I got caught out about those sleeves and had to ask here (think it's mentioned in my blog) but it's a typical BoL red herring as mine were still attached to the head. If they were loose and came out easily, then they will need renewing but experienced XUD mechanics have assured me they never do.
Regards your gasket thickness, I'm not sure if you've measured your protrusion but it might be worth doing if the head you're getting is unknown to you. In my case, I had the head skimmed so took the safer option of using the thickest available. As I intend to tune the engine soon, it might work in my favour. It certainly has reduced the power output AFAICT, it's just as quick if not quicker than my mildly tuned MK1.
Newbie does a Xantia 1.9TD Head Swap - ho ho ho!
Moderators: RichardW, myglaren
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
Another day done
Jim, MikeT,
On checking closer, yep the sleeves were a) still in the old head, and b) already fitted to the new head - so chalk up one more unneccessary heart murmor to BoL
With new gaskets (individual ones) in hand I got the exhaust manifold fitted today using new copper nuts - I only worked out why copper when I couldn't screw them fully onto a matching bolt and I thought I'd got the wrong thread. Then it dawned on me, the top of the nut is designed to not fit the thread, so forcing it onto the stud makes it act as a self locking nut - obviously Nyloks can't be used because of the heat. Clever stuff
Then I tried to refit the oil feed pipe to the turbo and block but couldn't get the right angle onto the t/c for the thread to engage. Noticed that when I removed it from the t/c it took it's counterpart clean out of the t/c. I had to completely remove the pipe lock the union in a vice and separate the two with a lot of BFaI. After that, and working out how to feed the pipe back through the maze that is the manifold, t/c and downpipe, the pipe wnet back on relatively easy. Cross off one more job.
Now I can remove the trolley jack that's supporting the exhaust and bits and use it to lift the engine off the axle stands high enough to get the last engine mount bracket bolt fitted - Job done.
Installed the injectors. Fire washer first dome side up (tks guys). [MikeM tip - slide washer onto non-magnetic screwdriver, put tip of screwdriver in injector hole centre and let washer slide into place perfectly centered. Also prevents dropping washer behind fuel pump
]
Will torque the injectors later (somehow) - but for now they're stopping any dust from entering.
Have left glow plugs out so that engine will turn easier without compression and it looks like I can get passed the fuel pump to No 1 without too much trouble.
Replaced thermostat (original - no temperature marked) with 83deg jobby hopefully helping to avoid overheating probs in future.
Looking for small bits to do, I refitted the coolant pipe to the rear of the new head - ahhh, the satisfaction
I'm going to leave fitting the new timing belt and it's covers as late as poss to give myself as much access as I can get to the t/c air pipe connectors - could fit the belt but without the covers the risk of contamination is too great.
So I'm stuck wating for the replacement (read longer) head bolts to arrive hopefully tomorrow before I can crack on.
Guess it's time to stop whining and start wining 8)
MikeM
p.s. Although I've been blogging this to use as a sounding board for myself, I hope it will serve as a guide for others (or possibly a warning ). Additionally, the tech help and moral support from other members is invaluable and very much appreciated. Cheers guys.
On checking closer, yep the sleeves were a) still in the old head, and b) already fitted to the new head - so chalk up one more unneccessary heart murmor to BoL
With new gaskets (individual ones) in hand I got the exhaust manifold fitted today using new copper nuts - I only worked out why copper when I couldn't screw them fully onto a matching bolt and I thought I'd got the wrong thread. Then it dawned on me, the top of the nut is designed to not fit the thread, so forcing it onto the stud makes it act as a self locking nut - obviously Nyloks can't be used because of the heat. Clever stuff
Then I tried to refit the oil feed pipe to the turbo and block but couldn't get the right angle onto the t/c for the thread to engage. Noticed that when I removed it from the t/c it took it's counterpart clean out of the t/c. I had to completely remove the pipe lock the union in a vice and separate the two with a lot of BFaI. After that, and working out how to feed the pipe back through the maze that is the manifold, t/c and downpipe, the pipe wnet back on relatively easy. Cross off one more job.
Now I can remove the trolley jack that's supporting the exhaust and bits and use it to lift the engine off the axle stands high enough to get the last engine mount bracket bolt fitted - Job done.
