Any Lucas Epic experts out there (Xantia 2.1 TD)??

Post by **myglaren** » 19 Jul 2009, 22:29

I'd be changing the diesel filter a lot more frequently that 2 years. Anually at least.

Jonesy · Post by **Jonesy** » 21 Jul 2009, 19:59

Well how strange is that then, replaced the fuel filter and the leak-offs and the car has not missed a beat in over 110 miles! It would not have done that mileage before without a hiccup.
Anyway massive thanks especially to Jim who suggested leak-offs and filter.
Hopefully that's all it was and fixed for just 8 quid! Will have to keep my fingers crossed.
Don't know if it's my imagination but seems to run a bit better now also, feels a bit sharper and revs more freely.

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 21 Jul 2009, 20:08

I'm not suprised it's running better if you've replaced a 2 year old fuel filter!

Every 6000 miles I replace the oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter.
Just as a side thought, talking about filters, it might be an idea to check the state of your pollen filter, which is under the carpet below the glove box.
They often get missed in services and can be really filthy!

Jonesy · Post by **Jonesy** » 21 Jul 2009, 21:09

Thanks for the reminder but I replace the pollen filter every 12 months or so and have done that recently. I also replace the air filter annually and oil and oil filter every 6-7,000 miles. I must admit that it was an oversight about the fuel filter which did about 20,000 miles!! Whoops.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 21 Jul 2009, 22:35

I change my oil and filter every 5,000 but usually find the fuel filters are good for 20,000 +, maybe it depends on the fuel.

Post by **CitroJim** » 22 Jul 2009, 07:29

Sorry, a bit late back into this thread. I have to confess here that I totally forgot to change the fuel filter on my own 2.1TD for some while

I experienced running problems slightly similar to yours. They magically went away after replacing the fuel filter, which incidentially looked very sad indeed.

Sorry, until the filter discussion came up, I'd completely forgotten my own experience

The inrush of air into the tank on removal of the cap is a bit of a red herring. Mine has always done that, off and on.

I hope your 2.1 continues not to miss a beat now Jonsey

hobblerian · Post by **hobblerian** » 22 Jul 2009, 15:53

Thanks guys, could of saved me a lot of painful investigation, have ordered myself a new fuel filter and fingers crossed it will cure my same symtoms. I've had my operation but my ankle is still far to painfull to be hunting out fuel leaks, think I can stretch to changing the filter though. Will let you know if it cures mine to.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 22 Jul 2009, 16:35

The CX diesels used to be particularly fussy about filters, after about 20k they would start to hesitate and not respond when you put you foot down, then in a very short space of time they would stop altogether, happened to me in the middle of Wick in the north of Scotland.

I don't think I've changed the one in the XM for about 75k.

Peter

hobblerian · Post by **hobblerian** » 28 Jul 2009, 16:16

Finally got round to fitting new fuel filter and bleed though. Car started first time and seems to be behaving itself after several starts. Thats the good news out the way.
Noticed that there was a drip coming from the bottom of the diesel pump, thought it was just spillage from where I had bleed things through. After a thorough clean up, re started the engine and the drip came back. Seems to be ouzing from the two halves of the pump, dripping about once very 30 seconds. Wondering if there is some shaft seal that has failed inside the pump. Just wondering if anybody else has come across a leaky Epic pump before or if any exploded drawing are available. That may give me a clue what may have failed. Thanks for any info or help.

Post by **CitroJim** » 28 Jul 2009, 16:57

I've not seem a leaky EPIC personally but can well understand how they would leak from where yours is as they're vertically split, unlike the Bosch and mechanical Lucas.

The seal is an O ring but I've not yet had a chance to dismantle a duff EPIC to see what is involved and I'd be very reluctant to dive in unless I'd first practiced on a duff pump.

I'm still waiting for such a pump to come my way so that I can learn their secrets.

The EPIC is rare, having only been used on PSA 2.1TD engines and some Tranist vans. Because of this, the specialists change a small fortune to overhaul them.

hobblerian · Post by **hobblerian** » 28 Jul 2009, 19:47

I've been hunting with google and i've seen prices mentioned of £850-£1000 for a complete recondition of the pump and seals. The popular theory seems to be an incompatibilty with the seals Lucas used and the ULS diesel. This could turn out to be an expensive 20p o-ring lol!

dieseldoggy · Post by **dieseldoggy** » 28 Jul 2009, 19:54

hobblerian wrote:I've been hunting with google and i've seen prices mentioned of £850-£1000 for a complete recondition of the pump and seals. The popular theory seems to be an incompatibilty with the seals Lucas used and the ULS diesel. This could turn out to be an expensive 20p o-ring lol!

thats the reason i use a drop of 2 stroke oil in my car to add abit of lube to it.heard about that problem with uls etc while ago.

hobblerian · Post by **hobblerian** » 26 Aug 2009, 22:53

Finally got round to getting my seal kit and worked up the courage to tackle my leaking pump. It was leaking from the centre join, and after studying the various drawings and texts you were all kind enough to provide me with I decided that I could whip out the pump and pop a new seal seal in and save my self £600+. It went quite smoothly and my guess was correct the pump did split into two as expected, popped new seal in (had to re-align the two pump veins as they moved slightly) and bolted all back up again and refitted on to motor. Bleed fuel through and cranked her and it fired about the third go. Ticked over nicely, stopped and started again fine. Decided to let it warm up a bit, and as it did the revs dropped back slightly and it just started hunting a bit. Am I correct in thinking that the timing is probably just a fraction out? I did mark the pump first before removing it but only with marker pen (5 times) but the lines got a bit blurred with the diesel and handling so it could be a fraction out. Had enough for today so gonna slacken bolts off tomorrow and see how it runs after moving a fraction. Couple of piccys of pump out and inside of it

-

Post by **CitroJim** » 27 Aug 2009, 09:22

Well done hobblerian

Very good work indeed! I pay you my greatest respects. I can't wait to open one up myself!

With regard to the static timing, there is a procedure that must be carried out whenever the pup is removed/replaced. It involves the hexagonal plug on the side of the pump. I have the procedure documented at home and as soon as I,m there, I'll dig it out for you.

Did you expose the ESOS valves during the strip?

Post by **Peter.N.** » 27 Aug 2009, 10:27

Pup

The mind boggles.