C5 Suspension Supports

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

Pleased to hear that it ir now resolved favourably.
A decent garage is invaluable, so many are indifferent or downright rubbish, as your experiences show.

I was talking to my neighbour yesterday and the service you were quoted £350 for, she paid £100 - for her BMW 325! Unheard of!
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Post by boristhespie »

Both Dealers in the area quoted this price. French Vehicle Services quoted £120 Too late. I got the bits. Hoping this may resolve the lag at 2500revs.
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Post by boristhespie »

So I changed the oil, diesel filter, oil, air and pollen filters and went on my trip, just back last night. Nice holiday for those who ask (WARNING~ Never pay to see Charlie Winston. Poored singer I have EVER heard and I have seen them all!!! All style and nae substance). Anyway for oil changed finally used the recommeneded Total 9000. Cheap in France.

How do I get rid of the service nag on the car dash?

Also the engine lag was horrendous on way back.

The car dies if on a hill and it dips just below 2500 revs on the dial. It had me falling to 45 miles per hor on the motorway will lorries passing me, so changing filters made no difference.

2500 revs seems particularly important. Sometimes I may be moving and it feels like the engine gives up. Other times it hits 3000 reves and I am pushed back in my chair literally as the car takes off.

I can hardly overtake, needing a huge run up to do it and it is very hairy knowing the car cant respond.

Someone, not a mechanic but someone who had worked with cars told me the "injectors made need to be moved a bit (forward)".

Could this be the case. I would lve some advice on this releatively new problem (Couple of months) What could it be.
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Post by Xaccers »

The "injectors may need to be moved forward a bit" probably means advance the injector timing.
However on the Hdi that's all controlled by the ECU rather than pump position.
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Post by Paul-R »

Boris

You're right about the price of oil in France - that's why I've been buying my oil there for the last goodness knows how many years!

To reset the service indicator:
1) Ignition off and press the trip mileage button
2) Keeping the button pressed turn the ignition on but don't start the engine
3) The trip display will then count down to zero
4) When at the zero let go of the button and switch the ignition off - the service indicator is now reset (12,500 miles unles someone has used a Lexia to chnge the interval to the long-life oil service interval)

If you let go of the button before the display reaches zero then the reset fails but just start the process again.
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Post by boristhespie »

any ideas as to what may be causing the problem. The car has done 116k now. Could it just be old age?
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Post by myglaren »

boristhespie wrote:any ideas as to what may be causing the problem. The car has done 116k now. Could it just be old age?
No. I have no such problems with mine and it has done more miles (not many more, but still.)

From what others have said I would be looking to have a diagnostic run as it seems to have gone into a failsafe mode (not the limp home mode) that only gives a very basic performance. This is due to the ECU acquiring some fault codes and limiting the fueling/injector timing.

You might get away with doing the battery disconnect procedure to clear the codes but:
1) it doesn't always work and
2) you really need to know the reason for the fault codes.

I'd have thought that it would have kicked something up onto the central display.
Is the engine management indicator lit?
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Post by boristhespie »

The engine management light like others only come on when I turn on the key then then they are straight off. Nothing is indicated when the car starts.

How much is a usual hook up to the computer are a dealer?
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Post by myglaren »

boristhespie wrote:The engine management light like others only come on when I turn on the key then then they are straight off. Nothing is indicated when the car starts.

How much is a usual hook up to the computer are a dealer?
At the dealers in your vicinity, probably a grand going by their prior pricing structure.

It would be worth consulting the ones who did the rear suspension bearings as they appear to be more sensible, IF they have the diagnostic equipment available.

Have a look at the distribution of Lexia's owned by forum members and see if there is one near you that will read the codes for you - you will get a much better price there.

I believe the average price for a diagnostic session is around £45~£65+VAT. Not all supply a detailed print out as they expect you to book the car in with them for remedial work.
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Just so I know

Post by boristhespie »

Just so I know, How does the battery disconnect work. Just disconnect and reconnect or is their a process?
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Post by Paul-R »

Copied from another post.
Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off.
Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition.
Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds.
Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.).
Switch on the side lights through the driver's window.
Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality.
Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds.
Remove key open & close door test central locking system.
Start the engine and correct your clock and radio settings.
Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items
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Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.

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Post by boristhespie »

Had a topic for this before. But here goes.

The car seems better cold. (But that may be just an impression).

The car is 110bhp Diesel C5 Hatch. LX I think. 117,000 now.

It reaches speed steadily there is no excelleration when peddle is pushed. It requires a run up. Up to 2 weeks ago it used to fly when hitting 3000 so much so it pushed you back in your chair. It doesn't do this now really.

The car hits a flat spot (engine sometimes seems to pull back) when at speed if it dips just below the 2500 rev line. Then if it goes I know that it will be 40mph by the end of a long, not steep but steady hill.

No lights on the dash.

Had a look yesterday. Doesn't seem to be any problem from injectors (oil mist when running, have used injector cleaning liquid also).

However ther was oil in the little recesses on the engine block (I think thats what that is but this could be from when the engine oil was changed) beside where the injectors are.

And there's a little rubber strip hanging which may be the excess of a seal between the main block and the top (If that is where it splits).

Have cleaned the oil out and will report if there is any new oil appearing which may indicate a leak but the injectors look dry and not covered in any oil anywhere.

What you descibe though Maygaren is along the lines of what I am getting and I Know you have been helping me which I appreciat.

I did get the sequence for the battery disconnet but as an amateur I am afraid to go through this as they say it can knacker otherthings up.

As for that garage, distance and work prevent me from getting there but I may try for a saturday.

As for undertray, I got someone to change oil for me in france and I guess they never put it back on properly. Oh and they lost all the clips for holding on the engine cover too. (Dont know if I could get them from anywhere) and that was a dealer.
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