Installed the injectors. Fire washer first dome side up (tks guys). [MikeM tip - slide washer onto non-magnetic screwdriver, put tip of screwdriver in injector hole centre and let washer slide into place perfectly centered. Also prevents dropping washer behind fuel pump
]Will torque the injectors later (somehow) - but for now they're stopping any dust from entering.
Have left glow plugs out so that engine will turn easier without compression and it looks like I can get passed the fuel pump to No 1 without too much trouble.
Replaced thermostat (original - no temperature marked) with 83deg jobby hopefully helping to avoid overheating probs in future.
Looking for small bits to do, I refitted the coolant pipe to the rear of the new head - ahhh, the satisfaction
I'm going to leave fitting the new timing belt and it's covers as late as poss to give myself as much access as I can get to the t/c air pipe connectors - could fit the belt but without the covers the risk of contamination is too great.
So I'm stuck wating for the replacement (read longer) head bolts to arrive hopefully tomorrow before I can crack on.
Guess it's time to stop whining and start wining 8)
MikeM
p.s. Although I've been blogging this to use as a sounding board for myself, I hope it will serve as a guide for others (or possibly a warning
). Additionally, the tech help and moral support from other members is invaluable and very much appreciated. Cheers guys.-
CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 48435
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- x 3410
Excellent progress Mike, well done!
Yes, writing up this sort of thing in a blog is incredibly valuable as it really does help others and I reckon, makes the whole job seem a lot less frightening that reading about it in the blog or a "how to" guide.
Great tip for the firewashers
No.1 glowplug is not that bad to get to really. Blutak is your friend and if you temporarily wire the glowplug to a length of wire, it's easily retrieved if it does make a bid for freedom behind the pump. A cranked 12mm ring spanner I find is essential for all the glowplugs on the XUD.
I reckon you'll be up and running tomorrow Mike
Yes, writing up this sort of thing in a blog is incredibly valuable as it really does help others and I reckon, makes the whole job seem a lot less frightening that reading about it in the blog or a "how to" guide.
Great tip for the firewashers
No.1 glowplug is not that bad to get to really. Blutak is your friend and if you temporarily wire the glowplug to a length of wire, it's easily retrieved if it does make a bid for freedom behind the pump. A cranked 12mm ring spanner I find is essential for all the glowplugs on the XUD.
I reckon you'll be up and running tomorrow Mike
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
Late start
Well I got a late start today as I had to wait until 12 for the new head bolts to arrive - but given the postal strikes I guess I should count myself lucky.
Removed and replaced interim head bolts one by one and just nipped them off to hold the head firm - but then I hit a snag - my torque wrench fell apart
Putting it back together was easy but it then needed to be calibrated.
Krypton Factor hat on, I weighed my car battery (34.5LBS), I promise there's method in this madness. Then I measured the wrench length from centre of drive to far end (17inches = 1.417feet) so I figured that if I suspended the battery at 90 degrees from the wrench it would be applying a torque of 34.5 * 1.417 ft/lbs (49 give or take). Now with the wrench set to 49ft/lbs, suspend the wrench horizontally from one of the wheel nuts and hang the battery off the other end. Then make small adjustments to the calibration nut until the slightest extra pressure applied makes the wrench 'click' - The chap cleaning out the pigs wondered what the heck I was doing. Oh I love a challenge 8)
Testing the wrench at various settings with a set of weighing scales verified it was now accurate - Don't ya just love it when the laws of physics work
Torquing down the head bolts at stage 2, it occurred to me that I'd need to go back and repeat the 1-10 sequence at 60nm as tightening down subsequent bolts would loosen previous ones, so kept repeating until all set equally at 60nm
Next problem - I don't own a torque angle gauge so I could buy one for around a tenner and a trip into Norwich or ...
... I could make one - using MS Word and a pair of scissors. Guess which one I chose
I gotta say that the final 220 degrees is seriously scary - I was fully expecting a shear at any point. By the time I'd finished I was sweating buckets. Not sure if from effort or fear.
Torqued injectors down - Nice. Used spanner and weighing scales again for No3 (one with sensor wire) to get correct torque.
Fuel pump to injector pipes refitted (loosely for now).
Thermostat housing fitted to head and coolant pipes reconnected.
