c5 radius arms
Moderator: RichardW
-
french fancy
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 18 Aug 2009, 18:09
- Location:
- My Cars:
c5 radius arms
hello i am new to the site just need to know if anyone has had trouble removing the pins which hold the rear hydraulic ram piston rod to the raduis arm tried wd40 and some heat but wont move dont want to break the pin off inside the arm reason for removing the arm is the bearing has gone citroen c5 2002 20hdi had two years no problems till now many thanks all
Hello French Fancy, and Welcome to the site 
I'm relatively new to the forum, but having recently done searches on the forum prior to doing the radius arm on my Xantia, the answer to your question is YES, some members have had difficulty getting the pin out.
Think I'm right in that the pin arrangement is same on BX and Xantia, so presumably carried over to the C5. I had no trouble with the pin on my 14 yr old car, but had given it a few doses of Plus Gas over the previous week or two. I was able to drive the pin out, using a 2.5 mm drift, from the exterior of the vehicle. Main problem was finding the hole under the rust!
I have a new pin in front of me - measures about 2.5mm thick, so the hole will be a touch bigger. I'd be careful applying heat in case u damage the rubber gaitor. If you can get a drift on to it, to get it moving, then I think that's the way to go. Depends to an extent on which way the pin's been fitted.
You should get lots of other comments in due course
Let us know how you get on. Good luck
Martin
I'm relatively new to the forum, but having recently done searches on the forum prior to doing the radius arm on my Xantia, the answer to your question is YES, some members have had difficulty getting the pin out.
Think I'm right in that the pin arrangement is same on BX and Xantia, so presumably carried over to the C5. I had no trouble with the pin on my 14 yr old car, but had given it a few doses of Plus Gas over the previous week or two. I was able to drive the pin out, using a 2.5 mm drift, from the exterior of the vehicle. Main problem was finding the hole under the rust!
I have a new pin in front of me - measures about 2.5mm thick, so the hole will be a touch bigger. I'd be careful applying heat in case u damage the rubber gaitor. If you can get a drift on to it, to get it moving, then I think that's the way to go. Depends to an extent on which way the pin's been fitted.
You should get lots of other comments in due course
Let us know how you get on. Good luck
Martin
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
)
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
)-
french fancy
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 18 Aug 2009, 18:09
- Location:
- My Cars:
Glad you've got the pin out. May be worth searching the Citroen part of the Forum to see what alse has been said about radius arms, though much of it will be dealing with Xantias - may be a bit on C5.
I found that a 3/4" dia pipe about 15-18" long, cut nicely square at the end, gave enough purchase on the lip of the outer tracks of the bearings to slowly drive them out, working round & round their circumference.
Having driven the new outer tracks into place (not forgetting the plastic tube in between), I found the best way to draw the remaining items into place was using a length of 1/2" dia studding which I had to hand, plus a variety of 1/2" drive sockets to engage against the inner parts of the races/tracks, spacers, & the arm itself etc. Don't forget the "shim" which for my vehicle was 25-26 thou, between the spacer & brg on the outermost arm bearing.
Biggest problem I had was when refitting the piston rod, because the rubber gaitor had come off the rod's knuckle end - a right B... Ended up removing the sphere and cylinder from the car to make sure I didn't damage the gaitor whilst trying to pull it into position.
Good luck - experts on the forum reckon this only takes them a long day, but took me much longer. Rushing jobs risks more mistakes.
Martin
I found that a 3/4" dia pipe about 15-18" long, cut nicely square at the end, gave enough purchase on the lip of the outer tracks of the bearings to slowly drive them out, working round & round their circumference.
Having driven the new outer tracks into place (not forgetting the plastic tube in between), I found the best way to draw the remaining items into place was using a length of 1/2" dia studding which I had to hand, plus a variety of 1/2" drive sockets to engage against the inner parts of the races/tracks, spacers, & the arm itself etc. Don't forget the "shim" which for my vehicle was 25-26 thou, between the spacer & brg on the outermost arm bearing.
Biggest problem I had was when refitting the piston rod, because the rubber gaitor had come off the rod's knuckle end - a right B... Ended up removing the sphere and cylinder from the car to make sure I didn't damage the gaitor whilst trying to pull it into position.
Good luck - experts on the forum reckon this only takes them a long day, but took me much longer. Rushing jobs risks more mistakes.
Martin
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
)