it, planes and boats so they have to be good. In fact, they're the best. I attended a seminar on how to make the perfect terminations by them - basically you ensure you have the right sized crimp for the right sized wire, the right amount of insulation stripped without nicking or cutting any strands then ensure the front crimp firmly compresses onto all the strands and the rear crimp on the insulation, both without damage. Anything less is rejected.

Soldering takes away any flexibility the wire has at the join and makes it more prone to damage and there might be a caveat regarding the chemicals in the flux too.

Having said that, I tend to reach for the soldering iron automatically when it comes to wiring as the consumables are always available whereas crimps can get quite expensive. :oops:
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Perfectionist in me

Post by John Plum »

VertVega, you're a gent.
That is very neat. You'd guess, I know, that i had to consider stripping down the tailgate, or go your way. In my mind I told myself (and I'm not a shirker) that it may be WISER to go you're way. After all, they are vulnerable, and will always be so.
I then thought the BEST thing would be to put in an intermediate plugin section (slightly longer than I cut out) and push the extra length in a bit...with the risk that it wouldn't push back far enough. So I hesitated, and asked for experiences.
Also, I found nowhere here or net-wide of anyone stripping the tailgate, though it likely exists here. I was surprised.
From what you gathered, do'you reckon I could do that - meaning that there is room to push an extra two to three inches of slack back in? No, I don't think you could tell me about that, really. I could try, it gives me the benefit of just being able to plug in a new section if I have soldered connectors on.
My impression is that dismantling the tailgate is something to do at leisure in a workshop, and with a respray afterwards....and you're still cutting wires, anyway.
So, your way ea: is the BEST way I reckon, unless the suggested 'intermediate section' alternative could work.

My main problem with all this, is crimp on wires. I just don't rate them, even though I know they can be done well. I have always found them to be unreliable within a year (or two) - a weakness. I , like an autmotive snob :x , sneered at the rise of crimps, and stuck to me brass bullets, until I ran out of supplliers. :( Then I told myself the world is going wrong, like using orange silicon sealant on all gaskets and complaining British bikes leak oil, silcon all over the bathroom and kitchen instead of mastic or grout, pot noodles, metal fillings instead of gold; gluing in cast gold filling instead of tamping in gold leaf (practice of the ancient - and dentists just don't know that; it is superior to my mind and I have good reason; it forms a true skin with the enamel that is inert).
There I go again.....!

The crimps always weaken wires; aluminium oxidises badly, and come apart with strain. However, I shall go with the flow, and for all I know the alloy has improved. Electrical tape is what helps to keep it all steady.
I didn't need to write any of that! Hope you approve though. :?
John Plum
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oops

Post by John Plum »

:oops: Mike, I' aplogise, I hadn't got your post before I posted my last one. The information about crimps is great and much appreciated: it wasn't meant to contradict you.

Well, I gave you my true thought in all honesty, and your information seems to super-cede my knowledge: I stuck my neck out, risking embarrassment, but It' s provoked my learning. I do need to get this crimping right. The views I put forward were based on limited experience and testing. Though a friend who worked with electronic cables in one of those virtual reality shooting places, used them, and showed me his crimper, which cost a lot of money, I seem to think about £70.00 12 years ago. May be they were the AirMArine ones. I'll check them out.

I hope one day I can give something back..I try to make my posts as a learner useful for others, by reading previous posts first, and being clear, anyway. If I could get rss on the forum posts, I would do it easier that way (I wonder if phpbb3 can offer that?) .

Thanks very much.
John Plum
Xantia II Estate,1999, 2.0 HDI LX, 17000 miles, manual
MikeT
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Re: oops

Post by MikeT »

John Plum wrote::oops: Mike, I' aplogise
No need John. Crimps don't have to made from ali :wink: And yes, the tools did cost as much as the car though you can get some very good copies nowadays for about £8.
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Post by citronut »

dont worry about errors you may or may not make John we are only ALLIAN'S sorry human, i just forgot as us hydraulic citroen ownwers do have the green stuff pumpping through our vains dont we

regards malcolm
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Post by VertVega »

I had similar price shock experience upon hearing over 100 EUR for an Abiko tool :shock:
I told them that I'm just a "Saturday mechanic" I don't need such a "professional tool" :lol: (Finally I found one for 20).

Try shop.ebay.co.uk --> search for "wire tool". I got: 1,050 results found for wire tool :)
- crimps crimping pliers aircraft tools 9" ratchet wire n £7.49 +£2.99 13h 47m
- crimps crimping pliers aircraft tools 9" ratchets wire £4.99 +£6.65 4d 7h 18m

Also this tool is very handy, buy one if you don't have it yet :)
- Portable Hand Tool Copper Cutting Wire Stripper Pliers (From Hong Kong) £5.21 Free 39m

PS: I will be offline. Next time earliest on Sunday 8)
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VertVega
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Post by VertVega »

Before I forget, tailgate trim removal is much more easier than it sounds :!: You need torx T20 (:idea: get a proper full set of T15-T40).

- start by removing rectangular covers behind tailgate lights. Plastic screw 90 deg to either side.
- now you can see 2 "hidden" torx screws now, 1 behind each cover.
- unplug wire connectors (5 altogether)
- unplug 2 screws of the handle
- unplug torx screws along side the trim( about 8 of them)
:arrow: trim is off :)

Horizontal and "vertical" plastic covers must also be removed if you want to reach the wire bundle.

That's all for now, very briefly. I'm off now :)
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Post by John Plum »

Most grateful, couldn't have ask for more -I'm set up for it, and it will make the job a pleasure. Have a nice time away.
John Plum
Xantia II Estate,1999, 2.0 HDI LX, 17000 miles, manual
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John Plum
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Post by John Plum »

i just forgot as us hydraulic citroen ownwers do have the green stuff pumpping through our vains dont we
Are you sure? Mines a dirty brownish colour.
John Plum
Xantia II Estate,1999, 2.0 HDI LX, 17000 miles, manual
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