Then started experimenting with the turbo air pipes and inlet manifold and decided it's not going to be easy anyway I can think of -- if anyone can suggest an optimum order of refitting these bits, I'll gladly supply a case of virtual beer
The way it looks is that the top rear timing cover won't go passed the turbo air pipe (seems odd) and so I'm planning to fit the timing belt next and get the covers on - might as well deal with the crank pully too.
Then I'm going to try the turbo outlet pipe (mine bolts on not clips) and then the inlet manifold followed by the turbo inlet pipe (which does use clips)
If I get that far tomorrow I'll be happy as the rest is all ancillary stuff.
At least...
... that's the 'plan'
MikeM
Removed and replaced interim head bolts one by one and just nipped them off to hold the head firm - but then I hit a snag - my torque wrench fell apart
Putting it back together was easy but it then needed to be calibrated.
Krypton Factor hat on, I weighed my car battery (34.5LBS), I promise there's method in this madness. Then I measured the wrench length from centre of drive to far end (17inches = 1.417feet) so I figured that if I suspended the battery at 90 degrees from the wrench it would be applying a torque of 34.5 * 1.417 ft/lbs (49 give or take). Now with the wrench set to 49ft/lbs, suspend the wrench horizontally from one of the wheel nuts and hang the battery off the other end. Then make small adjustments to the calibration nut until the slightest extra pressure applied makes the wrench 'click' - The chap cleaning out the pigs wondered what the heck I was doing. Oh I love a challenge 8)
Testing the wrench at various settings with a set of weighing scales verified it was now accurate - Don't ya just love it when the laws of physics work
Torquing down the head bolts at stage 2, it occurred to me that I'd need to go back and repeat the 1-10 sequence at 60nm as tightening down subsequent bolts would loosen previous ones, so kept repeating until all set equally at 60nm
Next problem - I don't own a torque angle gauge so I could buy one for around a tenner and a trip into Norwich or ...
... I could make one - using MS Word and a pair of scissors. Guess which one I chose
I gotta say that the final 220 degrees is seriously scary - I was fully expecting a shear at any point. By the time I'd finished I was sweating buckets. Not sure if from effort or fear.
Torqued injectors down - Nice. Used spanner and weighing scales again for No3 (one with sensor wire) to get correct torque.
Fuel pump to injector pipes refitted (loosely for now).
Thermostat housing fitted to head and coolant pipes reconnected.
Then started experimenting with the turbo air pipes and inlet manifold and decided it's not going to be easy anyway I can think of -- if anyone can suggest an optimum order of refitting these bits, I'll gladly supply a case of virtual beer
The way it looks is that the top rear timing cover won't go passed the turbo air pipe (seems odd) and so I'm planning to fit the timing belt next and get the covers on - might as well deal with the crank pully too.
Then I'm going to try the turbo outlet pipe (mine bolts on not clips) and then the inlet manifold followed by the turbo inlet pipe (which does use clips)
If I get that far tomorrow I'll be happy as the rest is all ancillary stuff.
At least...
... that's the 'plan'
MikeM
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
Nearly there
Well yesterday I made huge progress (or as the locals say - hooooj), much better than I'd expected.
The new timing belt went on without incident followed by the covers which weren't quite so straight forward. The front cover takes quite some jiggling to get in between the engine mount bracket and the pressure pump.
Decided to go with the inlet manifold next and sure enough the bolts I've used to replace the studs made life much easier.
Then I was a bit hasty. I was so concerned about whether I'd get the turbo air pipes passed the inlet manifold that I did those next and was prematurely relieved when they were secured with relative ease.
Problem was, I'd now restricted access to the front of the engine and being reluctant to remove the air pipes again, I struggled for the rest of the day squeezing passed it to get to the injector and pump unions, glow plugs, fitting leak off pipes etc etc... I would say I'll know better for next time but, if there is a next time
- I'll definately remove the engine from the car.
Well anyway. The EGR is reconnected minus it's vacuum pipe which seems to have disappeared (strange as I don't even remember removing it from the EGR valve
) but the rest of the vacuum system is reconnected.
All the air ducting is on with all the supporting brackets and braces and fully reconnected to the intercooler and air filter housing.
New fuel and air filters fitted.
