Newbie does a Xantia 1.9TD Head Swap - ho ho ho!

Tell us your ongoing tales and experiences with your French car here. Post pictures of your car here as well.

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CitroJim
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Post by CitroJim »

Hi Mike, Just caught up with your (or SWMBO's) misfuel :twisted:

Following on Andrew's comments on his experiences of mixing a bit of petrol, the pump could suffer suffer a little as the pump will have run for a time with a lack of lubrication. Good job it was a Bosch and not a Lucas. If a Lucas runs sans lube it really throws its toys and seizes up its distributor head, wrecking it beyond repair. The Bosch is an inferior pump to the Lucas in many ways but it is one tough old beast. :twisted:

The K light came on because the pump lost control of the timing.

In the case of a serious lack of lubrication in the pump, two areas can wear; the timing actuator piston (which is PTFE coated) and the HP pumping element. Wear in either will cause a bit of hard start but wear in the latter will show up mainly as a real reluctance to restart when hot. Wear in the former tends to cause the K light to come on. So, in short, if you're starting OK from cold (ignore a puff of blue smoke, that's normal), the K light is always off and hot starts are no problem then you're OK.

In your case Andrew, I reckon your starting issues are not so much as the pump as some secondary damage that running on petrol may have caused. Damage to the combustion chambers and/or valves or rings through detonation (severe pinking) in a similar way that ether (easystart) will cause damage. It's just a theory of mine and I have no substantiating evidence whatsoever but your symptoms point to less than perfect compression and petrol-induced detonation could cause this.

Deanxm
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Post by Deanxm »

its when you start getting an itchy lexia this hobby gets expensive, or so ive heard :D

D

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MikeM
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Post by MikeM »

Thanks Jim,

I'll monitor for those symptoms and with a bit of luck avoid any pump work.

MikeM

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CitroJim
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Post by CitroJim »

Deanxm wrote:its when you start getting an itchy lexia this hobby gets expensive, or so ive heard :D
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

andmcit
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Post by andmcit »

CitroJim wrote:In your case Andrew, I reckon your starting issues are not so much as the
pump as some secondary damage that running on petrol may have caused.
Damage to the combustion chambers and/or valves or rings through
detonation (severe pinking) in a similar way that ether (easystart) will cause
damage. It's just a theory of mine and I have no substantiating evidence
whatsoever but your symptoms point to less than perfect compression
and petrol-induced detonation could cause this.
With the risk of hijacking Mike's thread here, I would say the car behaves well
in terms of performance and when I'm not lead footed with it economy though
the one thing it doesn't like is tarting cold - warm is instant and it's clear of
smog but if I don't allow it at least two or three glow plug cycles it smokes
very noticeably. I wonder even if the timer isn't long enough but haven't tried
running it longer waiting before triggering the starter as I always thought the
power supply dropped off when the light of the timer stopped.

Andrew

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

MikeM wrote:Cheers Dean,

Ever curious, I've just mixed some unleaded and diesel together in a sealed glass container to see how well it separates. Initially, no separation, but will check later tonight and again in the morning.

MikeM
I'd imagine that it has more to do with miscibility than density or viscosity.
Sloshing around in a fuel tank in a moving vehicle should blend it fairly thoroughly.

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MikeM
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Post by MikeM »

myglaren wrote:I'd imagine that it has more to do with miscibility than density or viscosity.
Indeed, miscibility is the main factor, I was just using densities as a guide in the absence of any miscibility data (i.e. near identical values would not promote separation)

While all the 'clever-clogs' are about (TiC). Does anyone have valve timing data for the XUD. I'm trying to work out if the cam being one tooth off (retarded relative to crank) would cause piston/valve contact.

MikeM

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CitroJim
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Post by CitroJim »

andmcit wrote:I always thought the power supply dropped off when the light of the timer stopped.
No, they carry on burning after the amber light goes out for a fair few seconds more Andrew. Open the bonnet, watch the orange light and then time from it going out to a big clang from the timer relay. The big clang is when power is finally cut. On starting, the glowplugs will come back on again (post heat) and continue burning until either the coolant reaches 60 degrees or you open the throttle more than a third.

Worth checking your glowplug timer is working properly and that you're not using NGK glowplugs.

Mike, I believe (but don't quote me) that one tooth out either way and you'll be OK, just.

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MikeM
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Post by MikeM »

CitroJim wrote:Mike, I believe (but don't quote me) that one tooth out either way and you'll be OK, just.
Jim,

hmmmmm, I was afraid of that. Y'see when I fitted the new timing belt, although the belt was taught from crank to fuel pump, the next stage to cam was quite loose. Not enough to get another tooth out of it but poss a good half. Timing holes/bolts were still in alignment so went with it and turning engine by hand showed no clash.

Guess, now everything's running I'll have to remove the covers and check the timing again.

Oh well. Break out the spanners again :roll:

MikeM