Found another problem. The hose which connects the camshaft cover to the oil dipstick housing has split. Maybe this could be the source of oily residue over everything I'll get another today (yet another shopping trip ) and treat her to a steam clean at some point .
Remaining items:
Tighten turbo oil feed pipe to block union
Tighten turbo air inlet pipe jubilee clip
Tighten inlet manifold bolt 'B' - that'll be fun
Fit aux drive belt
Refit engine mount
Torque crank pulley
Refit accelerator cable
Change oil and filter
Fill coolant
Refit battery
Check for leftovers and pray I haven't botched something.
So I'm hoping (there you go - I gone and jinxed it now) that by the end of today she'll be chugging again - As I said, 'hoping'
MikeM
The new timing belt went on without incident followed by the covers which weren't quite so straight forward. The front cover takes quite some jiggling to get in between the engine mount bracket and the pressure pump.
Decided to go with the inlet manifold next and sure enough the bolts I've used to replace the studs made life much easier.
Then I was a bit hasty. I was so concerned about whether I'd get the turbo air pipes passed the inlet manifold that I did those next and was prematurely relieved when they were secured with relative ease.
Problem was, I'd now restricted access to the front of the engine and being reluctant to remove the air pipes again, I struggled for the rest of the day squeezing passed it to get to the injector and pump unions, glow plugs, fitting leak off pipes etc etc... I would say I'll know better for next time but, if there is a next time
- I'll definately remove the engine from the car.Well anyway. The EGR is reconnected minus it's vacuum pipe which seems to have disappeared (strange as I don't even remember removing it from the EGR valve
) but the rest of the vacuum system is reconnected.All the air ducting is on with all the supporting brackets and braces and fully reconnected to the intercooler and air filter housing.
New fuel and air filters fitted.
Found another problem. The hose which connects the camshaft cover to the oil dipstick housing has split. Maybe this could be the source of oily residue over everything
I'll get another today (yet another shopping trip ) and treat her to a steam clean at some point .Remaining items:
Tighten turbo oil feed pipe to block union
Tighten turbo air inlet pipe jubilee clip
Tighten inlet manifold bolt 'B' - that'll be fun
Fit aux drive belt
Refit engine mount
Torque crank pulley
Refit accelerator cable
Change oil and filter
Fill coolant
Refit battery
Check for leftovers and pray I haven't botched something.
So I'm hoping (there you go - I gone and jinxed it now) that by the end of today she'll be chugging again
- As I said, 'hoping'MikeM
-
davetherave
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 01 Apr 2009, 21:06
- x 1
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
All the work's done, but ...
Well today was going to be the day that my Xantia once again breathed fire but it was not to be 
I even took with me a list of the outstanding jobs so that I would not miss anything, and the list was dutifully completed
After fitting the battery and silencing the alarm, a quick crank revealed that the battery was just too tired - to be fair I have been using it over the last two weeks to power my work light and had to recharge it three times as a result. However, I thought that since it only came off charge yesterday morning it would be okay today, alas it wasn't to be.
On hitting the starter I got a 'whir-whir' and dim dash lights. Repeat, same again. At least it confirmed that there was no piston/valve contact - something that I'm quite paranoid about.
Upshot is I've got a sleepless night ahead waiting while it recharges again, knowing I can do nothing until it's full given the demands I'm about to put on it.
Have I got everything right? Tomorrow will tell ...
MikeM
I even took with me a list of the outstanding jobs so that I would not miss anything, and the list was dutifully completed
After fitting the battery and silencing the alarm, a quick crank revealed that the battery was just too tired - to be fair I have been using it over the last two weeks to power my work light and had to recharge it three times as a result. However, I thought that since it only came off charge yesterday morning it would be okay today, alas it wasn't to be.
On hitting the starter I got a 'whir-whir' and dim dash lights. Repeat, same again. At least it confirmed that there was no piston/valve contact - something that I'm quite paranoid about.
Upshot is I've got a sleepless night ahead waiting while it recharges again, knowing I can do nothing until it's full given the demands I'm about to put on it.
Have I got everything right? Tomorrow will tell ...
MikeM
-
CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 48435
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- x 3410
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
He thinks it's all over...It is now (I hope)
Hi Jim,
This can't be right ! There has to be something I've overlooked.
Truth is, I suspect that as soon as I relax and pat myself on the head for a job well done, something will rear it's ugly head.
But for now at least, she runs sweet, no (additional) oil leaks and best of all no smoke
I'll keep her runs local for a while then try a trip down to the inlaws in Essex.
Thanks to all for the moral support. As you said Jim, It's makes the job a lot less frightening, and I gotta say that doing this job has boosted my confidence in my abilities no end
Hope I can be of as much help to others as y'all have been to me.
Thanks again guys
MikeM
Well I guess I'm never satisfied. After bleeding the injector pipes using my (pat. pending) method of 'crank n squeeze', she did indeed roar into life - and what's more I can't find anything wrongCitroJim wrote:All the best for today. I'm sure she'll roar into life no worries at all
This can't be right ! There has to be something I've overlooked.
Truth is, I suspect that as soon as I relax and pat myself on the head for a job well done, something will rear it's ugly head.
But for now at least, she runs sweet, no (additional) oil leaks and best of all no smoke
I'll keep her runs local for a while then try a trip down to the inlaws in Essex.
Thanks to all for the moral support. As you said Jim, It's makes the job a lot less frightening, and I gotta say that doing this job has boosted my confidence in my abilities no end
Hope I can be of as much help to others as y'all have been to me.
Thanks again guys
MikeM
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
I knew it. I knew it. I flaming knew it ...
Well know sooner had I blogged my success and jumped in the bath when I got a knock at the door. It was a neighbour telling me that he'd just traced a line of oil for about 500m even to the point of it following my car back into my drive 
Hoping it might just be from the oil filter, I stuck her up on ramps and started the engine. Oil flowed immediately but no from the filter - it was coming down from the turbo area.
So, to get a better look the inlet manifold had to come off again - time to really test my theory with the bolts. I had the inlet manifold off in under 15 minutes - oh boy it was easy(er)
With the EGR refitted to block the exhaust and the engine mount refitted, I started her up and sure enough, oil flowed from the centre of the turbo oil feed pipe top union.
Removing the pipe (again) once again took the insert from the turbo with it. Separating the two revealed the problem. The rubber 'O' ring inside had been cut in two. I'd not noticed there was one before because of the poor light in my working area, but in daylight ...
I'm starting to wonder if someone has gone before me here. Too many things are just not factory spec under here and maybe this union was leaking before and was just 'cranked' tighter 'king kong' style to stop it. That would explain the union taking the t/c insert out with it and also the evidence of a former oil leak. Only a steam clean and time will tell.
So I'm off to Norwich again tomorrow to get a new pair of these (might as well replace the one at the other end) and with a bit of luck all will be sorted by sunset (I may even get to watch X factor )
MikeM
Hoping it might just be from the oil filter, I stuck her up on ramps and started the engine. Oil flowed immediately but no from the filter - it was coming down from the turbo area.
So, to get a better look the inlet manifold had to come off again - time to really test my theory with the bolts. I had the inlet manifold off in under 15 minutes - oh boy it was easy(er)
With the EGR refitted to block the exhaust and the engine mount refitted, I started her up and sure enough, oil flowed from the centre of the turbo oil feed pipe top union.
Removing the pipe (again) once again took the insert from the turbo with it. Separating the two revealed the problem. The rubber 'O' ring inside had been cut in two. I'd not noticed there was one before because of the poor light in my working area, but in daylight ...
I'm starting to wonder if someone has gone before me here. Too many things are just not factory spec under here and maybe this union was leaking before and was just 'cranked' tighter 'king kong' style to stop it. That would explain the union taking the t/c insert out with it and also the evidence of a former oil leak. Only a steam clean and time will tell.
So I'm off to Norwich again tomorrow to get a new pair of these (might as well replace the one at the other end) and with a bit of luck all will be sorted by sunset (I may even get to watch X factor
)MikeM
-
CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 48435
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- x 3410
Firstly, excellent work Mike Well done is all I can say and anyone who can have an inlet manifold off in 15 minutes has my highest and most humble respect
Sorry to hear of the small set-back but John (Jgra1) and I know all about that turbo pipe
Our problem was that we'd transferred the turbo from one engine to another. The original had a Garrett and the new was a KKK (or vikky verky). What we did not realise was the oil feed pipes are different between turbo makes Use the wrong one and the car does a fair impression of the Torrey Canyon*
My overall still have the oil stains from lying under the car swapping the pipe with oil pouring out. It's just possible to swap the pipe with the inlet manifold in-situ but it's easier to whip the manifold off, that's for sure!
* An oil tanker that sank in 1967 off the Scilly Isles and caused an environmental disaster.
Well done is all I can say and anyone who can have an inlet manifold off in 15 minutes has my highest and most humble respect Sorry to hear of the small set-back but John (Jgra1) and I know all about that turbo pipe
Our problem was that we'd transferred the turbo from one engine to another. The original had a Garrett and the new was a KKK (or vikky verky). What we did not realise was the oil feed pipes are different between turbo makes
Use the wrong one and the car does a fair impression of the Torrey Canyon*My overall still have the oil stains from lying under the car swapping the pipe with oil pouring out. It's just possible to swap the pipe with the inlet manifold in-situ but it's easier to whip the manifold off, that's for sure!
* An oil tanker that sank in 1967 off the Scilly Isles and caused an environmental disaster.
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
Dare I declare the job done - again
Hiya Jim,
That was all well and indeed the oil leak has been fixed but ...
Reconnecting the EGR to the inlet manifold in just the right position proved tricky and I ended up dropping one of the screws that secures the EGR to the exhaust while putting everything back together - didn't come out the bottom and 45 minutes searching proved fruitless - guess the car's eaten it! Then while using a socket to make screwing the other one in easier, I dropped the socket. It too failed to emerge from below - another 20 minutes lost recovering that one.
I am getting better at removing and reffiting those turbo air pipes though. I now put the turbo inlet pipe on, then the inlet manifold and finally the turbo outlet pipe, and with the engine rolled forward courtesy of the right engine mount I can easily (fairly) get to the two bolts securing it to the turbo. Even bolt 'B' has stopped hiding.
Ran her while I cleared up my tools and cleaned up, checked for oil leaks
none found so off for a jolly to check performance - all seems great.
at last...
More I think about it the more I'm sure all the oil that was underneath before I started was due to the oil feed pipe - I just made things worse. So, I'm gonna start looking for somewhere to steam clean asap.
MikeM
Well it certainly took longer to put it back on. To make sure that the oil feed pipe union wasn't leaking I decided to run the car without the inlet manifold and that meant separating the manifold from the EGR valve and refitting the EGR valve to block the gaping hole in the exhaust.anyone who can have an inlet manifold off in 15 minutes ...
That was all well and indeed the oil leak has been fixed but ...
Reconnecting the EGR to the inlet manifold in just the right position proved tricky and I ended up dropping one of the screws that secures the EGR to the exhaust while putting everything back together - didn't come out the bottom and 45 minutes searching proved fruitless - guess the car's eaten it! Then while using a socket to make screwing the other one in easier, I dropped the socket. It too failed to emerge from below - another 20 minutes lost recovering that one.
I am getting better at removing and reffiting those turbo air pipes though. I now put the turbo inlet pipe on, then the inlet manifold and finally the turbo outlet pipe, and with the engine rolled forward courtesy of the right engine mount I can easily (fairly) get to the two bolts securing it to the turbo. Even bolt 'B' has stopped hiding.
Ran her while I cleared up my tools and cleaned up, checked for oil leaks
none found so off for a jolly to check performance - all seems great.at last...
More I think about it the more I'm sure all the oil that was underneath before I started was due to the oil feed pipe - I just made things worse. So, I'm gonna start looking for somewhere to steam clean asap.
MikeM
-
MikeM
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 04 Sep 2009, 09:53
Blue smoke on startup ???
Can anyone explain this for me please
I started the engine this morning, and there was still a 'waft' of blue(ish) smoke from the exhaust. It's nowhere near as bad as before all the work and it cleared after a few seconds but I can't understand where it's coming from.
After all, new head, new glow plugs and refurbed injectors - I'm puzzled
Any thoughts please
MikeM
I started the engine this morning, and there was still a 'waft' of blue(ish) smoke from the exhaust. It's nowhere near as bad as before all the work and it cleared after a few seconds but I can't understand where it's coming from.
After all, new head, new glow plugs and refurbed injectors - I'm puzzled
Any thoughts please
MikeM